The official 1HDT Intercooler thread (1 Viewer)

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Nice top mount! I want to do something similar.

They don't make that kit anymore plus it won't work with my third battery setup.
 
I originally wanted to go this route.... but didn't have the time to DIY and so went with the Safari. Awesome to hear you're making this available. Not bad for a top mount:

Thanks. In 1 hour, it can transform any DT into an absolute monster...

:D
 
Hey guys found this Celica intercooler for a CT26 turbo. You think this'll bolt right on to the 1HDT's CT26? Will it work? Thanks. I'm just looking for a budget meal way to IC my engine hehe

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What do you do with the center support in front grill area if you fit a front mount cooler in a 80 series and would a 4 inch thick one be too much of s squeeze or will a 3 inch thick one do the job??
 
Some more pics.

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pretty nice bracket you have there to support your IC .. what I'm not sure if you you secure your silicon hose from the cut cross over pipe .. since it's not round.
 
Yeah, how does that seal with the rectangular cross section and the bumped up surface on the top? Even with squishy silicone, I can't imagine the clamp making a seal. Did you custom shape the clamp too?

No fan? Hood scoop?
 
I just put a hose clamp on there and it seems to work. I didn't have time to do the scoop and fan. But it's coming.
 
Hey guys,

Finally have an addition to the thread!

Just installed my intercooler! Got the intercooler off e-bay and the second manifold off a fellow cruiser I traded some left over parts from the conversion for.

I Modified the manifold For a simple top mount. I now i should have made a bigger opening to the intake but Its larger than the original and I wanted as simple as possible.

In the process of a scoop so I am not expecting great gains at this point but hopefully after this weekend Ill have the scoop done and the hole for more air flow cut.

MY QUESTION IS??????


I have no brakes now? Checked all the Vac lines and everything as before, except the placement on the intake?

The only thing to change is the intercooler? Which in my case is just a simple cooled crossover?

Am I missing something? Got me wondering how a pressurized tube creates vacuum? There is defiantly positive pressure coming into the Vacuum line from the intercooler, Turbo boost at 14psi.

Is it just a wrong placement?

Hope someone is home to chime in as I am a bit stumped.

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Your brake booster should be connected to your vacuum tank, not the intake manifold.
 
Ok the only change I made was the intercooler?

The original line that came off the crossover tube was just moved to the intercooler side tank?

you can just see it in the pics.

The line goes from the intercooler to the injection pump and then the vacuum can eventually
 
Ok the only change I made was the intercooler?

The original line that came off the crossover tube was just moved to the intercooler side tank?

you can just see it in the pics.

The line goes from the intercooler to the injection pump and then the vacuum can eventually

You can't have ANY line that requires vacuum attached to the intake system on the motor side of the turbo.... As soon as you make boost that line will see pressure not vacuum, = no brakes...
 
I understand it makes perfect sense to me as well but there is a vaccum line attached to the original crossover and it is listed in the FSM as well. How much vacuum should the pump be making? i disconnected from the intercooler and connected a gauge and I'M getting 5-6.5 in. hg.

Could it just be my vacuum pump quit and just so happened at the same time as install of the intercooler?

I can't find anywhere about how much vacuum is needed in my books.

Cheers
 
My truck is 12km away, so I can't take a look at it. But I believe the "vacuum" hose connected to the crossover pipe goes to the boost compensator on the top of the injection pump. This is what moves the fuel rod when boost increases. The brake booster should not be connected here.

In this photo you can see the boost compensator vacuum hose routed under the intake and up to the crossover pipe:


Here's another photo that better shows the hose connected to the crossover pipe. It then goes over to the pressure switches that control the turbo dash lights. You can also see the larger hoses that become hard lines along the top of the firewall behind the water valve routing from the vacuum tank (not shown) on the right (US driver's side) to the brake booster and clutch booster on the left (US passenger side). This is obviously a RHD.


This last photo shows the vacuum tank:


Note: All these photos are of my Cruiser, taken over the years.
 
this was my first attempt .. but my lacking of alum welding skills makes me turn in another direction my IC setup .. but yours looks pretty nice ..
 
top mount

this was my first attempt .. but my lacking of alum welding skills makes me turn in another direction my IC setup .. but yours looks pretty nice ..

Actually I took my inspiration from your setup I seen here! I liked how simple it was. I'm in the process of making a hood scoop and adding a fan.

So far my temps are down a fair bit, But since I still don't have brakes for some reason I haven't been able to test it full yet:bang::bang:
 
your vac as others said previously should come from your vac pump ( in front of your PS pump on your block since both are gear driven ) to your reservoir and then to your booster ..
 
Thought Id throw this pic up in this thread aswell.


And some feed back,

"I'm getting solid results from this intercooler.
Pushing 35psi through it, I can see air temps coming out of the turbo in excess of 110°C but have never seen the post IC temps hit 40°C. On the highway at 100km/h with a load of camping gear, fuel, water etc, at an ambient of 24°, the post IC temps sit between 28 and 32° with pre IC temps fluctuating between 70 and 80°.

After a long hard run up Cunninghams gap, the IC water temps rose to 39°, but about 2km later had settled back to below 30.
I should add that I do not have the IC radiator thermo's running all the time. I have a control circuit which switches them on at 30° and off again at 27°(I can override this), so perhaps running constantly would yield even better results."
 

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