Builds "The Cucumber" build. Ultimate 80-series. 1HD-FT, H152F (world's first), PTO. Titanium and carbon fiber galore. (1 Viewer)

[bottombracket]

Dennis, did you have to replace the input shaft on the h152?

 

[TurboDennis]

I know on some transmissions first gear isn't synchronized, so it helps to double clutch when you shift into first, even if you're not moving at all. Just let the clutch out in neutral for a second then try to shift in first.

First gear on H152 is synchronized. But i still tried the double clutch trick and it makes no difference. Most of the time it goes into first gear fine , but about 25% of the time it will only go in "half way". I need to start releasing the clutch, as i keep pressure on the shifter, and it will pop in with a little grinding.

Dennis, did you have to replace the input shaft on the h152?

Of course. I will post all the details on modifications soon.

However i never touched the 1st gear in the tranny.

 

[Workhorse]

Dennis,
Have you gotten anywhere with the transmission issue? Can you adjust the plunger rod out further to alleviate this difficulty going into first gear?

I’m super curious about RPMs with the H152

Have you run the ST Maxx before? What’re your thoughts and impressions? Great in snow and ice? Super loud or not so much?

Again, very nice clean work!

 

[CrustyRusty]

Hey dennis.

I had this exact same first gear grinding problem in an Hj61 with a 12HT and H55F. Before the problem showed up I had the fly wheel ground and the step re-machined into it, I also installed a new clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, pilot bearing and throw out bearing. I battled this problem for over a year, probably bled a gallon of fluid through the system trying to get rid of air bubbles. I droped the transmission again and changed out the pilot bearing a second time. I replaced the slave and master again and the problem got worse! Ryan from hill top Cruisers suggested I hadn't bench bled the master correctly and I should order another. So I order yeat another master put fluid in all its openings, let it soak for an entire day and then verrrrry gently bench bled it. After installing the 3rd master the problem was gone. To be fair I bench bled all the masters before installing them but the third one I bench bled just about as gently as you'd give a babby bird CPR

 

[TurboDennis]

Dennis,
Have you gotten anywhere with the transmission issue? Can you adjust the plunger rod out further to alleviate this difficulty going into first gear?

I’m super curious about RPMs with the H152

Have you run the ST Maxx before? What’re your thoughts and impressions? Great in snow and ice? Super loud or not so much?

Again, very nice clean work!

Not yet. Although it feels a bit better now after driving it around a bit. Still not how i expect a brand new transmission to shift.

I took it out on a highway for the first time today (was super busy this past week and haven't had the time), and will post the results later today or tomorrow. I will bundle them in the same post as the tranny modifications.

Hey dennis.

I had this exact same first gear grinding problem in an Hj61 with a 12HT and H55F. Before the problem showed up I had the fly wheel ground and the step re-machined into it, I also installed a new clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, pilot bearing and throw out bearing. I battled this problem for over a year, probably bled a gallon of fluid through the system trying to get rid of air bubbles. I droped the transmission again and changed out the pilot bearing a second time. I replaced the slave and master again and the problem got worse! Ryan from hill top Cruisers suggested I hadn't bench bled the master correctly and I should order another. So I order yeat another master put fluid in all its openings, let it soak for an entire day and then verrrrry gently bench bled it. After installing the 3rd master the problem was gone. To be fair I bench bled all the masters before installing them but the third one I bench bled just about as gently as you'd give a babby bird CPR

Thanks for the suggestion, Russ. I was actually leaning towards this as well, as the clutch pedal feels VERY soft. Much softer than what i would expect on a truck like this. Its actually softer than my wife's Yaris. I have a power vacuum brake bleeder (same thing as dealerships use) that does an amazing job bleeding brakes. I used it on the clutch slave as well, but i didnt bench bleed them (either master or slave). Is there any reason why you bought new master cylinder (tiwce!) instead of just removing and bench bleeding the one you had on?




Anyway, i decided to stop flooding this thread with pictures and text, and combine them from now on.

