The official 1HDT Intercooler thread (2 Viewers)

[ham00]

A think tank of solutions if you prefer that terminology and not a pissing contest.

Not many pissing contests here Mr Deep. Everyones different & likes different set ups. Life would be boring if we all like the same thing.

As you would notice, Most of us have supplied photos of various set ups with out the need for a pissing contest.

If you would like a serious answer for your electrolysis problem, Post up some pics of what you've got. (Intercooler setup)

The guy I spoke to was the one that told me I had electrolysis eating away the barrel some place.

D.T

Or go back to the guy who diagnosed the problem.

Hamo.

 

[Rob1983]

Hey guys,
Just wondering if anyone has had any problem with electrolysis on the air to water systems. The first barrel on my Denco system leaked. It was slow so no engine damage. I replaced the barell with a PWR one and I've fitted an anode that I got from a marine workshop. It goes into the air bleed plug of the radiator. I also put an air bleed plug on the top of the new barrel to make sure I could get all the air out of the system.

But last time I had the 2nd barrel out to do some other work I noticed there was glycol on the inside of it again. I didn't use compressed air to check for a leak but it stands to reason there is another one there some place. The barrel are damned expensive so I'm really interested on finding a solution to this issue.

The guy I spoke to was the one that told me I had electrolysis eating away the barrel some place. They wanted $1000 to send me a new one. I got one from PWR for $666. Still way too much for something that might not last.

Any help appreciated.

D.T

Don't use glycol. I use water wetter, which is non reactive

 

[DeepThought65]

Denco A2W

• DeepThought65
• Jan 19, 2016

I have done the analogue multi-meter test and I can't find anything out of the ordinary. The system is all aluminium with some brass plugs. Nothing else comes into contact with the system that I can tell. The pump is a Bosch magnetic drive type, so all plastic and no electrical contact with the coolant. Yes the coolant is the type recommended by the manufacturer of the A2W system.

Good point on the stray current though I might check that again on the weekend just to be sure. Now the grounding issue is interesting, you're saying that they should be earthed to the body not isolated by the silicon or rubber hoses ?

And re: "the pissing contest", I'm not trying to start an argument I'm just hoping to get some good input and not get into a one is better than the other thing. Cause I'm happy with the performance just has this issue I want to sort out.

As for the guy that told me it was electrolysis, he didn't really diagnose it and he's about 2000km away so I'm not going to go to see him. He's just the rep at the company that makes the kits. I told him the problem and he said "electrolysis, happens all the time". And before you all say take it back, I didn't find the problem till after the warranty period had expired. So I need to get the problem sorted.

Pic of the setup, I'll get some more up soon.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If the rep said " happens all the time", hit them up for solutions. Passing it off as "happens all the time" is a cop out .
You could probably put pressure on them to do more regardless of warranty. Tell them the product is not fit for its intended purpose (safely intercooling your engine for the reasonable life expectancy of the vehicle) if it fails prematurely and hydraulics your engine, it's not fit for its purpose.

 

[Rob1983]

I've run a full pwr setup in my hilux for over 5 years, and despite the glycol thing, have run it with no issues. both w2a are full alloy rads, tanks, cores etc

 

[DeepThought65]

If the rep said " happens all the time", hit them up for solutions. Passing it off as "happens all the time" is a cop out .

I completely agree. But he was referring to the use of aluminium with cast iron. I admit I was a little naive about the whole electrolysis thing in engines until this problem came up. Going back to them now after so long I think will be like flogging a dead horse. I'd get nowhere. But I understand the point and if I known more about it sooner then I'd have pursued it harder. Still the problem may remain, I want to find out if it is and rectify it.

 

[Neil826]

Isn't the barrel and radiator supposed to be insulated from ground so you not creating a return path, like a battery with the coolant as a electrolyte?

 

[DeepThought65]

Isn't the barrel and radiator supposed to be insulated from ground so you not creating a return path, like a battery with the coolant as a electrolyte?

That's what I understood had to be done. The barrel is supported on the flexible connections and there are little rubber isolators for mounting the radiator to the frame as well.

