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The "Complete Parts List" for 180K Service

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by abuck99, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. abuck99

    abuck99

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    Getting a parts list together for my 180K Timing Belt Service (I'm at 185k now so its time to get it knocked out). My service approach on my 100 has been to replace with OEM parts wherever possible even down to the fasteners. I know there are some parts equivalents available through AISIN or DENSO that are OES spec and I would consider those to save a few $$ where it makes sense (like the radiator).

    The plan is to maintain it to the best standard I can afford by replacing key components ahead of failure (the parts that make sense for long term reliable service for the next 10yrs/100k). I take some trips off the grid in the heat of summer and I want to reduce the possibility of mechanical breakdown 50 miles from pavement (or days sitting and waiting on parts) due to a simple part like an aged $20 radiator hose, or a fatigued plastic heater T.

    So as I compile my mega list I'm trying to determine what the reasonable life of certain rubber & plastic parts are at 12-13yrs and 185k + miles. So heres my "while I'm in there" list I have put together and wanted feedback on what might be missing?

    My radiator is starting to discolor and showing signs of "crazing" small micro cracks on the top. Could it go another 10-20-30k? probably but is it worth testing that against engine failure for a $170 part? On the oil cooler hoses, and bypass hoses: have there been any reported failures of these at 200k?

    Heres the list thus far: this is for a 2005 Non-AHC 100 (some earlier and later years call for different parts so if you are copying this list for your truck double check parts against your model year)

    TIMING BELT COMPONENTS
    Timing Belt 13568-09070
    Idler Sub-Assy, Timing Belt, NO.1 13505-0F010
    Idler Sub-Assy, Timing Belt, NO.2 13503-0F010
    Tensioner Assy, Chain, No.1; Tensioner Assy, Timing Belt 13540-50030
    L & R Camshaft seal (2) (SEAL, OIL FOR CAMSHAFT SETTING) 90311-38065
    Front Crank seal ( SEAL, FOR OIL PUMP) 90311-A0001

    ACCESSORY DRIVE COMPONENTS
    Idler Pulley 16604-0F010
    Serpentine belt 90916-02586
    Serpentine Belt Tensioner Assy 16620-0W100
    Fan Bracket replaces (16307-50012) 16307-0F010
    Fan Clutch (Fluid Coupler-Fan) 16210-50102-optional
    Fan Clutch lock nuts (x4) 90029-07010- if worn

    WATERPUMP/RADIATOR/COOLING
    Water-pump & Gasket 16100-09201
    Coolant FIPG Seal Packing 1282B 08826-00100
    O Ring (For Water Inlet Housing); Ring, O(For Water Inlet). *119; Engine No.=3xxxxxx; Engine No.=5xxxxxx; Towing Package-With(North America,W(Engine Oil Cooler)),*145 96761-35035
    Upper Radiator hose (HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.1) 16571-50150
    Lower Radiator hose (HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.2) (From thermostat) 16572-50150
    Hose, Water Bypass- Front 16261-50090
    Thermostat 90916-03100
    Thermostat gasket 16346-50010
    Radiator Cap 16401-67150
    Radiator- DENSO 221-3152
    Gallons Toyota SLL 50/50 Coolant (3gal)

    HEATER T HOSES
    Hose, Heater Water, Outlet A 87245-6A180
    Hose, Heater Water, Outlet B 87245-6A190
    Hose, Rear Heater Water Outlet, C 99556-20155
    Hose, Rear Heater Water Inlet, A(From Engine) 87245-6A800
    Hose, Heater Water, Inlet B 87245-6A210
    Hose, Heater Water, Inlet A 87245-6A220
    T-Connector Connector, Heater Water Hose; Connector, Heater Water Hose, No.2; Pipe, Heater Water; Pipe, Heater Water Inlet, A; Pipe, Heater Water Inlet, C; Pipe, Heater Water Outlet, A; Pipe, Heater Water Outlet, C 87248-60460

