Unless you're in the middle of nowhere when it goes kaboom and the tow costs as much as the truck lol
If it was a street truck then I'd drive it til the radiator sprung a leak to save the most $.
Last edited:
The "Complete Parts List" for 180K Service (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter abuck99
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Unless you're in the middle of nowhere when it goes kaboom and the tow costs as much as the truck lol
If it was a street truck then I'd drive it til the radiator sprung a leak to save the most $.
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2014
- Threads
- 94
- Messages
- 3,045
- Location
- Little Rock, Arkansas
- Website
- www.facebook.com
The best time to replace your radiator is when it explodes??? Seriously? I understand that depends on the circumstance, but if that's the only time you would replace your radiator then more power to you!
I understand it too.
I was at a Dunkin donuts drive thru when it ruptured.
I do like the OP list, and with a '98 model truck, I've been changing out much of the items.
I think I'm going to carry a spare radiator...
I was at a Dunkin donuts drive thru when it ruptured.
I do like the OP list, and with a '98 model truck, I've been changing out much of the items.
I think I'm going to carry a spare radiator...
I imagine he was being overly dramatic. Radiators dont just explode unless they cooling system is way over pressurized.
So, yes, I only replace radiators when they start to leak, not before.
If you're replacing your radiator because of age then you better be replacing your heater core too, after all it is the same age/miles as the radiator.
Yes. I was just being funny.
The rest of the story is my radiator violently ruptured, because the previous owner DID NOT do the kind of preventative maintenance outlined by the OP. An overpressure situation occurred with an 18 year old plastic radiator.
I appreciate the list and the time it likely took to compile. Pinned so I can find the page. Only thing I would add is the other rubber stuff like vacuum lines and fuel lines.
The rest of the story is my radiator violently ruptured, because the previous owner DID NOT do the kind of preventative maintenance outlined by the OP. An overpressure situation occurred with an 18 year old plastic radiator.
I appreciate the list and the time it likely took to compile. Pinned so I can find the page. Only thing I would add is the other rubber stuff like vacuum lines and fuel lines.
Only a fatalist can own a land rover. Its when the leaks stop is when a Land Rover owner worries. Haha
I should post up my list of parts from my recent job to compare with OPs. I ended up buying far more parts than I thought I needed when I started the job. This list is awesome. Nice work.
On the PM vs replace when it breaks:
I think replacing when it fails outright makes sense for most people. For me though, I wheel in very remote places on occasion. It's why I bought the car. I'm commonly in places that would be a $500-1000+ tow bill if anything were to happen. That's assuming I'm with a buddy to get me back into cell range in the first place. I normally am, but not always. I wheel less often right now because I've got an infant, but I think I'm just transitioning into a new situation where it's even more crucial I don't have to jump in a tow truck cabin with my baby to get my rig home because a hose blew, a pulley bearing seized, fan clutch died or radiator failed. 5 years ago? Yeah, whatever, let it fail and I'll fix it then. Now? I'll spend an extra $500 on a once every 10 year service to replace a few extra things "just in case".
One thing that I noticed was that all my belt bearings were bad. Every. Single. One. They all made noise. I knew I had at least one bad one before because I could hear something. I had no idea they would all be audibly whirring and grinding when spun by hand. The engine now runs noticeably quieter. That alone is worth something to me.
I opted to replace the radiator because I was already in there with coolant drained and the fan clutch out. My radiator had 255k miles on it (far as I knew) and the plastic was showing stress cracking all over. No leaks, but I'd expect them in the next ~50k miles.
