Tearing down my HJ47 troopy

[gswest]

I got the case split off so now we’re getting closer to removing the 4 speed. The new 5 speed sits ready to be put online.

 

[gswest]

We got the 4 speed and the bell housing off today.

The flywheel comes off next so we can look at and replace the rear main seal.

 

[gswest]

I got the flywheel off and the rear seal has oil around it, so it is probably bad. I grinded the bell housing flange

to accommodate the 5 speed tranny. It now fits. I put marks on the inner area of the bell housing to show where we had to remove material to make it fit.

 

[gswest]

Pic 2 of bell housing test fit.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Cleaned and polished oil cooler and timing gear cover

Mindless work, but satisfying none the less.
View attachment 546297View attachment 546298

Awesome polish job. About to do this. Any tricks you can share?

 

[gswest]

That polish involved first cleaning it to the point it was thoroughly spotless. Using a dremel tool or similar which has some really small wire wheels that get in the tiny crevasses. Then you can get the rest with polishing wheels and polishing compound. To keep it that nice is not as easy. Maybe a clear coat of some type would do that.

 

[gswest]

Got the new rear main seal and the side cover gaskets in as well as the oil pan gasket (oil sump gasket as the guys down under call it).
Cleaning up the old gasket residue and preparing to re-install the oil pan and rear bearing seal carrier. Had to make a new gasket for the bearing carrier; I couldn’t find one available without buying a complete 2H engine gasket set.

 

[gswest]

Clutch assembly is installed. The bell housing and throw-out bearing assembly are installed. Waiting for the new 5-speed to be installed.

 

[gswest]

 

[gswest]

Spent an afternoon wrestling with the 5 speed. After several lone attempts with a tranny hoist , I finally got it lined up enough to
Get a few longer bolts connected. Still need to pull it tight with those bolts.

 

[gswest]

I got the 5 speed tightened up and re-installed the clutch slave cylinder and the starter. The crossmember thankfully matched right up to the new transmission. I had wrongfully thought I would have to fabricate a new crossmember. The 2 transmissions are the same up the extension on the back of the new version which houses the 5th gear. I’ll be making some cuts to the tranny hump opening since there are some clearance issues there.

 

[Bas Zuidberg]

Hi Gwest. Had a blast reading through your rebuild years. Really cool of you to have recorded it all in such detail. I was wondering how your bodywork is holding up after all these years? Did you have any rust come back? I recall discussions about using fishoil, zink primer and/or POR15 for the internals of the previously rusted bits. What is your opinion looking back at that? Many thanks & good luck with the H55F swap, are you going to install the original diffs again after the swap?

 

[gswest]

Thanks,
I haven’t had any obvious rust spots come back, other than a tiny spot on the rear lower sill area. I’ve kept it from getting hold with some rust inhibitor and touch up paint. Hopefully the POR15 is doing it’s job in those areas where I knew rust was lurking but couldn’t get into for removal. The rear diffs will stay at 3.73 I think. Right now it has 32” tires and going to 33” could lower the revs even more. I’ll see once I get it rolling again if the 4.11 diffs need to be put back in, Hopefully not, since I sold them.
We know these trucks aren’t really safe over a certain speed, so the point was just to make it a little bit more highway friendly.

 

[Bas Zuidberg]

Thanks,
I haven’t had any obvious rust spots come back, other than a tiny spot on the rear lower sill area. I’ve kept it from getting hold with some rust inhibitor and touch up paint. Hopefully the POR15 is doing it’s job in those areas where I knew rust was lurking but couldn’t get into for removal. The rear diffs will stay at 3.73 I think. Right now it has 32” tires and going to 33” could lower the revs even more. I’ll see once I get it rolling again if the 4.11 diffs need to be put back in, Hopefully not, since I sold them.
We know these trucks aren’t really safe over a certain speed, so the point was just to make it a little bit more highway friendly.

Cool. Thx for the reply. Will see if we have a similar product to POR15 here in South Africa!

 

[gswest]

I got the engine side panels off and re-gasketed them. Added gasket sealer this time. Hopefully no more oil leaks there. Next we’re waiting on some parts to get the parking brake installed back on the output shaft of the transfer case. I’ve seen here snd elsewhere that the drum E brake isn’t compatible with the later model splitcase. I’m looking at the two different output shafts and the only difference is my original transfer case shaft is longer, which gives it the needed length to carry the drum assembly. Spline count is the same. I don’t see why I can’t use my output shaft in the newer transfer case , which would allow me to use the original parking brake.
I need some expert advice here.

 

[gswest]

I talked to the guys over at Cruiserparts.net and they’re agreeing that my longer output shaft (same spline count) will work with the newer transfer case allowing me to use my existing drum parking brake. This saves me over $400 and the time and hassle of installing the disk parking brake mod.
We’ll keep our fingers crossed as I reassessmble the case. Still need the new bearings and seals though; Seem to be on back order still.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Doing a good job!

 

[gswest]

Thanks! We’re waiting on the transfercase rebuild kit, so I’ll be concentrating on modifying the transmission hump to give some room for the taller tranny.

 

[gswest]

Used a dremmel tool to cut away a small piece of the tunnel opening. Nothing is touching now so the vibrations should be minimizied.

 

[gswest]

While the transfercase waits for its new bearings, seals etc. I started the mod to the tunnel cover. I cant make the change for the transfercase shifter yet, but the transmission shifter has it’s final position, so I can make that alteration now. I decided to remove the section that has the captive nuts that hold the shifter boot as a whole. I just marked a circle large enough and cut the opening out. Then I made a identical opening where the new 5 speed shifter now exists. Next I’ll weld in a piece that fills in the opening.