The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread (9 Viewers)

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I’ve been running my MMP ceramic ball bearing turbo for about three weeks now and I’ve logged about 3000 kms in this time. The following is a bit of a review of the turbo with the current setup/tune. The tune was done by a shop and I haven’t tried to tinker with it since it was set up. Any comments that could be perceived as complaints about the current setup are not intended to be directed at the turbo manufacturer or the shop that did the tune. They are merely comments about the current setup and I have not discussed any of this with either the shop or the turbo manufacturer.

Setup:
  • 1994 HDJ81
  • 285/75/16 Duratrac Tires
  • 3-4” lift
  • 3” exhaust (using the factory elbow at the turbo)
  • Dawes MBC (22 psi)
  • Factory air intake
The Short Version:

It seems like the truck drives nicer than before. It’s better off the line, but the boost level is actually lower than the stock turbo at all speeds. I suspect that the off the line improvement is down to a better tune. It has been mentioned that even though the boost is lower the turbo could be flowing more air than the old stock CT26 turbo. Once the boost starts to build it builds in a more linear fashion compared to the stock CT26 and I only see higher boost when the RPMs climb. I’m not seeing the high boost levels below 2000 RPM that were claimed in the group buy, but I haven’t tried to adjust settings to make this happen.

The Long Version:

As with the short version above, the truck seems to drive nicer with the new turbo. I can’t really say if this is down to the tune or the turbo. After the install was completed I also noticed that the exhaust smoke had been cleaned up, so I don’t know if maybe the seals were leaking a bit on the old turbo. It had 260,000kms on it, so it had a good run. As above boost levels with the new turbo are presently lower than with the stock turbo. The interesting thing is that it doesn’t feel like there is more lag than the stock turbo even though I’m getting lower boost levels. Yes, my gauge is reading properly because the overboost light on the dash comes on when the gauge is reading just over 14psi.

I can’t comment on EGT’s before and after because I had the probe moved pre-turbo during the install since I had it post before. The bung is still there and I have a second gauge, so I’m hoping to to a pre-post EGT reading comparison after I get one part I’m waiting for. It wouldn’t really matter to compare to the stock turbo anyway since the tune has been adjusted.

With the current setup-tune on flat ground I’m seeing 600 F @ 90km/hr with 3 psi boost and 700F @ 100km/hr with 5 psi boost. With the stock CT26 I was seeing about 8 psi just over 90km/hr and 10 psi or so at about 100km/hr. I’m definitely not seeing the higher boost levels at lower RPMs that I was hoping for. As has been commented, I’ll see if I can get in and adjust the preload on the wastegate actuator to bring the boost up at lower RPMs. Presently, I have set the max boost level at 22 psi, but only see that if I get over 3000 RPM.

Compared to the stock turbo the thing that is nice with the current setup is that it seems much more willing to do highway hill runs at higher speeds. With my old set up if I was doing 100km/hr my EGT’s would run hot really fast if I hit any hills. Now, it takes a while before my EGT’s get to warning levels and if I just take the OD off (since I have the ECT transmission) I can just keep going. It’s just a lot louder with the higher RPMs :) Passing on two lane highways also seems easier than before. I did have to watch EGT’s though because when I was booting it to pass they climbed quickly and there was noticeable black smoke from the exhaust. I could probably dial back the fueling a bit, but I’d really like to look at getting the turbo to boost earlier before I start messing with fuel and the adjustment on the star wheel in the pump.

Overall, I’m happy with the setup, but it’s not as much of an improvement over the stock that I was hoping for. Hopefully I can get there with a few adjustments. As others have commented I was expecting this turbo to be a bit more ready to go out of the box. I realize there were likely some variations in what people wanted from their turbo in the group buy, but it would have been nice to have the wastegate set or have the ability to adjust the preload on the wastegate without adding shims especially since it was supposed to be hitting higher boost below 2k RPMs. I feel like that was a big selling feature, so it should have been easy to get that result without modifications to the wastegate mounting.
 
