The official 1HDT Intercooler thread (3 Viewers)

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thanks for the links for the heat shielding, when I get a new fan I will see if its possible to shield it somehow, perhaps a piece on the rocker cover, or on the base of the fan motor. I already have replaced the wiring with 50amp and a 40amp relay, and the fan is supposed to only draw 7amp. Also fitted a turbo timer to let it idle down to min temp before shutting down. I will move the relay to a cooler spot behind the headlights.
 
I think you need to introduce some type of thermal cut in/out whether it be by EGT, IC inlet temp, IC outlet temp or boost.
 
Perhaps by pressure (boost):

Adjustable pressure switches NO/NC

Or temp if there is a probe with a switch suitable?

My digital pyro which is an ENG-TEK can switch a relay via a pre set temp. May work but in your instance of long flat roads with high ambient temps possibly not.
 
David60series said:
I think you need to introduce some type of thermal cut in/out whether it be by EGT, IC inlet temp, IC outlet temp or boost.
Click to expand...

what I would like to introduce is one of the PWR front mounts with a trans cooler kit, and have no electric fan issues at all :) looking at there pipe work Im not sure they would fit around my moonlight fabrications air box? I may call past there workshop and ask a few questions. Putting thermal or pressure switches may do something, but its more electrics and I was under the impression the spal has a 100% duty cycle ?
 
The big front mount would be awesome but I'm in the same boat with lots of additional gear floating about. How do the factory VDJs manage this scenario with the top mount?

I'm def no expert, but I just can't see a fan with such a small motor flowing high cfm having a 100% duty cycle. Good radiator thermo fans crap out if run 100%.
 
David60series said:
Perhaps by pressure (boost):

Adjustable pressure switches NO/NC

Or temp if there is a probe with a switch suitable?

My digital pyro which is an ENG-TEK can switch a relay via a pre set temp. May work but in your instance of long flat roads with high ambient temps possibly not.
Click to expand...

thanks for that link David, mite order one, did you use the 4psi or 10psi ?
 
Sorry I have not tried it (no IC yet); just an idea. I've got a fair bit of stuff through that instrument shop though and they are good for advice in that context. I imagine there is bugger all heat at 4psi so IC isn't doing much and the fan could have a rest? That way it won't mess with your AFRs? Also when you back off on the highway, or pass a town or pull up she'll have a rest too.
 
SeaJay said:
thanks for that link David, mite order one, did you use the 4psi or 10psi ?
Click to expand...

What PSI are you pushing as you go down the highway? If you see 8psi at 110km/h for example, the 4psi switch would see the fan running 100% of the time and it's not really needed in that situation, the 10psi switch would make more sense.

On my truck, I see 10psi at 100km/h, any faster and the boost goes up from there, 120km/h is about 16psi. I'm guessing the 10psi switch is still lower than what you'd ideally want. If it was me, and adding an intercooler didn't change my boost level at highway speeds, I'd probably try and find a 15psi switch so the fan ran at anything above that.
 
The ACL stuff works better with a bit of an air gap between it and the heat source. Say 10-15mm clear of the rocker cover.

I reckon for a top mount, shield the rocker cover, plus add another heat shield to the standard exhaust manifold heat shield, but with a 20mm gap

You can shape it quite a bit
 
SeaJay said:
thanks for that link David, mite order one, did you use the 4psi or 10psi ?
Click to expand...

I think you'd get a better outcome using a temperature switch for the fan, reading intake air temps after the turbo, before the intercooler. Set it to run if intake charge air temp exceeds something like 60°C.

Someone like @Dougal or @gerg could probably suggest a better temp.
Efficiency, and air density drop dramatically as intake temp rises.
Charge air temp is not necessarily directly related to boost pressure. Ambient air temp and compressor efficiency play a part too
 
thanks David and Ian, I will ask the spal dealer if its better to run the fan on some sort of switch or just all the time, I did notice with the newer brushless fans they have introduced a soft start function, so having them switch off and on rapidly with a pressure switch may be an issue. If they say they have a 100% duty cycle for the fan I have (VA-11AP8/C-57A) then leaving it running may be better. Mudgudgeon there is only about 20mm between the base of the fan and the rocker cover, I think I also need to find what wire is still live once the ignition is swiched off and the engine is idling on the timer prior to shutdown, and use that wire as the fan relay trigger, so that the fan motor gets to cool off and not cook in the heat between the IC and rocker cover. I should have bought a spare fan before I came up here as it had started to sound like it wasnt running as hard after the 10k trip thru the Gibb, Mitchel Falls and to the border and back thru the Bungle Bungles, hot and dusty trip and didnt have the turbo timer
 
mudgudgeon said:
I think you'd get a better outcome using a temperature switch for the fan, reading intake air temps after the turbo, before the intercooler. Set it to run if intake charge air temp exceeds something like 60°C.

Someone like @Dougal or @gerg could probably suggest a better temp.
Efficiency, and air density drop dramatically as intake temp rises.
Charge air temp is not necessarily directly related to boost pressure. Ambient air temp and compressor efficiency play a part too
Click to expand...

it prob wouldnt cycle off and on as often with a temp switch, I am trying to download the specs showing opperating and storage temps for this fan
 
The link I sent has adjustable pressure switches either side of the preset.

The air intake temp switch would be worth examining too, or as I mentioned the pyro if it has the relay trigger function.
 
Id prefer temp switch over pressure as you can get low flow over the core at low speed and high temp that isnt directly related to pressure. You also dont want your fan on with high boost if your at highway speeds and you have enough flow over the core and the post cooler temp is fine. With a temp switch post cooler you can make it more efficient in my opinion. what would be a good post temp switch would take some math and a bit of trial and error I think.
That being said, I recomend a FMIC.
 
just out of interest, anyone running a front mount similar to the PDI unit in an 80 series auto in a very hot climate 113F (45c) ? if so how has having it in front of the radiator affected engine temps?
 
I decided to change to the PDI front mount, I picked one up today from Brian here in Perth, I think it will work better for long trips in high ambient temperatures, I'll be towing a large tandem axle trailer next trip and don't want more fan problems
 
Would love to hear how the PDI unit works out. Let us know about the transmission temps too. I'm not pulling a tandem axle trailer, however our loaded up Kamper SportsRV definitelily makes me give the lockup switch a wotk out.
 
FJRanger said:
Would love to hear how the PDI unit works out. Let us know about the transmission temps too. I'm not pulling a tandem axle trailer, however our loaded up Kamper SportsRV definitelily makes me give the lockup switch a wotk out.
Click to expand...

will do, it wont be for 3 or 4 weeks tho, but it will be hotter then when I go up there. I have a lock up switch on the converter and factory cooler at the moment. Last trip even when the coolant temp hit 100c when the outside temp was over 44c and air-con running the trans temp never got over 80c but I wasn't towing. The supplied PDI trans cooler looks good, and Brian says its Canadian made, with the best BTU rating for the size he could fit in front of the IC, time will tell...
 
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