part number for that airbox?
The "Official" 1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Airbox/Intake Mod Thread (6 Viewers)
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Hi Niels, Belgium.
Henrik, a Dane in Sweden.
When I look at your setup and you ask.
1.)
I will wonder if Donaldson didn't think about it when they developed your filter box. What you call restrictions, I call deflectors.
After all, it's harder to produce with that feature, than without.
Be prepared to accept that the box will be worse if you change the deflector.
If you want to change, you could start by mounting some smooth paper with tape (air direction indicator). fit the filter box without filter so that you can see into the box with the engine starting. To see a realistic image, you need some glass at the end of the filter box.
To disturb the air flow as little as possible. You may need to test with the filter installed at the same time.
When you see what your air direction indicator doo. Then you are much more ready to decide.
2.)
I had probably sought to optimize by getting the filter box as far to the side as possible, by moving the electrical components.
a.) Get away from the radiant heat / heat from the exhaust and turbo.
b.) Optimize the bends between the filter box and the turbo by making them very soft and long. I don't think the marginally extra length means anything. There is more to be gained in moving the breathing tube.
3.)
The engine breather gives you installation problems and takes up space, as well as providing swirl resistance in the connection to the turbo. The small edges from the metal tube you used to feed the breather into your intake air provide resistance.
a.) What I wanted is to use that pipe connection on the filter box. It is small but probably plenty big. Preferably with a cache can so as not to contaminate your intake and turbo with oil. Which also provides resistance.
b.) Ore not connect the engine breathing with the intake, at all.
It appears that the hose closest to the turbo is a metal spiral shape reenforcer type !!.
The smoother and the fewer edges, roughness and softer bends the better.
On the other side of the turbo, I also have some opinions based on your pictures.
EGR delit = great. Once that is done I would make a new pipe in stainless steel from the turbo to the intake.
At the same time, I would remove the 'toaster' preheater. I live in Sweden where it can get quite cold. I have never had problems with 1 HD FT without preheating.
When you remove the cross tube and the toaster, you are missing a 'funnel' where the toaster sits. But there is an original Toyota part that fits there. I don't remember where I found that part. Maybe it's the one, I seemed to remember, there is on the intake manifold.
That was my 5 cents.
The easier the engine gets what it wants. The more power - less fuel and or a cold running engine.
I would like to see what you do with the present info. I am in the planing to installing a 5'' snorkel and filter box in a built car. So there is more space.
Right now I'm thinking of going from 1HD FT with 350 Hp injection pump to 6.6 LBZ Duramaks. Since my target is 450 Hp.
(6X6 portal axle = a lot of rolling resistance and 5.7 tons in total.)
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need a flow meter data to see how much air restriction is actually happening between different airboxes/filters/snorkels/prefilters we need this to get scientific
Ps. Addendum to my previous reply to NielsC
After some more thought:
I personally want to use a catch can WITHOUT connecting it to the intake.
If you imagine a really warmed-up engine, gearbox, xfer and differentials and you drive into some icy water.
A very rapid cooling will then occur. Which can easily lead to vacuum in the mentioned components. Which in turn, together with vacuum in the intake, all contribute to the fact that, together with worn sealing rings / packing boxes, can lead to the ingress of water and even worse, particles.
My extreme solution would possibly be a three-way switch to ensure neutral or light vacuum (intakes before the turbo) on the roade. And in situations where rapid cooling can occur and thus water / particles can be drawn in. You have to change the valve to get light pressure from the intake AFTER the turbo. So turbo pressure, or partial turbo charge pressure, in various gears and the engine. In order to thereby prevent - reduce penetration.
An extreme solution for extreme situations.
VOLTOY WALK AROUND. WHAT'S THE IDEA ?
-54 degrees C
An 80 Series lost. Everyone came home.
WHERE THE LAND ENDS.
After some more thought:
I personally want to use a catch can WITHOUT connecting it to the intake.
If you imagine a really warmed-up engine, gearbox, xfer and differentials and you drive into some icy water.
A very rapid cooling will then occur. Which can easily lead to vacuum in the mentioned components. Which in turn, together with vacuum in the intake, all contribute to the fact that, together with worn sealing rings / packing boxes, can lead to the ingress of water and even worse, particles.
My extreme solution would possibly be a three-way switch to ensure neutral or light vacuum (intakes before the turbo) on the roade. And in situations where rapid cooling can occur and thus water / particles can be drawn in. You have to change the valve to get light pressure from the intake AFTER the turbo. So turbo pressure, or partial turbo charge pressure, in various gears and the engine. In order to thereby prevent - reduce penetration.
