The "Complete Parts List" for 180K Service (1 Viewer)

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I like seeing more-than-comprehensive maintenance lists so that I can pick and choose what I and the FSM agree with.

As far as the OP's list, everyone has their own level of OCD'ness and what they're willing to pay to satisfy it. Thanks for the useful list! Tagged
 
Jesus Christ let the man replace what he wants. Just because some people wait until they are stranded on the side of the road in the middle of BFE to replace a part doesn't mean others are equally as stupid. I would prefer to go through the hassle of replacing front wheel bearings while they were still good, rather than wait until I'm 500miles away from home loaded down with gear and family for them to fail and ruin an entire trip; that does seem to be their favorite time to go. It's a peace-of-mind and sense of security thing knowing that you have brand new parts on your truck that can hold up to just about anything you throw at it.

Respectfully, preventative maintenance and replacing parts that are still good are synonymous. As a matter of fact that's literally the definition of preventative maintenance - to replace equipment that is still working properly in order to lessen the likelihood of it failing unexpectedly or catastrophically.

Correct, he can replace whatever he wants whenever he wants, he asked for opinions. I gave mine, I knew the vast majority would not like my method of doing things.
And just a FYI...I have never once been stranded in my personal vehicle, ever.
If you pay attention to it and check things you can repair them before you're stranded.
I'm not talking about waiting for things to fail and leave you on the side of the road, you always get warning.
Bearings squeak or have play in them. If you're checking your ball joints and bearings for play you won't be stranded 5000,000,,,0000,,00 miles from home on your way back from Jupiter.

In my work van yes, I have been stranded once. I was driving someone else's van and a u-joint broke.
 
....I didn’t really set out to debate the merits of PM or wether its a waste of money or not to remove working parts, but here we are. Spike- start another thread on why PM is a waste of money and everyone can debate the topic there. I’d like to keep this thread on topic to refine the 180k PM parts list.

I apreciate the different view points thanks for the input. Some good tips offered, especially the valve cover bolts and grommets (@sean2202 I added that to the list under general maintenance).

Cheers
 
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Peace of mind is priceless when you are venturing in the no man land. I would do the same to my vehicle regardless if it is daily driver or expedition vehicle especially to an almost 12 yr old truck. Genuine parts is definitely the way to go if you can afford and plan to keep the truck for a long time, still have original radiator in my 97, 99 and 11 :), next parts to address soon. Way cheaper than getting a new vehicle.
 
You should check out the Aisin TKT-021 kit, all the components were made in Japan and look the same if not comparable quality to the OEM stuff from what I could tell.

It comes with timing belt (Mitsuboshi), hydraulic tensioner(NTN), tensioner bearing (Koyo), idlering bearing (Koyo), water pump (AISIN), water pump gasket kit (AISIN). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYWKI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It will run you about 175.00 with free shipping through Amazon Prime.
 
double post whoops!
 
I've used two Aisin water kits w/tensioner this year. Parts "seem to be same" as OEM, just without the Toyota markings.

Inspection of coolant hoses, vacuum lines, seals & bushings is key to knowing which of the parts actually need ordering. From there, building parts list is a matter of are they serviceable until next scheduled PM or is the goal next 10 year / 100K.
 
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I changed my PCV valve, grommet and pipe at 180k, it wasn't blocked but the one way valve was stuck open, I could blow and suck through it. My next job in the spring will be my Valve cover gaskets and the spark plug tube seals.

When checking the front brakes, check behind the piston dust covers for brake fluid, mine have started to weep, I bought a seal kit but I think I will just replace the calipers when I next change my rotors.
 
One other thing to consider adding to your list... 4 new locking flamge nuts that hold the fan clutch to the pulley. I had mine out recently and noticed the groved marks on the back were worn flat. While unlikely to back out they "could"
 
List has been updated to include PCV Valve, locking nuts for fan clutch, and the SLL & SL Coolant compatible FIPG 1282B as required in FSM.

Thanks:
@sean2202
@Julian Stead

Also appreciate the suggestions for OEM alternate parts: @dogdaysindurham & @2001LC and other contributors.

