SwitchPro Install Difficulty

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Aug 28, 2015
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Location
Tacoma, WA
Need to add some lighting to my truck and thinking I want to go with a SwitchPro, ditch lights, and a light bar. But how difficult is the SwitchPro install? I don’t know anything about wiring so wondering if this is something that I need to have someone else do.
 
I dont think you'll get a specific answer, just a bunch of anecdotes. You'll need to:

  • Open the fuse box and make a couple of taps if you want to use the SwitchPro triggers feature. It's well documented here
  • You'll need to be able to cut wires, crimp on terminals, and insulate them with heat shrink
  • Depending on your install you may have to remove covers, trim plastic etc
  • You'll have to run a wire through the firewall using the existing grommet
 
Need to add some lighting to my truck and thinking I want to go with a SwitchPro, ditch lights, and a light bar. But how difficult is the SwitchPro install? I don’t know anything about wiring so wondering if this is something that I need to have someone else do.
I will be more generic... it depends on how much research you want to do, it's not trivial but it's not difficult. Switchpro is the easiest way to power a handful of lights and has the best control out of the box. Also has the most aftermarket support for preformed brackets for mounting the underhood part and the in cabin part. So if were going to do DIY with little experience, the Switchpro is the way to do it.
 
You'll have to find a place for the switchpro control panel in the cab, and the switchpro circuit/brain box under the hood.
 
I won't say it's easy, but amoung the different strateigies to power electronics, it's going to be the easiest with more safegaurds like low voltage cutoff and solid state short protection. Basically anything that needs power, instead of routing to custom fuses, distribution points, and switches, gets routed to the flying leads of the SwitchPros.

A much tideir setup with potentially far less wiring runs. Especially when talking about powering many things. The brain/distribution box goes underhood where everything can easily route and tie to. A single small gauge wire goes between the brain to the switch in the interior. That last part is so huge as otherwise, there would be so many wires going through the firewall grommet for switches.
 
I think the advantage of the SwitchPro is that you only have to route (1) set of cables through the firewall and when you add more accessories everything is ready in the engine bay for easy connections.

the app also lets you dim and strobe your accessories
 
I think the advantage of the SwitchPro is that you only have to route (1) set of cables through the firewall and when you add more accessories everything is ready in the engine bay for easy connections.

the app also lets you dim and strobe your accessories
Can you program certain lights to come on with high beams via the app?
 
Can you program certain lights to come on with high beams via the app?

Definitely can if you can tap the right reference circuit. This thread may help.

 
resurrecting an old thread. I installed my switchpro finally. I tapped into the 5a-ALT-IG in the fuse panel (2021 200). I grounded switchpro module to the battery and ran the positive from the battery to the Switchpro module as per instructions. I wired up my spot lights and compressor to the flying leads. When I push the button on the keypad or on the app to turn an accessory on I get the LED indicator solid for a second then three flashes - accessory will not turn on. Apparently the flashes indicate a wiring issue but I have it wired exactly as per instructions.

I've tried adjusting the overcurrent for those buttons, but can't get either accessory to work. Both accessories were working fine using the same tap for ignition power before install of the switchpro. Any ideas?
 
resurrecting an old thread. I installed my switchpro finally. I tapped into the 5a-ALT-IG in the fuse panel (2021 200). I grounded switchpro module to the battery and ran the positive from the battery to the Switchpro module as per instructions. I wired up my spot lights and compressor to the flying leads. When I push the button on the keypad or on the app to turn an accessory on I get the LED indicator solid for a second then three flashes - accessory will not turn on. Apparently the flashes indicate a wiring issue but I have it wired exactly as per instructions.

I've tried adjusting the overcurrent for those buttons, but can't get either accessory to work. Both accessories were working fine using the same tap for ignition power before install of the switchpro. Any ideas?

Since you mentioned overcurrent adjustments I assume these are wired into 5-8 and already at the 35amp max?
 
resurrecting an old thread. I installed my switchpro finally. I tapped into the 5a-ALT-IG in the fuse panel (2021 200). I grounded switchpro module to the battery and ran the positive from the battery to the Switchpro module as per instructions. I wired up my spot lights and compressor to the flying leads. When I push the button on the keypad or on the app to turn an accessory on I get the LED indicator solid for a second then three flashes - accessory will not turn on. Apparently the flashes indicate a wiring issue but I have it wired exactly as per instructions.

I've tried adjusting the overcurrent for those buttons, but can't get either accessory to work. Both accessories were working fine using the same tap for ignition power before install of the switchpro. Any ideas?

