Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570

[grinchy]

Precleanup just prepping for dryrun. But yeah, 12 discrete Channels is a bunch of wiring

 

[grinchy]

So I futZed around with the power ground and remote wiring for a couple of hours. Three amps + RSE + usb + 2 factory 12v. I think the best solution would be a giant wire but, I ended up with a. Daisy chain of splices.
then I laid out the daisy chain of dsp modules. It is pretty huge with all the pro interconnects.

 

[grinchy]

The moment of truth. No sound. A serious hum.
Tracked the him down to a crappy usb cable. Found two more usb cables that weren’t powering dsp so replaced those. Still no sound.
Plugged the car out directly into the amps. This worked. So my dsp waterfall Needs some love.
I went ahead and verified all the channels are active and correctly wired, hooked the Rse back up, and put the seat on.

conclusions:
1 replacing the factory amp is viable
2 the factory Hu can be used as the source for the new amp, including the Input and radio. I haven’t tried the cd/dvd yet. This works even I the audio section show the balance fader at full back right and he’s no volume.
3 if you home brew the dsp it may take some iterations

 

[grinchy]

I restored a dsp to default and am testing the customizations block b block I have three designs so it will take some time. working though

 

[grinchy]

I have all six dsps reprogrammed and tested working (at least on the two channels I can plug a headphone into). I'm not worried about the third (hopefully not famous last words).

I went ahead and added in all the time delays etc. Still just basic crossovers and filters. Calculating the time delays with the dsp delay (every link in the chain was another 50 cycles) was interesting. I'll paste that in for those that want to replicate.

Basic overview:
DSP 5 - Using as a master control for equalization. It also runs the sub. The idea is that I can adjust the parametric EQ in this DSP and it will waterfall down to all of them; thus I don't have to worry about reprogramming any of the others for sound characteristic changes. If I guessed wrong on a crossover that will require working it out thru the chain though
DSP 1, 2, 3, 4 - basically all used as crossovers/filters
DSP 6 - Center, front tweeter/mids. I have a spatializer on the center. This may also need some real time tweaking.

Delay Constant	13.4​	Cycles/ms	48​
Furthest	117​	inches delay	ms delay	Cycles Delay	DSP Delay	Total Delay	DSP
RDL	117​	0​	0​	0​	50​	50​	1​
RDR	117​	0​	0​	0​	50​	50​	3​
Sub	105​	12​	0.89552239​	42.9850746​	0​	92.985​	5​
RRW	50​	67​	5​	240​	50​	240​	3​
RLW	50​	67​	5​	240​	50​	240​	1​
RRTM	45​	72​	5.37313433​	257.910448​	100​	207.910448​	4​
RLTM	45​	72​	5.37313433​	257.910448​	100​	207.910448​	2​
FRW	37​	80​	5.97014925​	286.567164​	100​	236.567164​	4​
FLW	37​	80​	5.97014925​	286.567164​	100​	236.567164​	2​
FRTM	28​	89​	6.64179104​	318.80597​	150​	218.80597​	6​
FLTM	28​	89​	6.64179104​	318.80597​	150​	218.80597​	6​
Center	10​	107​	7.98507463​	383.283582​	150​	283.283582​	6​
DSP	in	in	out L	out R	out S	Type
5​	L	R	L	R	Sub	A
1​	L	X	LD	RLW	L	B
3​	X	R	RRW	RD	R	C
2​	L	X	RLTM	FLW	L	B
4​	X	R	FRW	RRTM	R	C
6​	L	R	FLTM	FRTM	Center	D

 

[grinchy]

I have also invested an additional $30 in 1/8" 3.5mm to male RCA 18" right angle connectors, to use as output links to the amps for the L and R channels instead of the professional RCAs I bought. I think I'll need the space . . . I still will be using the RCA as interconnects and for the third output (it doesn't have a 1/8" jack option).

When the whole thing is installed I'll post up the the final BOM.

 

[raincityrider]

Added the 3D printed work of art @bhicks is selling.

View attachment 1985458

View attachment 1985459

I thought this didn't work in an LX only LC.

 

[grinchy]

There are lx570 variants, they fit into the existing cup holder and downsize to round and useful sizes one is taller and doesn’t let the lid close the other shorter and lid closed.

 

[grinchy]

Got the dsps rehooked up. I think they are all working. Stymied by the cheapo amps I bought. They aren’t discrete on the four inputs, left and right are shared for output across the 2 l and 2 r channels.

it’s a bummer, I’ll have to do the whole install again as the new amps have different speaker harnesses.

pretty sure this is the last hurdle. Space is going to be really tight. I’m considering putting some stuff on the seat bottom, maybe the Rsebox can zip tie there.

 

[dubyahard]

I don't remember if you said it or not, but were there any symptoms of a bad amp before it actually went out? What were they?

 

[grinchy]

I don't remember if you said it or not, but were there any symptoms of a bad amp before it actually went out? What were they?

Nope. There one day and silent the next time I tried To use it. I’ll do a postmortem on it after I get the replacement 100% working. Right now I can still use it as a backup plan (via repair)

 

[dubyahard]

Mine is currently experiencing a crackly sounding slow fade out. Works for about 10-15 minutes then nothing. It looks like the head unit quits responding to the volume knob or steering wheel button. It could just be my USAtech B-TOY thing that allows for streaming. I'll have to remove it and see if it helps. So far it happens with both streaming and FM.