An extreme solution for extreme situations.
VOLTOY WALK AROUND. WHAT'S THE IDEA ?
-54 degrees C
An 80 Series lost. Everyone came home.
WHERE THE LAND ENDS.
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I'm installing a Radius 4" stainless snorkel and a PDI airbox. I've run into a little snag - the airbox inlet extends into the fender, and the snorkel extends from the fender to the engine bay.
So one will need to be cut down. It looks like there's enough room to cut and weld the airbox inlet and leave the bead and enough room for a hose clamp. It is cast iron, but from my quick internet research it looks like that's weldable.
I don't want to modify the snorkel since it only has two points of contact - A pillar and the connection to airbox - so I want that to be as stable as possible. Thoughts?
So one will need to be cut down. It looks like there's enough room to cut and weld the airbox inlet and leave the bead and enough room for a hose clamp. It is cast iron, but from my quick internet research it looks like that's weldable.
I don't want to modify the snorkel since it only has two points of contact - A pillar and the connection to airbox - so I want that to be as stable as possible. Thoughts?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Is the PDI inlet definitely cast iron?
Would seem to be an odd choice of material for something like that IMHO
Maybe drill a shallow hole in it to see what it is without putting holes through anything
Looks like a crinkled powder coat finish on the whole thing.
Would seem to be an odd choice of material for something like that IMHO
Maybe drill a shallow hole in it to see what it is without putting holes through anything
Looks like a crinkled powder coat finish on the whole thing.
AussieHJCruza
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The PDI is cast aluminium
Ya sorry my brain was on autopilot when I typed that, I was all distracted trying to decide if I’d made a big mistake cutting up the fender. It’s cast aluminum. PDI says cast alloy on its site and I did a magnet check
I think I’ve figured out a solution, going to be working on it today
I think I’ve figured out a solution, going to be working on it today
G082503 from Donaldson is what I used.
But there’s others variants aswell. They’re available with a 90 degree outlet wich is way easier, but I couldn’t source this one locally.
The deflector in the airbox I’m going to leave it there.
You are right in everything you mentioned.
However this routing and piping is the best I could come up with what hoses etc are available and being able to make it physically fit.
Ideally I wanted a flexible hose from airbox to turbo without sharp bends, but I could not find something that looked durable enough.
I don’t know if relocating or deleting the breather would do much difference.
I’ve tought before of routing it inside the chassis rail.
The stock crossover pipe is going to be deleted, and I will make a stainless pipe from manifold to intercooler hose, making the trajectory shorter and eliminating 4 bends.
Decided to try and make an air box. Pretty simple design, just a box. Did some cardboard mock ups and used that to pick out a filter. Going with a K&N RG-1002RD, I think this was the biggest filter I could fit that was sub 75.00. Wanted a Donaldson filter but could not find one that would fit. Next step is making it in sheet metal for some more fitting, then final form will be aluminum. Plan on having an acrylic lid & some form of water drain. Feel free to give me any advice!
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Go with basically any another filter than K&N if you care about your engine.
If it sees dirt, even more reason to skip K&N
KNN isn't really known to filter air all that well. they are Good for a race car that gets it's engine rebuilt often, i have no doubt that it will flow more air. paper or AFE pro7 would be my choice.
Good to know, still planning so not a big deal to pick a new filter. Trying to figure out if I can fit a donaldson B085011 filter. Going to order one and see what I can do. Hard to squeeze an 8.5" diameter air filter and leave 2" around it for airflow
AussieHJCruza
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Have you considered a panel filter?
Personally, I’ve been using these filters in various landcruisers and v8 track cars…
AEM 21-2038BF
They seem to be very high quality, they’re not oiled and they flow a lot of air. I also add a filter sock to help keep them cleaner for longer.
AEM 21-2038BF
They seem to be very high quality, they’re not oiled and they flow a lot of air. I also add a filter sock to help keep them cleaner for longer.
I looked into it, originally I was going down the 200 series or Duramax filter path but decided I would rather have a cylinder filter. In general cylinder filters perform better in almost every way. Did see comments about turbulent air but given the turbo is sucking in the air and redirecting the flow, what the engine sees should be the same. At the end of the day pre turbo all that matters is flow rate and good air cleaning.
I had the same thought, it's too big to put an air box in the factory location. you could remove your right side battery and make it work or remove the cruise, you still wouldn't have almost any space around the top and bottom of the box. Only other idea is to run no air box at all and then put the ECC version of the filter (that would keep out the rain) on top of your snorkel seems like this is done commonly in equipment and tractors there is probability a good reason why nobody does this on a truck but i don't know why.