@MonsterCruiser

Well crap. I was wondering where everyone else from the group buy were. I was hoping other people were doing better than I was since my turbo ended up having problems. Yours sounds similar to mine where it would build boost more like a petrol car than a diesel. Obviously with mine I had resistance in the turbo causing my boost to fuel ratio to be off and my EGTs to spike. I could still get my MMP turbo to spool 300-400 RPM earlier than stock but I was not getting the claimed 30 psi at 2000 RPMs. I know @diby 2000 was getting better boost but he also shimmed his wastegate. I checked mine again and it seemed to have the correct 2mm of preload and didn't begin moving till 22psi and then it would actually crack open at 25psi. It never actually boosted over 22 psi for me. I chased my tail tuning it for a month but my EGTs were higher than yours and came back to normal by reinstalling the stock turbo on my modified fuel settings. That tells me I never really gave it the fuel it needed. I'm curious about your tune but since you didn't do it I guess there is no way to know what they did.

Edit: Mine ran at 7 psi on the highway at about 68mph GPS.

At what rpm do you hit over boost?
At what RPM is your max boost?
 
@MonsterCruiser

Well crap. I was wondering where everyone else from the group buy were. I was hoping other people were doing better than I was since my turbo ended up having problems. Yours sounds similar to mine where it would build boost more like a petrol car than a diesel. Obviously with mine I had resistance in the turbo causing my boost to fuel ratio to be off and my EGTs to spike. I could still get my MMP turbo to spool 300-400 RPM earlier than stock but I was not getting the claimed 30 psi at 2000 RPMs. I know @diby 2000 was getting better boost but he also shimmed his wastegate. I checked mine again and it seemed to have the correct 2mm of preload and didn't begin moving till 22psi and then it would actually crack open at 25psi. It never actually boosted over 22 psi for me. I chased my tail tuning it for a month but my EGTs were higher than yours and came back to normal by reinstalling the stock turbo on my modified fuel settings. That tells me I never really gave it the fuel it needed. I'm curious about your tune but since you didn't do it I guess there is no way to know what they did.

Edit: Mine ran at 7 psi on the highway at about 68mph GPS.

At what rpm do you hit over boost?
At what RPM is your max boost?

I've been following your updates/woes in this thread as well as the comments and suggestions from @diby 2000. The results I am seeing are definitely similar to what you were initially describing with your setup. However, I don't have any rubbing noise like you mentioned in yours and I can hear the turbo still spinning (noise from the tail pipe) after I shut down, so I'm sure I don't have any rubbing issue like you were having.

The RPM I hit over boost isn't necessarily a specific number. It's definitely over 2k rpm, but it varies with the load on the engine. I've really only played with it when going up hills. I think it's around 2200-2400 RPM where I can make it go over the 14psi mark when going up hills.

On flat, I don't see 22 psi until RPM's are about 3100-3200. I didn't play on the hills too much as I would usually get the EGT's to rise faster than I could get the boost to reach 22 psi. I figure the EGT's in this range could be sorted out if I can get the boost to build earlier.
 
I’ve been running my MMP ceramic ball bearing turbo for about three weeks now and I’ve logged about 3000 kms in this time. The following is a bit of a review of the turbo with the current setup/tune. The tune was done by a shop and I haven’t tried to tinker with it since it was set up. Any comments that could be perceived as complaints about the current setup are not intended to be directed at the turbo manufacturer or the shop that did the tune. They are merely comments about the current setup and I have not discussed any of this with either the shop or the turbo manufacturer.