 

[arnott1t]

Ok here is the trouble. I'm swapping an HDT into my troopy and am wanting an intercooler bad…. I'll have a G turbo grunter on it, 4" snorkel with big air cleaner (donaldson pro core), 3" mandrel exhaust with no muffler. I'll tune the pump once its back on the road again. So for intercooler options I think I have 2:

1. Top mount, Run the typical top mount with a 12" spal fan and as big of a hood scoop as I can muster. I'd maybe do the chinese kit or ore likely something a little more custom and slightly larger of a core. Need engine back in the truck to measure it all up though. This would let me continue to run the mechanical fan on the radiator.

2. Front Mount, Move the rad back, switch to an electric main cooling fan. Plumbing is a little more complex but not terribly so. Front mount has its know advantages. No hood scoop but become reliant on the electric fan. Maybe thats better. This truck is in northern Alberta most of the time so Electric could be better? I'd run big Spal, or the taurus/volvo options that people seem to rave about.

So which is it…..

Either way I add an electric fan but with option 2 I become dependant on it.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Have a chat to Cross Country, they'll set you up with something that works. They're not the cheapest but the results speak for themselves...
600mm x 400mm x 76mm core with an 800 cfm SPAL underneath

 

[DeepThought65]

I tested the barrel for stray currents both running and stopped and nada, maybe I have fixed the problem. I'm damned if I know where the coolant is getting out though.

I do like the look of that Cross Country unit though.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I would never switch to an electrical fan.
With the top mount go with a puller fan and a huge scoop which may be a challenge finding one to suit the look of your truck. Catch the most air possible.

 

[Neil826]

2. Front Mount, Move the rad back, switch to an electric main cooling fan. Plumbing is a little more complex but not terribly so. Front mount has its know advantages. No hood scoop but become reliant on the electric fan. Maybe thats better. This truck is in northern Alberta most of the time so Electric could be better? I'd run big Spal, or the taurus/volvo options that people seem to rave about.

So which is it…..

Either way I add an electric fan but with option 2 I become dependant on it.

Why must you space the radiator back, can't you trim the grill?

 

[CycloSteve]

Midway through plumbing my Safari Intercooler. Taken more effort and time than expected as I am having to modify my Slee Shortbus, and also ensure that there is no interference with the cables to the winch. Definitely had to "grind" more off of the inner fender well than the template indicated. Definitely a good kit, and is solid all around...that cooler weighs a ton. Still need to cut part of the bumper to clear the feed pipe. Nothing like having to cut through 3/8" steel to make your head and hands buzz.

 

[Rob1983]

Midway through plumbing my Safari Intercooler. Taken more effort and time than expected as I am having to modify my Slee Shortbus, and also ensure that there is no interference with the cables to the winch. Definitely had to "grind" more off of the inner fender well than the template indicated. Definitely a good kit, and is solid all around...that cooler weighs a ton. Still need to cut part of the bumper to clear the feed pipe. Nothing like having to cut through 3/8" steel to make your head and hands buzz.

I wouldn't be very happy about having to hack up the front bar

 

[CycloSteve]

I wouldn't be very happy about having to hack up the front bar

More of a PITA due to the thickness of the metal, and is not an actual structural issue. It will not be visible whatsoever, since it is behind the bar. Will dive in tonight after work and post a few pics.

 

[CycloSteve]

1.25" Holesaw cut plus 3.5" of angle-grinding and a bit of hand filing, and there is now plenty of room for the plumbing. Lots of sparks! Just need to do a bit of prep and paint this weekend. Pretty happy with the results, and cannot see this weakening the bumper in the least.

 

[Shag55]

Is there a source for the 1HDT here in the states?

 

[wardharris]

Is there a source for the 1HDT here in the states?

Call / PM Georg Esterer at Valley Hybrids - he's the man and just down the road @orangefj45

 

[absalom]

What sort of results (EGT temperature drop in F) can I expect to see with a typical FMIC? I realize there are several variables, so I'm just looking for a ballpark. Let's say I'm at 1200 F before an intercooler install, what sort of temps could I expect to see under the same conditions with an IC?