I noticed on a run down from coffs harbor this morning I was pulling up a hill at 60kmh 400c preturbo flicked my fan on and it dropped 60c on my top mount. It's the cross country ultimate intercooler.
The official 1HDT Intercooler thread
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So
this just showed up, can't wait to install it!
I have things now as well. It's going to take me a while to get to it.
Good idea to swap out those Safari hose clamps for constant torque clamps, at least on the IC lower elbow. Sucks when they let loose.... sounds like your engine or turbo blew which can stop your heart for a second! Good luck figuring out where to put the horns and tranny cooler
That's actually something that turned me off of most of the air/air setups. I really like my big trans cooler.Good idea to swap out those Safari hose clamps for constant torque clamps, at least on the IC lower elbow. Sucks when they let loose.... sounds like your engine or turbo blew which can stop your heart for a second! Good luck figuring out where to put the horns and tranny cooler
There are ways around it though, the extruded aluminium coolers are fairly effective. Or you could mount a stacked plate cooler out of direct airflow and use a fan.
while changing the clamps I'd also swap any cast iron fitting with brass. Having worked with a lot of water pumps and plumbing for unique applications the rust will cause long term damage and line everything you have with rust.
You cant physically fit t-bolt clamps in a few spots on the Safari 
in RHD models the hose out of the turbo and under the body sits hard up against the steering box... would be ok on a LHD. The hoses onto the core itself, from memory there isnt enough room to fit a T-bolt clamp either... just not enough room between the bulge on the spigot and the side of the core. I am using a mix of constant torque, t-bolt and double jubilee clamps on mine with success at 25psi.
Horn is easy, remove one and just roll with a single one. Swap your tranny cooler for a thinner full width model; space forward the mounting frame for the IC core as much as possible and leave a 5mm gap between the cores
Hamo00 has some good photos of how he did his.
in RHD models the hose out of the turbo and under the body sits hard up against the steering box... would be ok on a LHD. The hoses onto the core itself, from memory there isnt enough room to fit a T-bolt clamp either... just not enough room between the bulge on the spigot and the side of the core. I am using a mix of constant torque, t-bolt and double jubilee clamps on mine with success at 25psi.Horn is easy, remove one and just roll with a single one. Swap your tranny cooler for a thinner full width model; space forward the mounting frame for the IC core as much as possible and leave a 5mm gap between the cores
Hamo00 has some good photos of how he did his.
AussieHJCruza
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
"moonlight fabrication" in Perth, Australia do a good one as well, Google images will bring up some pics.
Hey guys,
Just wondering if anyone has had any problem with electrolysis on the air to water systems. The first barrel on my Denco system leaked. It was slow so no engine damage. I replaced the barell with a PWR one and I've fitted an anode that I got from a marine workshop. It goes into the air bleed plug of the radiator. I also put an air bleed plug on the top of the new barrel to make sure I could get all the air out of the system.
But last time I had the 2nd barrel out to do some other work I noticed there was glycol on the inside of it again. I didn't use compressed air to check for a leak but it stands to reason there is another one there some place. The barrel are damned expensive so I'm really interested on finding a solution to this issue.
The guy I spoke to was the one that told me I had electrolysis eating away the barrel some place. They wanted $1000 to send me a new one. I got one from PWR for $666. Still way too much for something that might not last.
Any help appreciated.
D.T
Just wondering if anyone has had any problem with electrolysis on the air to water systems. The first barrel on my Denco system leaked. It was slow so no engine damage. I replaced the barell with a PWR one and I've fitted an anode that I got from a marine workshop. It goes into the air bleed plug of the radiator. I also put an air bleed plug on the top of the new barrel to make sure I could get all the air out of the system.
But last time I had the 2nd barrel out to do some other work I noticed there was glycol on the inside of it again. I didn't use compressed air to check for a leak but it stands to reason there is another one there some place. The barrel are damned expensive so I'm really interested on finding a solution to this issue.
The guy I spoke to was the one that told me I had electrolysis eating away the barrel some place. They wanted $1000 to send me a new one. I got one from PWR for $666. Still way too much for something that might not last.
Any help appreciated.
D.T
This is exactly why a2a is safer in the event you have a core leak and hydro your engine
Thanks for pointing out the obvious, but how about a real answer to the question. As we all know there are reasons why the performance of A2W is better over A2A and vice versa at different driving points. Its not an argument of which is better, its a question of how to resolve the inherent issues of a particular system. A think tank of solutions if you prefer that terminology and not a pissing contest.
sailor
Jackass of all trades
How many dissimilar metals are in your system? If you are using pencil anodes should you not make sure all components have same potential- ie- they are all grounded together as efficiently as possible? is your coolant compatible? could you have a stray current making a circuit through the W2A system? Could the pump have an electrical leak?
