Builds The Forbidden FJ60 (Story+Build Thread) (3 Viewers)
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Ah, true, but if the timing cover is already installed it makes it a pita…
@Beehanger, why do you need to put it at TDC? What are you installing right now?
I’m going off the picture posted earlier in this thread. The engine on a stand with the timing gears exposed.
Gotcha. Other than setting the cam/crank timing when installing the cam or installing the dizzy, what other reason is there to put the engine at TDC? Adjusting valves… what else?
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- #26
Had a huge win tonight! A buddy and I put our heads together, after 2 evenings of some outside guidance and first had trial and error, we torqued the manifold on with the remflex gaskets. Torqued to spec per the box. On to timing cover install and valve adjustments tomorrow!
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- #27
The green marks on the gears are lined up and the oil nozzle is staked.
I’d wait till you have the flywheel installed and you’re a bit further along with the installation to adjust valves. You’ll want to set them up cold just to get them in the ballpark and then when the engine is warm you’ll readjust them. Then you’ll check them a few times after the break in and after a few hundred miles. I guess it doesn’t hurt to set them now if you’re sure you’re at TDC. Just check them before and after startup.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Is your block and head raw? As in, uncoated cast iron?
This next topic creates some confusion, so no offense if you already know this. Each piston can be TDC on either the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. The crank spins around twice for every one revolution of the cam shaft. To adjust the valves you need to be at TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder #1 and TDC on the exhaust stroke for cylinder #1, but you adjust different valves depending which TDC the piston is on. When the index marks on the timing gears are aligned, piston #6 should be TDC compression. When the TDC mark on the flywheel (scribed line) pistion #1 is at TDC, but it can be either compression or exhaust stroke.
Below is a link to a post where I have a table showing which valves to adjust on #1 TDC compression and #1 TDC exhaust. My table also shows clearances for hot and cold adjustments.
forum.ih8mud.com
Below is a link to a post where I have a table showing which valves to adjust on #1 TDC compression and #1 TDC exhaust. My table also shows clearances for hot and cold adjustments.
right way to do it wrong
hello gurus.. i am about to attempt my first valve adj. on my 88 fj62. per the fsm and here on mud i know that the engine needs to be hot for a proper adjustment but i know this being new to me the engine will be cold well before i get through it. i have read a couple of places that people set...
forum.ih8mud.com
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- #31
thank you! i just turned the crank backwarads with the fuel oump in, didnt feel any bad friction, but as an afterhtought i realized the cam makes special contact with the fuel pump. if oging backwads, can you destroy or bend the fuel pump?
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- #32
has an enamel on it i believe
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- #33
How do I know when I’m done snacking the timing cover seal in? Used a mallet and an oversized socket. I think I might have overdone it, it looks like it’s further in than the old one. I think I can could the steel ring towards the exterior, then I hit it in further.
Is there a way to tell? A trick I’m missing?
Is there a way to tell? A trick I’m missing?
The seal works around the machined part of the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. The 2F engine manual is not too specific: "Drive in the oil seal until it is about even with the timing gear cover". If you are using a new harmonic balancer, you should be OK. If reusing your old one, check for scoring/wear on the sealing surface. If there is a worn spot, you may want to position the seal to avoid it. If it is too bad, you could use a speedi-sleeve.
That seal looks just about right to me. Make sure you put a light coat of engine oil on the mating lip before you install the HB. Installing the balancer into a dry seal can rip it.
Take your time doing this part and make sure you don’t over tighten those small timing cover bolts. They are measured in INCH POUNDS. Not foot pounds. Make sure the timing cover is flat before you install it. You may have to use some pliers or a mallet against a flat surface to carefully hammer it back to being flat. If it’s not flat you could have leaks around that cork gasket.
Also, don’t use too much RTV on the bottom where the FSM calls for it. There is an oil return galley right there where the two 14mm bolts thread in. If you get too much RTV squeezing out you can clog up that hole. It just takes a thin film on the gasket to do the job.
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- #37
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- #38
Hi guys, if I rotate the engine backwards with the fuel pump on there will it break it? I did this last week and didn't notice anything, but just knowing how it's activated by the camshaft I was curious if going reverse might have ruined it..
Dan
Dan
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- #39
Took a prep day Friday, and a late night tonight but got it done. Seated the lubricated seal and drove it in, no puller here for it so just went for it. Timing bolts tightened to torque spec for the 40 series manual, but these bolts were 10 and 14mm…. Not 6 and 10. If I need to change the torque specs up higher let me know, but did 60inch pounds for the 10mm and 12 foot pounds for the bottom 2 14mms, and finally 120 foot pounds for the crank pulley.
I have backup gasket if it leaks right away but……
Anyway Ended my weekend bender on a good note
Dan
I have backup gasket if it leaks right away but……
Anyway Ended my weekend bender on a good note
Dan
Looks pretty good from that photo. Generally with the cork gaskets you want to stop torquing when you start to see the gasket bulge a little bit. If you tighten too much past that it will split the cork.
I would avoid turning the engine backwards. The bearings settle in with the engine turning in one direction. Reversing that direction can cause damage to the bearings. The crank shaft is ground and polished in the direction the engine is turning and it causes tiny microscopic burs. Think of turning the crank backwards like petting a cat backwards. The hairs get caught in your fingers and you mess up the hairs. Now imagine you do that on a microscopic level with the metal. It acts more like sandpaper. You’ll probably be fine but I would avoid that as much as possible in the future.
Also, I think you defiantly have raw cast iron there. I’d think about painting it before you drop it in.
I would avoid turning the engine backwards. The bearings settle in with the engine turning in one direction. Reversing that direction can cause damage to the bearings. The crank shaft is ground and polished in the direction the engine is turning and it causes tiny microscopic burs. Think of turning the crank backwards like petting a cat backwards. The hairs get caught in your fingers and you mess up the hairs. Now imagine you do that on a microscopic level with the metal. It acts more like sandpaper. You’ll probably be fine but I would avoid that as much as possible in the future.
Also, I think you defiantly have raw cast iron there. I’d think about painting it before you drop it in.
