Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (9 Viewers)

[grinchy]

Will def do that after I send this junk back to adapt for "fixing". That's the stock cable it came with (there's a 3rd signal wire to change the beam pattern and accent light color ).

Cool. I didn't plump for a white/amber but I kind of wish I had. I'm holding out hope I can find a amber cover to put on it. I've seen some but none that looked like they would adapt to fit.

 

[grinchy]

Working through the subwoofer update part two. Goal of this is to have a micro amp back at the sub. Also doing some little things along the way to build a better Install and sound.
Left a connector in the corner to come back to for accessories.
ran wires back to right rear. Acc, rcas, 12v.

 

[grinchy]

Then pulled the right panel and put 5 feet of damping on the sub box.
put 2 feet on inside of the sheet metal, and 1 foot on the plastic quarter itself.
no pics, but i reused the speaker plug to the enclosure, drilled the hole larger, and sealed both sides with sugru.
rewired the sub from parallel to separate, since I’m reusing 4 channel amp as a double bridged two channel.

i had on the agenda to redo the sub spacer, but it actually looked pretty good after taking it off, so I bedded it in butyl and put it back on.

waiting on a new rca y for the dsp side and will put it all back together.

 

[grinchy]

Subwoofer v2 is complete. I wired the dual voice coil JBL Club 1000 (about 5 ohm on each coil), to a bridged channel on a four channel amp for each coil (amp is rated around 250W bridged into four ohm, though I doubt it makes that much power). The sub is rated 200W rms, so the math is Sqrt(100*5)/sqrt(2) -> about 15.8 V with my non RMS meter. I set the DSP to 3/4 volume, the DSP sub channel level to full, and then adjusted the gain at the sub to 15.8 V on each channel.

The sub is about 120db with these settings at 3/4 volume. Since my other channels top out around 95-100 db (I don't want to burn the factory speakers), this is plenty of range. Note to self, prepare to replace all the factory speakers . . .

A lot of stuff in the install was straightforward, just like any sub install. I put the sub amp next to the jack. I reused the sub box grommet by drilling it out and then Sugru on both sides to reseal. Built a spacer to replace the jank spacer from V1 out of a spare bookshelf. That solved a resonance/rattle in the box and also got the box to sound 'dead', which is ideal.

Sounds very good. It's a solid $300 upgrade.

 

[Eisbaer]

Which bluetooth relay and waterproof box did you end up using for the roof lights?
Based on the previous posts, I assume you have the relay on the roof to separately control the front and side lights. I noticed the sides had three wires. Did you use a separate curcuit/relay for yellow? Curious if it has a strobe feature for using the same light in the back as a flood or flashing chaser light.
Thanks,

 

[grinchy]

I haven't put the relay up there yet. I did run up the 12v and a ground on 12gauge and just have that directly into my light bar at the moment. I'm running it on my existing bluetooth switch for now.

The relay I purchased is this one:
Amazon product ASIN B07GFH5J96 The IOS app associated to it is $3 or so. There are options here I think and they are about all the same.

I got this project box:
Amazon product ASIN B07WS4X1ZQ
I did buy a fuse panel but have since decided to use that in the truck for rear accessory fusing, and will just put inline fuses in the project box for the roof lights.

Yes, those lights are two color, and I do plan on being able to switch the white and yellow separately (or together). Haven't got a good plan for the chase light yet, I may have to get a box channel to use as the last crossbar. Mounting to the aero wing looks sketchy.

 

[grinchy]

Sanded cleaned and primered the shock and rlca skids. Hope to get color weather willing tomorrow. More international harvester red I think

 

[grinchy]

The redening continues. Two coats down, one to go.

 

[radman]

The redening continues. Two coats down, one to go.

Are your pipe clamps self-clamped to your ceiling joists?

 

[grinchy]

Are your pipe clamps self-clamped to your ceiling joists?

yeah, storage is tight in my garage.

 

[grinchy]

on this topic, this rail and tote storage system works really good for those trying to get totes up on the ceiling. I've covered my entire ceiling with these, something like 24 totes worth.

 

[radman]

yeah, storage is tight in my garage.

