That Jeep ain't no POS!
Great to meet you!
Great to meet you!
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With respect to Jeep vehicles I would adopt Holy Moses (Moses Ludel) axiom: "the older, the better"!
Having said (and written) that in the early ninenties, I doubt he could forseen the worst coming, with the Fiat "Jeeps" of the 21st century....
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As promised, here are some fall pics
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Not much fall in this one, just pretty western TN.
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Went wheeling this weekend with a big group of my buds. Towed my free Willys with my free 60 series haha. Blew the front differential up on the Willys, sounded like I stripped out the ring gear. When I first got it the spider gears in the front were blown up into pieces, and all of the shrapnel chewed up the ring gear... so I smoothed it out with an angle grinder flap disc and threw it back together lol. Good thing I don't ever really drive it, especially in 4WD. I'll buy a used third member at some point and slap it in. The 60 decided to blow a transfer case output seal, spewing gear oil everywhere. Had to fill it up with a quart every 40 miles... talk about annoying.
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Also ran into @onemanarmy out on the trails totally by chance, my POS Jeep had a temporary issue on the trails, and he just happened to drive by. Was nice to meet face to face, even though it wasn't for long
Finally got to test out my great friend's 1JZ-swapped 4Runner. It did great after the solid axle swap we did to it last April.
I got back home late last night (due to my repeated stops having to fill up with gear oil over and over again) and went to sleep. Woke up in the morning to this pleasant surprise!
Well, it served me well. $180 for a carport that held up since March. Did all of the troopy welding repair underneath it, really can't complain. Who knows how much longer it would have lasted if this crazy snowstorm didn't come through here last night. The Red Rocket has now been reduced to being protected by a measly tarp, no match for my high-end top-of-the-line carport. Hopefully will come into some money sooner than later to buy the CORRECT windshield with and not have to worry about tarping it, and also being able to drive it around and all would be nice too.
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My beater pickup got real loud and smelly last week, crawled underneath and the muffler had passed away. Lucky for me, I found this other used muffler in the woods behind my house a couple months back. SCORE! The diameter of the pipe and everything was the same. It was divine intervention, meant to be. After a bit of flux core welding, the beater truck is now quiet again.
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And check out this gate I made at work from scratch. It was for the 2nd-oldest house in Blowing Rock, NC. Personally not my cup of tea, but it was cool to make regardless.
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I'll be back whenever I can afford another windshield. Until then, keep arguing about caulk
Beautiful autumn pics, thanks for sharing!
Hey @theglobb i sent you a pm about your transmission adapter
theglobb
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I am a man of my word, one month later and I'm back to it. I sold some stuff on marketplace and took a gamble on ordering another windshield from a Toyota dealer. This one said if it didn't fit that I could return it no issues aslong as I didnt mess with the packaging too much.
And she fits!
I would have put it in today, but of course it started raining. I also have a 101°F fever and zero energy at the moment. Saturday it's supposed to be raining all day aswell. So Sunday, hopefully I'll feel better and it won't be raining so I can throw it in.
I know there were mixed opinions about caulking it in place but I am 100% going to caulk it. Sorry if that hurts to hear but this troopy is a total piece of crap, as long as it doesn't leak into the cabin and I can drive it around, I do not care about the OEM originality of it or that it doesn't have the correct fit & finish haha. I JUST WANT TO DRIVE IT.
Now that leads me to a couple questions. Does anyone have any advice when it comes to keeping the bottom of the windshield from sinking to the bottom of the windshield frame while the caulk is drying? Should I put little pegs in place and then pull them out once its hardened, orrrr? Any and all ideas are welcome. PROGRESS! We are getting so close! (I feel like I've been saying this for the past 6 months now haha)
Do you not have a gasket for it? Honestly installing with a gasket using the rope trick works pretty nicely. I can definitely understand the desire to have it back on the road ASAP, I think I've only had mine roadworthy for a little over 50% of the time I've owned it. Light at the end of the tunnel!
theglobb
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I do have a gasket for it. Im planning on cutting the back lip off of it so it’ll sit flush and caulking it on after the initial caulk has dried so it doesn’t look so terrible from the outside. If a guy that does it for a living fought with it for 6 hours and couldn’t get it in… I don’t have any hope in me being able to get it in. The windshield frame is likely tweaked from me not welding it back together perfectly square in combo with the body shifting when I cut the a pillars apart without thinking to weld any braces in place.
