TCase Output Bearing (1 Viewer)

[CHibbard]

Hi All,

I've searched and searched for this answer, but found nothing.

Can you replace the transfercase rear output bearing while the tcase is still mounted on the LC? I know you can replace the seal, but what about the bearing? Is it pressed in place or just a snug fit?

I have an 95 that appears to need the bearing replaced (185K) The noise has been isoltaed to the tcase output bearing. Local dealer wants 2K for the job and refuses to replace just the bearing.... they want to rebuild the entire tcase!

I will do work myself, but would hate to pull the entire tcase when the work can be done in place?

I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks in advance.
Craig

 

[cruiserdan]

The bearing can be replaced wth the case "in-frame'. I have not personally done it but a couple board members have.

 

[mickey_rubicon]

I need to replace the rear seal

Has anybody done a write-up on this. I did search the FAQ, but nothing or I dont know how to search properly. Mine leaks already about 15 drops per day. Let me know , thanks guys!

 

[SteveH]

Can you describe the noise and under what circumstances it happens? Why does the dealer suspect this bearing?

Thanks - Steve

 

[CHibbard]

Steve,

The sounds, much like a whine begins at 20mph and continues to 45mph. Putting a set of listening devices to the output bearing site clearly detects the bearing noise.

The dealer however (a side note, that the dealer I goto has been excellent over the past 10 years, however, my service writer is out on leave and the his replacement appears tp driven by $$$$$$) wants to pull the entire tcase and replace EVERY bearing inside. I know enough about bearings etc... because of my racing background and doing my own Hewland gearboxes. I know without a doubt that the only suspect bearing is the output bearing. Other areas checked for bearing noise was the drive shaft, pinion bearings F/R etc... all checked out fine, no noise, went to higher visc oil etc... no change in the noise. At this time there is no oil leak coming the seal area. I see from the FSM that this bearing is lubricated by the tcase oil pump. When my LC has been sitting for a week, with no driving, the noice is worse for the first 5 miles, then the bearing becomes lubricated and the noise is reduced.

I would also like to know how difficult it is to replace this bearing while still mounted in the frame. The FSM shows that it has to be pressed into place etc.... I guess if required I'll pull the rear cover off and replace it that way, but then my question is can I get at all the required bolts for removal etc...

I just hate to pay the dealer his price of 2K+ for job that can I do and get the required parts from CDan. I have the time and would like to keep the extra $$$ in my pocket.

Any and all input is greatly appreciated. I love my LC and baby it greatly. I just hate when a dealer is trying to rip me off when I know the real cause of the problem. That is what I'm feeling now.

Craig

 

[alia176]

Ok, I'll do a quick writeup for ya.

It went something like this.....

-order new seal and a bearing from CDAN.
-You'll need a Craftsman Lock Ring Pliers (Sears item #00947386000 Mfr. model #47386)
-order FIPG for sealing the two housings back up
-Order two 10mm hex key drain plugs if you so desire. One is magnetic, the other is not magnetic.
-Order a FSM from Cdan to make your life MUCH MUCH easier.
-if your vehicle is stock height, park on top of a set of ramps to give you lots of wiggle room.
-have a CLEAN work area. You're working inside your Tcase so cleanliness is very critical.
-Safety - chalk the rear wheels, wear eye protection.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-Drain the oil out of the Tcase (good time to replace both drain plugs with 10 mm hex key style)
-unscrew the speedo gear (don't drop the little short metal key that resides inside) and push it aside.
-unplug two connectors up top (neutral and 4low?)
-disconnect the rear drive shaft at the Tcase end. Let it rest on the ground. Mark both halves just in case.
-remove the vibration damper rubber thingie from the passenger side
-undo bunch of bolts around the extension housing. They're various lengths.
-with a heavy rubber mallet, try to break the rear extension housing loose.
-Once the rear extension is ready to come out, pay particular attention to the large 3" diam ring that goes in the oil pump area. It may fall out so keep an eye out for it. This is located on the same side of the Tcase as the speedo gear. The ring sits in a groove so if it falls out, no biggy.
-remove the rear extension housing and place it on the bench
-In order for you to get to the bearing, you'll need to remove the viscous coupling and speedo gear on the output shaft. These items are held on by lock rings. Simply work your way to the output bearing and remove items along the way.
-Remove the oil pump cover and work the round plate out of the shaft. You can push this round plate out by sticking your finger through the speedo gear drive hole.
-Remove the lock ring that retains the shaft inside the extension housing.
-When you're ready to pull the output shaft out, place the extension housing on a vise. Place the vise jaws on a protrusion, NOT on the sealing surface!
-hammer the shaft carefully out of the bearing. Don't drop anything on the ground. I placed a socket at the end of the shaft to protect it. The shaft will actually go through the bearing and out the other side.
-now, you'll see a HUGE lock ring that retains the bearing to the case. Remove that and then remove the bearing.
-replace the seal by removing the outer dust cover and the pry the seal out. Place a new seal and then re-install the dust cover.
-Reverse your steps for reinstllation.



