The Cursed Build

[Mudder]

Well the stupid starting problem is back. I'll turn the key and get clicks and eventually it'll start. I've tried 3 different starters, double checked my battery and all my grounds and hots, been through the wiring harness already looking for the problem and replaced the starter relay in the fuse box. I'm at a loss. To by-pass this last year I used a wire from the battery to a momentary switch, then a wire from the switch to the starter and never had a problem. And this has only come up after it being warm. And I know it's no vapor lock, checked for that as well.

 

[Mudder]

Well my passenger side leaf springs is getting wavy. Not sure why either, I have bump stops and waited a while before taking them off road. I have an email into @cruiseroutfit about it. I still love the leaf springs just weird that it's happening but I've got faith it'll all be worked out.

 

[Mudder]

Got parts coming in from Engnbldr, Beno and LCE for a head gasket job. Should be happening this weekend at the rate evrythig was shipped. I need to post some picture of my truck as I've made a tool box for the side and a new high lift jack mount.

 

[Mudder]

So I need some input. In the middle of doing my head gasket, old heads off just some cleaning and waiting for gaskets from Beno. One of my head bolts was extremely stuck and I ended up having to punch it out. The threads aren't messed up thankfully. But should I get new head bolts because of that one being stuck? Or am I safe to reuse them? I know they aren't TTY bolts.

 

[pappy]

Cheap insurance is to replace them.

 

[1stcrawlerbuild]

Check these guys out for bedsides. I can't personally vouch for them, but seems like a cool idea.

http://www.toyotafiberglass.com/truck_9.html

Heyman you wouldn't happen to have a different link this one is not working.

 

[1stcrawlerbuild]

Would it hold though? I was also thinking about rubber cement. It comes off of metal easily and if I ever did replace the vinyl its be with carpet. My issue is just it's coming up on the sides and doesn't even go behind the seat

3m makes a great double sided tape and it does last a lot of people use it for transition strips on floring

 

[Mudder]

I'm looking for a lower intake manifold for a 22re if anyone has one. The thermostat housing bolts stripped out.

 

[pappy]

I'm looking for a lower intake manifold for a 22re if anyone has one. The thermostat housing bolts stripped out.

There were two flavors, as I recall. I think they swap. I have a later version, something I think from 1994.

 

[KLF]

I'm looking for a lower intake manifold for a 22re if anyone has one. The thermostat housing bolts stripped out.

I have all the intake stuff from my '87, happy to send you the lower intake for the cost of shipping.

 

[Mudder]

Thank you @pappy, didn't know there was a difference between them in the later years. And thank you @KLF for being generous.

 

[Toast]

Ah Mudder, sorry to see that mysterious dark cloud has still been following you around ha ha. It's been a while since I've been on. See you've got your hands full doing a headgasket job. Well first off, research the starter relay bypass mod. This will fix that issue. Also, replace all your head bolts. They stretch and shouldn't be re-used. Lastly, I've had amazing results using heli-coils on alluminum holes. They are easy and work great. Good luck!

 

[Mudder]

Nice to see you're back Toast. I'll keep that 3M stripping in mind. I'm leaning towards all new carpet. An I actually figured out the starting issue, thanks to this thread (Final fix for intermittent no-crank on the 22re. - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum) this autmatic wiring harness will be the death of me. I've got new head bolts coming in as well. I thought about a heli-coil but since KLF has a lower intake I'll just go that route. As for that black cloud...it's been sticking realll close to me lately. Hows that 22re coming along?

 

[Mudder]

Head bolts came in today, new timing chain guide will be here tomorrow (managed to break the passenger side one). Then I can reinstall the head.

 

[Mudder]

Head is on, miscellaneous wiring is done as well. I finally have am A/C button and the light finally lights up behind the climate controls. Engine bay looks better as I finally removed unnecessary plugs and cleaning up the wiring. But I also need a little pep talk from you guys. So I'm going to be installing an ARB air locker next month. I have all the tools to do it but I'm really thinking of sending it to Zuk since he knows what he's doing and this will be my first time. But I'm having a problem with not wanting to spend the money; do you guys think I can handle it if I take my time and follow Zuk's right up or should I just send it?

 

[pappy]

But I also need a little pep talk from you guys. So I'm going to be installing an ARB air locker next month. I have all the tools to do it but I'm really thinking of sending it to Zuk since he knows what he's doing and this will be my first time. But I'm having a problem with not wanting to spend the money; do you guys think I can handle it if I take my time and follow Zuk's right up or should I just send it?

For the most part NOBODY touches my truck. That said there are three things I won't do, regardless of my skill-set. I won't rebuild an engine, but I will pull it, strip it, and take it to a shop. I won't rebuild a transmission, but I will drop it. And I won't rebuild a diff, but I will pull it. I leave those three tasks to the pros.

 

[KLF]

Doing diffs is really not that hard. I've done 2 ARB installs, the hardest part is getting the courage to drill and tap the housing. It's much easier with mini truck diffs, I also had to grind the teeth a little on my new 4.88s to get the cross pin to go back in with the Cruiser.

 

[KLF]

If you decide to do the ARBs yourself, I highly recommend you make a testing setup like this, so you can test the ARB for leakage while it's still on the bench:

It attaches to the fitting on the housing, you put 90 psi of shop air on it to lock the ARB, then you close the valve and disconnect shop air. Let it sit for 10-15 mins, the ARB should stay locked. If not, you have a leak.

 

[Mudder]

I have the same feeling as Pappy with something but I also enjoy doing new stuff. That's the main reason I'd send it to Zuk, he know what he's doing so the locker would be set up correctly. But if I do end up doing it I'll fore sure do that KLF, thank you for that suggestion

 

[Mudder]

Well it is running. Only problem is it when I try to go above 20 mph it then acts like it's gonna cut out. And it is out it in all gears. Where before I could take 2nd to 40 it now will only go to 30 then I have to shift gears. Running is dead on 5*BTDC with t1 and e1 jumped. Checked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. Any other ideas?