It takes a village-
 
....I didn’t really set out to debate the merits of PM or wether its a waste of money or not to remove working parts, but here we are. Spike- start another thread on why PM is a waste of money and everyone can debate the topic there. I’d like to keep this thread on topic to refine the 180k PM parts list.

I apreciate the different view points thanks for the input. Some good tips offered, especially the valve cover bolts and grommets (@sean2202 I added that to the list under general maintenance).

Cheers

I did NOT say PM's were a waste of money, what I said was replacing good parts was a waste of money.

I did not intend to steer people away from your original thread, you asked for opinions, I gave mine and I was flamed for it.
 
It's an interesting list for sure. I like to do preventative maintenance, but some of this seems somewhat obsessive. I definitely get the "do the water pump while you do the timing belt" type of thing, but I probably wouldn't do the radiator because it is less likely to fail catastrophically and leave you stranded. I have already replaces my "T's" with brass etc anyway...
 
I changed my PCV valve, grommet and pipe at 180k, it wasn't blocked but the one way valve was stuck open, I could blow and suck through it. My next job in the spring will be my Valve cover gaskets and the spark plug tube seals.

When checking the front brakes, check behind the piston dust covers for brake fluid, mine have started to weep, I bought a seal kit but I think I will just replace the calipers when I next change my rotors.

This is good advice. Something as simple as a clogged pcv valve can cause excess pressure in an engine and could blow a seal (been there done that on a Subaru) The grommet and hoses get hardened with age. A hardened grommet will break apart and fall into the valve cover (ask me how I know) Then you have to take the valve cover off to fish out the pieces. A hardened hose just spits oil by where it should seal.

Julian those tube seals are tough and they do get hardened. I ended up cutting 2 notches in both sides and removing it that way.

@abuck99 dont forget to check your e-brake.
 
I replaced all suspension rubber and engine mounts aswell. Suspension wise, the rear control arms had the most wear, the front where pretty good but I put new genuine control arms on for the balljoints, the front lCA body mounts where like new, even at 180k. The engine mounts where shot, they looked good in situe but when removed the rubber was breaking away from the metal plates, this gave me the most noticeable improvement in ride quality, sounds daft but it made the truck feel more solid. My inner Cv joints had excessive movement, so replaced Both with new flanges, as again there was movement in the splines. My truck had full Toyota service history, but they don't check most of this stuff, it was left standing for years mind you, it only done a few hundred miles a year with the PO.
 
Thanks @sean2202 - definitely a good idea to check the E brake parts, adjust shoes and repack the bell cranks with Ceramic (CRC Silaramic) grease every couple of years- especially in wet & wintery climates. I actually rebuilt the rear brakes and e-brake components about almost 2yrs and 18,000 miles ago; fresh everything back there. @Julian Stead Ive replaced every suspension component on my truck with the exception of the front LCA. The LBJ's and bushes are are still in pretty good shape (new boots recently). Also replaced the CV's and flanges back in September. What a difference new Toyota CV's, flanges and suspension components make: not a clunk or a creak- drives like a new truck. Interesting about the engine mounts, I'll have to take a close look at those. Your truck is 7yrs older than mine, hopefully mine are still ok. I did replace the TCase mount recently while installing Slee skids.

@4Beast: The radiator is a known weak link beyond 200k (10+ yrs), becomes a gamble from that point forward. Of course it depends on how you use it (around town or cross country) and in what region its used in but hot climates and slow moving operation-like crawling in traffic or crawling over rocks places more stress on a weakening radiator. Once the radiator begins to discolor on top and turn from black to grey to brown then starts to present hairline cracks you're getting warning signs. One weak point is the cap stem but there have been plenty that split open along the top as well. You don't always get a warning with a radiator fail until the red light comes on and most of the time its too late by then. My radiator is discoloring on the top and has small stress cracks- so rather than wait for it to fail I will replace it.

Does everything on the list automatically need replacing at 180k 10-12 years? Again it depends on how you use it and where you venture to. For peeps with less maintenance OCD than mine, consider the "List" as a guide. Thououghly evaluate all related components and replace as your budget or confidence in that component permits.
 

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