The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread (2 Viewers)

[Ozzyosko]

Just to confirm that I have the official clunk/thunk going on in mine, is it a single clunk/thunk you guys are hearing on acceleration or does the noise continue? From what I understand the greasing of the slip yoke with moly grease alleviates the stiction which leads me to believe it's a single clunk/thunk that this thread is about.
My noise starts when under load on acceleration until I'm up and moving with 5-10 seconds worth of clunk clunk clunk. Also happens with compression braking.
Is this the same thing, or is my clunk clunk clunk completely different?

Cheers

 

[abuck99]

Ozzy- to cure driveline “clunk” there are at least a dozen areas of concern to check. Lubing driveshaft is one minor and temporary step.

If you have over 150k miles/240k km, and 10+ years bushes are worn and adding to driveline slop. All of the driveline and suspension components are interrelated and need checking especially rear upper & lower control arm bushes. Look for excessive movement, worn, torn and cracked bushings, loose or worn hardware. Anti sway bushes, shock bushes, front diff bushes, drive flanges, CV axles, ujoints, driveshaft splines.......

 

[2001LC]

Welcome to mud!

"5-10 seconds worth" is not normal associated with the slide yokes of propeller shafts (AKA driveshafts) clunk.

The Typical clunk/thunk is most easily heard while braking "clunk" then accelerate "thunk" without coming to a complet stop.

I suspect you've more than one think going on. Year, mileage, region of use will have its effect on rubber bushings & joints throughout the driveline and suspension system.

Check your Front drive shafts (AKA CV's), spider joints (AKA u-joints), and also bushing of: stabilizer system, UCA, LCA, differential, etc.

You'll also need to inspect: wheel bearing preload, control arms, ball joints, TRE, etc.

Feel free to start a thread on your issue. Pictures, videos, history of use and what PM & work has been done are helpful!

 

[Ozzyosko]

Just thought I'd provide an update to what my noise was. I put a couple of new CV shafts and flanges in and that has solved my issue. Cheers

 

[digitalmarker]

Ok folks, have been following and reading/re-reading this thread religiously over the past year.

I have 2 clunks that I am dealing with:

1. Audible clunk when shifting from P to D or R, or from N to D or R. I understand that this is pretty normal for a 200k+ vehicle, and can live with this as-is.
   
   
2. The other clunk is what has me worried and annoyed. The symptom is as follows:
   
   When cruising at a speed of 20+ MPH, I let go off the gas pedal, and more often than not hear a clunk coming from the front driver side (at least to the best of my knowledge/feel).
   
   When I press down on the gas pedal while coasting, I hear a clunk coming from the same front driver side area 100% of the time.
   
   This happens at virtually all speeds, city and highway, whenever I press on the gas and the drive train is re-engaged.

I have re-greased all zerks in the drive train, and most recently had my shop replace the hub flanges and install new CVs. They said the old hub flanges were pretty worn out, to a point where they damaged the splines on the new CVs I had installed a year ago. So, last week they warrantied the CVs for me and replaced them with brand new ones, and replaced the hub flanges with brand new OEM units.

Excited, I picked up the vehicle on Friday, only to get disappointed less than 100 yards away from the shop when I heard the clunk again by coasting and pressing on the gas pedal.

The clunk wasn't nearly as bad as it was previously, but I can definitely feel and hear it still.

Any thoughts/suggestions on what else could be causing this at this point? Hoping to narrow down the options somewhat before I start throwing more money at the problem.

Thanks in advance.

 

[2001LC]

Possibly front differential bushing. Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration) start at post #175 for front differential bushing replacement.

If this same shop replaced the front drive shaft (CV) last year. I'd want to know why the didn't replace hub flange and cone washer at that time also.

 

[JMan5000]

Ok folks, have been following and reading/re-reading this thread religiously over the past year.

I have 2 clunks that I am dealing with:

1. Audible clunk when shifting from P to D or R, or from N to D or R. I understand that this is pretty normal for a 200k+ vehicle, and can live with this as-is.
   
