I do indeed sell original Toyota flasher modules that I modify to flash the correct speed with LED blinker bulbs. See the link above.
I have some questions though. What are JTX lights? Where did you install the load resistor in the circuit?
I have lots of strong opinions on this stuff which is why I started modifying the original flashers in the first place.
1. Installing a load resistor defeats the purpose of installing LEDs. LEDs use much less current, saving electrical load on your system … but then the load resistor just sits there soaking up current and turning it into heat. You’re back to square one using up just as much current as an incandescent bulb. You’re losing the primary advantage of LEDs.
2. Yes there is a mod described on this forum where you cut out a 100 ohm resistor from the circuit board inside the original flasher. Yes it works. I think it’s a pretty dubious solution though. First of all that’s the electrical path for the hyperflash that lets you know when a bulb is burnt out, so that won’t work any more. Second, it increases current flow through a transistor inside the flasher. Those transistor are out of production now with no known substitution. Do that mod at your own risk - you may find that you shorten the lifespan of the original flasher module.
3. The circuit inside the flasher is a basic oscillator that triggers a relay. Oscillator circuits can be tuned to run at different speeds in a stable fashion. That’s what I do. I don’t cut out a resistor. I use high quality Panasonic and Nichicon parts - not junk. If you want the secret sauce find a circuit book that covers various oscillator designs, it’s all in there.
4. I’ve bought several of the cheapo flasher modules, and a couple expensive ones that turned out to be repackaged cheapo units. Absolute dumpster fire construction inside. The lowest quality components (prone to early failure), flux all over the PC boards (which can become conductive over time and cause shorts), very poor soldering (prone to cracking from vibrations). What does that mean? They’re probably not gonna last very long. Maybe some do and that’s great, but it’s going to be hit and miss. So what, keep buying a string of $15 units over and over? The originals have lasted 30-40 years at this point, proving their worth - why fight upstream against that? Just modify the oscillator the right way with good parts and keep it rolling. The relay in every one I open looks like it just left the factory, no signs of arcing or flash welding. They are seriously robust units, Toyota put in a relay that was overkill for the job - but that’s why we buy Toyotas.
