Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (2 Viewers)

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Gear oil. It's so sexy!

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Here's some market analysis thoughts for fabs looking for customers.

Product A sold 28,158 units in the last 10 years. Product B sold 47,958 units. Product B sold 19,800 units more, or in percent, 170% of Product A. The size of the potential market is larger for Product B.

Product A has multiple existing competitors selling SKUs into the market. The market has existed for many years, and prospective purchasers can compare similar SKUs products on price, support, style, etc. As the market has been active, many products have already been sold into it (fewer remaining purchases). The slice of the pie any competitor will get is a smaller slice as there is active competition.

Product B has no competitors selling SKUs into the market. The potential for volume is just beginning. Prospective purchasers have no current options, and cannot choose a competitive product (as none exist). There is potential pent-up, unmet need in this market, as well as larger potential future demand (more units of Product B exist). Any competitor will get a larger slice (the whole pie in the beginning?) and the pie is larger.

R&D costs for Product A and Product B are similar. Demographics (wallet size) for Product A and Product B are similar. Product B owners are perceived less likely to buy SKUs (reduces pie size).

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I'm trying to see what the Ironman bumper might look like on an LX. Here's the install shot (from the Ironman install guide), and two pics of the template on my rig. Is the template in the right place? Is the diagonal sheet metal on the TLC the same angle/place as on the LX? (if so I need to move it . . .)

And yes, I am aware it looks like a kid cut out the template. Mine did.

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Here's the pic assuming the sheet metal diagonal is the same.

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I pulled the remaining TPMS out of my 20s today at lunch. The Cooper Grand Trek is markedly stiffer than the Michelin Latitude. Not quite as stiff as the LT Duratracs, but closer to that than the Michelins.

Also found out the Duratracs are All-terrain, not mud-terrain. Pretty aggressive tread spacing for an AT, but hey, who am I too judge.
 
Can someone with a TLC take a few measurements for me? I want to establish the location and 'angle' of the sheet metal to bumper joint at the front, by the side of the headlight.
From the bottom back corner of the wheel well running board joint to the start of the joint, how far is it (in a straight line)?
How long is a string the follows the curve of the wheel well circle, from the bottom back corner of the wheel well running board joint to the start of the joint?
With a level and protractor, what angle is the joint (the angle from wheel well to light).
TIA!
 
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I'm using that ironman template because it's the one I have, not necessarily because it's the bumper I am most interested in. Mostly I want to see how much plastic is going to be left, and in what shape(s), which should be generally the same for all the basic Oz sourced items (Dobinson, TJM, ARB, Ironman etc).
 
Let us know how that works out with the rest of your lighting upgrades.

I find that the LEDs in the fog position make a huge difference.
I did get the fog H11 Hikari in. They are bright and a good cutoff too.

The loosen direction is counterclockwise.

Still rocking the halogen hi beams to keep the drl available.
 
Modified the engine cover to allow access to the battery terminals for my air compressor.

2 3/8 hole saw, 1 1/2 and 5 1/4 back from front edge of battery.

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Today was a good day. Mounted and balanced three LT ATs. Moved over four TPMS sensors. Put the tires on the car! Used the 'free' CL rims. After a good scrubbing they have some bubbles and scrapes. Not perfect, but they were free, so hey.

Just have to put TPMS sensor #5 in the spare and put it back under the car.

Have all the parts in house for diff fluid change, AHC fluid change, and the wheel/bearings front axle brakes. Still chasing down a few more missing bolts from my skids.

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Got my RLC rear bumper yesterday. Started painting the parts. I'm using RTG bed liner, it's been great so far, it is hard to control the texture consistency on these small parts.
Hope to get a first coat on swingarm and bumper tonight.

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So I broke three tpms sensors mounting the Lt tires. Sensors should be at 3 or 9 o'clock, or anywhere beside 6 o'clock. :bang:

Working my way thru them one per day. Glad I have a tpms computer and can replace for $25 each. Living and learning. I'm like a one man pit crew now.

Finally got the AT tires on the freeway. I'd bubble balanced and then added 5 Oz of 0.20 airsoft bbs. The tires are somewhat louder than the p metrics , but no balance issues. It's a trip in town, the bbs spin up after every stop with a reassuring whoosh. Can't hear them with windows up of course.

Prepped and painted the bumper body today. It's gonna be sweet! Just need one more coat on everything. Rolling the bed liner makes for a much better and more consistent finish.

Optimistic it might be on the rig by the end of the weekend.

Bumper prep has put a hold on the fluids and front axle.
 
thanks @Chocolate I hadn't seen those. I'm dreading the smell more than the wrenching, kind of waiting for a time when my family is out of the house for a few hours.

I got the the bumper and mounting brackets finished coating, took off the wheel well covers, and started coming to terms with the mounting of it all. Pretty straightforward, particularly if you have a TLC.

Three of four brackets will be easy peasy. The front wing on the passenger side, where the LX has the AHC pump and container, is going to require some adjustment. The AHC bracket is already using one of the holes.

My plan right now is to loosen the AHC bracket, hacksaw off a tab that is using the hole, slide in the wing bracket behind the AHC bracket, and bolt her down. Unfortunately there are some AHC hardlines in the area, so it will be careful going to get the 1/4" of clearance I need and pretty narrow fitment for a saw or grinder. I REALLY want to avoid pull the AHC system out to get to it, so going to try nice and delicate first. I knew that some AHC maintenance that goes on by removing the bumper cover was going to require me to drop the RLC bumper, but I figured is was only 10 bolts, not that much worse than the bumper cover is, if any. Was hoping that there wouldn't be hole contention. Oh well.

Glamour shots of the new bumper all painted up. The bed liner is pleasingly glossy so far. I wonder how much UV resistance it'll have.

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Well the rear bumper cover is off (really easy to do, only broke two plastic rivets which were super rotted). There was one snapped off bolt of the five under the tailgate. Fit up the brackets and mounts for the RLC bumper. 3 are good. The 4th, the wing on passenger side, will require a custom solution, as the bracket wants to use two holes in the front portion of the AHC reservoir and pump, and has a 90 degree reinforcer that is right thru the pump. It'll never work. There are some other potential fab holes in the area. It won't be as strong (going from a 5/8 and 3/8 to some number of 3/8 rivnuts), but it won't be beyond my fab potential, which is more important as I want to get the bumper hung ASAP.
I'll know not that stick a hi-lift on that wing.
 
thanks @Chocolate I hadn't seen those. I'm dreading the smell more than the wrenching, kind of waiting for a time when my family is out of the house for a few hours.


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Honestly if you have the gear oil already I would do the rear diff asap. Yeah it definitely has a much stronger smell than used engine oil. Best to change outside.

I can tell you the factory rear diff fill is nasty at 40k miles when I changed it, and it seems smoother with new fluid.
And it's so easy you can really do it in 20 minutes.

Here's the link again because the video didn't embed above


 
So still fiddling around with the final bits on the rear bumper. The custom bracket is back off so I can make version 2. Finally got the reverse lights hooked up, to see that one side got cut somehow during install. Oh joy.

Noticed last weekend that the new bumper is a tiny bit higher than the bumper cover, and the tailgate was resting on the reverse lights. Some 3/32 wire and that was resolved. Took just over 1/2” off length.

Also did the gas struts on the rear hatch to get back a couple inches of height. Now I don’t hit my head in low mode on the hatch.

All this and still haven’t got around to fluids. Good thing I only drive it 60 miles a week.
 

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