trdcorolla
SILVER Star
How did it change the ride? Do these prevent your AHC going all the way down on low?
Builds The Story of Blue (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
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- build thread lx470
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- Thread starter
- #342
Actually it didn't have any effect on the ride (at least from what I can tell). And the truck still goes to L as before.
Unrelated: I also took off the washer bottle cover and now my wheel is no longer hitting anything! I have barely an inch of clearance at full low!
- Thread starter
- #343
This thread has been quite for a few days because I am just driving it a lot and enjoying it! My favorite upgrade to date is the LRA gas tank - 400 miles between the fills!
Last week, I started feeling the driver front wheel clunk softly when it goes over the bumps. So I jacked up by the LCA and checked for play by grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 oclock. Sure enough there is pretty noticeable play!
Then I tried the pry bar under the front wheel to see if there is any play in the lower ball joint (the UCA, Lower BJ and the outer tie rods are brand new in the last 3000 miles) - well I didn't find any there. Next, I looked at the steering rack closely while shaking the wheel and didn't notice any movement in the rack itself (it also has new poly bushings).
The steering fluid doesn't seem to ever go low, there are no leaks anywhere so I am hoping the rack had some life left in it.
So now, I am guessing the inner tie rods have play in them. Or perhaps the rack itself has play in it? Could it be the LCA bushings?
Oh and also. the drive side CV axle is spewing grease every where and perhaps the clunk might be coming from it but that won't explain the lateral play in the front end.
Last week, I started feeling the driver front wheel clunk softly when it goes over the bumps. So I jacked up by the LCA and checked for play by grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 oclock. Sure enough there is pretty noticeable play!
Then I tried the pry bar under the front wheel to see if there is any play in the lower ball joint (the UCA, Lower BJ and the outer tie rods are brand new in the last 3000 miles) - well I didn't find any there. Next, I looked at the steering rack closely while shaking the wheel and didn't notice any movement in the rack itself (it also has new poly bushings).
The steering fluid doesn't seem to ever go low, there are no leaks anywhere so I am hoping the rack had some life left in it.
So now, I am guessing the inner tie rods have play in them. Or perhaps the rack itself has play in it? Could it be the LCA bushings?
Oh and also. the drive side CV axle is spewing grease every where and perhaps the clunk might be coming from it but that won't explain the lateral play in the front end.
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- Thread starter
- #344
On electrical end, I finally got rid of the nonoperational Ironman 275 amp dual battery controller and replaced it with a Blue Sea ML-ACR (Amazon product ASIN B001VIXLRO) mounted on the Owl Expedition Accessory Tray (100 Series Land Cruiser and LX470 Accessory Tray - https://owlexpedition.com/collections/100-series-land-cruiser-lx470/products/100-series-land-cruiser-and-lx470-accesory-tray).
This is the second tray and probably the 4th item I have bought from @Ramathorn15 and they have all been great products and very affordably priced!
A view of the very full engine bay.
This is the second tray and probably the 4th item I have bought from @Ramathorn15 and they have all been great products and very affordably priced!
A view of the very full engine bay.
There will always be a small amount of movement in the steering lockout.
- Thread starter
- #346
One little niggling issue I have had since the beginning is play in the steering wheel. The wheel had play vertically and horizontally. Based on @katit 's post in his thread, I ordered these tiny bushings 90389-08124 that go on the four pivot point for steering wheel. All in all pretty easy job.
1. take off 3 Philips screws on the bottom of the clamshell covering the steering column. (two are behind steering wheel, just turn steering wheel to get to them)
2. separate the top and bottom pieces of the clamshell cover.
3. Take off the pivot bolts for the top pivot (do only 2 at a time) - I did 2 top ones first and then 2 bottom ones. bolts are 6 mm Allen heads
4. replace the bushings and put everything back together.
View from the top
View from the side.
1. take off 3 Philips screws on the bottom of the clamshell covering the steering column. (two are behind steering wheel, just turn steering wheel to get to them)
2. separate the top and bottom pieces of the clamshell cover.
3. Take off the pivot bolts for the top pivot (do only 2 at a time) - I did 2 top ones first and then 2 bottom ones. bolts are 6 mm Allen heads
4. replace the bushings and put everything back together.
