Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (8 Viewers)

[gswest]

I did finally figure out what and where my glow plug controller is. It was tucked in behind some wires in my dash. Of course I saw it when I took all the wiring out, I just didn't know what it was. and the PO didn't have it mounted correctly in the hole on the right side of the dash. He had some type of aftermarket light in there that was burned out?? It wasn't connected to the glow plug system so I don't know what it was for. But my issue is the glow plug controller doesn't glow. The glow plugs heat up fine and if I hold the key for 20 seconds, it fires right up every time. It would be nice to have the glow indicator work though. I took it apart and the coiled wire is intact, everything looks good, but it won't glow. I held the key for 30 seconds and nothing. It does get hot though. I know Tom (LostMarbles) has a great knowledge of these diesels and has written several pieces about the glow plug controllers and the various issues. So Tom, chime in here because those controllers aren't available I don't think, but there's probably a way to make mine work. My glow plugs are 8.5V and the controller is a closed unit not like your open one.

 

[gswest]

While I wait for the roof to get finished, I needed to get after my starter issue which is it starts great cold but as it warms up it slows down to the point that it barely turns the motor over. A new (rebuilt) starter is about $300 with core charge plus shipping. Luckily I have a good shop nearby that rebuilds starters and generators. The guy there pointed out several issues like the brushes were shot and my cable was too small, and I forgot the engine to chassis ground cable. So, he's taking care of rebuilding the starter and making me up some heavy guage cables, not the little stuff you get at the parts stores. Also, when the truck gets up to temperature, there's a familiar noise coming from the fan belt area. Its familiar because my Vortec engine in the 62 started making the same noise when one of the idler pulley bearings went bad. So, I ordered a new pulley and will hopefully have it before I need to drive the rig down to get the roof reinstalled.

 

[geoffnlp]

I have just finished reading this whole thread and all I can say is a fantastic job, very informative, and a Beautiful Beautiful Troopy, I just imported an FJ45 Troopy from down under and will be starting to get it in shape and have been totally inspired by your work. Great job GS, Cheers, Geoff.

 

[lostmarbles]

I did finally figure out what and where my glow plug controller is. It was tucked in behind some wires in my dash. Of course I saw it when I took all the wiring out, I just didn't know what it was. and the PO didn't have it mounted correctly in the hole on the right side of the dash. He had some type of aftermarket light in there that was burned out?? It wasn't connected to the glow plug system so I don't know what it was for. But my issue is the glow plug controller doesn't glow. The glow plugs heat up fine and if I hold the key for 20 seconds, it fires right up every time. It would be nice to have the glow indicator work though. I took it apart and the coiled wire is intact, everything looks good, but it won't glow. I held the key for 30 seconds and nothing. It does get hot though. I know Tom (LostMarbles) has a great knowledge of these diesels and has written several pieces about the glow plug controllers and the various issues. So Tom, chime in here because those controllers aren't available I don't think, but there's probably a way to make mine work. My glow plugs are 8.5V and the controller is a closed unit not like your open one.

Hi Scott

If the coil inside your controller is complete and your controller has the correct part number on it (28550-47040) then it's likely to be OK.

(47040 is apparently the correct part number for a 12V HJ47 running six 8.5V plugs.)

A good investment would be a clip-on DC ammeter so you can maybe compare your current draw to someone with the same manual glow system but where the controller is glowing properly.

A lower than usual current draw would cause this problem so you need all your busbar connections to be clean and sound etc. (Similarly for the high-current connections elsewhere, such as on your glow relay.)

And burnt contacts inside your glow relay could account for the problem too.

And if the high-current feed wires are undersized that would account fore the problem too.

Have you gone through this thread at the top of the diesel section?:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-plugs-should-i-be-running-b-2b-3b-h-and-2h-diesels.471567/

If the PO didn't have your controller in the correct position, was it just left hanging by its wires? (Sounds odd to me because a lot of current passes through a controller and you wouldn't want its terminals to shortcircuit onto any nearby metal!

And if they replaced your controller with a light, then that would have involved altering the wiring so maybe this altered wiring (or the way it was then converted back to how it is supposed to be) is responsible for your problem?

 

[gswest]

Thanks Geoff , I'll look in on your project.
I'll go through that thread Tom, and check all the various connections, because the wire in the controller is fine and there appears to be no issue with it otherwise. I'll also check out the glow plug relay.
Thanks

 

[gswest]

I re-installed the rear seats after doing some painting on the frames and backs. The roof is

supposed to be ready this week??

 

[gswest]

While the roof is getting done, I found a new set of 5 BFG All terrains with wheels that will accept the stock hubcaps. Albert over at my local cruiser shop (Stoney's) had a customer who had these wheels and tires and decided to go another route. I may paint them to match the body color or maybe even black. These wheels were modified but I really didn't understand what was done. I think the centers were reversed by cutting them out and re-welding them back in the opposite configuration;

presumably to get a wider stance?? I have to get my own hubcaps which will all be the front style with the opening for the locking hubs in the front and large axles in the back.

 

[gswest]

I decided to get the wheels powder coated satin black. And the roof is almost ready for

paint.

 

[geoffnlp]

Looks great, what size are the tires and wheels?

 

[gswest]

The tires I'm going with are 32 X 12.5 x 16 I think. I would have gone with 33's, but the deal made sense. I'm not sure on the width of the wheel, I'll find out when I go pick it up. I hadn't seen these size wheels with the hub cap's anywhere. They may be available, I'd just not come across them. The original split rims are the stock type for non-USA markets at the time. Skinny 16" wheels. I'm selling them to anyone interested. They have the stock split rims used online in the $125 range. I've got 5 W/ tires mounted.

 

[447xpro]

Would you sell just the wheels?

 

[gswest]

yes, I'd sell the wheels only.

 

[gswest]

The roof is painted and on on the truck. The headliner still needs to be installed. The tires are now mounted correctly. Taller tires would look better in my opinion, but for day to day driving with the 4 speed around town, the 32"s are fine. Stoney's straightened a tie rod and did an alignment on the front end, so it should run down the road better,

although I thought it was fine before.

 

[lostmarbles]

Looks fabulous Scott!

 

[gswest]

Thanks Tom!

 

[geoffnlp]

Looks Fantastic, great work.

 

[82cruiser]

Great work - looks awesome!

 

[gswest]

Thanks guys.

 

[sheepdawg]

I love this rig. Someday I hope to have a troopie as nice as yours. Pure admiration my friend.

 

[gswest]

Thanks Sheeepdawg, I love your sheepdog picture. That's hilarious!