The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread (3 Viewers)

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My mates is running it on his ute at the moment with 42psi making over 300hp (1kd hilux) it holds full boost as long as you hold your foot flat.

Sounds like everyone except the turbo is having fun!
 
Hi guys, mind me join in.

Just acquired a 80 series 1HD-FT with 600k, going to overhaul it. Currently thinking of changing the turbo. i see gturbo have a lot positive review.

but i have been a have a huge fan of EFR ballbearing turbo. I have use 6258 for 5 years 17psi in my 1.6L gasoline engine 300whp, still going strong. They also have a competitive pricing.

What do u guys think? i'm thinking of installing it in the 80. flange wouldnt be a problem, i can make an adapter for t25 housing. i also can custom a manifold but i rather use the stock manifold.

Would be a quick spooler, with a good pump and supporting mods the 6258 at 25psi Has the potential to do 700nm in the 16-1800 range. But will choke around the 3000rpm mark. The 6758 has proven to be quite a flexible/drivable of the shelf option (kind of)for the Nissan TD42. The 6758 won't have the toque of the 6258 below 1600 but still pulls quite well and won't choke at 3000rpm.

Depends on how you want it to drive
They can be a bit tricky to setup just right with big fueling . If you like diy either option would be a fun project .
If you want bolt on guaranteed out of the box performance tell us what your after power wise and we can give u a few options .

I can't comment on real life reliability, not seen one run long term yet. Reports on the net suggest some issues .
 
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I look for a CT20B setup that fits my 1HD-FT best.
tried to find any proper infos, asked Dougal too

not sure if there is a solution hiding here.....
 
Hey guys,

Ended up not going down the compound route due to cost and the time I have to get my car back on the road.

I am sending my current turbo back to mmp and Luke is going to put a td05h wheel in with a 8cm rear and vband outlet, hopefully this should get it spooling quicker.
 
Ahh yeah that makes sence if your doing that. Lots of guys on here want early boost and fast response.
Yeah that would be nice, sadly for what I want without going compound I will have to sacrifice that. It will still be fairly responsive compared to my current td06.

For response wise, I see a lot of people running td05-16g large wheels? Mid range 18G seems to be the go.
I used to have an AXT turbo which looked similar to a lot of the dts and safari kits. It was next to useless above 12-13psi and had a large looking rear housing even compared to what my td06 has on it now.

High flow ct26 or even 16g large would be the go for stock pumps and anyone with a 12mm or 14mm should be looking at the 18G or 20G, even though I have chosen and 8cm I believe there is a 6 or 7 like you said.

I am about to get my manifold made and once the turbo and everything is on and sorted I will post some dyno figures and response times.
 
On another topic, what size dump pipes is everyone running? since mine is all going to be custom work I am most likely getting 4 inch. Just wandering what everyones opinions are on how dump pipe size affects performance and response.
 
On another topic, what size dump pipes is everyone running? since mine is all going to be custom work I am most likely getting 4 inch. Just wandering what everyones opinions are on how dump pipe size affects performance and response.

3" is heaps. 4" is silly.
 
As I am having to do it custom already is there a downside to running a 4 inch dump though? I know of people running full 4 inch systems on turbo diesels.

The transition from ~45mm turbine wheel to 102mm pipe will not be nice.
 
The turbo has a 3 inch outlet as it is, I figured the more cross sectional area for gas to flow and reduce temperatures the better?

What do you mean by not nice, Im not fully on top of all this stuff.
 
The turbo has a 3 inch outlet as it is, I figured the more cross sectional area for gas to flow and reduce temperatures the better?

What do you mean by not nice, Im not fully on top of all this stuff.

You need a smooth transition from the turbine wheel outlet to the full pipe diameter.
 
Trumpet transitions are harder than cone. Basically it's harder to go bigger with smooth flow internally. You might feel good about the larger diameter but if your transition is dirty you could undo much of the bennifit of the larger diameter but be left with all the trouble of fitting it. Most if not all of the transitions you can buy will be too short to prevent flow separation. Just doing some quick math and I'd guess a 3-4" transition should be like 8 inches long. Should be 12 degrees if I remember correctly. If you find one it won't be cheap.

Course being the cheapskate I am you can make your own from a section of 4 inch pipe say 8" long and get a length of 3" wire, wrap it to one end on the 4 inch pipe and mark off the wire ends giving you the width of the wedge you can cut out if it. Single point on one end with straight lines marked where to cut to the two ends of the 3" wire on the other. Once the slice is cut out use a hose clamp to bring the edges together....weld a new seam.....and you have a proper length transition for what could be like 15minures work.
 

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