View from the top
View from the side.
Awesome. I have been putting this off thinking it would be a pain. Do the little bushings become visible once your remove the allen heads?
- Thread starter
- #348
It is a very straight forward job. Once you remove both upper, the whole steering wheel mount swing down and you can replace the bushing on the column. Same goes for the lower pair too.
Man I love that long-range tank...
You're going to end up costing me some money.
You're going to end up costing me some money.
- Thread starter
- #353
Thanks @MJK .
So almost 4 months after I replaced the passenger side exhaust header, I finally gathered enough courage to start working on the driver side. Welp after taking off the under shield, disconnecting the cat side connection and taking 2 of the 8 nuts off, I ran out of patience. Bravely, I put everything back to it's original place, and decided to shelf the project for another day!
While I was under the truck I had the distinctive pleasure of finding out that passenger side CV, after having busted it's outer boot at some previous time, has expelled all of it's life-preserving unguent and is now gleefully airing its innards via a gaping gash. The driver side CV appears to be on the verge of following suit unabashedly. A quick call to the local blood suckers (otherwise knows as dealership) revealed that the remanufactured units (43430-60040-84) are nationally backordered.
Some days are just lovely and full of joy...
So almost 4 months after I replaced the passenger side exhaust header, I finally gathered enough courage to start working on the driver side. Welp after taking off the under shield, disconnecting the cat side connection and taking 2 of the 8 nuts off, I ran out of patience. Bravely, I put everything back to it's original place, and decided to shelf the project for another day!
While I was under the truck I had the distinctive pleasure of finding out that passenger side CV, after having busted it's outer boot at some previous time, has expelled all of it's life-preserving unguent and is now gleefully airing its innards via a gaping gash. The driver side CV appears to be on the verge of following suit unabashedly. A quick call to the local blood suckers (otherwise knows as dealership) revealed that the remanufactured units (43430-60040-84) are nationally backordered.
Some days are just lovely and full of joy...
- Thread starter
- #354
I have been struggling with figuring out my preference for rear swing outs. Truck came with ARB bumper with dual spare wheel swing out:
Very first thing I realized was that taking the spare off impossible without tools! I literally had to unbolt the rear license plate holder, backup lamps and disconnect all the wires, before I could even start taking off the spare!! Imagine having to deal with all that at the Interstate when it is -20F
So the first iteration was to move the spare to it's own swing out!
Soon I realized, having to deal with two swing outs every time I need to open the hatch was just not practical for daily use. Then I added a hitch mounted bike rack and basically gave up on using the hatch. So I decided to remove at least one swing out (at least for daily duties). Taking off the swing out was fairly straight forward (a single 30mm M20 bolt!). I ordered a blank cover for the left side but quickly realized that ARB calls for removal of the whole bumper just to install the cover!
So now that where I am with left face of the bumper missing!
What do you guys think, just run without cover (I am not too concerned with the looks) but if there is another way to install the cover.
Very first thing I realized was that taking the spare off impossible without tools! I literally had to unbolt the rear license plate holder, backup lamps and disconnect all the wires, before I could even start taking off the spare!! Imagine having to deal with all that at the Interstate when it is -20F
So the first iteration was to move the spare to it's own swing out!
Soon I realized, having to deal with two swing outs every time I need to open the hatch was just not practical for daily use. Then I added a hitch mounted bike rack and basically gave up on using the hatch. So I decided to remove at least one swing out (at least for daily duties). Taking off the swing out was fairly straight forward (a single 30mm M20 bolt!). I ordered a blank cover for the left side but quickly realized that ARB calls for removal of the whole bumper just to install the cover!
So now that where I am with left face of the bumper missing!
What do you guys think, just run without cover (I am not too concerned with the looks) but if there is another way to install the cover.
If you gave up on the hatch then why not put the swing arm back? It does look a little broken…I have been struggling with figuring out my preference for rear swing outs. Truck came with ARB bumper with dual spare wheel swing out:
View attachment 2813611
Very first thing I realized was that taking the spare off impossible without tools! I literally had to unbolt the rear license plate holder, backup lamps and disconnect all the wires, before I could even start taking off the spare!! Imagine having to deal with all that at the Interstate when it is -20F
So the first iteration was to move the spare to it's own swing out!