I hear you, but i'd still be nervous to stand underneath them

 

[grinchy]

Oh they're clamped on. I could hang in them

 

[grinchy]

Moar protection

 

[grinchy]

I've been looking at various power solutions, now that I have a small fridge. Even the cheap isn't cheap in this world. The most basic LiFePo4 100AH solution (Charge at home only) is $500+

 

[tbisaacs]

Get out your card and buy a lithium yeti 1400 and be done with it?

 

[SharpeCat]

I've been looking at various power solutions, now that I have a small fridge. Even the cheap isn't cheap in this world. The most basic LiFePo4 100AH solution (Charge at home only) is $500+

View attachment 2335756

I noticed a pattern that the industry standard for portable power is about $1 per watt hour. That’s my base for comparison to know if I’m getting more bang for my bucks. When the Jackery 160 is $100 or 250 for $190 sale happens again, I am picking up another. I love that their solar panel plugs directly into the Jackery and I don’t need any inverters or charge controllers and etc.

the name usually reflects the watt hours, so yeTi 1400 is 1400 wHs, and Jackery 1000 is 1000. I go by the rule that it doesn’t matter who makes the power banks between all the big names, since they all will get the job done, it only matters who has the best discount and gives more watt hours for your bucks.

Wish I did this sooner so you could’ve saved on your fridge as well. my phone call with IceCo went very well and it’s looking like mud members can get a very special discount here in the near future! They even offered to send me a sample unit to review!

 

[grinchy]

Get out your card and buy a lithium yeti 1400 and be done with it?

Maybe. It is the same total price at around $1900, but no solar panels included. And it's Li-ion . . .

I'm also considering a much smaller all in one LiFePo4 powerstation. It is the limited on board inverter (300W/600Wp) that is holding me back (and of course total capacity). A lot of convenience for $370, but I don't think I want to have to haul around 2 or 3 in the long run. Good short term plan, maybe not great long term.

I noticed a pattern that the industry standard for portable power is about $1 per watt hour. That’s my base for comparison to know if I’m getting more bang for my bucks. When the Jackery 160 is $100 or 250 for $190 sale happens again, I am picking up another. I love that their solar panel plugs directly into the Jackery and I don’t need any inverters or charge controllers and etc.

Yes, the retail type products are definitely in that range. And simple is valuable.

However china direct will get you a battery (100AH) or 1280WH for $400. So $0.30 WH. Then you have to roll your own electronics, which takes space and time. What you get back is built-in and much more capacity for everything. 20A ACDC charge instead of 6A. 50A MPPT instead of 20A, 50A DCDC instead of 10A, 100AH instead of 15 AH, 2000W DCAC instead of 600W.

I'm trying to figure out if I need or will need that flexibility and capacity.

 

[SharpeCat]

Maybe. It is the same total price at around $1900, but no solar panels included. And it's Li-ion . . .

I'm also considering a much smaller all in one LiFePo4 powerstation. It is the limited on board inverter (300W/600Wp) that is holding me back (and of course total capacity). A lot of convenience for $370, but I don't think I want to have to haul around 2 or 3 in the long run. Good short term plan, maybe not great long term.



Yes, the retail type products are definitely in that range. And simple is valuable.

However china direct will get you a battery (100AH) or 1280WH for $400. So $0.30 WH. Then you have to roll your own electronics, which takes space and time. What you get back is built-in and much more capacity for everything. 20A ACDC charge instead of 6A. 50A MPPT instead of 20A, 50A DCDC instead of 10A, 100AH instead of 15 AH, 2000W DCAC instead of 600W.

I'm trying to figure out if I need or will need that flexibility and capacity.

yeah and I’d say doing it this way is more reliable, since each component can be replaced individually by you, and hard wiring it makes everything more secure. It does come at much more effort and much harder for the average folks like me, who aren’t as mechanically and electrically savvy as the Grinch!

 

[supercarrera]

I went with a dual battery with a rockpals 100w solar panel to keep the aux battery charged on days I'm not driving. I'm really happy with the system so far. My aux battery can last over a day powering my dometic cfx40. So I only need the solar panel on trips where I'm going to park longer than a day.

The panel and charge controller were probably a little over $200 as I got the panel during a 20% off sale.