The mods begin...

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Talk about taking the slow boat from OZ....glad the springs finally arrived!
 
Talk about taking the slow boat from OZ....glad the springs finally arrived!

It was a historic reenactment of a 3 masted sailing ship delivering goods between Australia and North America, with several stops along the way. You should see the special on either PBS or Discovery in the coming months.:hillbilly:

Me too.

Jack
 
All set to go Jack?

Im excited for you!:bounce::bounce2:

K
 
Yeah, so far this one has really surprised me, in a good way.

I know how you feel about lifted 80's, they just look right on the 4"/35 combo.

Going to do the gears on Sunday. I've got someone with a lot of experience helping me, so we should be able to do this, plus he has the tools I don't have. I have everything to do the gears, shims, bearing, gears, tools, etc... I have re-geared two other vehicles and I have always paid someone to do it, so really want to do this one so I can learn.

Good luck on the bumper and the woodgrain:beer: I have built a few bumpers, so far my jeep was my favorite, straight lines baby. My 4runner just never looked right, if I had kept it, I would have re-done it. The big thing is take your time and tack everything together to make sure it is where you want it. Maybe even take a day or two looking at it to make sure you are happy before finalizing it.

As far as the woodgrain...ugh. 3M makes a rubber looking wheel that fits on a drill, its like a big eraser, they are designed to remove stickers, stripes, etc...Not cheap, but they work great and don't damage the paint.

Jack



We're all waiting impatiently for an update :D. How'd it turn out? Pics?
 
We're all waiting impatiently for an update :D. How'd it turn out? Pics?

Well, Sunday ended up kind of a bust. I didn't realize that there was an "oil retainer sleeve" behind the outer pinion bearing race. So when I pounded the race out, it destroyed the sleeve. We started looking in the FSM and learned that this was not a re-useable part. So that put the front on hold.

So we started on the rear. Got ready to press the inner bearing on and we "stalled" the 12 ton press, so that put the rear on hold. I had to confirm that they had sent the correct bearing, they said it was the correct bearing and gave me some hints on how to get it on. Also there were no pinion adjustment shims in the install kit. I called today and learned that they (ringandpinion.biz) use shims, which they sent, under the inner race to adjust pinion depth. We just didn't recognize them, we were expecting normal pinion shims.:rolleyes:

Today I had to order some parts and confirm some parts. I still need to make a two more "tools" for the install, so I am going to get started on those and see how far I can get after I get home during the week.


Sunday brought the suck, really frustrating, but as a friend of mine used to say: "I'm not losing, I'm learning.":crybaby:

Jack
 
Well, Sunday ended up kind of a bust. I didn't realize that there was an "oil retainer sleeve" behind the outer pinion bearing race. So when I pounded the race out, it destroyed the sleeve. We started looking in the FSM and learned that this was not a re-useable part. So that put the front on hold.

So we started on the rear. Got ready to press the inner bearing on and we "stalled" the 12 ton press, so that put the rear on hold. I had to confirm that they had sent the correct bearing, they said it was the correct bearing and gave me some hints on how to get it on. Also there were no pinion adjustment shims in the install kit. I called today and learned that they (ringandpinion.biz) use shims, which they sent, under the inner race to adjust pinion depth. We just didn't recognize them, we were expecting normal pinion shims.:rolleyes:

Today I had to order some parts and confirm some parts. I still need to make a two more "tools" for the install, so I am going to get started on those and see how far I can get after I get home during the week.


Sunday brought the suck, really frustrating, but as a friend of mine used to say: "I'm not losing, I'm learning.":crybaby:

Jack


Bummer...as the blues singer James Harman wrote in one of his songs: "Sometimes the best made plans get unmade". You're not alone buddy!!! Hang in there and before you know it you'll be a whole lot smarter about R&P work! Another layer of knowledge on it's way ;).
 
Bummer...as the blues singer James Harman wrote in one of his songs: "Sometimes the best made plans get unmade". You're not alone buddy!!! Hang in there and before you know it you'll be a whole lot smarter about R&P work! Another layer of knowledge on it's way ;).

That is what I keep telling myself.