That makes more sense, for some reason I thought you were just planning on fastening the windshield into the bare opening with caulk. I can totally imagine the opening might be a little off, stuff like that generally requires a lot of bracing to keep it in place when cutting and welding.
Can you fasten the windshield at the top with some heavy duty tape, then brace it at the bottom from the inside to keep it from sinking too far? Sort of like a door hinged at the top with a door stop at the bottom to maintain position.
Can you fasten the windshield at the top with some heavy duty tape, then brace it at the bottom from the inside to keep it from sinking too far? Sort of like a door hinged at the top with a door stop at the bottom to maintain position.
Hi
I would generally also suggest the gasket, but this comes with a few side conditions...
The gasket only works, if the edges of the frame are smooth surface and straight and the frame in itself not bent or buckled.
The gasket is very stiff and appears to be too long (which it of course is not, it gets stretched in the process ). You need to carefully massage it in place (not having the patience for that causes humps in the gasket; imho the most common reasons for the glass to break eventually). This and also the rope trick requires the gasket to be flexible, means: The gasket and also the frame and the glass need to be and needs to stay warm for the time of the operation. Doesn't look like warm out there... You might be better off with the chaulk.
Nevertheless: Make sure the contact edges are straight. Make sure the paint sticks well. Make sure everything is dry; really dry (quite a concern looking at your workplace condition). Take your time.
I really suggest to find a dry place in a shop or barn for this; I wouldn't do it outside in the elements.
I wouldn't be overly concerned of the screen sinking to the bottom, if you use the right caulk. (I started that discussion for a reason
).That stuff typically binds within 30min to an extent it can bear the weight and downward sheer. You can put a few strips of tape to the roof to prevent sliding. (Just my guess, I never caulked in a screen).
My 2cnt Good Luck
RalfThe rope trick works better if you use a smooth rope 3/8 in in diameter and keep it in a bucket water and dish soap with a sponge until you're ready to use it. A little soapy water around the gasket works wonders to get it to slip in. Warming up the gasket is important if the weather is cold. Perhaps hanging it in proper shape from the curtain rod in your shower then put a space heater in the bathroom to warm that room up to about 80° until you're ready to put the gasket in...... You might give this a shot before you completely rely on the caulk.... A suction cup dent puller, or a suction cup camera mount can attach firmly to the glass and then use a rope of some sort to hold the windshield up while the caulk sets if the tape does not work. If you go for the tape alien tape is probably best.
2x with @robmobile73 .
However, it takes quite a while to get the gasket in place. It will cool over this. You need a warm environment for this. (Also for the caulk, anyways)
That part is too expensive to experiment.
Take your time and do it right. Don't rush it.
Good Luck Ralf
However, it takes quite a while to get the gasket in place. It will cool over this. You need a warm environment for this. (Also for the caulk, anyways)
That part is too expensive to experiment.
Take your time and do it right. Don't rush it.
Good Luck Ralf
Well, glueing the glass instead of using weatherstrip is something reversible. Cut the caulking, cleaning...
I did use a thin sticking weatherstrip to position the glass on the frame, test position before caulking. (And avoid urethane to flow inside)
I think I used a piece of rubber to avoid the glass to creep down, but can't recall.
I wouldn't cut the OEM weatherstrip to install over the glass for aesthetic. I did something similar at first but was a bad idea. Urethane does not stick on the weatherstrip, water get behind. Later I removed that piece of rubber (aesthetic) and filled the gap with caulking (urethane).
Make sure surface is well prepare and paint is good.
I removed my first windshield because it was leaking badly, bough a new gasket and couldn't install it. (Did not know the frame was filled with bondo). Then had the idea of "adjusting" the glass to fit. It when I realised that Tempered glass really mean it oups, broke in billion pieces ahah. When I received the new "Laminated" one, like you, even if I cleaned, repaired the frame, I wasn't sure it was strait and was scare to break the glass. Like you said, my truck it not going to win a price in an autoshow
theglobb
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Welp my fever only got worse, ended up at 103f, I got the flu. Regardless, I really didn't have much time left to do this. The outside temperature in combination with incoming rain, Thanksgiving, and a cold front coming soon meant I had to get this windshield in, either with the gasket or caulking it in. There would be no other time weather/temperature permitting for the next couple of months to be able to do this. I sadly don't know anyone I could ask to briefly use their shop or dry area to do this in.
