The Cursed Build

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Recently I had a W56C go out on me so I swapped a W56B in its place. I know Toyota built their stuff to last but I'm worried now, the W56B had 230k when I pulled it and I'm currently planning on driving this truck from Washington to Utah and back for school and I'm wondering; if you guys were in my place would you buy a new W56 from Marlin just to be safe or run it until it breaks? It makes no odd noises unless I’m doing 70+ then when I put it in neutral there is a grinding noise and that’s why I’m concerned. An no I won’t be doing any higher than 70 as I did it once, saw how sary it was and don’t want to do it again. I won't have anywhere to work on my truck in Utah so I'd like to avoid it failing.
 
Figure I'd give a little bit of an update. I got the sliders installed and painted. I used Rustolum paint and primer. I love the look and added protection. Went to the mountains today to play around and now a snorkel is on my list. Went through a water hole and was on my way out when I had an oh s*** moment as water bounced off the side of the hole and went into the air filter. Emptied the TB out and it ran fine and hasn't missed a beat. So I figured it was time for one. I'm going with a safari snorkel. I'm also going to put a rear locker in the back. And install and ARB air compressor as I love airing down but need to air back up. Which means I'm having a debate on either a grizzly locker or an ARB locker. Both will be a fully assembled unit from Marlin. I'm leaving towards the grizzly as I don't mind an automatic locker and the snow and ice driving concerns don't bother me. But for $500 more I can get an ARB. So the debate continues. I'd go an E-locker but don't have the tools to modify my rear axle. Any input on the lockers would be great. As I've done hours of reading but still would like more input.
 
ARB and don't look back. Speaking from experience those "automatic" lockers suck, especially if you daily drive the truck at all. I have an ARB in the back of the 4Runner and love it. I have a "lunch-box" locker in the FJ40 and it really, really, sucks. When I get the coin I have a spare diff that will get the ARB treatment.
 
Agreed, if the money is there, get an ARB. I have run many cheap auto lockers like the old EZ locker and Lock Right. Although they ride better then a welded diff and they get the job done on the trail, there is no comparison to a selectable when on road. That said, I'm cheap, and if it is a truck that sees the road only to get to the trail then your right.... The debate continues!
 
I was leaning towards a selectable because of the road manners but I also know that an auto locker is less like to cause problems.
 
Here's a picture of the slider on my truck. Passenger and drivers are the same so I only took one. The front mount I had to cut the leg at 10* for the bend in the frame

IMG_20160320_134130294_HDR.webp
 
Well I could smell gear oil today and found out my left wheeling bearing is going. At first I figured I blew an axle seal since I extended the differential breathers but its not that since the shaft has at least .25" of play in it. Time for a new one from MC when I get the chance.
 
With my future plan of installing air lockers I've thought of one issue, I have extended breathers that are pretty small, the hose is 7/16 I believe, I'll double check tomorrow. Do you guys think I need a bigger one, around a 1/4 nipple for when the air gets released?
 
With my future plan of installing air lockers I've thought of one issue, I have extended breathers that are pretty small, the hose is 7/16 I believe, I'll double check tomorrow. Do you guys think I need a bigger one, around a 1/4 nipple for when the air gets released?
No.
 
Went wheeling tonight and found out that whenever I take my truck through water, typically muddy, and I shut it off then the starter just clicks. But if I pull off the little spade connector and take a wire from my battery to the starter it'll fire right up. Not really sure what the problem is though
 
Figured I'd post some rambling here about lockers. I keep going back and forth on arb or grizzly. I won't look at the price difference, I need on board air anyways as well. But I keep looking at simplicity. The grizzly I don't have air lines or any of that. Yes I will be driving on snowy and icy roads but I can learn to change driving habits. But I do love the control you get with an ARB. This is for the rear too. The front for sure will get an ARB.
 
My thought is that if you are already putting an ARB up front, you might as well put one in back too.
 
For those of you running an ARB, what spare parts do you bring with you to the trail? Thats the part that keeps getting me. If my front locker didn't want to work that's one thing but I'd like my rear to be extremely reliable
 
For those of you running an ARB, what spare parts do you bring with you to the trail?

Good question. When I travel to Baja I carry lots of spare parts. Stuff for the ARB is not on the list. So, nothing.
 
Thank you Pappy, that's what I was figuring but just wanted to make sure.
 
ARB, as we all know, is a very reliable product. I agree with Kris that if your putting an ARB up front why not also the rear?.... That said, if you really just want a locked rear all the time, then I say get assurance while saving money and get a mechanical locker.
 
Thank you Pappy, that's what I was figuring but just wanted to make sure.
Realistically, about the only thing you could carry is the air line.
 
I've seen the bulkhead fittings fail where it passes through the diff housing.
 
I had heard about that, and most said it was just the o ring.
 
So I finally did a compression check. Still trying to find a leak down, cylinder 1 & 2 came out to 145 cylinder 3 155 and cylinder 4...well 105. Not really sure what to do here. I'm planning on doing the top end for sure. Now I'm wondering should I pull the engine take it to a machine shop have 'em do the bottom end so that way it's just done or?
 

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