Here are the mods i did to the truck to accept the manual tranny. I mostly used a similar approach as @Rock40 , with some improvements (in my opinion). Certainly not the easiest or the quickest way to do these mods, but i wanted to do them in the cleanest, most original way possible.

 

[CrustyRusty]

Not yet. Although it feels a bit better now after driving it around a bit. Still not how i expect a brand new transmission to shift.

I took it out on a highway for the first time today (was super busy this past week and haven't had the time), and will post the results later today or tomorrow. I will bundle them in the same post as the tranny modifications.



Thanks for the suggestion, Russ. I was actually leaning towards this as well, as the clutch pedal feels VERY soft. Much softer than what i would expect on a truck like this. Its actually softer than my wife's Yaris. I have a power vacuum brake bleeder (same thing as dealerships use) that does an amazing job bleeding brakes. I used it on the clutch slave as well, but i didnt bench bleed them (either master or slave). Is there any reason why you bought new master cylinder (tiwce!) instead of just removing and bench bleeding the one you had on?




Anyway, i decided to stop flooding this thread with pictures and text, and combine them from now on.

Here are the mods i did to the truck to accept the manual tranny. I mostly used a similar approach as @Rock40 , with some improvements (in my opinion). Certainly not the easiest or the quickest way to do these mods, but i wanted to do them in the cleanest, most original way possible.

View attachment 2123313

View attachment 2123314

View attachment 2123315

View attachment 2123316

View attachment 2123317

Dennis.

there are too major reasons to preform a bench bleed. #1 remove air #2 is to get fluid lubricating the sealing surfaces of the master before force and pressure are applied. if you do not bench bleed a cylinder that has been siting on a shelf for years on end what happens is the piston seal sticks to the cylinder wall and will tear or get damaged the first time you stomp on the pedal. in both instances the masters had damaged seals which I discovered after dissembling them. Both cylinders were brand new Aisin cylinders. for the third cylinder I filled all the hydraulic openings with fluid and let that fluid seep in for over 24 hours. then slowly bench bled it and when I say slow I mean sloooooow. The point of the bench bleed was more to work fluid through the cylinder and get it lubricated then removing air. I very much doubt your pedal should feel soft, the 60, 70, and 80 series manual cruiser I have driven all have had heavy clutches even with vacuum assist. For what my opinion is worth I think you either have air in your line (best case scenario) or your master is damaged, either from lack of lubrication on its first few pumps if its new or old age assuming its not new. Just to drive this point home I have seen the same scenario happen on a friends 1992 80 series break master. hope that information is somewhat helpful or at least gives you something to think about

 

[TurboDennis]

Dennis.

there are too major reasons to preform a bench bleed. #1 remove air #2 is to get fluid lubricating the sealing surfaces of the master before force and pressure are applied. if you do not bench bleed a cylinder that has been siting on a shelf for years on end what happens is the piston seal sticks to the cylinder wall and will tear or get damaged the first time you stomp on the pedal. in both instances the masters had damaged seals which I discovered after dissembling them. Both cylinders were brand new Aisin cylinders. for the third cylinder I filled all the hydraulic openings with fluid and let that fluid seep in for over 24 hours. then slowly bench bled it and when I say slow I mean sloooooow. The point of the bench bleed was more to work fluid through the cylinder and get it lubricated then removing air. I very much doubt your pedal should feel soft, the 60, 70, and 80 series manual cruiser I have driven all have had heavy clutches even with vacuum assist. For what my opinion is worth I think you either have air in your line (best case scenario) or your master is damaged, either from lack of lubrication on its first few pumps if its new or old age assuming its not new. Just to drive this point home I have seen the same scenario happen on a friends 1992 80 series break master. hope that information is somewhat helpful or at least gives you something to think about

Thanks Russ, that makes sense. I will try pulling the master cylinder, inspecting it and bench bleeding. If that doesnt work, i'll order a new one. Probably won't have the time to do it before the winter begins, so i likely won't know whether or not it fixed my shifting issue until the snow/salt is gone in the spring.


Anyway.. Here's the H152 mini write up and first impressions.