   
2. The other clunk is what has me worried and annoyed. The symptom is as follows:
   
   When cruising at a speed of 20+ MPH, I let go off the gas pedal, and more often than not hear a clunk coming from the front driver side (at least to the best of my knowledge/feel).
   
   When I press down on the gas pedal while coasting, I hear a clunk coming from the same front driver side area 100% of the time.
   
   This happens at virtually all speeds, city and highway, whenever I press on the gas and the drive train is re-engaged.

I have re-greased all zerks in the drive train, and most recently had my shop replace the hub flanges and install new CVs. They said the old hub flanges were pretty worn out, to a point where they damaged the splines on the new CVs I had installed a year ago. So, last week they warrantied the CVs for me and replaced them with brand new ones, and replaced the hub flanges with brand new OEM units.

Excited, I picked up the vehicle on Friday, only to get disappointed less than 100 yards away from the shop when I heard the clunk again by coasting and pressing on the gas pedal.

The clunk wasn't nearly as bad as it was previously, but I can definitely feel and hear it still.

Any thoughts/suggestions on what else could be causing this at this point? Hoping to narrow down the options somewhat before I start throwing more money at the problem.
Thanks in advance.

Same exact thing happening to mine. I've got an 02' w/ 158K. Did you go with OEM Yota CV's or aftermarket? My ride is in the shop right now and they're trying to tell me that my entire front diff needs to be replaced b/c there is a lot of play at the front driveshaft and CV's. I'm calling BS on that b/c they know LC's are hard to find good technicians for...

 

[digitalmarker]

I had aftermarket axles with old flanges for about a year. Since the clunk was getting progressively worse over time, I had the shop change the flanges to new OEM units thinking it would solve it. While at the shop I saw damage on the axle splines after less than a year of use. The flanges were in pretty bad shape too although they were originals with 220k+ miles.

My shop warrantied the axles since they didn't even last a year. When they got the new replacement axles and installed them with the new flanges, they saw that there was movement between flange teeth and axle teeth - very minor but still enough to notice, which means it would just get damaged and wear out quickly.

What's interesting is that after they installed new aftermarket axles with OEM flanges, the clunk went down significantly. Not gone completely, but at least 50% less audible than before, so getting the close tolerance between spline/flange teeth is a huge factor.

So, they managed to get refunded for the aftermarket axles since they didn't fit right, and I used that money to put toward OEM Toyota axles which are getting installed now. The expectation is that the tolerance will be a lot closer and not allow as much movement against the flange splines.

While it's in there, I had them replace all three of the front diff bushings, which should be arriving tomorrow or the day after. The front diff mounts is the only other area where I think there is movement, after driving around with a GoPro under the car. Whether that is the only or primary cause of the clunk is uncertain, but those bushings can't be in good shape after 220k+ miles.

Once I get the truck back I will post with an update on whether these fixes this fixed the clunk.

 

[JMan5000]

I had aftermarket axles with old flanges for about a year. Since the clunk was getting progressively worse over time, I had the shop change the flanges to new OEM units thinking it would solve it. While at the shop I saw damage on the axle splines after less than a year of use. The flanges were in pretty bad shape too although they were originals with 220k+ miles.

My shop warrantied the axles since they didn't even last a year. When they got the new replacement axles and installed them with the new flanges, they saw that there was movement between flange teeth and axle teeth - very minor but still enough to notice, which means it would just get damaged and wear out quickly.

What's interesting is that after they installed new aftermarket axles with OEM flanges, the clunk went down significantly. Not gone completely, but at least 50% less audible than before, so getting the close tolerance between spline/flange teeth is a huge factor.

So, they managed to get refunded for the aftermarket axles since they didn't fit right, and I used that money to put toward OEM Toyota axles which are getting installed now. The expectation is that the tolerance will be a lot closer and not allow as much movement against the flange splines.

While it's in there, I had them replace all three of the front diff bushings, which should be arriving tomorrow or the day after. The front diff mounts is the only other area where I think there is movement, after driving around with a GoPro under the car. Whether that is the only or primary cause of the clunk is uncertain, but those bushings can't be in good shape after 220k+ miles.

