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- #461
The Farm
- Thread starter jynx
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- Thread starter
- #462
Welp, it has been a wet one so far for sure, but after spending pretty much all day yesterday working in the trailer and after an hour or so trying to get the brown 80 to crank (need to rebuild the starter and I'm pretty sure the fuel pump has taken a dump, yay) we spent the last few hours of daylight working on a long neglected project.... the she-shed we started last spring.
Finished out the top plates, added some extra bracing and started cutting the rafters. Got all the main rafters up and put up one lone sheet of decking just to say we did. Maybe the weather will cooperate and we can get the rest of the decking up and maybe get some sheeting on the walls next weekend.
Anyway, I think it's coming together.
Finished out the top plates, added some extra bracing and started cutting the rafters. Got all the main rafters up and put up one lone sheet of decking just to say we did. Maybe the weather will cooperate and we can get the rest of the decking up and maybe get some sheeting on the walls next weekend.
Anyway, I think it's coming together.
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- #463
Back on she-shed duties today. Got the false rafters up, trimmed the back and got 2 runs of decking up. Tomorrow I'm going to start on the porch since having that to stand on will make finishing up the front of the rafters much easier than working off a ladder.
Anyway, progress was made though it doesnt look like it..
Also need to trim the over hanging ends of the decking, but you get the idea.
Anyway, progress was made though it doesnt look like it..
Also need to trim the over hanging ends of the decking, but you get the idea.
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- #464
Well, I wasn't nearly as motivated to get going today, so I didn't get nearly as much done as I had wanted to.
First off, this is the "something is off and I dont want to chase it down" fix. Just some extra bracing because the decking didn't land right where i wanted it to.
I need to get the porch up, so i have somewhere to work off of to get to front of the rafter tails. I got the decking trimmed, edges nailed and then got underlayment on the first 2 runs.
The girls were keeping an eye on me from below.
Earlier in the day, Erin decided she was going to do a little test run thru the creek crossing and got high centered on the exit... called the new 80 into action to give her a tug out.
And finally did a little layout work on the drive into the big end door of the shop before the sun got too low.
Hopefully the weather will start cooperating more and we can start knocking out some stuff before it breaks hot and humid on us.
First off, this is the "something is off and I dont want to chase it down" fix. Just some extra bracing because the decking didn't land right where i wanted it to.
I need to get the porch up, so i have somewhere to work off of to get to front of the rafter tails. I got the decking trimmed, edges nailed and then got underlayment on the first 2 runs.
The girls were keeping an eye on me from below.
Earlier in the day, Erin decided she was going to do a little test run thru the creek crossing and got high centered on the exit... called the new 80 into action to give her a tug out.
And finally did a little layout work on the drive into the big end door of the shop before the sun got too low.
Hopefully the weather will start cooperating more and we can start knocking out some stuff before it breaks hot and humid on us.
Hey Matthew, based on your experience, if I was to go with one of those DIY Pole Barn kits, could I set the posts on metal 6x6 Simpson post anchors? I already have an enormous "parking lot" I could build one on. I know most set the posts int he ground and pour the pad after but I have a different situation.
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- #466
Yes sir. The shop is built that way. I had the slab poured and finished and then they bolted the posts down to the slab and went up from there.
The line posts got a big single bracket and the corners and either side of the big doors got big L brackets on them
Cool. I will see if DIY will offer that as an option so I do not have to source the brackets and the kit would be complete. I was looking at DIY and they have a 3% discount code for various folks which would be a decent savings.
I am looking at spending about 35k with them all in (no electrics) vs 60+ for a stick built. I think this might be the way I will go and put it up myself.
I originally thought about going 14 feet but I think 12 will be enough to allow a lift. They offer those trusses that allow for some extra ceiling height in tge center. I can not recall what they called them.
How was it handling the trusses? That is what I am most concerned about.
I am looking at spending about 35k with them all in (no electrics) vs 60+ for a stick built. I think this might be the way I will go and put it up myself.
I originally thought about going 14 feet but I think 12 will be enough to allow a lift. They offer those trusses that allow for some extra ceiling height in tge center. I can not recall what they called them.
How was it handling the trusses? That is what I am most concerned about.
Vaulted truss is what I thought they were called.
How thick is the concrete pad that you are considering for your building? I would project that you would need (want) around the perimeter where your posts attach. Further where you install your lift, cutting out the concrete and replacing with 18" or thicker anchoring pads would be prudent.
Good luck
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- #469
This is the type of main post bracket that they used for ours.
Amazon product ASIN B07VDM1BJK
They came with the package, so I don't know where they get them.
As Larry mentioned, we did a 12" turn-down perimeter with #5 rebar. Our main slab is 4" thick 4500 psi with fiber in the mix and I tied a 5'x15' #5 rebar mat and had it installed in a 8" deep section where I plan to install the 2-post in the future. Most lift companies say you can go on less, but I just couldn't do it on just 4". I also stripped the soil down to the rock and there is about 10" of graded rock under our slab. Make sure they put plastic down to keep the concrete from wicking moisture up from below.
