- Thread starter
- #61
We will offer this piece separately. Actually this piece should arrive next week. I will inspect after receiving it, then put on the web store.
ARCHIVE Technical Details: Topnault's FJ40 Mid-70s Tubs and More
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- #63
We are working on optimizing the storage space, so our plan is to pre-build large assemblies and store them in our factory's warehouse in China, and only keep the minimum quantity of large assemblies in California warehouse. If this is done, the lead time from order to delivery to customer's address will be 30-40 days. I believe most of the customers need some planning time anyway. I hope this will be acceptable.
I wasn't complaining as you have proven to be a reputable company who stands behind their products! I just wanted to make sure the Mud community was aware. Saves you a headache if someone complains, and saves them from complaining, lol. I would rather pay and know I was in line to receive my stuff whenever it is ready, and I would also prefer to wait to get a quality product! Thank you again for all your hard work on this. I will be happy to post up an unboxing and installation of the half doors on my 40 and post it in a few places. I really think they will be one of your best sellers. Now... let's talk about some soft tops with hardware and some steel rear fender flares! 
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. A comment and a question. Comment first.
I 100% agree with cruisermatt that you could sell a significant quantity of patch panels IF they are produced to accurately match OEM Toyota sheet metal.
I looked at the TP Auto Parts website and specifically at the ambulance doors. The website says "For FJ40 Toyota Land Cruiser 1975-1984". Well, yes Toyota equipped 1975-1984 FJ40s with ambulance doors during that era, but the 1975-1978 doors are different than the 1979-1984 doors.
The 1975-1978 doors have square corners on the lower outer corners, and the later ones have rounded corners. The website has a photo of a later style ambulance door above a photo of the back of an earlier style FJ40. Look at the lower right corner of the doors and you'll see they aren't the same. Are you planning on offering the earlier style ambulance doors?
I 100% agree with cruisermatt that you could sell a significant quantity of patch panels IF they are produced to accurately match OEM Toyota sheet metal.
I looked at the TP Auto Parts website and specifically at the ambulance doors. The website says "For FJ40 Toyota Land Cruiser 1975-1984". Well, yes Toyota equipped 1975-1984 FJ40s with ambulance doors during that era, but the 1975-1978 doors are different than the 1979-1984 doors.
The 1975-1978 doors have square corners on the lower outer corners, and the later ones have rounded corners. The website has a photo of a later style ambulance door above a photo of the back of an earlier style FJ40. Look at the lower right corner of the doors and you'll see they aren't the same. Are you planning on offering the earlier style ambulance doors?
- Thread starter
- #66
Thank you for pointing this out! We will correct it!
- Thread starter
- #67
We will figure out the cost factor before making the decision.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I/79 Toyota made major changes to the way the 40 series tubs were made. A pillar changed, floor changed and rear sill changed. The 1/79+ rear sill ir rounds on the corners where the door opening is. The ambulance doors corners are rounds to match. Earlier have square corners in the sill and ambulance doors.
My pieced together FJ40 with post 1/79 tub and ambulance doors.
10/75 FJ40 with all original parts
- Thread starter
- #69
Thank you! One good news: we have both round and straight corner doors already. We will have some in next month!
- Thread starter
- #70
We also made the hinges for the barn doors.
I will confess I have a rust issue with my 1978 right ambulance door. I purchased a "patch panel" from Real Steel Cruiser Parts and am sincerely disappointed in the product I received. Yes, I suppose I'm "pickier" than most, but "patch panel" implies a level of fitment, and the actual level of fitment is pathetic. I don't need to pay $180 for a part that doesn't fit. I can make one myself that doesn't fit for probably $10.
The point being, there is a marketplace for quality patch panels that is not being met. I hate to buy an entire door if a patch panel (that actually fits) can be bought at a significantly lower price. But right now I'm thinking I took 180 bucks, and threw it away. It's not a good feeling....
The point being, there is a marketplace for quality patch panels that is not being met. I hate to buy an entire door if a patch panel (that actually fits) can be bought at a significantly lower price. But right now I'm thinking I took 180 bucks, and threw it away. It's not a good feeling....
