The Captains 40.... eventually (2.0)

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Thanks for the posts and encouragement, being that this is our first time with a lot of this stuff it's been slow at times.

The next thing I wanted to do was get some color on my FJ. As the first picture indicated Captain Kirks shirt looks rathe close to the color I wanted, original land cruiser mustard yellow (532 paint code).

I talked to a friend that has done some restores himself and he mentioned that i could get rid of a glossy finish if I had the paint company add in some flattener (Because this isn't a restore, and I expect the cruiser to get some love on the trail I don't want a gloss finish, shows up all imperfections, so I wanted a nice flat finish).

So what the color you see here is the right color with half flattener. Now because I've never painted anything like this I had a buddy who has done that come over and lay it down.

We had to take the hood off and strip it down, however the tub was already hit with Por15 so I wanted to get the hood as well. This is part of the first coat.

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As you can see below thought, we had some contamination issues, some really bad fisheyes. We talked some some people about it, I haven't found other people to have this issue with por, although my experience is that it is really tempermental.

I also used marine clean and also metal ready before painting, we tried a few different variations and it was coming out of the paint with this fisheye, even when I tried to roll some on the replacement panel we had to hit.

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I didn't want to strip this thing all the way down and then hit again though, so I had my same buddy come back and hit it with another coat (again after we marine cleaned and metal readies the surface again), as you can see the fisheyes are there, but at least covered up.

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I made the decision to see how the tie coat primer concealed the fisheyes, so I hit it with a few coats and then wetsanded them very gently. You can't see the fisheyes at all, if you get really close you can make them out slightly though.

For what I'm going for, it worked for me.

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As you can see this is the color, it took a few coats (because the flattener goes on thinner), but after all was said and done it was the look I was going for.

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The hood worked, so I also had him do the tub as well, here is a picture of it after we hit the new paint on. You can also see the panel blends in really well after por, primer and paint.

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Another picture of the tub.


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Here is a close up of the color and also the


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So before we tossed the new tub on we put the hood on and took it on a trial run, the rig held up well, with a couple minor trail fixes, but the hood I thought looked awesome, can't wait for the full tub. (we also hit some nice mud, more pics of that if I can get them later). One is with the mud, another is without.

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That guy in the first mud picture playing with his phone looks pretty hardcore!

so hardcore in fact that his broken down 4runner didn't get to make the trip....
 
Nice to see it's coming along.
the new tub looks sharp, I like that flat mustard, it really looks great.
 
Just like I posted in thread MK I, I like the clutch and brake pedals.
 
So after the trial run we decided to see about swapping the old tub for the new tub. Also when we do that we are going to have to fix the motor mounts for the engine because it leans to one side due to one of the motor mounts actually pulling away from the frame (whoever did it didn't do a good job locating it).

You can also see in this pic that I got new wheels.

It took a while to get the firewall taken apart, the fenders weren't too bad to get off either. More than half, probably 2/3rds of the bolts I took off just broke instead of coming off, so I have to get a bunch more bolts.

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Do now the fun can start, going to strip this thing down and hit the frame with some paint, have to fix a motor mount, work on the gaskets because I have a very bad lead (you can even see what the tranny looks like).
 
Seems to be going well and you better be ready for moab. I am swapping my radiator this weekend and waiting for my new trans mount to replace the one held on by the grinder wheel. Sorry i havent been much help but i live to far away. By the way the mud pics look awsome, except for that guy playing with his cell phone.
 
Were are really trying to get to Moab, it'll be a photo finish, as it always seems to be.

So who wins out of the guy playing with the phone or this guy looking lost?

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HA!

oh, and nice speed hole.
 
Well here are pics of our engine pull, I actually have a few close ups of the horrible motor mount that was pulling away from the frame that has to be patched.

This is a pic of how the engine leans to one side when still in the frame. You can also see on the lower right the motor mount is pulling away from the frame causing the lean.

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Here you can also see how cacked in grime the tranny and t-case are, they will be cleaned, and also the mount again.

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Here are a few pics of the mount up close.
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So I just took a pic of the driver side of the engine
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Engine out of the frame.
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So one of the main reasons we needed to take the tub off and do all this is because one of the engine mounts was broken and the engine slagged to the passenger side.

The engine mount broke, missing a bolt, which put more pressure on the area that was on the frame, and for some reason the person that did this decided to put the mount partially over a hole (the frame for some reason has holes throughout).

So we started by grinding down the rust on the part that pulled the frame. Then grinded between the metal that pulled from the frame so the weld would take.

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After that we welded the part the pulled apart.

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We reinforced that area of the frame with some scrap metal we had lying around, and drilled some holes for plug welds as well.

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Then we welded the plate on and ground the plugs down.

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Not pictured is the frame getting stripped and painted black, that will come next.
 
By the way the mud pics look awsome, except for that guy playing with his cell phone.
Hilarious.

So both our Cruisers next trip then right!?
 
I already posted this elseware.

My stock 3speed tranny is giving me some problem, and with the body off the 40 I'm entertaining the idea of going with another setup. The GM 292 should allow me to bolt any GM tranny behind it, but i'm not sure which way to go. I would prefer to go with an auto, so I'm thinking TH350 or 700r4. The problem here is that I either spend $700 to adapt my case to it, or just go with a GM case as well. I think my two options here are the NP205 and NP203. The 203 is easy to find with a 700r4, but the problem either way is that both cases have a centered rear output. I could also go with an SM465+NP205 combo as they are cheap and plentiful, however, still centered output.

So I guess my question here is: How do I deal with the centered output?

Any other input on any of these combinations would be great. Thanks guys.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/323048-tranny-case-292-a.html#post4860002
 
Yeah I finally got the trans to work and the engine-trans-tcase are back between the frame rails (with the trans resting on a ratchet strap). one of the trans mounts that the PO made is very close to actually being usable, which means we only need to make the passenger side mount and we're done with the drive-train (for now).
 
Yeah I finally got the trans to work and the engine-trans-tcase are back between the frame rails (with the trans resting on a ratchet strap). one of the trans mounts that the PO made is very close to actually being usable, which means we only need to make the passenger side mount and we're done with the drive-train (for now).

Excellent man! Can't wait to see some updated pics. Any idea when it will be driveable once again, body and all?
 

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