The Sideyard '78. Tom's FJ40 story...........

[tls3601]

@GA Architect Ricks suggestion to use the VHB Tape to attach vapor seals-also from Rick was brilliant, made the job very easy!!! Thanks again Rick for your input on this

 

[GA Architect]

Tom,
I see you have the VHB tape at the top. My doors didn't have the OEM black sealant wasn't across the top, so I didn't put any VHB tape there, as seen below. I just let the plastic inserts hold the top part of the vapor barrier in place. I don't think the VHB being at the top is a problem, but just thought I'd mention it.

Note: It probably goes without saying, but be sure to not pull the VHB tape covering off till you have the vapor barrier situated to your liking. Use the pre-cut holes with the plastic inserts loosely in place as the guide. Once the vapor barrier is where you want it, press the inserts firmly into place, then remove the VHB covering, and starting from the top, firmly press the vapor barrier to the VHB tape....done!

 

[tls3601]

With having just cut my finger nails it was kind of tricky peeling away the plastic covering to reveal the sticky side and press on the vapor seal but that was a very minor grip-your technique Rick worked excellent here!

 

[tls3601]

Door panels installed, the latch on this passenger side seems to not want to "seat" into place. Pleased with refurb though

 

[tls3601]

Doors on!!! My door pin lmiter rebuild Kit from Cruiser Corps slid into place but the pin is too short and just barely makes it thru with not even enough clearance to put cotter pin thru it to say nothing of the above and below washers!! Anyone else have this issue? More pics to come...

 

[GHalll]

@GA Architect Ricks suggestion to use the VHB Tape to attach vapor seals-also from Rick was brilliant, made the job very easy!!! Thanks again Rick for your input on thisView attachment 1393777

Bookmarked for my vapor barrier install from @GA Architect. Thanks for the write up and great work @tls3601!

 

[tls3601]

@ GHalll yes using Ricks techniques and vapor barrier made for a quicker job. The pins themselves from CC are a bit short but I imagine the right OD bolt with a nut will solve this issue, wondering how other folks have addressed this limiter pin dilemma as OEM is NLA?

 

[tls3601]

So I called Cruiser Corps over lunch at work today about my limiter pins from their kit being too short. They guy I spoke with John? said to take a vise grip and squeeze the upper and lower metal pieces of the door together so the pin goes thru further and allows clearance for the washers above and below the metal pieces and of course the cotter pin going thru the pin itself. This just seems wrong as my metal door pieces are nice and parralel with no signs of them having been spread apart. What does everyone think about this? I have considered just finding a bolt with the same OD as the pin and going that route! Dont want to bend the 38 year old tabs.................Opinions appreciated-thanks!

 

[mrboatman]

You might try McMaster Carr for a longer pin or a bolt the correct size and just drill a hole for the cotter pin

 

[ginmtb]

Don't squeeze your originals! That is lame advice. Sell a product that actually works! Check these out:

McMaster-Carr

If you go this route, please post what you end up getting so people can use something that works vs. buying one that doesn't. Thanks!

 

[tls3601]

Yes no way will I squeeze my tabs-did not like that advice. I am going to look for the correct length clevis pin at hardware store today! Will post up my fix! McMaster and cruiserparts.net have some cool options as well. At least the white spacer donuts fit correctly on the Cruiser Corps pin kit...................

 

[tls3601]

Side panels being touched up and refurbed. Waiting on weatherstrips

 

[G-Cat]

Waiting on weatherstrips

Would love a step-by-step on removing windows/gaskets from the later sides. Big windows and corner windows. I have a pair to color-change.

 

[tls3601]

@G-Cat I do have some discoloration in my inner side panels, but budget just wont allow for taking the panels down and fresh paint. However the good news is that the outsides have excellent paint. My rig has little rust(Arizona) so I think of my resto as a frame on! If I do pull them apart of course will post up pics How is the off road scene there in Georgia? I know Rick(GA Architect) has posted up some great pics of his 40 off road.

 

[tls3601]

Decided to go this way with door limiter pins, thanks again Rick!

Front Door Limiter Bolt Set 1/75-1984 FJ40/FJ45 [G-16] - $8.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

 

[tls3601]

Doors complete and installed.................the Cruiserparts.net bolt and nut kit

 

[tls3601]

A few weeks ago my old 3 core radiator began to leak, so ordered up an new OEM 4 core and installed it with new upper and lower hoses and clamps. A rainy weekend up here and not warm enough to spray paint, so a job in the garage was in order!!!

 

[tls3601]

So my neighbors are encouraging me to put my 40 in the car show at the clubhouse in May, so I have been working like mad on getting my hardtop refurbed and other little things like cleaning up my jump seats. Will order 3M Roloc wheel to clean out the adhesive and old foam from under top tonight. Touched up and painted legs for jump seats, need to re-install. And, put on new straps from Cruiser Corps. Anyone use the stainless steel bolt kits from CC for installing side panels to tub and top to side panels?? Just wondering what folks thing of them..............

 

[tls3601]

Planning on using this wheel:
SCOTCH-BRITE 3" Tapered Bristle Disc, 50 Grit, Ceramic, Roll-On/Off (TR), 5/8" Trim Length - 6RX79|18734 - Grainger

Thanks @overton

 

[SW20]

I like your aftermarket rear bumper/tire carrier in the pics when you just got it. Do you know what brand that is?