Setup:
  • 1994 HDJ81
  • 285/75/16 Duratrac Tires
  • 3-4” lift
  • 3” exhaust (using the factory elbow at the turbo)
  • Dawes MBC (22 psi)
  • Factory air intake
The Short Version:

It seems like the truck drives nicer than before. It’s better off the line, but the boost level is actually lower than the stock turbo at all speeds. I suspect that the off the line improvement is down to a better tune. It has been mentioned that even though the boost is lower the turbo could be flowing more air than the old stock CT26 turbo. Once the boost starts to build it builds in a more linear fashion compared to the stock CT26 and I only see higher boost when the RPMs climb. I’m not seeing the high boost levels below 2000 RPM that were claimed in the group buy, but I haven’t tried to adjust settings to make this happen.

The Long Version:

As with the short version above, the truck seems to drive nicer with the new turbo. I can’t really say if this is down to the tune or the turbo. After the install was completed I also noticed that the exhaust smoke had been cleaned up, so I don’t know if maybe the seals were leaking a bit on the old turbo. It had 260,000kms on it, so it had a good run. As above boost levels with the new turbo are presently lower than with the stock turbo. The interesting thing is that it doesn’t feel like there is more lag than the stock turbo even though I’m getting lower boost levels. Yes, my gauge is reading properly because the overboost light on the dash comes on when the gauge is reading just over 14psi.

I can’t comment on EGT’s before and after because I had the probe moved pre-turbo during the install since I had it post before. The bung is still there and I have a second gauge, so I’m hoping to to a pre-post EGT reading comparison after I get one part I’m waiting for. It wouldn’t really matter to compare to the stock turbo anyway since the tune has been adjusted.

With the current setup-tune on flat ground I’m seeing 600 F @ 90km/hr with 3 psi boost and 700F @ 100km/hr with 5 psi boost. With the stock CT26 I was seeing about 8 psi just over 90km/hr and 10 psi or so at about 100km/hr. I’m definitely not seeing the higher boost levels at lower RPMs that I was hoping for. As has been commented, I’ll see if I can get in and adjust the preload on the wastegate actuator to bring the boost up at lower RPMs. Presently, I have set the max boost level at 22 psi, but only see that if I get over 3000 RPM.

Compared to the stock turbo the thing that is nice with the current setup is that it seems much more willing to do highway hill runs at higher speeds. With my old set up if I was doing 100km/hr my EGT’s would run hot really fast if I hit any hills. Now, it takes a while before my EGT’s get to warning levels and if I just take the OD off (since I have the ECT transmission) I can just keep going. It’s just a lot louder with the higher RPMs :) Passing on two lane highways also seems easier than before. I did have to watch EGT’s though because when I was booting it to pass they climbed quickly and there was noticeable black smoke from the exhaust. I could probably dial back the fueling a bit, but I’d really like to look at getting the turbo to boost earlier before I start messing with fuel and the adjustment on the star wheel in the pump.

Overall, I’m happy with the setup, but it’s not as much of an improvement over the stock that I was hoping for. Hopefully I can get there with a few adjustments. As others have commented I was expecting this turbo to be a bit more ready to go out of the box. I realize there were likely some variations in what people wanted from their turbo in the group buy, but it would have been nice to have the wastegate set or have the ability to adjust the preload on the wastegate without adding shims especially since it was supposed to be hitting higher boost below 2k RPMs. I feel like that was a big selling feature, so it should have been easy to get that result without modifications to the wastegate mounting.

Typical result of a turbine that is too big. I suspect they expected the ceramic bearings would make up for it. But they don't.

Got any wheel and housing sizes to check?
 
Typical result of a turbine that is too big. I suspect they expected the ceramic bearings would make up for it. But they don't.

Got any wheel and housing sizes to check?


