Tech questions on 4" lift.

[fjwagon]

I just installed a 4" lift using alcan springs. The question that I have is why is the shock rubbering on the draglink rod...what the easiest way to fix this problem. And do I need to install a high steering kit as well when installing a lift this high. I also hope I installed the shocks correctly. I also enclosed a pic of my other 40 without a lift so you can see the difference.

 

[woody]

let the springs break in before you judge the steering, but you may need to address that drag link angle...some chance for bump steer there, for sure...

lightened your pic, is the boot all that's rubbing? if yes, then ditch it....rubber boots on shocks are nothing more than mud/dirt/moisture grabbers and it will greatly accellerate the rustage of the nice chrome shafts on those shocks....

 

[SPRDAV]

If you are talking about the first pic (blue 40) then turn the shock the other direction and see if that clearance will work with the drag link??? Also, like woody says the leafs need sometime to adjust.

 

[fjwagon]

It seems that way. It now has a hole in boot from one day of driving. And yes it does now have some bump steer......when you hit a bump and wants to go the left or right....it not too bad. So what is the best avanue to address this typ of problem. I was looking at a highsteering kit....will this fix it.....you think.

let the springs break in before you judge the steering, but you may need to address that drag link angle...some chance for bump steer there, for sure...

lightened your pic, is the boot all that's rubbing? if yes, then ditch it....rubber boots on shocks are nothing more than mud/dirt/moisture grabbers and it will greatly accellerate the rustage of the nice chrome shafts on those shocks....

 

[fjwagon]

the blue one has the original lift and the yellow is the one in question. I tried doing this to the yellow to no avail....the clearance from the shock/draglink rod was the same regardless.

If you are talking about the first pic (blue 40) then turn the shock the other direction and see if that clearance will work with the drag link??? Also, like woody says the leafs need sometime to adjust.

 

[trucruiser]

I think your front shocks are upside down.

 

[woody]

body up, rod down is the proper way to mount a Bilstein 5125 shock...it is a "common" issue tho for shocks to be pretty snug on the relay rod (or is that the drag link...relay from the box to the center arm, drag from the center to the tie rod...I think)

anyways, it'll be close...your only "fix" is to remove/relocate the axle-side mount a tad further out on the housing...but too much and you'll dent the shock with the steering knuckle (ask me how I know.....)

 

[fjwagon]

HUh...I think you are right. everyone I ask did not have an answer. It looks like I will call the bilstein people and see what they tell. It's not that hard to flip them the other way.

I think your front shocks are upside down.

 

[fjwagon]

Ok Good to know Woody. The instructions for the shocks did not incicate one way or the other. My way of thinking was the if the writing is upside down with the booty up...to me that would be wrong.....now why would bilstein advertise thier stuff upside down.

I was hoping someone out there already booty fabbed something. I think I will fab something up on the drag link rod....I think this is the easiest mod and the fastest way to put it back to original if I decide to go to a soa set up. So far I like it. About the only thing I don't like is it goes from side to side when I hit a bump. Thanks for your responses .

HUh...I think you are right. everyone I ask did not have an answer. It looks like I will call the bilstein people and see what they tell. It's not that hard to flip them the other way.

 

[PabloCruise]

I am surprised no one has mentioned the F250 mount yet...

I think it rubs because:
1- you change the geometry btwn shock tower and axle when you lift
2- aftermarket shocks look to be thicker than the OEM toyota that came on our rigs...

I could be wrong on these!

 

[fjwagon]

Pablo, I really don't want to mess with the tower...I may change the steering or go with a soa or back to orginal...maybe not back to origianl. I was stumpped when I installed them. I really only need about a 3/8's of an inch which will clear but I was hoping to hear something like an easy fix. Yeah yeah. Back to the drawing board. I appreciate you comments. Thanks Any one have pics of there 4" lift w/similiar circumstances?

I am surprised no one has mentioned the F250 mount yet...

I think it rubs because:
1- you change the geometry btwn shock tower and axle when you lift
2- aftermarket shocks look to be thicker than the OEM toyota that came on our rigs...

I could be wrong on these!

 

[TonkaC]

you have to cut off the shock mount from the axle and then move it outboard an inch or so. It will correct it self when you do a sag steering upgrade, but moving the mount should be good for now. I had to do the same thing with my SOA with the stock steering.

 

[spotcruiser]

it is a "common" issue tho for shocks to be pretty snug on the relay rod (or is that the drag link...relay from the box to the center arm, drag from the center to the tie rod...I think)

Drag link from box to the center arm. Relay rod from center arm to PS steering arm. Tie rod from PS to DS steering arm.

 

[Poser]

According to Hoyle?

 

[TexomaFJ40]

You can always weld in a spacer to move the linkage rod away from the shock. I had this problem when installing my 4".

Follow link for fix (I cannot post pics without getting a page not found error):

 

[fjwagon]

That looks doable......I just might do that thanks for your input. It's easy enough to put back original if I had to.

You can always weld in a spacer to move the linkage rod away from the shock. I had this problem when installing my 4".

Follow link for fix (I cannot post pics without getting a page not found error):

 

[fjwagon]

This is how it turned out after the lift.....the before and after pics