Update: D. and I got the backlash set up on the rear diff last night. Did a pattern check and the pinion is too deep, so we are going to adjust that tonight. Getting the backlash set was a pain, we had to put the diff together, check it, take it apart, etc...took about five tries to get the backlash in spec.

Hoping we can set the pinion tonight and give everything a final check, maybe the rear third will be done tonight.;)

I took pics, but didn't get a chance to upload them.

Jack
 
Well, Sunday ended up kind of a bust. I didn't realize that there was an "oil retainer sleeve" behind the outer pinion bearing race. So when I pounded the race out, it destroyed the sleeve. We started looking in the FSM and learned that this was not a re-useable part. So that put the front on hold.

So we started on the rear. Got ready to press the inner bearing on and we "stalled" the 12 ton press, so that put the rear on hold. I had to confirm that they had sent the correct bearing, they said it was the correct bearing and gave me some hints on how to get it on. Also there were no pinion adjustment shims in the install kit. I called today and learned that they (ringandpinion.biz) use shims, which they sent, under the inner race to adjust pinion depth. We just didn't recognize them, we were expecting normal pinion shims.:rolleyes:

Today I had to order some parts and confirm some parts. I still need to make a two more "tools" for the install, so I am going to get started on those and see how far I can get after I get home during the week.


Sunday brought the suck, really frustrating, but as a friend of mine used to say: "I'm not losing, I'm learning.":crybaby:

Jack
Care to share the hints?
 
DRRRAAAG!
Waiting for parts SUCKS!
Sorry it didnt go as planned, but youre right, that is the learning process!

K
 
I'm hoping Jack will do a Webinar so that we can all log in and learn from the Master Gear installer....
 
DRRRAAAG!
Waiting for parts SUCKS!
Sorry it didnt go as planned, but youre right, that is the learning process!

K

Yes it does. I couldn't have hoped for everything to go right the first time, so far it's just time. And all of the articles and the FSM steps make a whole lot more sense now. Still doesn't mean I know what I am doing.:p

I'm hoping Jack will do a Webinar so that we can all log in and learn from the Master Gear installer....

Well since I don't have a clue as to what a "Webinar" is, I doubt that is going to happen. Besides the only thing you would learn at this point is how to take the diff out of the rear housing, put it back in with different shims, measure, take it out, put it back in, repeat.

Jack
 
Care to share the hints?

Well they suggested that I lube the crap out of the bearing and the pinion prior to attempting the press.

I remembered a quick way to flash freeze something so I am going to try that on a few items, races/pinion itself and whatever else I need. My secret flash freeze is the canned air for dusting your keyboard, turn it upside down and spray the part, seriously cold. That's my idea anyway. I'll let you know how it goes.

Jack
 
Well they suggested that I lube the crap out of the bearing and the pinion prior to attempting the press.

I remembered a quick way to flash freeze something so I am going to try that on a few items, races/pinion itself and whatever else I need. My secret flash freeze is the canned air for dusting your keyboard, turn it upside down and spray the part, seriously cold. That's my idea anyway. I'll let you know how it goes.

Jack


Back in my Harley days we would put the head tube bearing races in the freezer overnight then press them into the head tube/frame. It made the difference!
 
Back in my Harley days we would put the head tube bearing races in the freezer overnight then press them into the head tube/frame. It made the difference!

I thought about using that, unfortunately I will probably have to assemble and take it apart several times to get everything in spec. So the freezer trick will only work once. The canned air trick should work and I can use it multiple times, at least that is the theory.:D

Didn't touch it last night, I had some other things to do, so I didn't make it to the garage. Should be back at it tonight.

Jack
 
I thought about using that, unfortunately I will probably have to assemble and take it apart several times to get everything in spec. So the freezer trick will only work once. The canned air trick should work and I can use it multiple times, at least that is the theory.:D

Didn't touch it last night, I had some other things to do, so I didn't make it to the garage. Should be back at it tonight.

Jack


I think I read somewhere that the diff shops use a set of dummy bearings. Can you take your old bearings, grind enough from the shaft side/press side of the bearing to use for your R&P backlash setting...and then after getting this portion dialed in press the new bearings into place?

