Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (1 Viewer)

[grinchy]

while waiting for the epoxy to dry, consider the wiring solution. Need a place to pull ground and illumination. Luckily there is a set of four switches as part of the cubby.
AC115, Access Mode, AFS Off, and Back Door
This is connector E87.
Pin out:
1 - AC115 B Green
2 - AC115 'ind' Green
3 - Access Mode Blue
4 - Illumination + - Green
5 - Illumination - White
6 - Ground (shared by all) - White/Black
7 - AFS off 'msw' - White
8 - Back Door 'csw' Red

The ch4x4 switches have one Illumination wire, which should I use - Illumination + or Illumination -?

 

[grinchy]

On the plus side the switches fit and generally speaking the outcome exceeds my expectations.
I the down side, the two outside switches are binding and won’t spring back.
Physical clearances are fine, it’s something in the chassis or switch plate.
Almost done!

 

[lx200inAR]

Do you think something similar could easily ish be done with one of those Auxbean type switch panels?

 

[grinchy]

Do you think something similar could easily ish be done with one of those Auxbean type switch panels?

You could, as long as it physically fits in the space. Take it out and get started cutting!

I’m of half a mind to replace the cubby entirely with an aluminum panel (maybe vinyl the panel black). That could fit a large number of these small switches - maybe 9 in a 3x3 pattern That’s 18 switches if you go with the 2 function switches.

I plan to use another switching solution for all the lights. It’s Bluetooth based and is just a phone app. I only decided on physical switches for the required to get out of dodge items.

 

[grinchy]

All working. The switches were too tight in the 1x3 bezel.
A mixture of shortening the bezel tabs, filing the bezel slots, and filing the perimeter of the switches produced success.
Since the single switch worked and the body designs are slightly different around the switch tabs on the duals, it must be the tiniest of tolerance issues.
Here’s the full frontal and a profile of the ‘off’ projection. When ‘on’ they are basically flush.

 

[TN LX570]

Do you think something similar could easily ish be done with one of those Auxbean type switch panels?

It’s not near as clean as @grinchy solution, but I took the easy way out and mounted the switch panel to the front.

 

[SharpeCat]

There are things I am legally allowed to sell, and then there are things I can include as gifts/sneak into the empty packaging space. I took a small break from Cup Holders and made some Sponge Holders!

First test prints came out, and I am saving them for “Packaging/Support Removal” video, in case I go with the idea of 3D printing the packaging to go with it. I might make a lid to go on top, and engrave the shipping label/opening instructions “QR” code on the lid. You can also keep the lid and use it as a lid!

-Sharpe

 

[grinchy]

pondering the illumination/ dash dimming side of the switches.

It looks like the switch wires ground and dash lights are for this .
Further calirasiedleds sells a Toyota dongle that appears to output these two wires too, though it is possible there is some secret sauce inside the dongle (a diode on illum - and ground)?

I do know that Toyota illumination is ground based, same as all the oem switches, though not sure how/ if this matters.

Anyone successfully get these switches dimming with dash lights? What did you do with the Toyota illum+ and illum-?

 

[grinchy]

Here's a ground switched example from a Tundra forum (fog light, though i doubt it matters too much).

 

[lx200inAR]

I'm assuming we are saying that the switch light LEDs on the OEM switches are all on their own grounded network that goes through the dimmer.

I'm not seeing any way you can dim the lights without isolating the ground circuit from the leds in your aftermarket switch. Or adding a separate 12v dimmer switch or at least a resistor to set a static dimmer setting.

 

[lx200inAR]

I'm assuming we are saying that the switch light LEDs on the OEM switches are all on their own grounded network that goes through the dimmer.

I'm not seeing any way you can dim the lights without isolating the ground circuit from the leds in your aftermarket switch. Or adding a separate 12v dimmer switch or at least a resistor to set a static dimmer setting.