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those of you with Turbos, did you notice any difference in performance upgrading your Airbox? i'm on the stock 1HD one now, thinking about going the PDI route.
also saw Gturbo just came out with one but it uses a 79 series filter vs the PDI which uses a 200 series filter which is a little bigger
also saw Gturbo just came out with one but it uses a 79 series filter vs the PDI which uses a 200 series filter which is a little bigger
I have been experimenting with all of this lately. I have a custom airbox with 4" inlet in the fender that fits a ~2005 Duramax panel filter. I ran that basic set-up for about 40k miles. It worked fine and had what I would call expected turbo lag with the PDI Intercooler.
My biggest problem with it was that I was getting way too much dust into the airbox and clogging the filter extremely frequently (lots of desert driving doesn't help of course). So after a ton of research I picked up a AEM Dryflow filter that is washable (at least I'm not blowing $20/mo on new Fram paper filters). I have yet to really test it, but it did increase flow quite a bit. I now have significantly less boost lag than before.
At the same time I determined that my dust ingress was mainly due to a large triangular hole at the rear of the tire caused by removing the factory steps (which have a plastic piece that covers this). That threw all the dust kicked up by the front tire directly into the fender, where the turbo was sucking. So I blocked that off to reduce the dust but that created a significant flow reduction and I could hear air whistling through the cracks around fender at full boost. Sigh.
Unfortunately I was only a couple of days from leaving again for the next 10mo living in my truck and there's no time (or funds) to order a big stainless snorkel yet. So I pulled the corner marker light to see how much that improved airflow and WOW. Almost no turbo lag through the complete RPM range. I had no idea how much even my 4" intake box with big panel filter was restricting. So I jury rigged an old busted signal housing into an air duct. It's ghetto has hell but the increased airflow is great. I have yet to test it in monsoon conditions but I figure that I can always cover it with painter's tape for periods if I'm experiencing a hurricane or biblical rain.
I cut most of the interior of the marker housing so that i have a lot of air flow into the fender & repositioned the light (switching it to orange LED ). It super Mad Max and very temporary. Next year I will spring for a 4" snorkel. Of course with et Campteq pop top I have to get a front facing snorkel as well, which is even harder to track down/more expensive.
I do also had a motocross style hydrophobic pre filter sock on the end of the airbox intake as a pre filter and safeguard. I'll report back on the AEM Dryflow performance in a couple of weeks when I get some real desert driving in.
But for those curious about their airflow, try pulling your marker light housing and taking a run and see if you can feel any difference.
My biggest problem with it was that I was getting way too much dust into the airbox and clogging the filter extremely frequently (lots of desert driving doesn't help of course). So after a ton of research I picked up a AEM Dryflow filter that is washable (at least I'm not blowing $20/mo on new Fram paper filters). I have yet to really test it, but it did increase flow quite a bit. I now have significantly less boost lag than before.
At the same time I determined that my dust ingress was mainly due to a large triangular hole at the rear of the tire caused by removing the factory steps (which have a plastic piece that covers this). That threw all the dust kicked up by the front tire directly into the fender, where the turbo was sucking. So I blocked that off to reduce the dust but that created a significant flow reduction and I could hear air whistling through the cracks around fender at full boost. Sigh.
Unfortunately I was only a couple of days from leaving again for the next 10mo living in my truck and there's no time (or funds) to order a big stainless snorkel yet. So I pulled the corner marker light to see how much that improved airflow and WOW. Almost no turbo lag through the complete RPM range. I had no idea how much even my 4" intake box with big panel filter was restricting. So I jury rigged an old busted signal housing into an air duct. It's ghetto has hell but the increased airflow is great. I have yet to test it in monsoon conditions but I figure that I can always cover it with painter's tape for periods if I'm experiencing a hurricane or biblical rain.
I cut most of the interior of the marker housing so that i have a lot of air flow into the fender & repositioned the light (switching it to orange LED ). It super Mad Max and very temporary. Next year I will spring for a 4" snorkel. Of course with et Campteq pop top I have to get a front facing snorkel as well, which is even harder to track down/more expensive.
I do also had a motocross style hydrophobic pre filter sock on the end of the airbox intake as a pre filter and safeguard. I'll report back on the AEM Dryflow performance in a couple of weeks when I get some real desert driving in.
But for those curious about their airflow, try pulling your marker light housing and taking a run and see if you can feel any difference.
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