Builds “The Dude”: New Owner w/ Basket Case FJ60 (2 Viewers)

[js0k]

Pushed into place next to its friend, awaiting engine. Hopefully purchasing a V8 swap takeout tomorrow then immediately pulling the head to have looked over and shaved if everything checks out

If the crosshatching looks good (at a mere 190k miles) I’ll leave the rings alone, if the bearings look good and plastigage in spec (should I even bother?) you bet I’m not replacing them. If the oil pump is iffy I’ll replace it with Aisin.

 

[js0k]

Major update- special thanks to @Cragfiend for performing a V8 swap on this beauty! He has one helluva truck!

I moseyed on over to Kyle today to buy up his scraps. In addition to the 2F, he had just about everything that I’m missing- manifolds, downpipe, carb, front accessories, bellhousing, fork, clutch kit, fan, etc etc so it looks like I might be able to come in handsomely below my $1,500 goal after selling off some of the aftermarket parts that came with my rig.

@HemiAlex called me on the drive home and convinced me to take a less is more, stock approach. I was expecting the engine to be a major rebuilder but the (highly rated) mechanic who pulled it said he performed a compression test and it was 150 across the board... now I’m debating if I even want to break the initial Toyota seal.

I need to get it on my big engine stand (that another 292 is currently occupying), strip it to the long block, give it a good clean (even though it really isn’t bad) and start ordering parts (needs a desmog, temp sensor, oil cap, oil galley plug, etc).

Plenty of time to decide the real plan of attack while parts are on the way.

This is gonna be fun! Pics of the engine and other stuff that came with it:

 

[HemiAlex]

OEM will treat you right on this one.

 

[klinetime574]

Nice. Get your desmog bits from @FJ40Jim

Desmog components

Edit: Please try ordering parts on the new TLC Performance webstore. If it doesn't work, please let me know. Thanks! This thread lists the useful desmog parts that are made or sourced for engine builds & PS swaps in the TLC Performance global headquarters. Note that actually removing federally...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[HemiAlex]

Nice. Get your desmog bits from @FJ40Jim

Desmog components

Edit: Please try ordering parts on the new TLC Performance webstore. If it doesn't work, please let me know. Thanks! This thread lists the useful desmog parts that are made or sourced for engine builds & PS swaps in the TLC Performance global headquarters. Note that actually removing federally...

forum.ih8mud.com

Go ahead and send your distributor to him now.

 

[js0k]

Was able to spend a couple hours tearing into the 2F today. Got the head off and valves out and it definitely doesn’t look bad.

I think I’ll have .070 shaved off of the head? That seems like the best balance between bumping performance up a notch and not going too crazy.

Tomorrow I’ll get the machinists opinion on whether or not it needs any sort of valve job besides my home-lapping and new seals but it probably doesn’t (that’s the worst looking cyl).

I’m super prone to “while I’m in here...” syndrome, does this look like enough crosshatching? I’m inclined to bang the pistons out and run a brush hone through to deglaze it, that and new rings would definitely put the comp back up to high 100s but it’s a very slippery slope... I’ll at least see what some Hastings rings’ll cost if ordered through my machinist (couldn’t find any vendors for em on here). Love a nice freshened up engine though...

What do y’all think, don’t touch the short block or give it the ol brush hone re-ring?

 

[HemiAlex]

Heads are prone to cracking. I wouldn’t take a ton off.

 

[js0k]

Just wanted to recommend Jim’s machine shop in league city, when I walked in he immediately recognized the head as 2F and mag’d it right off the bat because “they’re prone to cracking”. I initially figured I’d have 50 thou taken off to play it safe but then I figured this’ll hopefully be the last time the head is off so go big or go home! Changed it to 70 thou. Hopefully that doesn’t bite me in the ass.

He said there’s no need to touch the bottom end and since I would’ve bought my rings through him I believe it. This guy has saved me a lot of money by telling me not to do unnecessary stuff.

Also dropped the flywheel off for a resurface so that the new Aisin clutch kit I’m ordering feels at home.

So far so good! Now back to working on the 4runner for a few days. After I pull the LC’s drums to see if they have enough meat to be turn-able- if not I’ll add those to the rockauto cart and pull the trigger. Already ordered JimC’s smog kit.