Well...actually maybe if the ground in the switch is really only there for the light in the switch. Then you could put the illumination (-) to the black on your switch and the illumination + to switch illimitation wire depending on switch. I can't think of a good reason that wouldn't work. In this case, you wouldn't connect the ground to a standard ground location, only use the illumination (-) tap.

Here's a ground switched example from a Tundra forum (fog light, though i doubt it matters too much).

View attachment 2953030

 

[grinchy]

Yeah, it would be preferable for the switches to have a sixth pin for illum -. I just pulled the switches out of the cubby to make sure it wasn't just a connector issue and they only have four or five pins (instead of five or six), all the pins on the switch are wired thru the connector.
I am pretty sure there are more pins behind at the switch header, but its behind a plastic welded connector.

I need to wrap my head around how ground switching works, and I think it'll all roll fine from there.

I can test some stuff out too in the car, it may make a lot more sense once I start jumpering things.

I was planning to use the winch power switch to interrupt/connect the 12v (controller) lead at the winch, I will experiment to see if interrupting the ground (controller) lead does the same thing, I think it will. I know the locker will ground switch, and I think the ARB will be fine too.

All for nicely dimming dash lights.

 

[lx200inAR]

Yeah, it would be preferable for the switches to have a sixth pin for illum -. I just pulled the switches out of the cubby to make sure it wasn't just a connector issue and they only have four or five pins (instead of five or six), all the pins on the switch are wired thru the connector.
I am pretty sure there are more pins behind at the switch header, but its behind a plastic welded connector.

I need to wrap my head around how ground switching works, and I think it'll all roll fine from there.

I can test some stuff out too in the car, it may make a lot more sense once I start jumpering things.

I was planning to use the winch power switch to interrupt/connect the 12v (controller) lead at the winch, I will experiment to see if interrupting the ground (controller) lead does the same thing, I think it will. I know the locker will ground switch, and I think the ARB will be fine too.

All for nicely dimming dash lights.

I may be oversimplifying this, but this is how i interpret what the switch is doing. I'll use the simpler 1 output switch, but would apply to either, except the 12v source is bridged across both switches.

Green and Red 1 are the wire that is being connected/disconnected to switch your accessory. Red 2 and Black are only there to light the switch. The black shouldn't be necessary in the accessory circuit. So if you tie the black wire to the illumination (-) from an OEM switch that would supply the ground path through the PWM therefore giving you dimmed lights. If your accessory is ground switched, then just use ground as the source for the green wire instead of 12v (+). The only monkeywrench i could see in these works, is if there was some sort of activated switch indicator LED as well. Then that light would also end up in the PWM switched ground circuit.

I don't think ground switched is any more complicated than..

"Normal"
(12v +) -> (Switch) -> accessory 12v in -> accessory ground -> Ground Lug / 12v (-)
vs
"Ground"
(12v +) -> accessory 12v in -> accessory ground -> (Switch) -> Ground Lug / 12v (-)

I thought i posted this earlier..but it was still here waiting.

Here's a link to a thread where someone using the same switch as you is suggesting doing the same thing as i said above and that it works. He said the light is still brighter than OEM, but suggested using a resistor on the illumination (+) wire to limit the brightness more.

Mod aftermarket switch to be darker like oem

If any of you have installed an aftermarket switch with blue LED lighting you've probably noticed that the aftermarket switch is much brighter than...

www.tacomaworld.com

 

[grinchy]

I may be oversimplifying this, but this is how i interpret what the switch is doing. I'll use the simpler 1 output switch, but would apply to either, except the 12v source is bridged across both switches.

Green and Red 1 are the wire that is being connected/disconnected to switch your accessory. Red 2 and Black are only there to light the switch. The black shouldn't be necessary in the accessory circuit. So if you tie the black wire to the illumination (-) from an OEM switch that would supply the ground path through the PWM therefore giving you dimmed lights. If your accessory is ground switched, then just use ground as the source for the green wire instead of 12v (+). The only monkeywrench i could see in these works, is if there was some sort of activated switch indicator LED as well. Then that light would also end up in the PWM switched ground circuit.