Tom apparently did something to his exhaust housing that negatively affected his spool but his turbo was also slightly larger than the others in the group buy. With his rough tune he is still hitting 25psi at 2200 rpm and 32psi at 2250. In my video with my turbo having a problem I was hitting 20 psi at 2400 RPMs. Both Tom and I seem to have better boost numbers than @MonsterCruiser so I'm not sure I would blame the turbine size. My boost numbers are with a turbo that has problems and almost stock fuel. Without touching my fuel from all the tuning I did, my stock turbo does not smoke at all so my fuel is not even turned up hardly at all. I'm super curious to get my new turbo and see how it compares. I'm slightly rich off boost right now but I'm not touching anything for the moment. Also, Luke is increasing my inducer from 46mm to 50mm for increased mid-range flow, 1500-2500 RPM so I guess I will see how that goes. I can't really compare it though because I never got the turbo working correctly to really see what it could do.
 
Sorry all, I have been rather busy the last week or two and have also been battling a brain numbing flue of some sort.
I have the time, energy and focus to answer some of these now so I will give it a shot

The gate should be set so that it allows sufficient boost building but not limited so that emp v's boost (drive pressure ratio is to high the closers to one to one the better . Drive pressure ratio aim for below 1.6:1 but it really depends on where power starts to drop off as the turbine runs in choke flow . If it's not fuelled correctly, volume and timing then it won't maintain boost and as u limit gate movement it will increase backpressure and egt.
If u can confirm drive pressure ratio is ok but egt is still high then something is wrong . It should outperform the standard turbo
I can confirm that the drive pressure ratio of the MMP is not quite as good as the CT26. My CT26 was almost always 1-2psi higher EMP on the exhaust side than the compressor side up to about 13psi, then the difference started to increase. I never measured it over 15psi but there it was at least 4psi difference, sometimes more. The MMP seems to be 3psi different EMP to compressor up to about 25psi(roughly), then the difference starts to open up. By 33psi I can not measure the difference yet (until I replace the EMP gauge) as my gauges only go to 35 but at a rough guess there is a 10psi difference.
While this is getting up there, this is still within your 1.6 ratio but my EGTs are climbing faster than the AFR is showing so I still have issues, be it timing, intercooling or exhaust backpresure I'm not sure yet.
Note: this is with my wastegate actuator preloaded to only allow about 2mm of total travel with <40psi applied to it. Yet it is still maintaining my max boost without a problem.

Does this mean the wastegate is opening far enough or should I be removing some preloading shim to allow it to open more?

Overall, I’m happy with the setup, but it’s not as much of an improvement over the stock that I was hoping for. Hopefully I can get there with a few adjustments. As others have commented I was expecting this turbo to be a bit more ready to go out of the box. I realize there were likely some variations in what people wanted from their turbo in the group buy, but it would have been nice to have the wastegate set or have the ability to adjust the preload on the wastegate without adding shims especially since it was supposed to be hitting higher boost below 2k RPMs. I feel like that was a big selling feature, so it should have been easy to get that result without modifications to the wastegate mounting.
I agree the low RPM boost numbers where a big selling point. Well for me they were anyway. I also agree that the assembly should arrive ready to bolt in and enjoy. I have found adding the wastegate preloading shims has made my turbo perform, not as advertised, but allot closer to what was quoted.
You also have to remember the boost and RPM numbers quoted was on an FTE (with computer controlled injection timing that can aid spool) and probably an electronic boost controller wich would also aid in spool boost numbers. I think these factors, especially combined, could play a large part.

@MonsterCruiser
I checked mine again and it seemed to have the correct 2mm of preload and didn't begin moving till 22psi and then it would actually crack open at 25psi.
I see the TurboSmart manual you have read this but I am still of the belief you would benefit greatly from more preload. I'm no expert but I guess the 2mm preload they recommend is a minimum and for when you are using an EBC.

Edit: Mine ran at 7 psi on the highway at about 68mph GPS.
My CT26 would sit at 6-7psi @ 35:1 AFR and 400c pre-turbo
My current MMP sits at 5-6psi @32.5:1 and 410c

Typical result of a turbine that is too big. I suspect they expected the ceramic bearings would make up for it. But they don't.