    ENGINE OIL COOLER LINES
    Oil cooler Return Hose (Hose Oil Cooler) 15777-50030
    Inlet Hose Engine Oil Cooler (HOSE C, WATER BY-PASS, NO.5) 16282-50040
    Water Bypass Hose Engine Oil Cooler (HOSE B, WATER BY-PASS, NO.4. (J) ) 16281-50030

    GENERAL MAINTENANCE ITEMS
    PCV Valve 12204-50030
    Air Filter 17801-50040
    Fuel Filter: 23300-50090
    Oil change: Oil filter 90915-YZZD3 Oil 7Qts M1
    Trans drain & Fill -WS Transmission Fluid 3 Qts
    Spark plug (x8) 90080-91180
    Coil Boot & gasket replacements (x8) DENSO 671-8184
    Fuel Pressure Regulator 23280-50050
    Throttle body cleaning & MAF Sensor Clean
    Diff drain & fill: Front & rear-
    TC Drain & Fill 2qts M1 75/90
    PS Flush- 2qts M1 Syn ATF
    DS & U-joints: Lube and check/retorque yoke to flange bolts/nuts
    Inspect Brake System: Fluid, Pads, Rotors (* check behind piston dust covers for leaks) Check E-brake components and grease bell cranks with Ceramic grease (CRC Silaramic)
    Check Valve Cover Bolts & Grommets- re torque (or remove 1x1 coat with anti seize and re-torque)
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2017
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  2. Spike555

    Spike555

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    I love these lists of wasted money.
    Miles has nothing to do with hoses and clamps and the like, miles only matter to things that move, like bearings.
    Instead of replacing a perfectly good radiator why not pay attention o the temp gauge? You're not going to ruin your engine unless you overheat it.
    By the logic of this list you might want to replace the a/c cpmpressor and a/c lines too.
    Serpentine belts last forever, they only fail when something else fails, like the tensioner or a pullies seizes up, but all of those give warning. When the belt squeals or a bearing squeaks, thats your warning.
    A properly mounted and maintained radiator will last forever too. Corrosion is the number one killer of radiators (actually it's car accidents but we're not going to include those) change the coolant and make sure the rubber mounts on the radiator are in good shape.
    Every 100k is often enough for a timing belt and replace all other components while you're in there. The only reason for the replacement of the timing belt is because you cannot visually inspect the timing components.
    You might want to replace your main bearings too, and cranks seals, and crank sensor, and cam sensor, and trans clutches...
    Unless you are having a problem replacing parts is a total waste of money.
    Is the fan clutch seized or freewheeling and you're overheating while sitting in traffic? No? Then leave it alone.
    Are any bearings making noise? No? Leave them alone.
    As long as the cooling system is drained do your hoses and "T"'s and t-stat.
    Fuel filter, driveline fluids every 50k.
    Iridium plugs are good for a min of 100k.
    Don't waste your money of Toyota coolant, it's all the same, just buy the 50/50 from the store for $8/gal.

    I'm giving you my $.02 on this, I have seen this hundreds of times when I was in the Land Rover community, "I'm keeping this thing forever, only OEM parts, replace before failure..." 3 yrs later "my wifes making sell the truck because it's to expensive to keep on the road" or "I blew a diff and because I spent all of my money on OEM parts that didn't need to be replaced I can't afford to fix it" or here is a great one "it was totaled in a accident and I just spent my tax return on parts I cannot get back"

    Drive it, enjoy it, pay attention to it and when something gives you a heads up tackle it right away.
    A bad fuel pump is more likely to leave you stranded than any of these other things.
    A cracked radiator hose can be road side repaired with duct tape and water from a river for example.

    Anyway, good luck on whatever you decide to do.
     