Gotchas:

-don't let the rear driveshaft come apart! Mark the two halves just in case
-resist the urge to use a screwdriver to split the case apart. You may damage the machined sealing surface!
-bolts are various lengths so stick them on a card board box as you remove them
-Always make sure that you've removed all locking rings before prying/hammering on things.
-Torque everything
-When installing the extension housing onto the Tcase, the two halves may not come together easily. Rotate the front driveshaft back and forth while trying to close the gap between the two halves.
-Don't forget to place the 3" ring in the proper place before installing the rear extension housing.
-Install the speedo drive gear properly on the shaft and then install the speedo drive (the thing you unscrewed from outside the Tcase) to make sure it turns properly. Do this first on the bench first.
-Feel free to use air tools after you've broken the bolts loose.

Total time should be around 3 hours max. I'm sorry but I don't have any pics of this little adventure.

Good luck.

Ali

 

[CHibbard]

WOW! Ali this is great.

Just what I needed to know for removing the cover. Your input/advice is greatly appreciated. I'll get with CDan in the morning and order the required parts. Maybe CDan can creat a "kit" for this repair.

Thanks again and thanks to everyone who supports this forum. What a great place to exchange/share information for our much loved LC 80.

Craig

 

[alia176]

Has anybody done a write-up on this. I did search the FAQ, but nothing or I dont know how to search properly. Mine leaks already about 15 drops per day. Let me know , thanks guys!

A leaky seal *could* be an indication of a worn bearing. I'd replace both the bearing and the seal at the same time.

Ali

 

[alia176]

Craig,

You're welcome. Are you absolutely sure that it's the bearing and not the gears/sprockets? Usually, oil leak from that area is an indication of a bad bearing but your case may be different. If there's a way for you to safely listen to the Tcase while the wheels are turning, that'd be great.

Find a lift and lift all wheels off the ground, put her in drive and use a mechanical stethescope to isolate the sound. Boy, are you gonna be mad if the sound is still there after all of the work I mentioned above.

Ali

 

[OGBeno]

Uh, this should be a FAQ...Transfer Case Output Bearing Replacement.

Lots of stuff the FSM doesn't have--context.

 

[CHibbard]

Ali,

In my case there is no oil leak, just the bearing issue. I'm real confident that it is the bearing. The sound continues to worsen. Only a matter of time before the end of that bearing's duty cycle. However .....if it isn't, well ....I'll become a output bearing expert real fast.

Yes, Beno is right, this should become a FAQ.

Once I complete this project, I'll report back.......

Thanks again,
Craig

 

[Walking Eagle]

What if you're just replacing the seal? Do you still have take all the other steps?

 

[GXO]

yes, I am about to do this, you need to do all this to get to the seal.

I am doing the bearing and seal this or next week...

 

[landtoy80]

$2000
I spent that much for a NEW t-case with 1 yr warranty.

If the bearing is bad to the point it is damaging other bearings replacing the bad bearing will just cause problems down the road thus the reason for the dealer to want to replace them all.

How is your slip yoke on the rear drive shaft?
Are you greasing it, is it spitting grease out the shaft on to the muffler?
Make sure its not working like a hydro ax and pushing on the t-case like mine was

 

[mitch7391]

Re-opening an old thread here the suggested lock ring pliers by @alia176, are about 1-5/8" jaw opening... Was this more than enough, or are other sizes needed for the multiple lock rings? About to attempt this one and want to make sure I have all the tools first

 

[OGBeno]

I took a Craftsman snap ring plier and then ground down the ends so that the plier could grip the snap ring.

Other than that, not much to it.

 

[mitch7391]

Cheers for the advice beno I don't think I can get the craftsman ones over here, but I'll source them online and get them sent over!

 

[OGBeno]

Cheers for the advice beno I don't think I can get the craftsman ones over here, but I'll source them online and get them sent over!

Sorry. Mobile. Didn't see your location down under sir.

Any decent snap ring plier will work as long as it is one specifically for outward movement with a good flange (serrated, ideally).

Something like this:

Then grind down the interior radius to grasp the snap ring. It will be obvious fitment-wise.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

More Tips:
►Make a rough drawing of the tcase on cardboard. Make holes for the bolts to keep them in proper order. Many different size to deal with.
►There are nubs on the case to tap on to aid in separating the case.
► Use grease to hold the large bearing shim/s in place when assembling the case.
►Replace the bolts in tcase cross member with ~3" to lower the tcase. Make service much easier.
►Index oil pump drive prior to case assemble.

 

[mitch7391]

That's perfect Beno and Phil I really appreciate the advice! Will let you guys know how I go. Just waiting on parts atm