part number for that airbox?
The "Official" 1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Airbox/Intake Mod Thread (4 Viewers)
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Hi Niels, Belgium.
Henrik, a Dane in Sweden.
When I look at your setup and you ask.
1.)
I will wonder if Donaldson didn't think about it when they developed your filter box. What you call restrictions, I call deflectors.
After all, it's harder to produce with that feature, than without.
Be prepared to accept that the box will be worse if you change the deflector.
If you want to change, you could start by mounting some smooth paper with tape (air direction indicator). fit the filter box without filter so that you can see into the box with the engine starting. To see a realistic image, you need some glass at the end of the filter box.
To disturb the air flow as little as possible. You may need to test with the filter installed at the same time.
When you see what your air direction indicator doo. Then you are much more ready to decide.
2.)
I had probably sought to optimize by getting the filter box as far to the side as possible, by moving the electrical components.
a.) Get away from the radiant heat / heat from the exhaust and turbo.
b.) Optimize the bends between the filter box and the turbo by making them very soft and long. I don't think the marginally extra length means anything. There is more to be gained in moving the breathing tube.
3.)
The engine breather gives you installation problems and takes up space, as well as providing swirl resistance in the connection to the turbo. The small edges from the metal tube you used to feed the breather into your intake air provide resistance.
a.) What I wanted is to use that pipe connection on the filter box. It is small but probably plenty big. Preferably with a cache can so as not to contaminate your intake and turbo with oil. Which also provides resistance.
b.) Ore not connect the engine breathing with the intake, at all.
It appears that the hose closest to the turbo is a metal spiral shape reenforcer type !!.
The smoother and the fewer edges, roughness and softer bends the better.
On the other side of the turbo, I also have some opinions based on your pictures.
EGR delit = great. Once that is done I would make a new pipe in stainless steel from the turbo to the intake.
At the same time, I would remove the 'toaster' preheater. I live in Sweden where it can get quite cold. I have never had problems with 1 HD FT without preheating.
When you remove the cross tube and the toaster, you are missing a 'funnel' where the toaster sits. But there is an original Toyota part that fits there. I don't remember where I found that part. Maybe it's the one, I seemed to remember, there is on the intake manifold.
That was my 5 cents.
The easier the engine gets what it wants. The more power - less fuel and or a cold running engine.
I would like to see what you do with the present info. I am in the planing to installing a 5'' snorkel and filter box in a built car. So there is more space.
Right now I'm thinking of going from 1HD FT with 350 Hp injection pump to 6.6 LBZ Duramaks. Since my target is 450 Hp.
(6X6 portal axle = a lot of rolling resistance and 5.7 tons in total.)
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need a flow meter data to see how much air restriction is actually happening between different airboxes/filters/snorkels/prefilters we need this to get scientific
Ps. Addendum to my previous reply to NielsC
After some more thought:
I personally want to use a catch can WITHOUT connecting it to the intake.
If you imagine a really warmed-up engine, gearbox, xfer and differentials and you drive into some icy water.
A very rapid cooling will then occur. Which can easily lead to vacuum in the mentioned components. Which in turn, together with vacuum in the intake, all contribute to the fact that, together with worn sealing rings / packing boxes, can lead to the ingress of water and even worse, particles.
My extreme solution would possibly be a three-way switch to ensure neutral or light vacuum (intakes before the turbo) on the roade. And in situations where rapid cooling can occur and thus water / particles can be drawn in. You have to change the valve to get light pressure from the intake AFTER the turbo. So turbo pressure, or partial turbo charge pressure, in various gears and the engine. In order to thereby prevent - reduce penetration.
An extreme solution for extreme situations.
VOLTOY WALK AROUND. WHAT'S THE IDEA ?
-54 degrees C
An 80 Series lost. Everyone came home.
WHERE THE LAND ENDS.
After some more thought:
I personally want to use a catch can WITHOUT connecting it to the intake.
If you imagine a really warmed-up engine, gearbox, xfer and differentials and you drive into some icy water.
A very rapid cooling will then occur. Which can easily lead to vacuum in the mentioned components. Which in turn, together with vacuum in the intake, all contribute to the fact that, together with worn sealing rings / packing boxes, can lead to the ingress of water and even worse, particles.
My extreme solution would possibly be a three-way switch to ensure neutral or light vacuum (intakes before the turbo) on the roade. And in situations where rapid cooling can occur and thus water / particles can be drawn in. You have to change the valve to get light pressure from the intake AFTER the turbo. So turbo pressure, or partial turbo charge pressure, in various gears and the engine. In order to thereby prevent - reduce penetration.
An extreme solution for extreme situations.
VOLTOY WALK AROUND. WHAT'S THE IDEA ?
-54 degrees C
An 80 Series lost. Everyone came home.
WHERE THE LAND ENDS.
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I'm installing a Radius 4" stainless snorkel and a PDI airbox. I've run into a little snag - the airbox inlet extends into the fender, and the snorkel extends from the fender to the engine bay.
So one will need to be cut down. It looks like there's enough room to cut and weld the airbox inlet and leave the bead and enough room for a hose clamp. It is cast iron, but from my quick internet research it looks like that's weldable.
I don't want to modify the snorkel since it only has two points of contact - A pillar and the connection to airbox - so I want that to be as stable as possible. Thoughts?
So one will need to be cut down. It looks like there's enough room to cut and weld the airbox inlet and leave the bead and enough room for a hose clamp. It is cast iron, but from my quick internet research it looks like that's weldable.
I don't want to modify the snorkel since it only has two points of contact - A pillar and the connection to airbox - so I want that to be as stable as possible. Thoughts?
Is the PDI inlet definitely cast iron?
Would seem to be an odd choice of material for something like that IMHO
Maybe drill a shallow hole in it to see what it is without putting holes through anything
Looks like a crinkled powder coat finish on the whole thing.
Would seem to be an odd choice of material for something like that IMHO
Maybe drill a shallow hole in it to see what it is without putting holes through anything
Looks like a crinkled powder coat finish on the whole thing.
AussieHJCruza
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The PDI is cast aluminium
Ya sorry my brain was on autopilot when I typed that, I was all distracted trying to decide if I’d made a big mistake cutting up the fender. It’s cast aluminum. PDI says cast alloy on its site and I did a magnet check
I think I’ve figured out a solution, going to be working on it today
I think I’ve figured out a solution, going to be working on it today
G082503 from Donaldson is what I used.
But there’s others variants aswell. They’re available with a 90 degree outlet wich is way easier, but I couldn’t source this one locally.
The deflector in the airbox I’m going to leave it there.
You are right in everything you mentioned.
However this routing and piping is the best I could come up with what hoses etc are available and being able to make it physically fit.
Ideally I wanted a flexible hose from airbox to turbo without sharp bends, but I could not find something that looked durable enough.
I don’t know if relocating or deleting the breather would do much difference.
I’ve tought before of routing it inside the chassis rail.
The stock crossover pipe is going to be deleted, and I will make a stainless pipe from manifold to intercooler hose, making the trajectory shorter and eliminating 4 bends.