Once I get the truck back I will post with an update on whether these fixes this fixed the clunk.

I'm definitely going to have the flanges checked out, and I would love to go with OEM Yota CV's, but I'm not made of cash and this rig is teetering on the brink of being sold b/c of the maintenance/repairs needed just to make it a daily driver. The garage that has my rig only puts in new parts supposedly...as in, they're not going to repair anything in the front diff, such as bearings, bushings, etc. They want to find a donor and perform a transplant. Supposedly, my PS CV is OK...but they want to replace the entire assembly b/c there's a small rip in the CV boot (they think contaminants are getting in there making the CV axle untrustable). I'm not too excited about that and I'll probably be taking the rig to a different mechanic for a third opinion - the third mechanic does their own work, so rebuilding things would be an option if needed.

 

[geanes]

I'm definitely going to have the flanges checked out, and I would love to go with OEM Yota CV's, but I'm not made of cash and this rig is teetering on the brink of being sold b/c of the maintenance/repairs needed just to make it a daily driver. The garage that has my rig only puts in new parts supposedly...as in, they're not going to repair anything in the front diff, such as bearings, bushings, etc. They want to find a donor and perform a transplant. Supposedly, my PS CV is OK...but they want to replace the entire assembly b/c there's a small rip in the CV boot (they think contaminants are getting in there making the CV axle untrustable). I'm not too excited about that and I'll probably be taking the rig to a different mechanic for a third opinion - the third mechanic does their own work, so rebuilding things would be an option if needed.

Uh, if your mechanic thinks a small rip in the CV boot is enough to trash the whole assembly, he's either ignorant or trying to pull a fast one on you. I'd run from that guy. Odds are, you can simply clean/regrease/reboot using the OEM kit and reassemble with zero issue.

 

[JAntosch]

Still had a DS thunk just before coming to a stop after hard braking and again upon acceleration after lubing the driveshaft with moly grease the past two oil changes, chased it down to the DS diff drop crossmember where it bolts into the frame. Torqued down, resolved my issue. I'll be checking them every oil change from now on.

 

[JMan5000]

Still had a DS thunk just before coming to a stop after hard braking and again after acceleration after lubing the driveshaft with moly grease the past two oil changes, chased it down to the DS diff drop where it bolts into the frame. Torqued down, resolved my issue. I'll be checking them every oil change from now on.

Good call - I will certainly check that out! Thanks!

 

[JMan5000]

I'm posting my clunking issues here from now on - so I had my 02 LC in to 3 different places. First place thought it was a flange/CV axle spline issue...possible front diff bearing/bushing failure. Next place told me I needed a new CV axle and front diff...either a new one, donor or complete rebuild. Quote was $1400. Yeah right. Neither place ever worked on a LC after talking to them...so they're totally unfamiliar with the drivetrain slack. Then, I took it to a good transmission shop here in Milwaukee and they told me the rig's drivetrain is next to mint condition and the clunk I'm experiencing is nothing more than drivetrain slack/slop tolerances from 160K miles and 16 years of driving - nothing out of the ordinary and no reason to be concerned. He said to keep her properly lubed up and stay on top of maintenance and there'd be no issues. Holy Sh*t I feel like a gorilla has been lifted off of my back. Thanks to everyone who has shared their experiences and advice - I'm going to just live with the clunk and keep things greased up.

 

[geanes]

I'm posting my clunking issues here from now on - so I had my 02 LC in to 3 different places. First place thought it was a flange/CV axle spline issue...possible front diff bearing/bushing failure. Next place told me I needed a new CV axle and front diff...either a new one, donor or complete rebuild. Quote was $1400. Yeah right. Neither place ever worked on a LC after talking to them...so they're totally unfamiliar with the drivetrain slack. Then, I took it to a good transmission shop here in Milwaukee and they told me the rig's drivetrain is next to mint condition and the clunk I'm experiencing is nothing more than drivetrain slack/slop tolerances from 160K miles and 16 years of driving - nothing out of the ordinary and no reason to be concerned. He said to keep her properly lubed up and stay on top of maintenance and there'd be no issues. Holy Sh*t I feel like a gorilla has been lifted off of my back. Thanks to everyone who has shared their experiences and advice - I'm going to just live with the clunk and keep things greased up.