The transmission, part number 33030-60C51 (superseded from 33030-60C50) is only available for VDJ7* trucks. At the time when i ordered it, it was only available in Australia and New Zeland (dont know if that's still the case)
I did a lot of research before buying it, and i could not find any evidence of anyone installing one into an 80, but a lot of VDJ guys have swapped their H150 for one. So i assumed it was the same externally as the H150 (which was also available on 80 series) and decided to give it a try.

Obviously the 1VD is shorter than 1HD, so the bell housing and the input shaft had to be longer on the H152 to "reach" the engine.

When i got the tranny, i noticed that the front bearing retainer was also longer on the H152 to accommodate the longer input shaft.

So i ordered a brand new H151 input shaft (33301-60060), new input shaft bearing and a selection of bearing retaining snap rings (they come in 5 thicknesses). I had a used bearing retainer from H151. The reason for new bearing is that it's impossible to remove the bearing from the input shaft without applying a lot of pressure on the outer race, so i didnt feel good about reusing it (although it looked and felt OK after removal).

So i proceeded to disassemble the brand new transmission (voiding the warranty!) It felt weird, but i took comfort in the fact that i wasn't gonna ship it back to Australia for warranty anyway, if there was ever an issue with it.

To replace the input shaft, you have to remove the countershaft, which means the transmission has to be disassembled almost completely into main components. I just followed the H151 FSM for disassembly and assembly and it went smooth.

There are 2 external differences VS H151.
1) An extra mystery sensor on H152 (H151 only has one sensor - for back up lights). This sensor has continuity in all gears except 1st. Anyone has any idea what it is for?
2) The 4 holes for the transfer case shifter are smaller on H152 (M8 VS M10). I machined 4 10mm to 8mm reducing bushings and used M8 bolts to mount the H151 t-case shifter.
Other that that, the trannies are identical externally.


First impressions on driving the truck with this tranny are great(except the shifting issues that im having, which are probably unrelated to the tranny itself). I heard some reports of people complaining that 5th is TOO tall for under-powered trucks. In my case (no extra weight on the truck, 33" tires, factory 4.10 gearing and 1HD-FT with FTE turbo, running stock boost) that didnt feel like the case at all. Truck has enough torque to accelerate at a reasonable rate even at 80km/h in 5th gear. At 100km/h it feels even better. It doesnt feel like its struggling at all at any speed on the highway. I cant comment on fuel economy yet (and probably wont be able to until spring). I also have a boost gauge i need to install to take some readings as well.

Speedometer is off by about 5% due to bigger tires. Bellow readings are actual speed, measured by GPS:
100km/h - ~2050 RPM
110km/h - ~2250 RPM
120km/h - ~2450 RPM

Cant say im liking 1st gear for city driving (too short), but its a good trade-off (in my opinion) for significantly better crawl ratio.

Cooper ST MAXX are awesome. I usually run Goodyear duratracs on most of my trucks that see mostly city driving. Unfortunately duratracs arent made in the size that i wanted for this LC (255/85/16). There are VERY few choices in that size. So i gave coopers a try and so far im impressed. Noise level is about the same as duratracs (low), however they are supposed to perform much better in off-road conditions. The trade off is that they arent "severe snow" rated like the duratracs, but it's not going to be an issue for me because this truck wont be driven in the snow anyway.

 

[TurboDennis]

Hopefully i can get a bit more testing in before winter.

Couple of issues im having (other than shifting):

-For some reason the truck has NO heat. Heater valve (as well as all hoses, water pump, radiator, thermostat) are brand new OEM. Heater valve opens as it should. Blower fan and HVAC controls work great. However there is only cold air coming out from the vents. Im thinking that the heater core is clogged? Could it be anything else?

-Does anyone have a picture of the vacuum line routing from vacuum pump to brake booster on, LHD HDJ80? Currently i have a rubber line running from the vacuum pump straight to the booster. I have a vacuum reservoir and a hard metal vacuum line that is supposed to mount on the inner fender somewhere, but i cant figure out where exactly.