The lean-to posts are set shallow in the back, actually a couple of them were soo shallow, they drilled and anchored one of those brackets directly to the rock and then set the post in it.
Only other thing I would offer in the consideration is insulation. I went around and around on mine and we did put the foil bubble stuff on ours. I was trying to figure out how to put in bat or do some spray foam, vapor barriers, etc. I spiraled pretty good on all that one night and I finally just decided I was overthinking it. I have now decided that I am going to put 2" rigid foam in the walls strip them and roll on. I will put some good insulation in the ceiling since that is where most of the heat loss/ gain will come from. I am going to go with 3/4" plywood on the lower 8' of the walls, stood on end, metal on the upper 6' and metal on the ceiling. I plan to surface mount all my electrical so I don't have to worry about having it all done before I sheet the walls, plus if I need something later, I can just run another circuit to where ever.
Amazon product ASIN B07VDM1BJK
They came with the package, so I don't know where they get them.
As Larry mentioned, we did a 12" turn-down perimeter with #5 rebar. Our main slab is 4" thick 4500 psi with fiber in the mix and I tied a 5'x15' #5 rebar mat and had it installed in a 8" deep section where I plan to install the 2-post in the future. Most lift companies say you can go on less, but I just couldn't do it on just 4". I also stripped the soil down to the rock and there is about 10" of graded rock under our slab. Make sure they put plastic down to keep the concrete from wicking moisture up from below.
The lean-to posts are set shallow in the back, actually a couple of them were soo shallow, they drilled and anchored one of those brackets directly to the rock and then set the post in it.
Only other thing I would offer in the consideration is insulation. I went around and around on mine and we did put the foil bubble stuff on ours. I was trying to figure out how to put in bat or do some spray foam, vapor barriers, etc. I spiraled pretty good on all that one night and I finally just decided I was overthinking it. I have now decided that I am going to put 2" rigid foam in the walls strip them and roll on. I will put some good insulation in the ceiling since that is where most of the heat loss/ gain will come from. I am going to go with 3/4" plywood on the lower 8' of the walls, stood on end, metal on the upper 6' and metal on the ceiling. I plan to surface mount all my electrical so I don't have to worry about having it all done before I sheet the walls, plus if I need something later, I can just run another circuit to where ever.
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I am looking to put it on the floor/slab of the old reservoir at my new place. It is two layers nearly 12 inches thick and reinforced with wire..... the first layer is 130 years old yhe second 70 years. But I will take all that under advisement. I could dig new footings for the lift some time later.
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- #471
I am going to say you are good! If you are building on 100 year old concrete, I assure you that it is more cement than filler and will likely outlast the slab that I had poured.
Also, it being a reservoir floor, it was very likely designed to carry much higher loads than you will ever put on it, lift, walls, D9 dozer, abrams tank, you could likely put dang near anything you wanted on that slab and not ever have to worry about it.
Also, side note, but I don't think you have shared any pictures of this new place just yet. I'd love to see the old reservoir that you are speaking of.
PMed you a link
MH suggested we get them to put it up as it is far cheaper than she anticipated it would cost but they do not have any "network" installers in our area.
Matt / Chris,
This looks like something that might be of interest to you and you might look into it.
Good luck
ACC has one of those Bendpaks and it's the best lift they have.
Damn. I got no place to put one right now and a buddy is using my trailer
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- #477
More she shed today. Got the porch about 80% done, threw a piece of plywood up there to work off of. Got the rest of the sheeting on the main roof and put some wrap around the other 3 sides to keep the blowing rain out.
I won't be able to move tomorrow, but it is mostly dried in. Which since they are calling for 2"-3" of rain over the next few days, was my goal.
I have the sheeting for it and had hoped to get some of that up today, but that flippin' porch took longer than I expected. It went good, just took a minute.
A few more good weekends of quarantine and we might be getting close to fully dried in.
I won't be able to move tomorrow, but it is mostly dried in. Which since they are calling for 2"-3" of rain over the next few days, was my goal.
I have the sheeting for it and had hoped to get some of that up today, but that flippin' porch took longer than I expected. It went good, just took a minute.
A few more good weekends of quarantine and we might be getting close to fully dried in.
I need to use my network to speak with an inspector in my county. Although a pole barn would be exempt up to 4000 square feet for agricultural use, I finally found the definition of "agricultural building" here and it is not very broad. It also prevents the installation of power over 125 amps and I want a 200 amp service in my shop.
Many jurisdictions have taken to examining Google Earth and other satellite imagery to catch scofflaws. I would hate to build something as large a 30 by 50 barn and get knicked for it.
Many jurisdictions have taken to examining Google Earth and other satellite imagery to catch scofflaws. I would hate to build something as large a 30 by 50 barn and get knicked for it.
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- #479
Interesting. I pulled a permit, but only because I knew when I pulled the electric permit, they'd check for a building permit. Ours is permitted as an ag structure, but as far as I know that doesn't come with a limit on service size.
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- #480
Mini excavator being delivered tomorrow to make a big ole mess.
Ditch for electric and drainage grading are top priority.
Ditch for electric and drainage grading are top priority.