View attachment 2813612
Soon I realized, having to deal with two swing outs every time I need to open the hatch was just not practical for daily use. Then I added a hitch mounted bike rack and basically gave up on using the hatch. So I decided to remove at least one swing out (at least for daily duties). Taking off the swing out was fairly straight forward (a single 30mm M20 bolt!). I ordered a blank cover for the left side but quickly realized that ARB calls for removal of the whole bumper just to install the cover!
So now that where I am with left face of the bumper missing!
What do you guys think, just run without cover (I am not too concerned with the looks) but if there is another way to install the cover.
View attachment 2813613
- Thread starter
- #356
That's my whole problem. I really want to use the hatch and tailgate. With only one swing out, it is somewhat manageable.,
Can you cut the carrier portion off of the swing arm you wont be using and use that as 'the cover'? The swing arm would be there ready for you to weld another carrier or whatever on in the future, if desired. I am not familiar with how the ARB latching mechanism works, but I assume both swing away's are latched individually.
- Thread starter
- #358
Yes they are latched separately. I really love the idea of chopping off the top loop and then using the swing out as cover.
My only hesitation is the swingout is worth a few $100s, while a brand new cover is just a t $100.
May be I could weld a hitch receiver to the second swing out and mount my bike rack on it, making it easier to swing out the bike rack out of the way!
I had the same idea when I installed my rear bumper- just run one swing out when the 2nd isn't needed.
I just put a lot of crap in my back seat now.
I just put a lot of crap in my back seat now.
- Thread starter
- #360
Decided to refresh the remaining rubber parts in the front end. New LCAs, tie rod ends etc, made a pretty significant improvement over the summer, but I just didn't have the time to deal with more involved bushings like the AHC shocks and LCAs.
Ordered AC Delco bushings (they are OEM toyota boxed as ACD!) and a couple of 555 branded LBJs. Had a local shop press in the bushing No.1 in the LCAs and lower round bushing on the shocks.
I took care of the bushing No.2 on the frame for LCAs and the LBJs. Still waiting on a couple of parts to show up in the mail (shock bushings are taking their sweet time!)
parts $350, labor $120, time about 6 hours:
ACDELCO 45G9288 Front Lower Forward Bushing x2
ACDELCO 45G9287 Front Lower Rearward Bushing x2
Sankei 555 ball joints x2
90316-72001 SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER),RH/LH x2
90903-89016 BUSH(FOR FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER)
90948-01075 CUSHION, FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER, NO.1 x2
90948-01076 CUSHION, FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER, NO.2 x2
43423-35010 CAP, FRONT AXLE HUB GREASE, RH/LH x2
90311-47013 OIL SEAL, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, RH/LH x2
90119-14093 BOLT, W/WASHER x2
90179-14045 NUT(FOR FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER BRACKET LOWER) x2
Still looking like this:
Ordered AC Delco bushings (they are OEM toyota boxed as ACD!) and a couple of 555 branded LBJs. Had a local shop press in the bushing No.1 in the LCAs and lower round bushing on the shocks.
I took care of the bushing No.2 on the frame for LCAs and the LBJs. Still waiting on a couple of parts to show up in the mail (shock bushings are taking their sweet time!)
parts $350, labor $120, time about 6 hours:
ACDELCO 45G9288 Front Lower Forward Bushing x2
ACDELCO 45G9287 Front Lower Rearward Bushing x2
Sankei 555 ball joints x2
90316-72001 SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER),RH/LH x2
90903-89016 BUSH(FOR FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER)
90948-01075 CUSHION, FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER, NO.1 x2
90948-01076 CUSHION, FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER, NO.2 x2
43423-35010 CAP, FRONT AXLE HUB GREASE, RH/LH x2
90311-47013 OIL SEAL, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, RH/LH x2
90119-14093 BOLT, W/WASHER x2
90179-14045 NUT(FOR FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER BRACKET LOWER) x2
Still looking like this:
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