Edit: No heat issue is quite puzzling, as i just tested the rear heater and it doesnt work either (blowing cold air).

 

[beaas]

Thank you for sharing the info.

I’m thinking (dreaming...) of putting the same tranny into my euro 1995 hdj80, factory with the ft engine and h151f. You are the first I know of that have done it!

With the 3,73 gearing I’ll be at about 9% higher speed at the same rpm’s and 33 tires (285/70-17). With the gturbo and a few other mods I think that will be nice!

 

[Workhorse]

Dennis,

Have a look at the attached images. They show where and how the vacuum reservoir and hard metal line is routed. Let me know if you need better photos, this is what I could get quickly.

 

[Workhorse]

I like the data you've put together so far. Sounds like it runs very nicely.

"Speedometer is off by about 5% due to bigger tires. Bellow readings are actual speed, measured by GPS:
100km/h - ~2050 RPM
110km/h - ~2250 RPM
120km/h - ~2450 RPM"

My 80 has 315/75R16's tires and 3:70 gears, also actual speed by GPS:
100km/h - ~2150 RPM
110km/h - ~2350 RPM
120km/h - ~2550 RPM

I'd love to ditch my 315's for 295's or even possibly 285's but retain the overdrive highway gearing. Keep us informed of your driving test(s) and whether you encounter any mountainous hills or similar to see how the H152 reacts/responds. I think you're doing a really great job with this and thank you for all of your documentation and willingness to share with us. Keep up the clean and solid work.

 

[TurboDennis]

Dennis,

Have a look at the attached images. They show where and how the vacuum reservoir and hard metal line is routed. Let me know if you need better photos, this is what I could get quickly.

Thanks Ross, thats EXTREMELY helpful. I was able to install my hard line and reservoir yesterday thanks to these pics.

Any chance you could take a look at something else for me? If you're using OEM starter relay with two round 2-wire connectors, could you give me the 5-digit numbers from those female connectors (on the truck side, not the relay side). Im trying to buy the correct connectors to wire up the OEM starter relay, but having trouble finding their part numbers.

I like the data you've put together so far. Sounds like it runs very nicely.

"Speedometer is off by about 5% due to bigger tires. Bellow readings are actual speed, measured by GPS:
100km/h - ~2050 RPM
110km/h - ~2250 RPM
120km/h - ~2450 RPM"

My 80 has 315/75R16's tires and 3:70 gears, also actual speed by GPS:
100km/h - ~2150 RPM
110km/h - ~2350 RPM
120km/h - ~2550 RPM

I'd love to ditch my 315's for 295's or even possibly 285's but retain the overdrive highway gearing. Keep us informed of your driving test(s) and whether you encounter any mountainous hills or similar to see how the H152 reacts/responds. I think you're doing a really great job with this and thank you for all of your documentation and willingness to share with us. Keep up the clean and solid work.

That's some great data. I was actually considering going with 3:70's as well, before i found out about the H152 option. The downside of 3:70's is crawl ratio and cost. You can probably downsize the tires and compensate by adding overdrive transfer case gearing.
If you were to go with H152, i think your gearing on the highway would be WAY too tall with 3:70 final drive.



I woke up this morning to find this outside:

So im probably done with the testing for the season...

I was able to get a bit more interesting data yesterday, though. I jerry-rigged a boost gauge and i was really impressed with the FTE turbo. It gets up to 1.0 BAR (14.7PSI) boost, and gets there FAST and early. Hits that boost by about 1750-1800 RPM. I haven't done anything to IP or the turbo. Pretty impressive considering that the factory 1HD-FT turbo only goes up to 0.6 Bar or so.

I think this might be one of the reasons why the 5th gear feels just perfect with my setup.

 

[quasi]

hey Dennis, there is a door in the heater box that blocks off airflow through the heater core. that can bind causing a no-heat issue. you can access the linkage by removing the stereo. a quick check to make sure it's moving.

 

[mtntoys]

Great build. Toyota might use the "mystery sensor" to signal the 1VD to have a torque reduction when the transmission is in 1st gear. Heavy duty OEMs have torque reductions when a manual transmission is in lower gears to prevent over loading the powertrain.

