1HD-T serial number 0028026 rescue

[John Young]

We are just buttoning up the 1HZ with conservative safari turbo kit, which turned out very nice.

Then my younger son casually mentioned that he really enjoyed watching the progress on it and was thinking a diesel in his Middle East 80 "Holy Truck" would go very nicely.

I happen to be about to ship a truck to the US and I asked the shipping company about putting an engine in the container and it looks practical. But the truck needs to ship by early October and the only engine I could have ready is the 1HZ with uprated pistons, etc., and the safari turbo, which would leave me short an engine for the Schrodinger project. So I went out and started to look for something suitable for Schrodinger. I found a few.

Including an FTE

But after looking at all the wiring I dismissed the idea.

Then I happened on this...

12 valve 1HD-FT with H series transmission purportedly out of an 80

 

[John Young]

I've known this seller for several years now and bought a fairly large number of items from him. The seller was reluctant to sell to me because he felt the condition likely was to be pretty poor. Turns out he was selling the engine for a friend and it was out of Afghanistan and purportedly had been run on kerosene.

It is relevant to understand that mostly people shopping for diesel 1HZ/1HD engines here are looking to drop it into a vehicle and just run. That is not what I intended to do. Even if the engine looked really nice and looked good inside I was planning to send the injection pump to Bosch for a complete rebuild and I was also going to take apart the head and likely replace valves, change the bottom end bearings, machine if necessary, etc. So unless an engine has catastrophic problems and cannot be rebuilt, getting something that has kerosene-induced problems is not a show stopper.

The price was attractive so I went ahead and bought it today.

I hope to drop the oil pan and skirt tomorrow and see what the crank looks like.

I'm told this came from an 80 and when looking at another engine with the R151 bolted to it, it looks like the gear shift levers are offset a few centimeters.

It also has a broken shifter housing flange.

It does not affect whether the shift lever will lock in, but maybe I can find whatever Toyota used for the 105s that had H instead of R transmissions. If anyone has ideas on this I would love to hare them.

 

[AirheadNut]

I believe the H150/151 was used behind the 1FZ in 100-series, you could use an H152 set up with a 1HD input shaft.

 

[John Young]

After much to much effort we did manage to separate the transmission from the motor

And the other engine is done!

 

[John Young]

So today we broke down the 1HD-T.

I have never seen such thick, dirty oil. I think it could be used to pave roads.

And they obviously were not using Mr. Toyoda's expensive coolant:

In fact I think they were using a tap-water-gravel slurry instead.

Maybe they had the coolant freeze and knock out the front freeze plug. Whatever happened it now had some kind of plastic plug in there with lots of RTV. My bet is that it was the top of a rattle can.

I don't think it is supposed to be like this:

 

[John Young]

There is no EGR valve per se on this engine but I guess the valve cover vent tube put out enough blow-by to do this:

Then the big camshaft reveal:

We think we can re-use the camshaft. The machine shop will tell us for sure.

Finally the moment of truth:

 

[John Young]

Did not look too terrible at first blush:

I thought that black ring at the top was just grunge. It was not. But I will get to that.

The front of the crank had been beat on pretty good:

Oh and I think I will be needing a new oil pan:

The baffle was not in the 1HZ pan:

Mmmmm.... fulsome body with hints of underdone grits!

 

[John Young]

On to the crank!

Apologies for the quality of the photos. By this time I, and my phone, were covered with Afghani 1HD-T effluvia.

"Artist" rendering of an older armature mechanic documenting the condition of an Afghani 1HD-T engine, its surfaces, and now his surfaces and everything around having darkened by Afghani engine effluvia — oil, soot, and grime that have seeped and settled through decades of hard use. (For those of you that went to Los Angles Public Schools and have not yet recovered, 'Effluvia', from the Latin effluvium meaning ‘a flowing out,’ first entered English in the 1600s to describe invisible vapors, odors, or noxious emanations. In early medical writing, effluvia were thought to be the foul exhalations from decaying matter or diseased bodies that spread sickness — a concept tied to the old ‘miasma theory’ of disease. Over time, the meaning broadened beyond illness to encompass any kind of outflow, discharge, or residue, whether from living beings, buildings, or machines. In this mechanical setting, effluvia refers to the oily films, soot, and leaked residues that mark the engine’s long service.)

Pistons don't look too bad, all things considered.

 

[John Young]

We really enjoyed the kits from Engine Australia on the last engine, so I got up in the middle of the night and called my new friend Rob about the Afghani 1HD-T. He said that the valves and valve guides in their standard package was the equivalent of OEM, not improved or 'racing' so I told him we would source valves and valve guides particularly since the head is already in the machine shop.

The next question was identifying the pistons as this was a transition period. I had sent him photos and he thought they were from the earlier iteration. ChatGPT looked at the photos and also thought it was from the earlier period. To be really sure, we have to measure the opening in the crown. Also ChatGPT offered:

(I am deliberately trying to irritate the Ancient Swede by referring to, and relying on, AI advice.)

On the strength of this I told Rob to go ahead and finalize the order and shipping weight for the early style piston. I feel lucky.