I think that's a little different though, isn't it? The radiator is exposed to the elements while driving and sees higher surrounding temps (at least that's what I'd guess). The heater core sees coolant temps, but it's secluded from the engine bay. I have no data to back it up, but in my imagination the heater core should have an easier life. If I'm ever behind the dash of an older (~10 years, 100k+ miles) car though? I'm absolutely replacing the heater core every time, regardless of the current one's condition. That's a terrible pain to get to and a small cost in parts relative to the labor should it fail later. Similar idea to why I replaced all the parts i did in my TB job, I guess. I try to bundle as much work as possible. I end up doing fewer jobs, but each one is a bigger project. I prefer it that way, but I'm sure others want to minimize wrench time and parts cost as much as possible and that's understandable.
Of course, I'm also a bit odd in that reassembling a vehicle is therapeutic for me. Putting on new or cleaned parts is actually enjoyable where putting back dirty worn parts feels unsatisfying. It's an irrational enjoyment I get out of car work and definitely slows me down and hurts my wallet, but the end result is worth it, IMO.
On the PM vs replace when it breaks:
I think replacing when it fails outright makes sense for most people. For me though, I wheel in very remote places on occasion. It's why I bought the car. I'm commonly in places that would be a $500-1000+ tow bill if anything were to happen. That's assuming I'm with a buddy to get me back into cell range in the first place. I normally am, but not always. I wheel less often right now because I've got an infant, but I think I'm just transitioning into a new situation where it's even more crucial I don't have to jump in a tow truck cabin with my baby to get my rig home because a hose blew, a pulley bearing seized, fan clutch died or radiator failed. 5 years ago? Yeah, whatever, let it fail and I'll fix it then. Now? I'll spend an extra $500 on a once every 10 year service to replace a few extra things "just in case".
One thing that I noticed was that all my belt bearings were bad. Every. Single. One. They all made noise. I knew I had at least one bad one before because I could hear something. I had no idea they would all be audibly whirring and grinding when spun by hand. The engine now runs noticeably quieter. That alone is worth something to me.
I opted to replace the radiator because I was already in there with coolant drained and the fan clutch out. My radiator had 255k miles on it (far as I knew) and the plastic was showing stress cracking all over. No leaks, but I'd expect them in the next ~50k miles.
I think that's a little different though, isn't it? The radiator is exposed to the elements while driving and sees higher surrounding temps (at least that's what I'd guess). The heater core sees coolant temps, but it's secluded from the engine bay. I have no data to back it up, but in my imagination the heater core should have an easier life. If I'm ever behind the dash of an older (~10 years, 100k+ miles) car though? I'm absolutely replacing the heater core every time, regardless of the current one's condition. That's a terrible pain to get to and a small cost in parts relative to the labor should it fail later. Similar idea to why I replaced all the parts i did in my TB job, I guess. I try to bundle as much work as possible. I end up doing fewer jobs, but each one is a bigger project. I prefer it that way, but I'm sure others want to minimize wrench time and parts cost as much as possible and that's understandable.
Of course, I'm also a bit odd in that reassembling a vehicle is therapeutic for me. Putting on new or cleaned parts is actually enjoyable where putting back dirty worn parts feels unsatisfying. It's an irrational enjoyment I get out of car work and definitely slows me down and hurts my wallet, but the end result is worth it, IMO.
Was a tech for 10 years and never had anyone come in to replace parts that were still functioning properly. I am kind of envious of the OP having that kind of FU money laying around to buy all those unnecessary things. I'm with spike on this one. PM maintenance is one thing but replacing parts because they havnt broken yet is silly. It's like replacing an oil filter in between oil changes. I'm staring down doing my T belt now will certainly use SOME of those part numbers so thank you OP for the list.
- Thread starter
- #49
Thats the great thing of it; pick & choose what you think is necessary for how you use your truck and your budget. There really is no right or wrong, just proactive vs reactive approach. FU money- funny. FU money is G-Wagon parts & maintenance
. I think the ardent the "wait till it breaks" guys totally missed the context of the thread. The intended use of your truck dictates how you'll want to maintain it. This comprehensive list is simply a reference tool that highlights replacing wear item parts which are more common/known failure components approaching 200k+ in service miles as well as evaluating the reasonable life of key service components at 12-15-19 yrs of age. My PM routine is more of a deep dive because the intended use of my truck is self supported remote use- back country- away from easy access to service & support. The needs for a DD are vastly different and don't call for near the same the level of PM.