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
This picture of your barn doors shows the mount for the later license plate bracket. US market have really two different uses of barn doors. Those who want use them for when they take the top off their 1/75+ hard top with ambulance doors. The other the E-1/75 hard top models. Those most have a different license plate bracket. Early in 74 license plate bracket changed to the style your making but up until 75 the spare tire was on the right side. Doors are also designed to open the right side first which is the opposite for the pre 75 models.
I'm trying to be helpful and not critical of your work. Think it's great the parts your making. Plus I understand originally only had a eighties 40 series to work with.
I'm trying to be helpful and not critical of your work. Think it's great the parts your making. Plus I understand originally only had a eighties 40 series to work with.
- Thread starter
- #73
Thank you for pointing this out! I really appreciate your input, which helps us a lot!
- Thread starter
- #74
We took the barn doors off the web store temporary until the correct revision is available. Thank you again!
Tim,
I appreciate your desire to create parts that are correct, as opposed to parts accurately described as "wrong, but will fit”.
In that light, I took some photos of the correct mounting bracket, the license plate bracket that attaches to it, as well as a door. Then I put all three together as they would be installed.
Here’s the mounting bracket. The four holes toward the corners are where I drilled out the spot welds that held the bracket to the door. In the center raised section, the two smaller holes are where the license plate light attaches, and that also secures the license plate bracket to the mounting bracket. The larger center hole is for the power wire that feeds the license plate light.
Here’s the license plate bracket.
And the door. You can see two holes at the bottom. There are captive nuts inside and that's where the license plate bracket attaches with bolts. The hole just above the center is where the wires that supply power to the license plate light pass through the door.
And everything positioned the way they would be installed.
I hope this helps...
I appreciate your desire to create parts that are correct, as opposed to parts accurately described as "wrong, but will fit”.
In that light, I took some photos of the correct mounting bracket, the license plate bracket that attaches to it, as well as a door. Then I put all three together as they would be installed.
Here’s the mounting bracket. The four holes toward the corners are where I drilled out the spot welds that held the bracket to the door. In the center raised section, the two smaller holes are where the license plate light attaches, and that also secures the license plate bracket to the mounting bracket. The larger center hole is for the power wire that feeds the license plate light.
Here’s the license plate bracket.
And the door. You can see two holes at the bottom. There are captive nuts inside and that's where the license plate bracket attaches with bolts. The hole just above the center is where the wires that supply power to the license plate light pass through the door.
And everything positioned the way they would be installed.
I hope this helps...
- Thread starter
- #76
Thank you!!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Tim, there is a stiffener (inverted hat section) that is welded to the underside of the 1977 tubs (and probably earlier, but I can't find any documentation on when it was added and what production years carried it), at the seam where the floor rises behind the front seats. This stiffener is mounted across the floor, from the driver's side to the passenger side.
This is a common rust area, since the hat section is upside down and holds water and dirt. I couldn't find details of the underside of the '77 tubs on your website, but I thought since this was a welded component of the full floor you might be able to supply this part separately. This would be beneficial, since a replacement would save a floor if it was rusted and the floor was salvageable.
I could provide photos, but all I have are the rusted ends of mine!
Driver's side, behind seat, at mid floor, looking forward:
Mid floor, center of cab, looking forward:
This is a common rust area, since the hat section is upside down and holds water and dirt. I couldn't find details of the underside of the '77 tubs on your website, but I thought since this was a welded component of the full floor you might be able to supply this part separately. This would be beneficial, since a replacement would save a floor if it was rusted and the floor was salvageable.
I could provide photos, but all I have are the rusted ends of mine!
Driver's side, behind seat, at mid floor, looking forward:
Mid floor, center of cab, looking forward:
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- Thread starter
- #78
This helps a lot. Thank you so much. But one concern I have is that the license plate holder bracket sample we have is different from the photo you provided. Any idea about that? Please see the picture:
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- #79
this is a SA model cruiser, we didn’t get barn doors with two holes in the hinges like this. The American versions all had the three holes and bracket like the gentleman posted above.
