iptman
SILVER Star
Nuts. I got to figure out how to get my doors to shut better.
Tech Day 24 February at OTRAMM
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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Boy Ryan is right on that one. The bolts that secure the upper hinges are difficult to get at and from the factory the hinges are sealed. Doable, like anything but not easily. I'd hate to see that nice paint on your 40 get marred adjusting the hinges.
1MOA
SILVER Star
Just slam the doors harder.
iptman
SILVER Star
No dice. It's brand new weather striping and it's just too stiff up front for the back to close any further than the first notch on the latch.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
Adjust the latch out further til the weatherstrip ensquishulates some more.
iptman
SILVER Star
I've moved the catch, not the latch. But the real problem is the door as it is leaves a gap between the weather striping and the hard top/body along the rear edge of the door. It needs to go in another half to 3/4 of an inch. I guess you all can see it next week and hopefully give me some ideas to try.
I guess I’m not stupid then removing all doors off the Landcruiser’s I own. Tube doors never seem to cause problems except when it rains.
I'm with you on that Jeff. I think this is the last winter I'll use my hard top. Probably sell it once spring comes around and get some soft doors and a soft top.
Looks like this tech day is booked solid. I need to do a front axle rebuild on my 40. Was gonna do it myself in my garage but you guys scared me with all the talk about the 'centering tool' and blowing seals. Maybe next one....
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
I put a video how to up last week on knuckle rebuilds. It's not hard just time consuming and messy.
- Thread starter
- #51
You usually don't have to is the centering tool, if the shims we're kept in the correct places throughout its life.
If you know when the last one was done. And if you don't have knuckle soup. You will not need the centering tool just keep track of your shims.
If you can do basic math and follow instructions (at the same time) the centering tool is not hard to use.
If you can do basic math and follow instructions (at the same time) the centering tool is not hard to use.
One side is leaking, other side is not.
iptman
SILVER Star
I'll bring the club centering tool so you can at least have the option.
If you don't know when they were rebuilt. The seal may just be warn or damaged when the shaft was installed. Keep track of the shim and double check with the centering tool. If the number is close then the shims may be wrong.
Clear as mud!
iptman
SILVER Star
I finally got around to testing the gear mesh pattern. The marking paint didn't really rub off where I painted it on the ring but the transfer from the ring to the pinion back to the ring seems ok to my untrained eye.
- Thread starter
- #57
What did you paint, the pinion gear or the ring gear? I don't see a pattern at all
iptman
SILVER Star
I painted the ring. Here's where I painted it. It's pretty faint but there's a little pattern there. I had to spin it a bunch of times to get it to show this much.
- Thread starter
- #59
Were you worried about the pattern to begin with? If it were a well used 3rd, I would imagine that the ring gear would have the pattern pretty well represented without having to paint it... I'd be looking at the spider gears for rounding and feathering...
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iptman
SILVER Star
Not worried, just figured I'd check it before installing. I think this is the front 3rd from the previous truck it was in so it didn't show any wear that I could tell. This is the first time I'm messing with 3rds so I'm just trying to get as much out of it as possible. I was hoping for something a little more conclusive.