Yup! That's exactly what I thought. I replaced all 4 u-joints this past February at 170k and 20 years. I would still recommend doing that if you can grab the driveshaft and wiggle it. If there is no play, then the 3rd guy was correct.....get a grease gun and pump a few times into each grease port on each u-joint and drive it like you stole it.

One thing about this forum is that it can be as dangerous as a medical diagnosis forum where you become overly paranoid about every creak, clunk and groan. Just take a step back, realize these rigs ARE old, but are also built WAAAAAAY better than any other vehicle on the road. Trust me.......once you stop over-analyzing things, you'll be happier. I was guilty of the exact same thing. Started off ownership without any concerns. Started reading the forums and then started hearing "ghosts". I found a trusted LC mechanic here in Austin and they just looked at me and said: "relax, brother. These rigs are reliable. Change the oil and fluids on schedule, don't bash it over rock obstacles trying to follow 37" tired lifted Jeeps and you'll be fine."

 

[digitalmarker]

Cautiously optimistic update - the OEM axles were installed, and the front diff bushings were replaced. The bushings were toast after 220k+.

I drove around for 20 miles tonight and the clunk is completely gone. The front end feels nice and tight off the line and from rolling.

Not quite able to isolate exactly which of the two was the culprit, but at this point I don’t really care and just hope it doesn’t come back!

 

[itsjustmatt23]

I have a clunk from the rear end when shifting from reverse to drive. The shop says I need a new transfer case which I dont believe, two shops have told me this. My LC has 172k and never abused. The only way for it to not clunk in the rear-end is to shift to neutral for a second then shift into reverse or drive and there will not be any clunk. Please help. Thanks.

 

[guerasfj60]

I have a clunk from the rear end when shifting from reverse to drive. The shop says I need a new transfer case which I dont believe, two shops have told me this. My LC has 172k and never abused. The only way for it to not clunk in the rear-end is to shift to neutral for a second then shift into reverse or drive and there will not be any clunk. Please help. Thanks.

look at post #362. start with lubing u-joints and driveshaft yoke

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

I had the cluck and greased them and it's alot better.Mine hadn't been greased for ages took alot.Start with basics.

 

[abuck99]

I have a clunk from the rear end when shifting from reverse to drive. The shop says I need a new transfer case which I dont believe, two shops have told me this. My LC has 172k and never abused. The only way for it to not clunk in the rear-end is to shift to neutral for a second then shift into reverse or drive and there will not be any clunk. Please help. Thanks.

My bet is not on a new TC- there may be some backlash in the TC but you can amend the clunk significantly with other updates.

Driveline slop is a combination of interrelated components; greasing the slip joint on the prop shaft is only 1 point and helps temporarily, but to eliminate the clunk on a high mile rig involves a thorough process; where you address the rear upper & lower link arm bushings, sway bar bushings, lateral control arm bushes, drive flanges on the front wheels, and possibly diff pucks and diff support bushing. The whole driveline is linked together and you'll lean soon enough as you do one job at a time it progressively improves. Ive done all of the above except the diff pucks since they still look good, and my driveline slop has been virtually eliminated- it drives like a new truck.

 

[Number6]

Ok I've wondering something. The Thunk has cropped up, so I'll be greasing the driveline soon. I don't drive my 100 much. It's been over 3 years and less than 15K miles at this point. I have a company car for the daily grind of commute and working. I'm scanning for a 4runner now, which would mean even less driving (Don't fret- I love and am keeping my LC) My personal vehicle(s) will still get some weekly exercise to make sure some sort of arthritis doesn't set in.

Should I use synthetic grease in this case? Synthetic oil as well?

By the way, It's BS to be charge extra for the regular lube at an oil change. I'm still old enough to remember when the "chassis grease" was part of the deal.