I don't think ground switched is any more complicated than..

"Normal"
(12v +) -> (Switch) -> accessory 12v in -> accessory ground -> Ground Lug / 12v (-)
vs
"Ground"
(12v +) -> accessory 12v in -> accessory ground -> (Switch) -> Ground Lug / 12v (-)

I thought i posted this earlier..but it was still here waiting.

Here's a link to a thread where someone using the same switch as you is suggesting doing the same thing as i said above and that it works. He said the light is still brighter than OEM, but suggested using a resistor on the illumination (+) wire to limit the brightness more.

Mod aftermarket switch to be darker like oem

If any of you have installed an aftermarket switch with blue LED lighting you've probably noticed that the aftermarket switch is much brighter than...

www.tacomaworld.com

The linked article from tacoma world includes a full switch breakdown and is total money!
Clearly shows the led ground going to black only, so that is illumination ground.
Also gives some hints on how to tone down the illumination some with new resistors, don't know if I'll go down that path or not; I do have the resistors right here. Little LEDs too I guess . . .

 

[grinchy]

A good overview of how to hack into a winch controller from the cab.

In-Cab Winch Control Wiring (From Basic to Warn Zeon)

In the course of posting in other threads, I have found there to be considerable interest in wiring up in-cab winch controls. However, in the course of searching other threads, I have found there to be very little information available regarding this topic, especially when it comes to the newer...

www.jlwranglerforums.com

A useful schematic for using two dpdt relays to prevent simultaneous use of winch in and winch out momentary switches on a five pin controller.

http://sleeoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/winch.pdf

 

[grinchy]

Got an Ironman 12k winch on their St Paddy day sale. It’s about 10 lbs heavier than the carbon, and 1/3rd less. Enough difference to pull the trigger.
Verified they are using a ratchet brake. Only things I don’t love is the 5/16 <edit 9mm> line and the 265:1 ratio.

 

[supercarrera]

A good overview of how to hack into a winch controller from the cab.

In-Cab Winch Control Wiring (From Basic to Warn Zeon)

In the course of posting in other threads, I have found there to be considerable interest in wiring up in-cab winch controls. However, in the course of searching other threads, I have found there to be very little information available regarding this topic, especially when it comes to the newer...

www.jlwranglerforums.com

A useful schematic for using two dpdt relays to prevent simultaneous use of winch in and winch out momentary switches on a five pin controller.

http://sleeoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/winch.pdf

Some winch controllers have less wires. I had a Harbor Freight winch in my 80 with a 3-wire controller and came up with a similar solution using two SPDT relays:

In-cab Harbor Freight Winch Controls - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/in-cab-harbor-freight-winch-controls.765837/

 

[grinchy]

Some winch controllers have less wires. I had a Harbor Freight winch in my 80 with a 3-wire controller and came up with a similar solution using two SPDT relays:

In-cab Harbor Freight Winch Controls - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/in-cab-harbor-freight-winch-controls.765837/

Thanks! Yeah not sure which type the Ironman uses, I was going to have to noodle it out if it was 3 wire, glad to have this reference!
Can you go into some detail on the selection/on off side of the switching that you implemented?
I’d like my ignition sourced winch on/off switch in the cab to trigger a high amp relay/isolator for winch power (and controller) and also turn the ground on for
the momentary switches in the cab to use via the controller wiring. Is this a viable plan?

 

[grinchy]

I really like the idea of the red winch plasma lock.
Unfortunately it was $50 shipped ($40 shipping).
So I got a 10 yard roll of webbing for $7 and spent 15 minutes with a needle.

 

[CharlieS]

Clever idea.

I was taught a low tech way to help avoid unspooling too far - wrap a bright colored (I used yellow) electrical tape around your winch line at the point where it exits the fairlead when you have the correct number of wraps remaining on the drum. It doesn't prevent you from unspooling the line too far, but it does provide a visual cue that you should stop unspooling.