Got any wheel and housing sizes to check?
Turbine is 58.5mm inducer, 55.5mm exducer and the housing A/R is 0.42
How does this play with the calcs?

Tom apparently did something to his exhaust housing that negatively affected his spool but his turbo was also slightly larger than the others in the group buy. With his rough tune he is still hitting 25psi at 2200 rpm and 32psi at 2250. In my video with my turbo having a problem I was hitting 20 psi at 2400 RPMs. Both Tom and I seem to have better boost numbers than @MonsterCruiser so I'm not sure I would blame the turbine size. My boost numbers are with a turbo that has problems and almost stock fuel. Without touching my fuel from all the tuning I did, my stock turbo does not smoke at all so my fuel is not even turned up hardly at all. I'm super curious to get my new turbo and see how it compares. I'm slightly rich off boost right now but I'm not touching anything for the moment. Also, Luke is increasing my inducer from 46mm to 50mm for increased mid-range flow, 1500-2500 RPM so I guess I will see how that goes. I can't really compare it though because I never got the turbo working correctly to really see what it could do.
To be completely fair I am still running a rich spooling fuel rate. About 17:1 up to 15psi (about 1800rpm) then leaning out from there on. I have not yet ground my aneroid pin. My rough tune is still using the stock aneroid pin ramp and shim to prevent going into overboost.
 
Sorry all, I have been rather busy the last week or two and have also been battling a brain numbing flue of some sort.
I have the time, energy and focus to answer some of these now so I will give it a shot


I can confirm that the drive pressure ratio of the MMP is not quite as good as the CT26. My CT26 was almost always 1-2psi higher EMP on the exhaust side than the compressor side up to about 13psi, then the difference started to increase. I never measured it over 15psi but there it was at least 4psi difference, sometimes more. The MMP seems to be 3psi different EMP to compressor up to about 25psi(roughly), then the difference starts to open up. By 33psi I can not measure the difference yet (until I replace the EMP gauge) as my gauges only go to 35 but at a rough guess there is a 10psi difference.
While this is getting up there, this is still within your 1.6 ratio but my EGTs are climbing faster than the AFR is showing so I still have issues, be it timing, intercooling or exhaust backpresure I'm not sure yet.
Note: this is with my wastegate actuator preloaded to only allow about 2mm of total travel with <40psi applied to it. Yet it is still maintaining my max boost without a problem.

Does this mean the wastegate is opening far enough or should I be removing some preloading shim to allow it to open more?

Wastegate is to set boost limit. That is all. It does not and cannot change the turbine map or drive pressure vs boost numbers. They are dynamic and change throughout the operating range. Set it for max boost and you're done.


Turbine is 58.5mm inducer, 55.5mm exducer and the housing A/R is 0.42
How does this play with the calcs?

First thing is, that's 90% trim which is the biggest I've come across. Not much step between inducer and exducer. Most other turbos are 70-80%. That will possibly mean it needs high flow to generate the pressure difference across the blades to start expanding gas and working.
The CCF numbers aren't out of range, so it's likely the above high trim that's giving it a very high starting flow.
 
Luke is increasing my inducer from 46mm to 50mm for increased mid-range flow

I don't see that working. Mid range flow is about the VE of your engine, the boost pressure, turbo efficiency and intercooling. Going from 46 to 50mm will likely reduce compressor efficiency, which reduces boost and/or increases turbine drive pressure (depending on which is your current constraint).
 
Wastegate is to set boost limit. That is all. It does not and cannot change the turbine map or drive pressure vs boost numbers. They are dynamic and change throughout the operating range. Set it for max boost and you're done.
That is my understanding.
So along these lines, as long as the max of 2mm of actuator travel allows the wastegate to open far enough to allow sufficient gas flow to bypass the turbine and therefor regulate the boost pressure at my max boost level, that is enough wastegate travel.
So as long as the max boost is being controlled, that is enough.