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  3. jerryb

    jerryb

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    it's good to have guys like spike on one end and 2001lc on the other. I fall in the middle. I like your list buck. It made me remember how many parts I have sitting here still, 20k miles later, and which ones I've used up.
    *throttle body gasket, intake gasket, starter, hewitt bypass? VVTI? (vaccum hoses and block off plates while intake is off)

    I think it's an extreme minority that think a radiator lasts forever. Someone inform exxonmobil. That's silly like "brake rotors only presenting a warped state when hot"

    Everyone needs a hobby. Carry on
     
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  4. Spike555

    Spike555

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    Just so everyone has a idea on where I'm coming from with the radiator...how long does a heater core last? Have you ever replaced one as preventative maintence?

    At work we don't replace them until they start to leak, and we only replace engine coolant when a water pump goes bad.
    The shortest life radiators are the GM plastic tank ones, they only last 200k bouncing around in a commercial application day in and day out. Less if one of the mounts is broken, which is common on the GM Express vans.
    Our large vans have all aluminum (including the tank) ones do last the life of the van, which is 20yrs. The brass/copper ones on the old diesels last 15-20yrs and can be re-cored in a few days.
    Again commercial applications, driven hard and put away smoking hot 10-12hrs a day 5-6days a wk.

    If it ain't broke don't fix it.
     
  5. pokie1313

    pokie1313

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    Unless it's a BMW.
     
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  6. Julian Stead

    Julian Stead

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    This is just Preventative vs Reactive Maintanence, both have there upsides and downsides. Work vehicles are just work vehicles though, who really cares about them, comparing them with someone's pride and joy isn't really a comparison. I am all for preventative maintanence on the 100 as I Want to keep this truck. My corolla not so much, but that never causes any trouble it just goes on and on.

    I like your list, it is thorough. I changed my radiator as preventative maintanence last year and kept the old one. I like to work on a system and do as much as I feel necessary as to make it reliable for the foreseeable future so not to disturb it again. I just wouldn't change new aftermarket for old OEM.

    It's your money so spend it as you like, if the maintanence is a bit of a hobby then I can think of worse hobbies to waste money on. Plus it is all good selling points if the day comes that you want to sell up.
     
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  7. joseywales

    joseywales

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    What is the actual total cost of the list? I bet you could come close to buying a whole other 100 if it’s all oem parts!

    (Well, not really, but it would make a sizeable dent in the price!)
     
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  8. dace voit

    dace voit

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    Or an Audi...
     
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  9. Spike555

    Spike555

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    My work vehicle is how I feed my family and keep a roof over their heads. So your argument there is invalid.
    If the wheels ain't turnin' they ain't making money.
     
  10. Julian Stead

    Julian Stead

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    Your the one that waits for them to break down before replacing parts not me, so I don't get what your point is. If you lose money if your works vehicle is off the road, surely that is a case for preventative maintanence.
     
  11. sean2202

    sean2202

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    I enjoy a good preventative maintenance vs reactive maintenance debate. I deal with this all the time. Some times it costs alot to be reactive as well. What is the cost of all those parts OEM? Some of those new OEM parts will be made in china or Taiwan. I just installed a new Denso radiator "Made in Taiwan written on it". I would stick with your original. The plastic tanks do get brittle with age however.

    Radiator hoses do wear and I would replace think of all that heat going through them. I replaced mine at 183k and they looked and felt OK until I compared them with new OEM.

    I did purchase all other heater hoses and replaced some of them but after feeling the new vs. The old I stopped as old ones felt the same as new. The clamps are fine unless they get rusted.

    I just replaced my alternator from PO installing an aftermarket. I would check that good as there are bearings in it and you are right there.

    I actually replaced my idler bearing but just removed the seal and repacked my tensioner bearing with M1. Check your tensioner to the FSM specs too.

    I would replace all bearings seals, coolant flush, fan bracket bearing, belts, main radiator hoses thermostat and gasket and water pump if it were me. Check your fan clutch as well before tearing it down.