My HDJ100 rolled 490.000 the other day. Parts broken until today: 1 wheel bearing front left. And yes its a heavy vehicle. Carries while overlanding almost 300l diesel, bumpers, whinch and what not.
I will replace soon a radiator, due to corrosion.
Besides the timing belt and all oils I do very cheap but effective maintenance: Lube all the other stuff on the truck. I mean door hinges, steering column, door locks, window regulators, sunroof, seat mechanism. That stuff is the only problem after you will face. But use the right lube. White lith grease, ATF and silicone lube are your best friends.
I will replace soon a radiator, due to corrosion.
Besides the timing belt and all oils I do very cheap but effective maintenance: Lube all the other stuff on the truck. I mean door hinges, steering column, door locks, window regulators, sunroof, seat mechanism. That stuff is the only problem after you will face. But use the right lube. White lith grease, ATF and silicone lube are your best friends.
my factory antenna is busted off at the base of the mast, what is the best replacement for this?
[QUOTE="fisherman978
You probably should have started a new tread.
Is any part of the antenna still sticking out?
Is any part of the antenna still sticking out?
So my question, where do I get this 20 year radiator that is only made of brass/copper to put in my 100?
Couldn't resist.
So my question, where do I get this 20 year radiator that is only made of brass/copper to put in my 100?
Couldn't resist.
Any good radiator shop can build you one. Or all aluminum if you want.
If you bring them a used one they will have all the dimensions they need to, only takes them a day.
A year after the last post, two days before Christmas trip of 400 miles, damned Heater T failure. Stealership has the T’s, a few new clips. NO hoses. They’re back ordered!!
Parts availability is the key reason to anticipate repairs.
However a hint in my case was buying preformed heater hoses based on the bends, not intended use. I simply laid out my old parts and built new sections. I also bought 2’ of 1/2” and 5/8” bulk hose in case the rear heat repair fails. The T-s appear to just divert to that rear system. Worst case bulk hose direct from block to main heat ports on firewall.
I’ll just add that with lists like those provided, you know more than really uneducated parts people. (Bless their hearts).
Nothing worse than a Frankenstein wagon of parts but getting safely to your destination on your resourceful thinking is satisfying. Seeing happy Christmas faces and family delivered to grandma was the reward.
Parts availability is the key reason to anticipate repairs.
However a hint in my case was buying preformed heater hoses based on the bends, not intended use. I simply laid out my old parts and built new sections. I also bought 2’ of 1/2” and 5/8” bulk hose in case the rear heat repair fails. The T-s appear to just divert to that rear system. Worst case bulk hose direct from block to main heat ports on firewall.
I’ll just add that with lists like those provided, you know more than really uneducated parts people. (Bless their hearts).
Nothing worse than a Frankenstein wagon of parts but getting safely to your destination on your resourceful thinking is satisfying. Seeing happy Christmas faces and family delivered to grandma was the reward.
@abuck99 Thanks for the list! I've been referencing it quite a bit. Some of us use our trucks offroad for days/weeks at a time often thousands of miles from home, so replacing critical wear parts when they fail isn't the most viable plan. To each their own though.
This needs to be added to the FAQ. there is a 90k parts list, but not a more extensive one.
This needs to be added to the FAQ. there is a 90k parts list, but not a more extensive one.
I can't even keep up with the things that actually need fixing on my 330xi
@abuck99 I'm a new owner of a beautiful 04 LC100, and it looks that the previous owner neglected maintenance and ever interior care. Your list was really helpful to buy original parts and star fresh with a maintenance record. Preventive maintenance give me a peace of mine that worth way more that the $200 that I spent on parts.
Thank you very much
Thank you very much
