Builds The Oddball 80 - Middle East GX Renovation (3 Viewers)

[wngrog]

When you say “clunk”, when does the clunk happen? Over terrain? Normal driving on a pavement?

When I roll back and slam the brakes.

Then if I roll forward it does it again.

Almost feels like there is a heavy socket rolling in a small space.

 

[80t0ylc]

When I roll back and slam the brakes.

Then if I roll forward it does it again.

Almost feels like there is a heavy socket rolling in a small space.

That could be in the drive train. Possibly a u-joint. Even a healthy drivetrain can have some clunk to it, doing the things you mentioned.

 

[wngrog]

That could be in the drive train. Possibly a u-joint. Even a healthy drivetrain can have some clunk to it, doing the things you mentioned.

I just rebuilt the driveshaft because I thought that was it too.

I’ll find it. Irritating

 

[duece71]

I just rebuilt the driveshaft because I thought that was it too.

I’ll find it. Irritating

I think I have that “clunk”, sometimes it’s when shifting from reverse into drive for instance. Sometimes it’s at slower speed when letting off the gas pedal and then accelerating. Maybe a U joint?

 

[wngrog]

Mine is a manual. Joints are new. Just installed trying to chase the noise.

Your issue is likely you need to add grease to the slip on the rear shaft. Pretty common clunk on an auto 80/100 series.

 

[SNLC]

Drive flanges.

Cheers

 

[wngrog]

Drive flanges.

Cheers

Mine does not have any but yea. Thats super common on 80/100 too for a clunk.

 

[BMThiker]

When I roll back and slam the brakes.

Then if I roll forward it does it again.

Almost feels like there is a heavy socket rolling in a small space.

The holes in the control arm brackets are oblong now. Weld a 10.9 washer to each side of the brackets.

 

[wngrog]

The holes in the control arm brackets are oblong now. Weld a 10.9 washer to each side of the brackets.

I just added the lower control arms and those holes were very round. Only know that because the one old one was bent and I had to monkey with the bolts a lot to get it all back in line

I think I have to get myself some upper control arm bushings next.

 

[cahill]

I had a clunk once when an upper brake caliper mounting bolt had fallen out. The caliper would pivot on the one remaining bolt and clunk when I would back up. I doubt that is your problem but it is an easy check.

 

[wngrog]

I had a clunk once when an upper brake caliper mounting bolt had fallen out. The caliper would pivot on the one remaining bolt and clunk when I would back up. I doubt that is your problem but it is an easy check.

This is a turd Saudi truck with rear drums.

I need to crack them open to make sure all is well but the brakes and Ebrake feel great.

 

[GeoRoss]

I had a clunk/clang from the rear when I initially lifted. Ended up being the sway bar binding up.

 

[wngrog]

I had a clunk/clang from the rear when I initially lifted. Ended up being the sway bar binding up.

I put new rubbers on mine when I lifted but unhooking that is easy. Good idea.

 

[wngrog]

Operation find that damn clunk has begun.

All new OEM bushings going in. I tried the drill out rubber and cut bushing out method and that sucked so it all went in the press afterwards and went pretty smooth. I need to build up my stash of stuff to press onto. The 54mm socket works great for the upper control arms but the panhard bars are too small. I’ve ruined a couple of sockets on the rear one but I think I have it figured out for in the morning with the front

Added a Land Cruiser Phil sway bar kit too.

 

[DivByZero]

I need to build up my stash of stuff to press onto. The 54mm socket works great for the upper control arms but the panhard bars are too small. I’ve ruined a couple of sockets on the rear one but I think I have it figured out for in the morning with the front

Get some china rubbish off ebay or the like. I got this kit over this side of the pond:
ebay.com.au/itm/234445158265
44-90mm OD in 2mm increments, all clearly marked. Saves a lot of stuffing around. I have a smaller kit too for sizes below 44mm.

 

[wngrog]

I could not get the front frame side panhard bolt off. Big boi Milwaukee. Cheeter bar. Nothing. It’s not getting changed.

Took it all outside to the 4post lift and torqued everything to 135#

I think maybe just maybe one of my noises is gone.

One is still there and it’s at the B pillar floor. Not the exhaust hitting the frame. Sounds more in the body itself.

At least now I know any noise being made is not going to leave me broken on the trail. Just annoying now.

My next thing that’s goofy is my steering is “sticky”. At all speeds it does not want to return to center.

I have Dobinsons caster correction bushings that are new. Redhead 105 box that’s new and a new OEM pump.

I took the high dolla Dobinsons 12 way stabilizer off. No change.

Figured I did not torque the king pins right and the bearings had gotten flat spots. Bought a knuckle kit and before I cracked open the knuckles I pulled the tie rods off and the knuckles turn fully left and right smooth as silk with 8# of pressure.

Knuckles are dry as a bone so I’m not going to crack it open.

I did add new front brake pads so it was not a full fools errand.

Aight. Off to lunch to listen for noises.

 

[Andrew S]

The kit Divbyzero linked looks great, I also recommend one or both of these to have on hand with your press:

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[wngrog]

The kit Divbyzero linked looks great, I also recommend one or both of these to have on hand with your press:

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

I’ve got those. Thanks

 

[matzell]

On the steering and return to center, check free play in steering box. Loosen top nut and back off 1/4 turn and then snug lock nut back down. It should help.

 

[wngrog]

On the steering and return to center, check free play in steering box. Loosen top nut and back off 1/4 turn and then snug lock nut back down. It should help.

I hate to mess with this new 105 box but I guess anything can get out of adjustment.