 

[HemiAlex]

Damn. Making progress!

 

[js0k]

Pretty good week, didn’t have much time but was able to sell off some parts I won’t use and pick up some parts I will. Rockauto order came, Jim C desmog stuff came, 70 thou was successfully shaved off of the head and the flywheel was resurfaced.

Now it’s just a matter of detailing the engine bay, cleaning, painting and resealing the engine, and dropping the whole dealio in.

 

[js0k]

Took a break from the 4runner today and gave the cruiser some love. Cleaned and painted the block, intake manifold, oil cooler and bracket, and discovered a pinhole in the oil cooler. I think I’ll take it to the welding supply place and ask what I need to tig it up/if they think I should try.

Also cleaned the valves, lapped them into the head, and gave it new valve stem seals.

Looks like I have more stuff to order from rockauto (in addition to the new drum and AC parts I’m gonna pick up). I also think I need new oil cooler o rings and washers, a drain plug washer, and some other silly little stuff like that.

If the oil cooler turns out to be wasted it looks like I’ll be hitting the classifieds.

 

[js0k]

Getting pretty close to having her on the road. Sorry I didn’t really update this thread as I’ve done stuff but that’s what Instagram stories are for (@js0k)

Did everything I listed two posts ago:

• Detailed the engine bay.
  
• Cleaned, painted and resealed the engine.
  
• Dropped the whole dealio in.
  

I also solved the oil cooler dilemma from my last post- picked up a new one from City Racer and the O rings to install it at my local dealer. The copper gaskets came in my gasket set.

I’m missing the metal pipes that bolt to the engine for the oil cooler and heater hoses but I figured I’d pick those up from city racer later when I need a new lower rad pipe.

The main problems I’ve encountered since the last update (and their solutions) are as follows:

• A freeze plug was rusted through. Bought a new set and banged them in.
• When I had 70 thou shaved off of the head, the reliefs for the alignment dowels disappeared. Bought a 41/64 drill bit and hawged the head bolt holes out a little.
• Broke a flywheel bolt. Welded a nut to extract it and ordered a new OEM one. Resurfaced flywheel, new OEM bolt, new Aisin clutch kit. Should be set.
  
• When installing the manifolds, I stripped a bolt hole. Helicoiled it and another hole stripped when I tried reinstalling. Took this as a hint that something wasn’t right and sure enough, I neglected to reinstall the heat insulator between the manifolds. It has a crack in it, so if I complain of an exhaust leak later that is probably the culprit.
• Needed EGR block off plates. Cut some out of scrap steel and tapped one for a 1/4 NPT elbow barb for PCV. Hopefully that doesn’t cause a vac leak but we’ll see. Cut the EGR mess off of the down pipe and welded up the hole.
• Broke the distributor O-ring that sits in the groove. Bought a new OEM one but it is too big- fits around the shaft great though. Gonna try one from my HF O ring assortment. Will probably do this when my MSD 8464 arrives and I pull the distrib for a quick and dirty home “recurve”.

So far so good! All I have left to do is install a couple water lines, connect electrical and the rest of the desmog vac lines, install PCV valve and hose, fill with coolant, buy a battery, drain and fill gas tank, redo a couple grounds, figure out the throttle linkage pins, install, bleed and adjust clutch slave and hose and I should be ready to turn the key.

Will update when I’ve made more progress or remember something I forgot to mention!!

 

[js0k]

In other, more important, news, I found a name for the cruiser. “The Dude”, because it reminds me of the dude’s sweater.

 

[HemiAlex]

Needs an 80 series frame.

 

[js0k]

Needs an 80 series frame.

I’d like to send it with this frame for awhile first. Maybe go to Colorado with y’all and see if this one breaks. Is samc2447 putting full 80 drivetrain in the pig or just the frame and axles?

 

[js0k]

Little update... have every 3mm vac line run, just need to install the 5ft of 6mm I picked up and the PCV valve/hose/T to HIC and that’s done.

Main issues now are negative batt cable, some grounds, and exhaust.

I think I figured out the ground wire and neg batt cable routing.

