Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (2 Viewers)

[cult45]

Hey gs, I remember reading your thread back when it was but one or two pages young. Good to see you've come so far!

The 3.70's, do you think they're as strong as 4.11's?

 

[gswest]

I'm doing around 2100 RPMs at maybe 50 MPH. The truck cannot do the national speed limit. So, either a 5 speed conversion or this much less expensive alternative. I may do the 5 speed eventually, but for now, this is something I can do for not a whole ton of money. What do you think the down side is to lowering my engine speed? Other than some reduction in acceleration from a stoplight. (Not that that isn't important), that's the whole reason I did the Turbo Glide install.

 

[tarenja]

Great thread. I've just made a post asking how do I get the rear and side glass out of a HJ troopy. I have significant rust around these areas. Obviously you got yours out ok. Can you offer me any advice please?

 

[gswest]

On the up side, the battery charging issue is fixed. It was the voltage regulator! I ordered a new OEM Toyota VR and the battery is now getting 14.5 V from the alternator. I'm wondering if the turbo exhaust flange, which is 1 inch from the Voltage regulator, may be frying the VR internals??
I got some reflective wrap for the VR, but I think I may get some exhaust wrap for the turbo exhaust outlet which can get up to 900 degree F. I'm posting up some pics of the VR with the turbo exhaust flange.

 

[gswest]

By the way guys, the voltage regulator was bad. The original one was bad and the new NAPA one did not work. So the one I got from Spector
(which is a Toyota unit ) works. Thanks for the help. I am wondering if the turbo exhaust flange which is 1 inch fro the VR may be frying the internals ?? i wrapped the new VR with reflective insulation.

 

[lostmarbles]

Shame to hide that beautiful OEM VR Scott but I guess heat (from the close proximity of your turbo-modified exhaust mainifold) could well be the issue here..

I'm surprised you can still get a genuine OEM 27700-15040 too!!

 

[Racer65]

You may be better off moving that regulator to a different location.

 

[bj40green]

You may be better off moving that regulator to a different location.

X2

Rudi

 

[cult45]

I'm doing around 2100 RPMs at maybe 50 MPH. The truck cannot do the national speed limit. So, either a 5 speed conversion or this much less expensive alternative. I may do the 5 speed eventually, but for now, this is something I can do for not a whole ton of money. What do you think the down side is to lowering my engine speed? Other than some reduction in acceleration from a stoplight. (Not that that isn't important), that's the whole reason I did the Turbo Glide install.

Yeah cool, I get it. I had considered 3.70's for my rig and was curious if they are as strong/stronger/less strong than 4.11's.

 

[gswest]

If I can't get that exhaust section wrapped, I will relocate the VR. There's so little room there to fashion a good heat shield.

 

[gswest]

Tarenja,
I had to cut the gaskets from the inside to get the side windows out. I intended to replace them anyway. Turns out the gaskets/ weatherstripping is not available. So if yours is good, I'd get some advice from a pro. Otherwise, re-using the original sliding windows is nearly impossible. I believe the inner seals that the glass slides on is not available either. That's what I've discovered. But do some research, you may find it, but I couldn't.

 

[gswest]

While I'm waiting on a heater blower resistor from Cruiserparts, I decided to start the clean up on the 3.70 differentials. I got the differential gaskets in, but now I realize i should have ordered the axle seal kit as well.

So for now, I'll just clean them up and wait for the other parts.

 

[gswest]

I guess its go time. The seals and bearings are here.

 

[tarenja]

I just came across this fantastic site. I'm about to tackle a significant rust repair in the sides of my HJ47. Is it difficult to separate the side panels into their 3 components? I see 2 examples of it having been done on this site so it gives me some hope. I' assuming it incvolves drilling out the spot welds but any advice I can get would be well received.

 

[gswest]

I didn't have to separate my side panels,so I can't give much advice there. But the guys who have done that could help I,m sure.
Good luck!

 

[gswest]

For those like me who've never replaced a differential; you may find that the mating flanges are different. I never thought about that and assumed that if the diffs were interchangeable then the flanges would match up. Not so! The 3.70 diff is from a "86 or "87 60 series which has a larger yoke/flange. They don't match, as you can see from the 2 pictures. I called the guy I got the diffs from and he told me the year and model they came from and I went on the SOR website to get the correct yokes (and new u-joints) for these diffs. Looking at their site, I could see that there are several different yokes depending on the year. Another lesson on the long journey towards Cruiser wisdom. But, I should have thought to check before I started, now I'm waiting on parts again. Next lesson; u-joint replacement 101. I'm going to Harbor Freight for a U-joint press tool!

 

[geoffnlp]

GS, appreciate the info, I am planning on doing the same down the road and you saved me a headache, thanks for all the info in your build thread.
Happy New Year.

 

[gswest]

Happy New Year Geoff!

 

[lostmarbles]

.... you may find that the mating flanges are different. I never thought about that and assumed that if the diffs were interchangeable then the flanges would match up. Not so! The 3.70 diff is from a "86 or "87 60 series which has a larger yoke/flange. They don't match, as you can see from the 2 pictures. I called the guy I got the diffs from and he told me the year and model they came from and I went on the SOR website to get the correct yokes (and new u-joints) for these diffs. Looking at their site, I could see that there are several different yokes depending on the year. Another lesson on the long journey towards Cruiser wisdom. But, I should have thought to check before I started, now I'm waiting on parts again. Next lesson; u-joint replacement 101. I'm going to Harbor Freight for a U-joint press tool!

From what I've read, the common solution is to drill another set of 4 holes to suit the smaller flange Scott (and locate them equidistant from the existing ones for strength/engineering-best-practice).

 

[gswest]

I thought about that Tom and in the end I was worried about vibrations or balance issues, if I didn't get the holes perfect so it was centered properly. But it sounds like people have done it so it must be possible. I did manage to get the rear u-joint out. I think it may have been in there 20 years or more because I spent at least 2 hours getting it out, but again, it was the first u-joint I've ever removed. I used a ball joint tool (giant C-clamp), an impact wrench, a grinder with a cut-off wheel, a big F-ing hammer and a giant drift with some serious profanity thrown in ; it's out! The next one should be easier.