- Thread starter
- #281
Guess I should mention it's throwing codes 12 and 51
The Cursed Build
- Thread starter Mudder
- Start date
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You say you turn the key and you hear clicking? I would take your meter and check the battery. If the battery gives you 12.5V +/-, then I would start checking your cables.
- Thread starter
- #283
Pappy, I did that and traced it back to the wire that connects to the dist from the ignitor. Then traced that back to the plug then from the plug back to the ecu and the dash wiring
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- #284
Checked the wiring harness and it came out fine. Taped it up and put it in and its still doing the same thing. This is getting really annoying. I'm going to have Napa order me an ignition switch for an 84 and try that. If it still acts up then I'll get anothet ecu. Which is going to be hard as hell to track down
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- #285
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-Q0u9Vn6WMieWo1ck1TUUhWVlE/view?usp=sharing
No sure if you guys have access to this or not but here's what my truck is now doing. Before it would just click and now this. I know the wiring is fine, ignitor is fine, coil is fine, starter is good and the plug in to it is getting good power. one of the two wires not getting power goes to the ECU and the other goes it what I'm assuming is the ignition switch.
No sure if you guys have access to this or not but here's what my truck is now doing. Before it would just click and now this. I know the wiring is fine, ignitor is fine, coil is fine, starter is good and the plug in to it is getting good power. one of the two wires not getting power goes to the ECU and the other goes it what I'm assuming is the ignition switch.
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- #286
Well it got more interesting. I went to start it and got nothing. So I hooked up some jumper cables and it started fine. So then I broke out my multi-meter and my alternator doesn't seem to be working again. So I then removed the cables and it ran fine. Then I shut it off and it started doing its clicking thing again and I jumped it and it started fine. Not sure if there's a relation between these two or not.
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- #287
I got it all figured out. There was a melted wire that was shorting out on stuff. But I do have another question, KLF do you by chance have a spare stock battery tie down?
Dude they are 20 bucks new at Toyota
- Thread starter
- #289
Without your discount?
Lol haha right! Not sure
I don't have any battery brackets, sorry. They are like $17 at Toyota, not including the J-bolt. I do have a few bolts in my stash, but it's probably not worth paying the shipping.
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- #292
I'll have to stop by and talk to them. I thought they were closer to $40 from what I've seen. I've got the J-Bolt from a different battery tie down luckily though
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- #293
Well my clutch gets here today from Marlin. Also got my front axle kit. I'll be doing the front axle this weekend as I wait to receive the slave from CDan and hopefully a rear main from him. If not I'll just take a trip to my local Toyota and hope they've got one in stock.
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- #294
Well I added another item to my list. A high steer kit. I'm going to see if 4x4Labs can get one to work with a 2.5 ome lift and ifs box
Please do! I've been wanting to do high steer for awhile but have been curious if it's possible with the ome 2.5 lift. Also be aware that getting through to luke is very difficult. He doesn't really show a lot of interest in mini/runner stuff these days.
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- #296
I emailed him and will see what comes of its right now ivebgot so much yo do before work season (farming starts) that I can wait
I hope he emails you back.
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- #298
Miw too but I need some help. I have cone washers from hell right now. I'm doing my front axle. Which has been really messy as the grease was soupy and went everywhere. But I can't get the steering cine washers to come out. I've tried heat, pb blaster more heat then hitting with hammer. I'm thinking I may have to double but them and just putt the studs out to separate them then reinstall the studs
Just double nut them and back them out.
At my shop we take a brass drift and place it right on top of the stud and hit the sh&it out of it. Works every time and we work on rusty stuff way older than minis. Give it a try. Has to be brass though. I've done countless axles so let me know. Take some pics of you have more trouble.