From neg terminal, to fender at battery tray mount, down to motor mount nut?

From frame to lower starter nut?

To head?

I also need to add an end to the ground from the frame to the T case.

Since I’m completely missing the neg cable I’m thinking about doing what I did to my 12v Cummins and making beefy new 1/0 battery cables with mil spec terminals. Will look around at my options but I feel like I might as well upgrade. As far as the ground wires go I probably won’t go crazy, will just crimp new ring terminals onto the existing wires.

My other dilemma is exhaust. Right now I just have a down pipe with no flange, and some monstrosity of a muffler with a flange and a turndown. No pipe, no hangers, nothing else.

Thinking about picking this and the associated hangers up at rockauto, and just filling in the gap with flex or straight pipe, clamps, and the muffler I have and seeing what happens. Any other recs?

 

[js0k]

If anyone has a good FJ60 distributor for sale I’m interested!

Found out that my distributor has no vac advance. HAC port at least read some vacuum but fell, advancer port had nada. About to hit the classifieds.

At least I finished running the desmog vac lines (besides the PCV and it’s T to HIC) and got the battery tray installed. Will probably rip all of this off oneeee more time to slap a stainless plate between the intake and exhaust manifolds to try to mitigate my chances of cracking the intake.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Since I’m completely missing the neg cable I’m thinking about doing what I did to my 12v Cummins and making beefy new 1/0 battery cables with mil spec terminals.

These are the shiznit. I use 2/0 on the diesel vehicles. Fine strand battery/welding cable also from McMaster.

 

[FishTacos]

Little update... have every 3mm vac line run, just need to install the 5ft of 6mm I picked up and the PCV valve/hose/T to HIC and that’s done.

Main issues now are negative batt cable, some grounds, and exhaust.

I think I figured out the ground wire and neg batt cable routing.

From neg terminal, to fender at battery tray mount, down to motor mount nut? View attachment 2171111

From frame to lower starter nut?View attachment 2171108

To head?View attachment 2171110

I also need to add an end to the ground from the frame to the T case.

Since I’m completely missing the neg cable I’m thinking about doing what I did to my 12v Cummins and making beefy new 1/0 battery cables with mil spec terminals. Will look around at my options but I feel like I might as well upgrade. As far as the ground wires go I probably won’t go crazy, will just crimp new ring terminals onto the existing wires.

My other dilemma is exhaust. Right now I just have a down pipe with no flange, and some monstrosity of a muffler with a flange and a turndown. No pipe, no hangers, nothing else.

Thinking about picking this and the associated hangers up at rockauto, and just filling in the gap with flex or straight pipe, clamps, and the muffler I have and seeing what happens. Any other recs?

View attachment 2171116

I just installed that tail pipe on my 60 a couple of months ago. Fit is pretty good.

I also got a universal catalytic converter and walker muffler with very similar specs to the oem.

Put them together like this:

A little scope creep here.

I got a replacement cat. Cheaped out a little but I figure it is better that going without one.

Got some weld on flanges:

View attachment 2117456
2 1/8" center hole. Required a little filing to fit nicely.

Fit the down tube back to the truck after a rough fit of the flanges:


View attachment 2117457

Also to the cat:

View attachment 2117458

Rough fit just required a few taps with a hammer to get aligned nicely.

 

[FishTacos]

If anyone has a good FJ60 distributor for sale I’m interested!View attachment 2172393

Found out that my distributor has no vac advance. HAC port at least read some vacuum but fell, advancer port had nada. About to hit the classifieds.

At least I finished running the desmog vac lines (besides the PCV and it’s T to HIC) and got the battery tray installed. Will probably rip all of this off oneeee more time to slap a stainless plate between the intake and exhaust manifolds to try to mitigate my chances of cracking the intake.

View attachment 2172394View attachment 2172395

You're saying the vac advance port doesn't hold vacuum? You can use the other port for vac advance in a pinch.

Ideally, you send the distributor to Jim Chenoweth (tlc performance) and he will recurve your advance for a desmoged engine. You may want to get a backup dizzy in the mean time or buy one to send out and attach the good vac port on yours to advance while you wait.

BTW, you're making really good progress on The Dude. Good luck.