 

[grinchy]

Mine is currently experiencing a crackly sounding slow fade out. Works for about 10-15 minutes then nothing. It looks like the head unit quits responding to the volume knob or steering wheel button. It could just be my USAtech B-TOY thing that allows for streaming. I'll have to remove it and see if it helps. So far it happens with both streaming and FM.

the sign that the amplifier is going/gone is when the amp doesn’t respond on the canbus and the offer goes to rear right. No volume is displayed. It could be master caps etc and have no volumes and still be on canbus. There are several failure modes. Did you try the hidden menu Linked above to see codes?

 

[grinchy]

The new amps (Soundstream ST4.1000D) have 30 amp fuses in them. The first set 10 amp fuses. As the circuit is only 30 Amp, I'm going to have to go full amplifier install now to handle 90 amp circuit (new 4 gauge from the battery, direct ground, etc). Those parts are all incoming. For now I'm working on updating the wiring to make it a bit less messy. I've pinned (and soldered) some 9 pin plugs, one for each set of four channels for each amp. I'll be adding the other half of the connector to the amp pigtail, and wiring kismet will be achieved.

Since I'm running a wire back from the battery I went with a larger gauge so I can run a fridge and other accessories in the rear in future if necessary.

Square Connector
Looking at plug
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
+/-
RWL B Y 1, 4
RWR R W 2, 5
Ctr W B 3, 6
Sub W B 7, 8

Triangle Connector
Looking at plug
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
RHL W B 1, 4
RHR W B 2, 5
FWL Pk V 3, 6
FWR Grn Blue 7, 9

Star Connector
Looking at plug
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
FTL W B 1, 4
FTR W B 2, 5
RTL W B 3, 6
RTR W B 8, 9

 

[SharpeCat]

Did the rear brakes today. Apparently I’m a snail paced mechanic. Had plans to meet up,with @tbisaacs , but my daughter had a conflict.

Hammered on the rotor for a while, then remembered some rotors have help me out threaded holes. These rears did, and I had a random fitting bolt in my misc collection. Good times!

First one was 3 or 4 hours, second an hour. I built a floor jack, wrenched with my kids, and worked on fitting the max cheater bar I could into the wheel well. Needed it for 7 of 8 bolts.

I used generic rotors off Amazon. These Amazon product ASIN B01F2XNYJS
all dolled up with slots and holes and black coating. Also got semi metallic pads and looking forward to being able to stop again.

Next weekend it’s the fronts, including new wheel bearings.

Sorry to bring up an old post but i was reading through and noticed that you did your rotors.

When i did the brakes on the 330ci my dad either did not know i was doing rotors, or he did know and let me hammer on one for a few hours anyways. When i told him i was having trouble, he recommended that i use a gear puller. He even had one for me to borrow!

After that, rotors went from being hardest part of doing brakes to easiest for me. With the gear pullers i get each rotor off in about 30 seconds. Here is one video i found on youtube of someone else doing the same; hope this helps if you ever have to do them again.



And don't forget to undo all the bolts first lol... i forgot one bolt on one rotor on the BMW and the rotor came out in 4 pieces, whoops. Bolt was fine though.

 

[grinchy]

Sorry to bring up an old post but i was reading through and noticed that you did your rotors.

When i did the brakes on the 330ci my dad either did not know i was doing rotors, or he did know and let me hammer on one for a few hours anyways. When i told him i was having trouble, he recommended that i use a gear puller. He even had one for me to borrow!

After that, rotors went from being hardest part of doing brakes to easiest for me. With the gear pullers i get each rotor off in about 30 seconds. Here is one video i found on youtube of someone else doing the same; hope this helps if you ever have to do them again.



And don't forget to undo all the bolts first lol... i forgot one bolt on one rotor on the BMW and the rotor came out in 4 pieces, whoops. Bolt was fine though.

Yeah. That's one way. The other is to use the easy off threaded holes. You put a bolt into it and use that to press it off. I know the rears I had to do that, don't remember on the fronts. To prevent future seizing I used an anti-seize (copper if I recall) in between the rotor and hub. No problem getting them off in future.

 

[Dwight Marshall]

$30/liter for the ahc fluid at local Lexus dealer. Another $30 for the four ittybitty plastic split washers.
I seriously hate buying anything at this dealer.

On the plus side, all parts are in house and now I just need a time window.

Hey Grinchy.. what split washers? I didn't see in instructions.. trying. to order in advance from the internet if I need them.. I found the fluid for $20 something online with shipping came out to nearly $30 each

 

[grinchy]

Hey Grinchy.. what split washers? I didn't see in instructions.. trying. to order in advance from the internet if I need them.. I found the fluid for $20 something online with shipping came out to nearly $30 each

The FSM shows one of 49156-60030 on each accumulator. I haven't pulled mine off yet to see if they are actually there, but assuming they will be, and they will be unusable.
The part itself is a 1/16" plastic split ring in the diameter of the threaded portion on the accumulator.

 

[grinchy]

I've got the 4 gauge thru the firewall and am ready to begin the full amplifier install over the weekend. The amplifier side speaker pigtails are pinned and soldered and in the connectors. All that is left is to finish the power wire and ground installation and I"ll be back to where I was a week ago.

 

[grinchy]

Fuse in.