First thing is, that's 90% trim which is the biggest I've come across. Not much step between inducer and exducer. Most other turbos are 70-80%. That will possibly mean it needs high flow to generate the pressure difference across the blades to start expanding gas and working.
The CCF numbers aren't out of range, so it's likely the above high trim that's giving it a very high starting flow.
So I can understand this correctly, because of the high trim, there is less surface area of the blade 'restricting' the gas flow, resulting in less energy absorbed by the blade, which leads to less pressure differential across the turbine?
This is when there is less volume of gas flowing. As more volume is forced through the turbine, more gas is forced to interact with the blades, resulting in more energy transferred and a larger pressure drop across the turbine?
 
That is my understanding.
So along these lines, as long as the max of 2mm of actuator travel allows the wastegate to open far enough to allow sufficient gas flow to bypass the turbine and therefor regulate the boost pressure at my max boost level, that is enough wastegate travel.
So as long as the max boost is being controlled, that is enough.


So I can understand this correctly, because of the high trim, there is less surface area of the blade 'restricting' the gas flow, resulting in less energy absorbed by the blade, which leads to less pressure differential across the turbine?
This is when there is less volume of gas flowing. As more volume is forced through the turbine, more gas is forced to interact with the blades, resulting in more energy transferred and a larger pressure drop across the turbine?

Yeah, so turbines work by first choking and then expanding the gas through the blades. The choke point is essentially the blade tips where the scroll feeds the wheel. A high trim wheel isn't as good at choking and expanding, it requires more flow to start the process working.
 
Cool, so does a high trim wheel then flow with less restriction at high volumes?
And would more turbine blades on a high trim wheel result in a similar result to less blades on a lower trim wheel?
 
Cool, so does a high trim wheel then flow with less restriction at high volumes?
And would more turbine blades on a high trim wheel result in a similar result to less blades on a lower trim wheel?

There's a sane limit to trim. Trim too low and the compressor map shrinks and efficiency is poor. Trim too high and compressor map loses all low end. To find the sweet spot, look at the most modern turbos from the big companies (borg warner, Holset etc).

More blades mean less pressure difference across each blade for the same wheel torque. But also more flow blockage. Aftermarket turbines in some sizes come with a 9 or 11 blade version. The 9 is for high flow but low boost. The 11 is better for higher boost.
 
Thanks @Dougal
That all makes sense.

Does my boost response fit with your understanding?
And is there anything I can do, short of swapping the turbo, or adding smoke to make it better?
 
Thanks @Dougal
That all makes sense.

Does my boost response fit with your understanding?
And is there anything I can do, short of swapping the turbo, or adding smoke to make it better?


It does. The turbine housing is tight enough and the turbine wheel small enough. But the oversized exducer can explain the poor low end response. This is basically a turbo suited to a high rpm 2.0L petrol engine.

I think the turbo is the wrong spec. Swapping housings won't help. Swapping turbine wheels would require a new housing and rebuild. I don't see an easy way to fix it.
 
@Dougal i agree with the high trim for sure .
Garret turbines arent my favourite for diesel use either, if that's what it is.

Waste gate setting can impact drive pressure depending how it is tuned .

It's possible to preload the wastegate actuator so much that it limits the gate movement . I see it when guys are trying to lower egts they pull fuel out, boost drops off because there's not enough energy to maintain turbine drive even though it's still revs to redline . So they crank up preload on the wastegate. Boost comes back up, Top end Afr's are lean, but top end Emp and egt are still high , it's a balance and it depends on many factors total cc/1000 how the timing is mapped, turbo makup, Inlet restriction ect

Normally the above scenario has decent spool though

But if the turbine side is incorrect for your vehicle your doomed from the start .
Re. Turbine design, Garret turbines are less forgiving than Borg Warner and mhi with diesels .
 
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This question of the turbo not meeting expectation is really one for mmp though . They'll know how the advertised verhicle was setup/tuned

Has anyone had there's professionally tuned ?
 

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