Builds The honey badger build (1 Viewer)

[Firemedic831]

Bed full of parts Can’t wait to get home and get to work now

 

[Firemedic831]

Just got home and I just had to check they fit perfect

 

[Firemedic831]

Everyone likes pics

 

[Firemedic831]

. Shiny

 

[Firemedic831]

And the best part a oe e brake That has the aluminum handle I will polish that

 

[Firemedic831]

Quick pic of windshield frame , rear doors and hinges . All powder coated .

 

[bluehawk]

Looks nice

 

[Firemedic831]

Little by little. But it progress

 

[gnob]

sorta looking like a truck again

 

[peesalot]

Holy ghost, still kickin huh ?

 

[Firemedic831]

Nothing crazy just cleaning and reinstalling parts . A lot of parts arriving next week so just doing the stuff no one talks about

 

[Paul]

Me too. Nothing exciting. Just getting the old seat brackets remounted for the new seats and then dismantle and off for powder coating.

 

[Firemedic831]

So I figured i
Would start prep for the new Orion Case . Currently it has the rear propeller style mount But I have not heard good things about this style . Obviously it must be somewhat ok since that is what has been in it , but now is a good time to upgrade . I bought the advance adapter crossmember. It mounts to the adapter between the tCase and trans . Seams straight forward enough . Only thing I am not sure about is it comes with holes and bolts to bolt to the frame but the instructions say to weld it . If I weld it it appears that would make it difficult to remove

 

[Firemedic831]

After looking I can unbolt the center mount and that would give me clearance to remove the crossmember. Frame brackets will be glued in

 

[Firemedic831]

Also will be installing the twin stick

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Imo welding a solid crossmember between the rear of the engine and the back of the transfer case is a bad idea. You'll curse yourself every time you have to pull it out.

If the kit is designed that way, put in some bolt flanges in the middle of the crossmember. Better yet, cut it shorter and weld in suspension style bushings at the frame ends so you can unbolt and remove.

As general advice:

Imo the most overlooked thing in big builds is serviceability. Plan ahead to make your future self hate your today self less. Oil changes, clutch/trans/tcase/driveshaft service, whatever. Take the time now to make it easy in the future.

 

[Firemedic831]

Imo welding a solid crossmember between the rear of the engine and the back of the transfer case is a bad idea. You'll curse yourself every time you have to pull it out.

If the kit is designed that way, put in some bolt flanges in the middle of the crossmember. Better yet, cut it shorter and weld in suspension style bushings at the frame ends so you can unbolt and remove.

As general advice:

Imo the most overlooked thing in big builds is serviceability. Plan ahead to make your future self hate your today self less. Oil changes, clutch/trans/tcase/driveshaft service, whatever. Take the time now to make it easy in the future.

This one actually goes in front of the tCase . The one in it now is behind the tCase. Agree 100 percent I need to be able to get it out if ever needed .

 

[Paul]

This is what I used from TMR. I had to do a lot of fab work but I really like it. Solid mount the nv4500 and bushings welded to the frame rails. Bushings have to be used somewhere on the mount system.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

This is what I used from TMR. I had to do a lot of fab work but I really like it. Solid mount the nv4500 and bushings welded to the frame rails. Bushings have to be used somewhere on the mount system.

Exact same thing I did on moonshine. It works great.

 

[Firemedic831]

Out with the old in with the new