    Also a good check is your valve cover bolts take them out one at a time and check the rubber gaskets and apply anti seize to the threads.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2017
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  12. abuck99

    abuck99

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    Thanks for the replies.

    Many of the listed parts are interrelated, your taking them off or moving them aside to get into the timing belt job. Easier for me to replace now “while I’m in there” than in a sand wash at 110f or a on sloppy wet ranch road.

    I get the mentality of waiting till things break to replace- makes sense if its strictly a utility daily driver that doesnt see dirt, or you are a short tow from the house or dealer. Thats not my service objective on this truck.

    While it is a passion and hobby of sorts, my 100 is the “tool” that takes me to remote places where access to parts and service is not always convenient. I like to keep my tools sharp & ready for the job at hand. Last thing I want is spending my vacation sidelined 1,000 miles from home waiting on parts or worse; dealer service from a preventable failure.

    And if the day comes when I sell it, whoever gets my truck next can be assured it will have been maintained to a very high standard.

    The list is up to roughly $1300 in parts (at rougly 32% off of list price). Ive been gathering parts a little at a time for about 6 months preparing for the job so much of it is already paid for.
     
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  13. Julian Stead

    Julian Stead

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    Plus you gain spares in case of an emergency. I keep everything that hasn't failed as you never know when you might need one. Or if they stop making and selling the parts required, they could be worth a few $$$ in years to come.
     
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  14. Riviera

    Riviera SILVER Star

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    I work in automotive parts. I wish NOBODY would do preventative maintenance. Ford 5.4 liter spark plugs! Those were great. The early ones shot out, the latter ones would seize in there and break off if you waited too long to change them, HELLO CYLINDER HEAD SALE :) Don't like replacing PCV valves? That's ok, I'd much rather we did a valve cover gasket AND the pcv a year down the road! I'm a big believer in "while we're at it............." because I have always had long commutes, and I think breaking down is overrated.
     
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  15. Spike555

    Spike555

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    Preventative maintence vs replacing parts that are still good are two different things.
    Replacing parts that are still good is a waste of money, preventative maintence is not.
    My point, don't waste money replacing parts that are still good.
     
  16. fjfodee

    fjfodee At a Medium Pace SILVER Star

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    If the part is bad it's no longer preventative.
     
  17. Spike555

    Spike555

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    And replacing parts before they fail is a waste of money, you have zero idea on how long a part is going to last.

    Do you replace your alternator at 50k? 100k? 250? Or when it fails?
     
  18. fjfodee

    fjfodee At a Medium Pace SILVER Star

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    Yeah @Spike555, be watching that temp gauge when those original heater hose tee's with 180k miles fail while running 75mph down the interstate or while you're in the middle of nowhere camping with the family.

    @abuck99, I'm about to do my timing belt. Thanks for the list and part numbers. Other good "might as well while you're there" items as well.
     
  19. TheForger

    TheForger

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    Jesus Christ let the man replace what he wants. Just because some people wait until they are stranded on the side of the road in the middle of BFE to replace a part doesn't mean others are equally as stupid. I would prefer to go through the hassle of replacing front wheel bearings while they were still good, rather than wait until I'm 500miles away from home loaded down with gear and family for them to fail and ruin an entire trip; that does seem to be their favorite time to go. It's a peace-of-mind and sense of security thing knowing that you have brand new parts on your truck that can hold up to just about anything you throw at it.

    Respectfully, preventative maintenance and replacing parts that are still good are synonymous. As a matter of fact that's literally the definition of preventative maintenance - to replace equipment that is still working properly in order to lessen the likelihood of it failing unexpectedly or catastrophically.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2017
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  20. Spike555

    Spike555

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    Yes, that is correct, keep your eye no the temp gauge, volt meter, oil pressure...check your gauges and mirrors every 5sec. Your eyes need to be constantly moving.
    Bring a buddy, never off road alone, that way if something happens you have help. A break down, injury or getting stuck, you're not alone.
     
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