 

[Workhorse]

This is exactly what I’ve read in another thread on LCOOL regarding an H152 in a guy’s VDJ7*.

Great build. Toyota might use the "mystery sensor" to signal the 1VD to have a torque reduction when the transmission is in 1st gear. Heavy duty OEMs have torque reductions when a manual transmission is in lower gears to prevent over loading the powertrain.

 

[TheSandman326]

Dennis fantastic write up on your build. Feel lucky enough i live in a country where these come off the showroom floor.

The mystery sensor that everyones speaking about is in fact a power reduction for 1st gear only in the VDJ* models.
I couldnt find any mention of this in any new car features on toyota repair manuals however it is listed in the data list on ecu.

Having driven a VDJ79 with the gearbox harness disconnected, (i had just replaced engine assy on a mine spec vehicle), its a godsend that this was added, it dampens throttle input i found, as the v8 simply just bunnyhops along as such.

 

[TurboDennis]

So i figured it was time for an update.

After taking some much needed time off from working on this project most of the summer/fall, i have resumed the work.

-In my pursuit of the cleanest 1HD swap ever, im considering a pretty radical approach. I have sourced COMPLETE wiring, from an entire truck - 1996 HDJ80 with LHD, Manual tranny. Im planning to swap it all into my truck. I figured this would be cleaner, and easier than trying to wire all the numerous little HDJ-specific gadgets separately.

-Im having trouble sourcing the correct tachometer from an MTM, NON-EGR 1HD-FT. What i decided to try (for now anyway) is to make the ATM tachometer that i have work. Will not go into details for now (until i have actual data to share), but the idea is to measure/analyze the different square wave signal of the EGR/ATM tachometer and replicate that signal on my truck (which has neither EGR nor ATM) to make it work.

- Yesterday i replaced the clutch master cylinder with a new one, and bled it very thoroughly. Hopefully this will solve my shifting issues. What i had on the truck was a master cylinder that i bought for my 1FZ Manual swap project earlier. I assumed the cylinder was the same as the 1HD-one, because the transmissions and clutch assemblies are identical. Interestingly, this is not the case. 1HD unit has an "accumulator" on it which the 1FZ cylinder does not have. The 1FZ one also has some sort of gizmo (dampener maybe?) at the end of the push rod.

-Yanked the transfer case out of the truck yesterday. The PTO transfer case that i have has unknown mileage, so i will take all the internals from my non-PTO HF2AV and swap them into the PTO HF2AV case, along with a complete rebuild.

-Spent a ridiculous amount of money on a lot of new OEM parts that i don't currently need, but im paranoid about them becoming discontinued so i've decided to buy them while it's still possible.



HF2AV transfer case with the PTO unit.
Most of the PTO cases were HF1. HF2A cases are very rare. HF2AV (which is what i wanted) are nearly non-existent and it took me A LONG time, and a lot of money to find one.

The wiring mess that im going to be swapping into my truck. This is going to be a lot of fun....

Clutch master cylinders. FZJ80 on the bottom, HDJ80 on the top.
I also sourced a used clutch pedal with vacuum booster which i might try later on.

When i was installing the engine, i kinked one of the metal heater pipes coming out of the firewall. I was able to straighten it out and it didnt leak, but i wanted to replace it. Turns out those 2 pipes are discontinued by Toyota, and the only way to get them is to purchase the entire heater box assembly. Pricey, but i was going to replace the heater core anyway (which is included with the assembly) as part of my restoration project. I have it on good authority that this assembly is about to become discontinued as well, so i had to get it while i still can.

 

[SOAZtim]

Dennis,
Just checking this out with some crappy Argentinian internet and the wiring work alone scares me. When you factor in the whole project it's just damn impressive.
Cheers!

 

[IoN6]

There has to be other differences than the obvious external one in the FZJ and HDJ master cylinders, right?

 

[thelal]

...New leather upholstery with cooled and heated seats ..

Interested in what options you've seen here as planing Africa and other 'warm' countries in the future