Onto the caulk, I got Sikaflex P2G a while ago for this exact installation. Test fit the windsheild again and looked where I needed to go extra heavy or a little thin in some spots, applied it, and like y'all had said, it didn't sink to the bottom, where I placed it was where it stayed.
Here's the final(ish) result! Still have lots of little touch-up stuff to do everywhere cosmetically, and lots mechanically.
I mentioned that 1inch or so gap at the top earlier, well that was remedied by hooking a ratchet strap to a suction cup on the inside and tightening it down. Pulled that gap right in without stressing anything too much.
Doing this with the flu absolutely sucked the life out of me. But hey, at least all of the glass is in it now! Just gotta figure out how to get some money for 2 batteries and then I can really drive it around like before.
After holding the windshield in place of the frame, it was very obvious it wasn't going to fit with the gasket. This new one was significantly more curved than my old one that I was using to mock stuff up with when welding everything together/recreating how much of a bend should be in stuff. We tried briefly just cause with the rope and yea... not happening. The top had like a solid inch-wide gap between the windshield and the windshield frame due to it being so much more curved.
Onto the caulk, I got Sikaflex P2G a while ago for this exact installation. Test fit the windsheild again and looked where I needed to go extra heavy or a little thin in some spots, applied it, and like y'all had said, it didn't sink to the bottom, where I placed it was where it stayed.
Here's the final(ish) result! Still have lots of little touch-up stuff to do everywhere cosmetically, and lots mechanically.
I mentioned that 1inch or so gap at the top earlier, well that was remedied by hooking a ratchet strap to a suction cup on the inside and tightening it down. Pulled that gap right in without stressing anything too much.
Doing this with the flu absolutely sucked the life out of me. But hey, at least all of the glass is in it now! Just gotta figure out how to get some money for 2 batteries and then I can really drive it around like before.
Thanks for the tip. Maybe I'll figure out some other way to incorporate the OEM weatherstrip on it, but I doubt it.
Glad it worked out good for you.
Bed now and take a rest. Get well soon.
All the best Ralf
Bed now and take a rest. Get well soon.
All the best Ralf
theglobb
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Got it out on the road!
Had to pop the top of course
The past couple of days have been spent tidying stuff up. My frustration with the South African poptop manufacturer had faded in the past year or so of the top sitting idle, went to install these brackets to secure the top to the troopy with physical hardware... all of that frustration came back. None of the pre-drilled holes lined up at all, but they were close enough that you couldn't drill another hole! Working in all of these tight little areas trying to get nuts started and wallowing out the pre-existing holes was a PITA. Took about 5 hours to install 4 of the 6 brackets... I just gave up on the middle 2 brackets, as there is no way I would ever be able to install them.
Spent 45 minutes just trying to get this lined up if that gives y'all any idea of what it was like
The Red Rocket has been used as parts/tool storage since last March, cleared it all out and got bucketloads of sandblasting media out of all the nooks & crannies.
Crazy to think this was the upper passenger side corner of the A pillar... will be cavity waxing pretty much EVERYWHERE once I get everything sorted.
and to close out this update, a pretty neat FB Marketplace find for $10. Came on a 1988 Toyota Pickup right from the dealer here in Boone.
Lots to do still! So so much. Still needs brake lines going to the rear from when my clutch line wore thru the brake hardline when I drove it up here with no windshield. Some electrical needs to be gone through as when I try to turn on my 24v-12v power converter, it immediately blows my main fusible link. I think I'll wait until after Christmas until I have enough money to purchase another battery and just have a third 12v battery and a 24v-12v Converter that just charges that one battery so I can run all sorts of 12v stuff of it (fridge, lights, diesel heater, etc) for when I build out the interior.
Needs plenty more as well: throughout bearing is failing as it had a factory defect, but I put it in anyways cause I didn't wanna wait 2 weeks for another to be shipped. The handbrake cable has totally frozen solid. Blower motor stopped working. Interior panels need to be made, more rust prevention underneath the car. There's so much I can't think of but it's FAR from over. Just so relieved to be able to drive the thing again.
Had to pop the top of course
The past couple of days have been spent tidying stuff up. My frustration with the South African poptop manufacturer had faded in the past year or so of the top sitting idle, went to install these brackets to secure the top to the troopy with physical hardware... all of that frustration came back. None of the pre-drilled holes lined up at all, but they were close enough that you couldn't drill another hole! Working in all of these tight little areas trying to get nuts started and wallowing out the pre-existing holes was a PITA. Took about 5 hours to install 4 of the 6 brackets... I just gave up on the middle 2 brackets, as there is no way I would ever be able to install them.
