Tailgate Handle Reproduction?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

PabloCruise said:
I had read the link. If those are the stamped steel nuts that I am thinking of, I remain skeptical.

But I have been wrong before, I'm sure I will be wrong again!
Click to expand...

Ha, I was under the impression you just wanted a simple solution to bolt the printed handle to the tailgate so you could open and close it. If you plan to put a strap on it and use it for a recovery point then printing slightly over size threads on the stud then running a die nut after the fact might be a better option with a small flange nut,

Metric Jetnut, All Metal Locknut - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
 
What was the changeover year from 2pc to one? Isn’t the one pc handle stronger, or is there another reason for reproducing the 2pc?

Awesome to see this moving along...
 
scrapdaddy said:
On another note, when we get these made, the guys that had the riveted type will have to open up the space in the tailgate. The bolt style is wider and trying to get that spring in there inside the tailgate is a pain.
Click to expand...

What do you think about making the riveted style only and using "Low Profile Socket Sex Bolts" to hold it together?


Links for: Chicago Binding Screws, sex bolt, barrel nut barrel bolt post screw.

https://www.fastenright.com/products/general-fixings/sex-bolts-barrel-nuts



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y174V2W/?tag=ihco-20
 
Last edited:
@PabloCruise,

Another way to look at your attachment issue (bolting) from my limited understanding not only is taping difficult (see quote below copied from Shapeways forum) but the threads are somewhat fragile not to mention somewhat specialized tools to create them.

“Since my post above years ago, I have learned that the hardened stainless steel powder makes it extremely difficult to tap. There is very little chip formation. Most of the stainless steel powder is compressed into the body of the part instead of being cut. This causes the tap to bind very quickly. For some thread types, I would say that it is impossible to hand tap while others I'd say would be possible but extremely slow going if one doesn't break the tap. In all cases using CNC with a thread mill is very doable since the machining center can just sit and peck away at it. If one wanted to attempt hand tapping, I'd use either a solid carbide or a cobalt alloy tap, as high-speed steel tends to dull almost immediately with this material. I'd recommend the same for CNC thread milling as well.”

Link: 3D printing screw threads in steel?

My thought to form a stud in place of a threaded hole would in theory let you create a large radius at the base of the stud adding some strength there and using a single thread nut (Palnut) would let you design a stud with a radius at the root of the minor diameter as they are more of a “self-tapping” nut and don’t require a sharp 60° angle at the root again making a stronger stud without any secondary operation or special tools.





Basic%2BThread%2BConcepts.jpg
 
Ol Yeller said:
What was the changeover year from 2pc to one? Isn’t the one pc handle stronger, or is there another reason for reproducing the 2pc?
Click to expand...

Yeller,

They're all two pieces, just one has rivets and one has bolts holding them together. Both the same pieces. I don't know when or why they changed, but I do know if you break a spring or just want to get it plated, then the rivets have to be drilled out.
 
J Mack said:
What do you think about making the riveted style only and using "Low Profile Socket Sex Bolts" to hold it together?
Click to expand...

J Mack the links you posted would work good for the handles. You have to make the handles in two pieces, so using your Barry White screws would work. Trying to rivet them together would be a pain.
 
So, about the palnuts, I've used cheap ones before without much confidence in their holding power. Do the ones you're talking about cut some type of thread in the stud? Wouldn't the SS be hard to cut threads, just like the tap?

Question.... Think we could weld on that Stainless Steel? Maybe spot weld some nutsurts in the hole.
 
Pablo,

Maybe I was lying, here's a picture of my spare gate and the bolted handle won't go through the holes. I thought on my other gate it did fit. maybe I did have to assemble it inside the gate. I had mine replated and the spring cad. plated, so I know it was apart. Either way it will work great just a pain to get that spring right.

Double Nickels,

I'm guessing you made that plastic one, looks great and thanks again for stepping up and helping us solve a biggie.

IMG_3458.webp
 
J Mack said:
@PabloCruise,

Another way to look at your attachment issue (bolting) from my limited understanding not only is taping difficult (see quote below copied from Shapeways forum) but the threads are somewhat fragile not to mention somewhat specialized tools to create them.

“Since my post above years ago, I have learned that the hardened stainless steel powder makes it extremely difficult to tap. There is very little chip formation. Most of the stainless steel powder is compressed into the body of the part instead of being cut. This causes the tap to bind very quickly. For some thread types, I would say that it is impossible to hand tap while others I'd say would be possible but extremely slow going if one doesn't break the tap. In all cases using CNC with a thread mill is very doable since the machining center can just sit and peck away at it. If one wanted to attempt hand tapping, I'd use either a solid carbide or a cobalt alloy tap, as high-speed steel tends to dull almost immediately with this material. I'd recommend the same for CNC thread milling as well.”

Link: 3D printing screw threads in steel?

My thought to form a stud in place of a threaded hole would in theory let you create a large radius at the base of the stud adding some strength there and using a single thread nut (Palnut) would let you design a stud with a radius at the root of the minor diameter as they are more of a “self-tapping” nut and don’t require a sharp 60° angle at the root again making a stronger stud without any secondary operation or special tools.





Basic%2BThread%2BConcepts.jpg
Click to expand...

I do not know the solution here. I would love to know how Toyota did it back in the day.
I wonder if you could print it with a hole and then insert a stainless post to tap, grind the face smooth and polish?
A big concern about the stud idea is will it hit the tailgate before the piece is in place? You have to insert the arms, then swing the handle piece down.
I am confident we can figure this out!
 
Just thinking aloud:

Since you have an ability to print these is nylon, why not shift the focus a bit instead of printing in some sintered metal.

Print them in the correct type of wax, and send to a place that does lost wax casting? They’ll add a sprue/runner and cover in the slurry, bake the wax out and cast in stainless or whatever metal. Then it’s a matter of machine/polish/chrome.

I would imagine the printed texture on the exposed surfaces could be hidden reasonably easily with a few passes with a torch to smooth the surface of the wax before the slurry...

Investment Casting
 
cruiserbrett said:
Just thinking aloud:

Since you have an ability to print these is nylon, why not shift the focus a bit instead of printing in some sintered metal.

Print them in the correct type of wax, and send to a place that does lost wax casting? They’ll add a sprue/runner and cover in the slurry, bake the wax out and cast in stainless or whatever metal. Then it’s a matter of machine/polish/chrome.

I would imagine the printed texture on the exposed surfaces could be hidden reasonably easily with a few passes with a torch to smooth the surface of the wax before the slurry...

Investment Casting
Click to expand...

I like thinking out loud in here. Glad it is finally time.

Last time I looked at investment casting the minimum run anyone wanted to do was 1000 pieces. I figured I would sell 25, hide the other 975 from my wife for several decades until she found them and then she would shoot me.
 
scrapdaddy said:
Double Nickels,

I'm guessing you made that plastic one, looks great and thanks again for stepping up and helping us solve a biggie.
Click to expand...

You are correct, he sure did. Sorry Calvin, I will go back and edit my original post to make that clear!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom