Builds The Mule: My OM617 swap and other improvements (1 Viewer)

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That contraption makes my eyes hurt!!! Does it work normally??

Shockingly, it does...The shift throw is about a mile long, but it does work...It is a result of my V8 being about 5 inches too far forward - it was a real hack job by a PO somewhere down the road. It's next on the list of "major fixes," and probably the last big step, mechanically, before I can start on the bodywork - including patching the big @$$ gash in my trans tunnel. :bang:
 
Quick update...

New OEM gas tank has been purchased. Drove up to Spector Offroad to get it and saved quite a bit. It doesn't have a return line, so I'm trying to figure out if I can just pipe it back in through the fill neck (might get bubbly/frothy and cause air ingestion problems???) or very close to the tank in the feed line with a "T" union. I'll have to think through the flow and pressures to see if this works or starves the pump. The best way to do it would be to braze a threaded nipple in for the return line. I just don't like the idea of cutting a hole in a new tank...and I'm out of acetylene currently.

Recovery from back surgery has been a long tough road. The surgery was a success, but a lot of scar tissue has developed and is causing a LOT of nerve pain. It's literally the most excruciating leg pain I've ever felt. So, I'm still fighting that issue.
 
You should be able to plumb it into the filler hose with one of those inline hose fittings with a welded bung - tapped for 1/8"NPT . We've done that before on other rigs to solve plumbing returns for Weber carbs .
Sarge

Do you think the diesel fuel will get frothy running back into the tank like that?
 
Easy enough to install a tube on the return if you go into the filler but it shouldn't be a problem

edit, Dave beat me to it
 
Easy enough to install a tube on the return if you go into the filler but it shouldn't be a problem

edit, Dave beat me to it

Yep, I think I'll take the advice you gave me a while back and just plumb it back into the fill neck. If it has problems I'll just change it later. I have to get rollin' on this thing.

Officially the longest engine swap, disk upgrade, PS project EVER...we're coming up on 2 years folks, haha...I've got problems
 
Just a quick "bump" for anyone who's following.

My back is still healing up, but is going very slow. Lots of scar tissue formed after the surgery and it's wrecking hell on my sciatic nerve. Obviously haven't gotten back in the cockpit lately, but I am able to contribute to my squadron as a simulator instructor...

I have been, however, able to get out and do a bit of duck hunting with some buddies who are nice enough to carry all my gear.

In other news, we're also on Red Alert DEFCON 1 for baby boy #2. He's coming any day now so we're pretty pumped for him to be here. Between my wife's pregnancy and my back being AFU, we're quite a pair, haha.

I've got my new tank up at a fab shop to convert the pick-up to a -6 AN fitting. I didn't want to take the chance of screwing up the brazing/silver solder so I figured for once I'd farm the work out.

I'm drawing up the fuel system and will be ordering the Aeroquip (socketless) -6 hose, AGM NiCopp 3/8" fuel line, retaining straps, and the Mercedes "cigar hose" (return line, helps with pulsating fuel), and the required Russel AN to hardline compression fittings in the next week or so...

I figure if I can get the fuel system done by the middle of Feb I'll be doing well.

Part numbers for fuel system components (numbers required will vary on how you skin it):

Aeroquip Socketless Hose, Black, Rubber, 15' Length: AER-FCN0615

Aeroquip Socketless Hose End, -6 AN, Female, Straight Barb: AER-FBL1512

Russell Adapter Fuel Line Adapter; Black/Clear; Male Size -6AN 37 Deg. To 3/8 in. Line: RUS-639213

AGS Company "NiCopp" 3/8" x 25' hardlines: CNC-625 website link ---> http://agscompany.com/product/nicopp-nickelcopper-brakefueltransmission-line-tubing-coil-38-x-25/

Mercedes Benz fuel return line "cigar hose": Mercedes Part Number: 0009975152 / A0009975152 / 000-997-51-52
 
I'm still following along... Congrats on baby #2 also
 
Don't light the cigar hose until after the baby gets here!!! :cheers:
 
For $17, it's cheap enough to try.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W1...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cc30bf5e

$T2eC16dHJHgFFlwuk-ylBSBQ9)lvB!~~60_12.JPG
 
So I was going to go all high and right on my fuel system with bending hard lines, AN fittings, etc...but I think I might be overthinking it again. Are there any drawbacks to just using flexible hose? I'd still use the Aeroquip socketless hose and hose ends (because I like their quality), but I just think it'd be a helluva lot easier to plumb this thing with flex line. I could always go back and bend hardlines if I wanted to.

What do you all think?

P.S. the conversion to a -6 AN male fitting on my fuel tank turned out pretty good I think. Pics to come...
 
I think flex lines will be fine if you are using the aeroquip hose. I ran two 5/16 brake lines up the firewall and terminated them near the brake booster, then I just used rubber gas line to hook everything up
 
I went out and put my hands on the fuel return line and could feel the pulses. I can see where that cigar hose might be helpful. I got mine today and will install it tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!
 
I went out and put my hands on the fuel return line and could feel the pulses. I can see where that cigar hose might be helpful. I got mine today and will install it tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!

Your welcome!

I was running some Lubri Moly through mine yesterday since it seems like it's had some trouble starting. I hope it's just air intrusion or something and not low compression. The return hose was really jumping around!
 
Check your IP shutdown system. Sometimes, the manual push button valve gets stuck in the off position (on mine at least).
 
Check your IP shutdown system. Sometimes, the manual push button valve gets stuck in the off position (on mine at least).

Rog
 
So I got off my ass today and started looking at how to finish up the fuel system. I'm going to be using bulkhead fittings in pre-existing holes for the feed and return lines instead of putting more holes in the tub unnecessarily.

Here's a shot of the feed line bulkhead fitting, using a pre-existing hole (not sure what it was for? You can see all the damn carpet adhesive some a****** used. I admire his want for the carpet to be secure until the rapture happens, but good Lord. There's probably 3 hours of work there to remove all that adhesive...

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1423968093.508582.jpg


New tank primed w/ 3 coats of paint. Also a pic of the -6 AN pickup.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1423968403.266482.jpg


ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1423968443.097298.jpg


ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1423968487.286970.jpg


So enough of the useless pictures and now for the questions:

I'm pretty solid on my overall plan for the flex line routing, but I'm not sure how comfortable I am routing inside the frame due to vibration, etc. On the flip side, running on the outside of the frame opens up the possibility of road debris taking out a line, etc. This is why this swap has taken so long: I overthink everything. Should I just run it inside the rail and call it good?

Here it is running in the frame rail. It's secured at multiple places, but also at the top of the frame rail...

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1423969092.459684.jpg


ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1423969145.136045.jpg


I'm leaning toward inside. I want to get this aspect done this weekend...
 
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