Spent 45 minutes just trying to get this lined up if that gives y'all any idea of what it was like
The Red Rocket has been used as parts/tool storage since last March, cleared it all out and got bucketloads of sandblasting media out of all the nooks & crannies.
Crazy to think this was the upper passenger side corner of the A pillar... will be cavity waxing pretty much EVERYWHERE once I get everything sorted.
and to close out this update, a pretty neat FB Marketplace find for $10. Came on a 1988 Toyota Pickup right from the dealer here in Boone.
Lots to do still! So so much. Still needs brake lines going to the rear from when my clutch line wore thru the brake hardline when I drove it up here with no windshield. Some electrical needs to be gone through as when I try to turn on my 24v-12v power converter, it immediately blows my main fusible link. I think I'll wait until after Christmas until I have enough money to purchase another battery and just have a third 12v battery and a 24v-12v Converter that just charges that one battery so I can run all sorts of 12v stuff of it (fridge, lights, diesel heater, etc) for when I build out the interior.
Needs plenty more as well: throughout bearing is failing as it had a factory defect, but I put it in anyways cause I didn't wanna wait 2 weeks for another to be shipped. The handbrake cable has totally frozen solid. Blower motor stopped working. Interior panels need to be made, more rust prevention underneath the car. There's so much I can't think of but it's FAR from over. Just so relieved to be able to drive the thing again.
Always love following this thread.
Re: 24 to 12V - many things now run natively off of 24V, including most fridges, diesel heaters, LEDs. Thinner wires, less complexity, one fewer part to fail, and one expense off of the list for you.
I would stick with 24V.
Re: 24 to 12V - many things now run natively off of 24V, including most fridges, diesel heaters, LEDs. Thinner wires, less complexity, one fewer part to fail, and one expense off of the list for you.
I would stick with 24V.
You realize this sort of creative tenacity qualifies you to be a front-runner for a future manned mission to Mars? I'd never wish that on you........ On the threaded holes not lining up My truck cutting some metal tabs and threading them then threading bolts through the top into those tabs and positioning the top where you want then just tack will those tabs to your troopy instead of trying to match whatever holes are in the troopy.Got it out on the road!
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Had to pop the top of course
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The past couple of days have been spent tidying stuff up. My frustration with the South African poptop manufacturer had faded in the past year or so of the top sitting idle, went to install these brackets to secure the top to the troopy with physical hardware... all of that frustration came back. None of the pre-drilled holes lined up at all, but they were close enough that you couldn't drill another hole! Working in all of these tight little areas trying to get nuts started and wallowing out the pre-existing holes was a PITA. Took about 5 hours to install 4 of the 6 brackets... I just gave up on the middle 2 brackets, as there is no way I would ever be able to install them.View attachment 4040818
Spent 45 minutes just trying to get this lined up if that gives y'all any idea of what it was like
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The Red Rocket has been used as parts/tool storage since last March, cleared it all out and got bucketloads of sandblasting media out of all the nooks & crannies.
View attachment 4040816
Crazy to think this was the upper passenger side corner of the A pillar... will be cavity waxing pretty much EVERYWHERE once I get everything sorted.
View attachment 4040817
and to close out this update, a pretty neat FB Marketplace find for $10. Came on a 1988 Toyota Pickup right from the dealer here in Boone.
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Lots to do still! So so much. Still needs brake lines going to the rear from when my clutch line wore thru the brake hardline when I drove it up here with no windshield. Some electrical needs to be gone through as when I try to turn on my 24v-12v power converter, it immediately blows my main fusible link. I think I'll wait until after Christmas until I have enough money to purchase another battery and just have a third 12v battery and a 24v-12v Converter that just charges that one battery so I can run all sorts of 12v stuff of it (fridge, lights, diesel heater, etc) for when I build out the interior.
Needs plenty more as well: throughout bearing is failing as it had a factory defect, but I put it in anyways cause I didn't wanna wait 2 weeks for another to be shipped. The handbrake cable has totally frozen solid. Blower motor stopped working. Interior panels need to be made, more rust prevention underneath the car. There's so much I can't think of but it's FAR from over. Just so relieved to be able to drive the thing again
x2. I first had a 24-12 converter in, but they draw a constant load that eventually drains the starter battery. Removed it and went for all 24V.
In the long run, @theglobb s idea is good: A separate house battery. But make sure there is a starter battery protector in place.
Cheers Ralf