Temp Sending Unit?

[rfj62]

More description

Using a 7mm nut driver remove the 4 nuts and washers.

Pics of it dissembled.


I believe this is where you clean with an emery cloth.?

 

[SARCruiser]

Man, you guys rock, I'm finding fixes for all the "ghosts" that have been neglected over the years in my cruiser!

 

[lehiguy]

This is affectionately reffered to as crazy gauges. I never would have figured it out if it weren't for this forum. I prefer to absorb the temporary euphoria of seeing the fuel gauge at full tilt even after a few hundred miles of driving. Then I notice the temp gauge showing "nuclear meltdown" and I know it's just a passing thing. Sigh.

 

[yesitsme11]

you guys are awesome. I have had this ame probem with my Cruiser fj62 1988 since 1990. so 19yrs. i just stuck with it and said to myself if it doesnt go back down in a minute or 2 then i have an issue. I could drive it for months and it is fine then every 5 minutes it will do it.

 

[Evscholla]

is this the same for e 60?

 

[Cruzerman]

is this the same for e 60?

Yes it is.

 

[Spike Strip]

Anybody know what that little screw on the side of the fuel gauge is for ?

It seems like it adjusts the contacts, but before I mess with it, I wanna see if anyone else has

 

[Rocky_LC]

See post 15 of the attached FJ-40 thread - there is a discussion of the adjustment screw and how the whole guage system works...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/170755-fuel-temp-gauges.html

 

[Spike Strip]

Thanks for that, Rocky - very interesting...

So it's a Voltage Regulator to drop the Voltage down to around 2-7 .... I guess that means don't mess with it. I did use some emery cloth on the contacts, though. But still having an over heating (or running hot) issue.

 

[et3surge]

TLCAddict,

Give cruiserparts.com a call and get a used gauge from them. I just got a few and straighten everything right out.

cruiserparts.net also

 

[VTCDN]

This basic system is because full 12 volts sent to the fuel gauge sensor was thought that it would blow up any Gas tank,, Well now we give then full 12 volts and at 6 amps , fused at ~15 , Fuel pump !!!

So wayyyy , back , that is a voltage compensator / limiter ..

I have electronic units that stablize the voltage at set values of 5.8-6.2 volts , holding the gauges within there set specs.

VT

 

[VTCDN]

1234971, Voltage Stabilizer used NOW , Not mechanical , SCR Type ..

Volvo Number , MB , Audi also have this.

VT

 

[Spike Strip]

1234971, Voltage Stabilizer used NOW , Not mechanical , SCR Type ..

Volvo Number , MB , Audi also have this.

VT

I also have just the small chip 3 wire units.

VT

https://forum.ih8mud.com/chit-chat-section/363725-guiness-beer-landcruiser.html

Wow , Mow the Lawn

VT - are you saying you put a Voltage Regulator (stabilizer) in the fuel gauge circuit ?

 

[gfoz]

Those gauges swinging wildly used to drive me crazy and caused more then one skipped heart beat. The fix for me was to clean the battery to body ground connection on the fender. Solved the gauge problem and also solved the starter problem I was having. It seemed like once or twice a month, completely random, the starter wouldn't work. Every time I was just about ready to get a new starter the problem would disappear for awhile. When I redid the body ground connection it fixed it, or at least it seems to have fixed it.

 

[Supra60]

I just did this last night, worked like a charm (so far). I used 180 grit emery cloth, but would suggest something much finer. Just so no one else feels a little stupid like I did, the thing you clean is what is clamping down on the screwdriver in the picture. And you don't have to pull out the temperature gauge and try to find the same set up, all that needs cleaning is the one on the fuel gauge. (Doh!)

Threads like these really help a person out, thanks!

Now if I could only get those darn bolts loose on the rear bumper...

 

[VTCDN]

VT - are you saying you put a Voltage Regulator (stabilizer) in the fuel gauge circuit ?

Yes.
I used a voltage stabilizer from a volvo (chip style)#1362674 rather than the larger metal base one 1234971 early Voltage Stabilizer, both have the same chip (voltage regulation unit) but the early unit was bulky.

The metal part that the Voltage Stabilizer screws too is the heat sink.
Wires are Red=12V
Black=earth / ground
Yellow-Blue = Voltage Stabilized power.


The early euro cars that ran the original style like the fuel gauge has in the sixty were prone to problem , they either had fuel pumps changed prematurely OR thermostats or dio-ed with overheating . Those were the ones that the owners or tech's noticed that something wasn't correct.
The check was FIRST , make sure the gauge is reading correctly , many would look OK with the key on and engine off (KOEO) , but start it and let it start charging the battery the engine would look like it started to overheat.
Not the case , the fuel gauge was never relied on due to folks either never put fuel in or always drove with a tank full.

The test was a valued resistance factor that replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor , it's "R" value would make the gauge read normal operating temperature on the dash (either straight up or level flat).

If the gauge looked wonky in that test , then a few more quick checks were preformed (Voltage Stabilizer checked if old style & replaced) to voltage supplied to the sender.If they ran needle low , so always showing cold and more fuel than reported on the dash, then those are the engines that really got overheated. if they looked like they were running at the set normal range , they were cooking. I only saw them dead after the fact. You could catch them (Volt -Stab) on rollys if you notice that the temp never made it to normal operating temps,then checked why.

So to get one old expired system out of the way, I updated the voltage regulation by removing the fuel gauge internal one (cut 2 wires ) and installed in an external one. Now any voltage from 8-18 my fuel and coolant needles remain the same level.

VT

PS: Spike Strip, sorry it took so long, just caught this the other night , i needed to find the picture& post the reason.

 

[gifu]

great info. So... is there an updated part number? Of do i just need a 12volt--> 10Volt stabilizer (ie: radio shack, etc.)?

(yes, i'm having the same issue )

 

[OldBeachBob]

Guages

I run mechanical and factory guages in all 3 (2FJ55s, 1 FJ60) of my Cruisers. You can run a T off the oild filter stand and run the factory oil pressure switch and then add the mechanical line. For water temp there is another plug just forward of the water temp Guage that you can add the mechanical pickup too.

That way you have accurate backups. It's about 1 1/2 hours to add a three guage set water temp Volts and oil pressure maybe $45.00 for a good set. Cheap insurance!!!

 

[gifu]

for me... i'm a big fan of stock gauges (when they work. if they work). and i don't mind nerding out on voltage regulators and such.

 

[Spike Strip]

Hey VT, thanks for posting - is that part #, 1234971, the one you used ? - your post is a little confusing... 'cuz when I search for it, it comes up as this:

So I think this is it:

OEM part # 357 919 803 = 357919803 (Volvo 1978 245) Voltage Stabilizer.

You added the wire leads ?