Are you going to use a crush sleeve or are you going to machine a pinion spacer?
 
Well they suggested that I lube the crap out of the bearing and the pinion prior to attempting the press.

I remembered a quick way to flash freeze something so I am going to try that on a few items, races/pinion itself and whatever else I need. My secret flash freeze is the canned air for dusting your keyboard, turn it upside down and spray the part, seriously cold. That's my idea anyway. I'll let you know how it goes.

Jack
Sandys* electronics sells freeze spray, it's a little easier to use. They might have it at Radio Shack, but thats iffy since they aren't an electronics store anymore.

*961 Matley Lane #150 • Reno, NV 89502
Phone (775) 348-8353 Fax (775) 348-8397


Freeze Spray
<-----This is a Link!
 
I think I read somewhere that the diff shops use a set of dummy bearings. Can you take your old bearings, grind enough from the shaft side/press side of the bearing to use for your R&P backlash setting...and then after getting this portion dialed in press the new bearings into place?

Are you going to use a crush sleeve or are you going to machine a pinion spacer?

I was able to turn the inner pinion bearing on the rear into a "dummy" bearing. The outer bearing has a different taper, so can't use one there. The issue that I am/going to run into is that ring and pinion biz use spacers under the bearing race instead of between the pinion head and the bearing. So that means that for any changes, I have to pound the race out, adjust the shim thickness, pound it back in, check and repeat if neccessary. I don't really care for their system, because I think that I am running a bigger risk of damaging the race. I checked and full set of pinion shims would run me $100, so I am going to try their way first. That is why I am going to try the air duster trick, so that I can "freeze" the race when I am ready to put it back in, hoping that it will go in much easier.

I will be using Toyota crush sleeves front and rear. No one makes a solid spacer for the rear and I just didn't want to mess with it on the front. I have read/heard that the biggest problem is aftermarket crush sleeves. I bought factory ones and there is a visible difference between the two.

Sandys* electronics sells freeze spray, it's a little easier to use. They might have it at Radio Shack, but thats iffy since they aren't an electronics store anymore.

*961 Matley Lane #150 • Reno, NV 89502
Phone (775) 348-8353 Fax (775) 348-8397


Freeze Spray
<-----This is a Link!


Thanks for the link, if my idea doesn't work, I will give that a try.

Jack
 
I was able to turn the inner pinion bearing on the rear into a "dummy" bearing. The outer bearing has a different taper, so can't use one there. The issue that I am/going to run into is that ring and pinion biz use spacers under the bearing race instead of between the pinion head and the bearing. So that means that for any changes, I have to pound the race out, adjust the shim thickness, pound it back in, check and repeat if neccessary. I don't really care for their system, because I think that I am running a bigger risk of damaging the race. I checked and full set of pinion shims would run me $100, so I am going to try their way first. That is why I am going to try the air duster trick, so that I can "freeze" the race when I am ready to put it back in, hoping that it will go in much easier.

I will be using Toyota crush sleeves front and rear. No one makes a solid spacer for the rear and I just didn't want to mess with it on the front. I have read/heard that the biggest problem is aftermarket crush sleeves. I bought factory ones and there is a visible difference between the two.




Thanks for the link, if my idea doesn't work, I will give that a try.

Jack

Cautionary note on the freeze spray - the stuff is cold, but there's not much mass to transfer the heat from the races/pinion/etc to. It may take A LOT of spray. I tried something similar once, and I just couldn't get the temperature down very far. Hope it works, it's a helluva lot more convenient than waiting on the freezer.
 
Hmm, I didn't realize that diff vendors have different way to locate the shims on the pinion deal. That sucks.

The one downside to using a "setup" bearing is that your pattern may not be accurate for the "real" bearing. The setup bearing may allow the pinion depth to be deeper than a fresh pinion bearing but I'm no expert at this.

My 80 has no factory lockers so when I did the R&P swap, I didn't have to go through this ordeal as Jack. It sounds like an utter PITA from hell. I can understand your frustration of time and money expenditure.

AA
 

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