Also Rob tells me that the head gasket is the same for this 1HD-T and the 1HZ, so if we can re-use the one we had to take off the other day to switch to a Grade 7 for piston clearnace, we can use it. Alternatively we can get another gasket here in Dubai. So I told him to remove that item from the order. With a little luck I will place the order in an hour or so so they can DHL out ASAP. Can't say enough nice things about Engine Australia. Their kits even come with very nice mints!

 

[John Young]

So I'm behind as usual on these things. And it has been over a month on this old engine. Let me bring you up to speed.

Having had a bellyfull of really messy things to do I decided to do something fun and paint the crossover for this engine which had been cleaned and then sprayed with the "2000 degree ceramic paint" from Rustoleum, which I like pretty well.

But it still needed a little pizzaz

Turned out nice. Then I put a couple of coats of high temp clearcoat on it and called it done.

 

[John Young]

A few days earlier I had taken the engine over to the machine shop I like to use.

Reports were starting to come in. Not good in interesting areas. The cam lobes were fine but the bearing surfaces were just trashed.

I could easily get a new 1HZ camshaft for a good price but a 1HD-T, not so easy.

From reading on here it seemed that the differences were truly minor. These are aftermarket datasheets

So I decided to just get what I could get. That is about 260 USD BTW.

And I then delivered to Waseem at SuperPerformance (the machine shop).

 

[John Young]

This is me leaving off the engine at the Super Performance machine shop, BTW.

I brought it over in Mister Blue the 105, which also has a 1HD-T in it.

Sorry about the out of sequence, but we found a lot of unpleasant things with this engine.

I think I mentioned it came with a transmission. We have not gotten into that yet.

 

[TheBussman]

Why not put the later style "improved" pistons in? You only need to run a thinner injector sealing washer to make them work. Good call on the 1hz cam.

 

[John Young]

Why not put the later style "improved" pistons in? You only need to run a thinner injector sealing washer to make them work. Good call on the 1hz cam.

You certainly have a point Bussman. This was my first 1HD-T and I'm still very much in a learning mode. I decided to try to stay as original as possible. I called up Engines Australia and talked at some length with one of their technical sales guys and he helped me identify that this was an early engine and also explained the spray pattern. I could have changed both the pistons but also at that moment I did not know that the current set of injectors were trashed beyond rebuilding. (I should have looked more closely at them and I probably could have seen for myself that they could have been returned to service, but I didn't.) Also relevant was the fact that I was racing to try to get to assembly before I headed to the US for the holidays so I was making decisions on a compressed timetable. If I have to do it again I will be using the later pistons and later injectors.

The good news is that I have decided that the 1HD-T is the sweet spot for me in particular. I've been playing with a 1HD-FT and the extra complexity just does not seem worth the benefit given how and what I drive. I need one more engine for one last project and this time I am experimenting with buying a salvage engine off of Ali Baba rather than the local scrappers. The cost is not too different and the condition seems much better, and at least they say that the engines have pretty low mileage on them. Here are a couple I have been looking at, for example:

Because this is such an experiment I've also decided to try Chinese suppliers to try and save a bit. Jumping ahead a bit, I have to replace the pump, the injectors and the glow plugs. Here's a shot of most of the old injectors:

The OEM pumps for a 1HD-FT are stupid expensive and I figured, what the hell, I will try one of the Chinese duplicates. Just arrived a few days ago--only took about 10 days from date of order, BTW. Here's what it looks like:

Not a Denso but from external appearances the quality of the castings and machining is quite high. I will be looking forward to seeing how it runs.

And the injectors came from the same supplier in the shipment:

I have no idea whether they are actually Denso, but again at least from external appearances the look to be high quality. Time will tell.

 

[John Young]

A lot has been going on with this project, and I've certainly had some ups and downs. I got the block back first and spent some more time cleaning and then painting.

It is about as good as we can make it. The cylinders are 1mm oversized (the limit) and even after lots and lots of cleaning the water channels are not as nice as I would like, but the thing is coming back together.

In fact today the crank and the pistons went in!

I had some real misadventures with the head but I will save that for another post.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Do you have a block drain rear of the oil cooler cover? Or are you planning to drill/tap the oil cooler cover at the boss?

 

[John Young]

Do you have a block drain rear of the oil cooler cover? Or are you planning to drill/tap the oil cooler cover at the boss?

That is a good question. We did replace the oil cooler and oil cooler cover because they were very, very far gone. I presume we got the right one. If you have some more info or a photo or two, that would be great. We are just about at that point today. Just finished painting up the intake manifold for installation.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The oil cooler you have assumes you have a block drain in the block just rear of the oil cooler. This was a change in later year 1HD blocks. Earlier years had the drain as part of the oil cooler. Verify if you have a drain the block as shown below.

Option 1: 15721-17010
Drain location is tapped and ACSD port not present.
Will not accept the oil filter "catch" tray

Option 2: 15721-17012 (what you have)
You need to drill/tap the circled location for a block drain (assuming you have no block drain in the block)
Will accept the oil filter "catch" tray.

 

[John Young]

Hmmm..... Well here are a couple of photos I took today.

I still have the old cover, or did until today. I will check if it is still around.

What is the purpose of this drain and line? I'm a little unclear about that. I do appreciate you reaching out with this info and query.

 

[John Young]

Here is another photo from earlier in the process: