Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (2 Viewers)

[gswest]

If the 90 degree bends have a curve also, then I welded 2 pieces together. If the 90 degree bends don't also curve, then I bend them by hand. I don't have a lot of experience, so I go by trial and error and some good advice from people here on Mud.

 

[gswest]

Last door to fix! It doesn't look too bad from the front, but then when I cut away some of the back, it's turns out to be very "crusty". Obviously, we have some work to do if this is expected to last more than a few months in the outdoors.

 

[gswest]

I decided to take off most of the bottom section of the door. Whats the point of all of this if I dont get all the rust. Big pain in the Arse though, and I have more rot to cut out before it's all gone.

 

[gswest]

Started the welding again.

 

[gswest]

Another step done.

 

[gswest]

A little more done. I welded a 1/8th strip of metal around this curve to match the way the rest of this section looks. Then I grinded it down to the 1/16ths or smaller size. Obviously this detail adds some regidity to that section. A real body guy might do it differently becuase he has the tools to bend metal for this application; I have to improvise.

 

[lostmarbles]

Looks pretty good there Gswest.

But I think it'll be important to "wick" some decent primer like POR15 (which wicks into crevices very well) right into that region from the inside to prevent your new steel and welds from turning to rust in the future. (I'd do two coats too.)



(I don't think tectyl, fishoilene or similar by itself would provide any lasting protection in such a rust-prone area.)

 

[gswest]

I've heard about POR15 and will see about getting some ordered. There is some minor rust pitting along the bottom edge that Id like to not have to cut out and replace. Hopefully that POR stuff will help.

 

[BJ41]

this is class .. really liking this rebuild.
Whats is it about folks on mud, plenty of people start off with 'I'm not the best at welding, but I'll give it a go".
And its like once they start, they become welding experts, cutting, fabricating, welding and grinding ...
I'm really impressed !!

 

[lostmarbles]

I've heard about POR15 and will see about getting some ordered. There is some minor rust pitting along the bottom edge that Id like to not have to cut out and replace. Hopefully that POR stuff will help.

Beware though.

Some people are against POR15 due to the work involved with using it properly. (Work doesn't scare us OCD-suffers though. )

To get it to work properly in there you'd need first to wash out all grease and dirt (and POR15 sell a product called Marine Clean for this) and then neutralise surface-rust and prep the bare metal for proper paint adhesion (and POR15 sell a product called Metal Ready for this).

And of course the door would need to be thoroughly dry before you start painting. (And I like to have an item like that warmed-up above ambient temperature using a hair drier or similar too.)

And you'll need long brushes (probably with their ends purpose-bent) to get right in there.

And best to do the insides before painting the outsides because you'll find the primer will, if you do it properly, dribble out all the seams and drain channels and this outside-mess will need to be wiped away before the paint sets.

Another thing about POR15, it expands as it sets. So once it has wicked-into a narrow joint, the setting process forces the paint in further.



PS. I sound like a salesman for the stuff .. but I'm not!

 

[gswest]

I ordered the POR 15 today and I saw the other items you're mentioning. I guess I'll order that as well. I don't need much and I can use the remaining product on my 62 which has some serious rot going on around the windshield and around two other windows. It's depressing to see the rust eating away at the beast. I did get to another spot on the door today.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Just a warning about POR15 - if you only use part of a can you must properly seal it or the product will cure inside the sealed can and ruin what's left . Use inert welding gas such as CO2 or Argon - if doing this make sure the ground on the welder cannot make a circuit to the can of paint as it can explode when you hit the trigger . Just fill the can with gas , cover the top with plastic food wrap (2 layers works good) and hammer that lid back on . I've stored partial cans over a year and it works just fine .
Sarge

 

[gswest]

Thanks for the tip, I'll try it.

 

[gswest]

I got most of the back side of the door done today. Just need to finish the corner and smooth it all out with the grinder. I may have to straighten the front a little after all this heat hit the metal. I looked at it after today's welding and grinding and one of the lower corners looks like it moved outward or inward a bit.

 

[gswest]

I got the first part of my POR 15 order in from Eastwood. Still waiting on the actual POR coating. I ordered a pint and that should be enough although I will try the argon/CO2 technique to preserve the remaining product. Hopefully I don't blow the house down with the MIG welder trying to squeeze gas into that paint can. I'm a fireman, don't try this at home..... KABOOM!

 

[gswest]

Since it's not in a real visible area, I think I'll use some filler and smooth this area out as opposed to paying the body shop guys to do it. Then I'll use the POR 15 on the inside and hope for the best. They do make a repair patch for this whole inside lower area, but it's about $240 (Spector OFF Road). My repair may not look as good now, I'm happy saving the cash and don't think it will look too noticeable after its filled and painted.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I need to make a video or something to better explain how to preserve chemicals with inert gasses - one spark with the wrong stuff could be disastrous .
Best method is to trigger the welder well away from the can - on a mig you could remove the welding filler wire from the drive spool wheels to prevent it from feeding welding wire , trigger the gun and hold the trigger while filling the void in the can . With my tig it's even more dangerous with the 26kv high-frequency starter - I just move my ground cable off the table or disconnect it at the welder , trigger the starter away from the can and use the post-flow gas to fill the chemical can's void with argon .

Works great for storage, but a lot of potential for danger here.... Think I originally got this tip from Stacey David on Trucks years ago...
Sarge

 

[gswest]

I think I'll retract the wire back into the hose a bit and then trigger the nozzle just enough to fill the small void space. It's only a pint can so very little gas is needed. I'll keep the ground cable away of course.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Just be really careful - welders can find grounds in amazing ways sometimes . Some units you can simply unplug the wire feeder motor , make sure any time you are working around the drive rollers or spool you have the unit unplugged - some are hot all the time and can kill .
Sarge

 

[gswest]

Point taken.