No they don't! I lived in Bham for about 10 years and played music there for most of it. Probably ran across one another at some point. Did you ever go to Marty's? Lol
No they don't! I lived in Bham for about 10 years and played music there for most of it. Probably ran across one another at some point. Did you ever go to Marty's? Lol
Haha, wow, Marty's. Best Budweiser and Grilled Cheese at 3am I've ever had! That was always my go to spot to get food before I headed home after other late night shenanigans. I remember when Marty passed. I recall one time I was in there and he was telling me about his trip to Amsterdam with his girlfriend.
I bet Marty's is one of the many places we crossed paths at.
Coolant flush complete. It wasn't water-clear after flushing but a lot better than it looked when I started. Temps are up from 185 pre-flush to around 190 post-flush. Might just need to circulate a bit. Plus I was running my heater full blast. The heater seems to be putting out a lot more heat....even though it was super hot before.
I thought about running an 'always hot' to the back for the USB and 12v plug in, but I already have an amp wire back there so I think for now I am just going to put a fuse in between the amp wire and the USB/12v and the. It will always be hot anyway.
Add a fuse in the 'CIG' lighter to trigger the relay to switch the Blue Sea on and off.
I mounted 2 relays, but I will only need 1 since I am keeping it all on 1 bus...so I will just take the other down I guess.
I thought about mounting the box in the center console (or under), under the PS seat, or even taking the dash speaker out of the PS and mounting it there, but for the sake of running wires and easy access, I think I am going to mount to the firewall on the DS....behind the pedals. There is plenty of room.
Got in a lot of LEDs....my antenna light (that works the non-existent antenna) was out so I replaced that with blue. I hanged the rear side markers with white 194s and I am going to do all of the blinkers with amber 1056 bulbs. I have the resistor things to slow the blinking so I might do that Saturday or Sunday. Also put in 194s for the license plate. Below are some LED vs incandescent. I will put the incandescent first and then the LED.
For the turn signals the LEDs aren't as 'washy' or bright. It gives it a cleaner look but if you want a light that says 'HEY I AM TURNING' it might be better to keep incandescent. I will test it out and see how I like it.
I just ordered the correct bulbs off of Amazon and popped them in. Pretty easy. If you change the blinkers you will need to get a flasher relay so that the blinkers don't hyper blink. I ordered another relay from amazon as the first one didn't work....so I will post the link once I get it plugged in and verify it works.
Switches came in so I installeda switch to turn the 'hot always' USB/12v ports on or off. That way I didn't have to worry about the LED lights on the ports phantom draining the battery. So now I can leave the LC off and charge phones, etc.
I already ran my sub amp back there so I piggy backed off the power cable I ran. The sockets have fuses to prevent anything blowing up that is plugged up.
Put the switch up high so it wouldn't get switched accidentally by stuff that might be stored in the back.
Those power inverters pull some serious amps! Even the small ones require a 20A fuse. I had to run new wires in my truck because the gauge was too small to handle the power.
Those power inverters pull some serious amps! Even the small ones require a 20A fuse. I had to run new wires in my truck because the gauge was too small to handle the power.
Switches came in so I installeda switch to turn the 'hot always' USB/12v ports on or off. That way I didn't have to worry about the LED lights on the ports phantom draining the battery. So now I can leave the LC off and charge phones, etc.
I already ran my sub amp back there so I piggy backed off the power cable I ran. The sockets have fuses to prevent anything blowing up that is plugged up.
Put the switch up high so it wouldn't get switched accidentally by stuff that might be stored in the back.
Read this with the knowledge that I am in general, lazy and only want to do a job once. If you spend a little more and run some heavy gauge cable to the back and terminate it in the same place you are mounting the inverter you will then have a built in power source for anything you wish to put in the back of your truck. I ran a winch in the back of my FJC with similar. I ran a pair of 2/0 inside some heavy split loom. Clamped to the frame all the way back.
The cost is a bit more up front but you are done messing with running power to the rear of the truck. Run a matching ground and terminate that as well and you will be set. Don't forget a proper fuse on the battery end of the run.
If it's a plastic mount and what looks like a plastic strap it sure will. Did you nut & bolt it or just use self tapping screws? Either way, the plastic is gonna give at some point.
Please don't take my comment as rude, but that's one hell of a projectile if it were to come loose in an impact. Especially when it's already at head level. Wits End is totally correct about secure mounting with a metal bracket. Also, heaving having (couldn't resist) it at the driver location is most ideal if you consider the time it would take to run to the back, open the hatch and get it in action, especially if you have to assist kids getting out of their seats. Fires spread quickly. But it's at the ideal location if most of your flammable endeavors happen when parked with the tailgate open and grill burning.
I applaud you for at least jumping in and doing stuff to your truck. I've been the biggest slacker around here for the last year or two. Are you gonna be able to make the M&G to show off your truck? I think we'll have a lot to talk about with our musical backgrounds.