- Thread starter
- #261
Those of you with stock SA rigs and an OME lift, what did you end up doing about the sway bar?
The Cursed Build
- Thread starter Mudder
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
After working on my trucks for the past 2 years I finally bought my self a torque wrench haha. I got my front axle kit ordered from Marlin and bought some Napa wheel bearing and chassis grease. All that's left is to get my rotors and once the lit gets here start getting my axle back to normal.
Anti-sway bar went to the scrap pile (on my '84). Used to be a guy named Drew Persson that sold these really cool solid stainless endlink disconnects, but honestly they were kinda a nuisance and I could hardly tell the difference when they were connected. So I got rid of them and the entire bar. Never missed it.
One torque wrench is never enough. And make sure you get it checked, I've seen brand new ones that were way out of calibration.
One torque wrench is never enough. And make sure you get it checked, I've seen brand new ones that were way out of calibration.
- Thread starter
- #264
Was planning on it and you think I'd be fine with remove the sway bar KLF?
I took my sway bar off too. Just seems silly to have one if you ever wheel it.
Where do you get a torque wrench calibrated?? I prefer the beam style but can't use in many situation that obscure view of dial.
$750 is way high for an exhaust. I paid like $230ish plus shipping years ago for my Doug thorley and had a local mom and pops exhaust shop run 2.25" pipe for me was less than $120. But guess it really depends on where you are located. Had a shop in Tacoma, WA charge me close to $30 for two welds, welding in a flex pipe. That I did labor to to pull and install. I was using flanges.
I ditched my sway bars years ago and have never looked back. I've heard guys say it's dangerous and not as stable at high speed. I totally disagree and think if your driving a lifted truck on long flexy springs like a sports car, well that is Darwin suggestion it is time to get out of gene pool.
$750 is way high for an exhaust. I paid like $230ish plus shipping years ago for my Doug thorley and had a local mom and pops exhaust shop run 2.25" pipe for me was less than $120. But guess it really depends on where you are located. Had a shop in Tacoma, WA charge me close to $30 for two welds, welding in a flex pipe. That I did labor to to pull and install. I was using flanges.
I ditched my sway bars years ago and have never looked back. I've heard guys say it's dangerous and not as stable at high speed. I totally disagree and think if your driving a lifted truck on long flexy springs like a sports car, well that is Darwin suggestion it is time to get out of gene pool.
- Thread starter
- #268
750 is just for an LCE header and my local muffler shop putting on a 2.25 turbo style exhaust...and I can weld so maybe I'll try. Speaking of which I do have pictures to post of the flatbed sitting on my truck. @Toast it does seem silly but as this is my DD I just wanted some input
Try it without it, see what you think. Costs nothing to take it off.
I have three torque wrenches. I trust 2 of them.Anti-sway bar went to the scrap pile (on my '84). Used to be a guy named Drew Persson that sold these really cool solid stainless endlink disconnects, but honestly they were kinda a nuisance and I could hardly tell the difference when they were connected. So I got rid of them and the entire bar. Never missed it.
One torque wrench is never enough. And make sure you get it checked, I've seen brand new ones that were way out of calibration.
- Thread starter
- #271
It should be done tomorrow. I have more done then the photos show but haven't gotten anymore photos.
- Thread starter
- #272
Still need to paint in a few areas but otherwise she's done!
- Thread starter
- #273
Well, as I was driving yesterday my clutch acted up. Time for a new clutch and hydraulics. Contacted CDan about a slave and I’ll order the oversized clutch package along with Master and braided line from Marlin here soon. Along with a T-case to transmission gasket so that stops leaking.
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- #274
Like they say. When it rains it pours. Ordered the front axle as thebseals got worse. Then the clutch was acting up. Got that all ordered and now my starter is acting up. It won't engage and I've had out out multiple times to check contacts so I'm just going to get a new one from Napa some point next week
Depending on which starter you get from NAPA, the dealer might be cheaper ... at least if you use one of the discount dealers.
- Thread starter
- #276
CDan might be chwpaer then $80? Hmmmm I'll have to see. I do have one thing I'm going to try. I'll let you guys k ow if it worked or didn't once I try it. And thank you Pappy
- Thread starter
- #277
So my plan worked. I used the starter from my 89 Toyota pickup AUTO tranny on my 84 with a manual. And it starts better then it did before. It even sounds better
Nice dude! I actually just picked up a starter today myself. 67 plus tax, employee price. 1.4kw denso
- Thread starter
- #279
That's good to know! Thanks toast although it turns out to not be the starter. So back to testing wiring and if I can't figure it out the whole harness is coming out again
- Thread starter
- #280
I need some input from you guys. My issue right now is that sometimes when i turn the ign to start my truck all I get is a clicking. today it was doing it so i broke out my test meter. Starter signal is strong, distributor signal to igniter on the driver side of the truck is good as well but the distrubitor plug isn't good and that's why it won't start. I then traced it back to the plug in behind the igniter and all of them but 2 were reading good as well. I traced one wire back to the ECU and the other wire to another plug in that goes to the dash harned, my guess is it goes to the ignition switch. Do you guys thing it's the switch or the ecu? I never had this issue before this swap.