What type of compressor are you wired to? An ARB type twin may be too much as an inductive load that draws huge initial current. May need an external relay? Have you tried with the car running as your battery may be low leading to premature tripping of the current protection?

The LED light should work however? 3 flashes I think mean overcurrent or as short.
 
Since you mentioned overcurrent adjustments I assume these are wired into 5-8 and already at the 35amp max?
What type of compressor are you wired to? An ARB type twin may be too much as an inductive load that draws huge initial current. May need an external relay? Have you tried with the car running as your battery may be low leading to premature tripping of the current protection?

The LED light should work however? 3 flashes I think mean overcurrent or as short.

From what I understand - since the dual compressor is getting power directly from the battery the switch is drawing very minimal amperage. So switches 1-4 should be adequate? My compressor worked before - the only change I made was to remove the ARB switch and that little switch section of the harness to use Switchpro's arb compressor jumper.

You can't believe everything you read on the internet... but I came across two different install articles - one with the ARB dual compressor and another with the ARB solis lights - both wired them up to the 20 amp 1-4 switches and apparently they work.

I guess the Solis lights maybe combined draw more than 20 amps? I'll have to try them on the 35 amp buttons maybe. I've explained all of this to Switchpro and so far they have not been able to help. I installed a $100 knock off amazon special on an older rig and it was super easy. I decided with the value of my 200 a better quality system would was justifiable - so far it's just been frustrating, LOL. I'm sure it'll be great if I can figure out how to get it working.
 
If you had accessories working beforehand, try connecting one accessory at a time to SwitchPro. In fact, I'd start with no accessories attached and trigger the various SwitchPro switches just to ensure you're starting with no issues on SwithPro with simple power and nothing attached. Then connect a simple light... validate. If it works, attach the next. You'll then isolate what the cause might be, otherwise we're all speculating.
 
From what I understand - since the dual compressor is getting power directly from the battery the switch is drawing very minimal amperage. So switches 1-4 should be adequate? My compressor worked before - the only change I made was to remove the ARB switch and that little switch section of the harness to use Switchpro's arb compressor jumper.

You can't believe everything you read on the internet... but I came across two different install articles - one with the ARB dual compressor and another with the ARB solis lights - both wired them up to the 20 amp 1-4 switches and apparently they work.

I guess the Solis lights maybe combined draw more than 20 amps? I'll have to try them on the 35 amp buttons maybe. I've explained all of this to Switchpro and so far they have not been able to help. I installed a $100 knock off amazon special on an older rig and it was super easy. I decided with the value of my 200 a better quality system would was justifiable - so far it's just been frustrating, LOL. I'm sure it'll be great if I can figure out how to get it working.

Gotcha. If I'm understanding correctly, the ARB harness already has a relay built in and the SwitchPros is just powering the trigger?

The interwebs describing powering ARBs directly to the SwitchPros may work for awhile. Overtime, or if they're trying higher duty cycles or pressure, will cause a failure.

I like @NikP s idea to troubleshoot.

What does the SwitchPro report for battery voltage?

Do the other switches on the SwitchPro work to turn on and off (with no load)?
 
If you had accessories working beforehand, try connecting one accessory at a time to SwitchPro. In fact, I'd start with no accessories attached and trigger the various SwitchPro switches just to ensure you're starting with no issues on SwithPro with simple power and nothing attached. Then connect a simple light... validate. If it works, attach the next. You'll then isolate what the cause might be, otherwise we're all speculating.

Good point. I did hook them up one at a time and even removed them and the switchpro seems to be working fine. With nothing attached the switch LED comes on solid as if the switch is working.

Did you remove the pins to get it through the firewall? Just spitballing here, but wondering if they got put back in the proper place or if one is not fully seated?
I did not remove the pins. I wrapped the small connector end with electrical tape and coated it liberally with dish soap and pulled it right through the tube in the grommet. I will check them though and make sure they are seated. My tip of the day - a while ago I bought a pipe drain snake and somehow broke it before I even had a chance to use it (ace quality). So, I took it apart because the stainless flexible cable works great for fishing wires through firewalls. Flexible, yet rigid enough it works pretty well. It honestly has been worth the cost of the drain snake, I use it all the time on the cruisers and around the house.

@TeCKis300 Switchpro is above 12v on the app.

I think the 9" Solis lights draw more than 20 amps and probably require the 35 amp button - that may be the problem on those. I'm going to check grounds and do some more testing tonight. I'll return and report my findings. Thanks!
 
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Welp, the spot light issue was my own error. 9" Lights draw too much for the 20 amp buttons. Moved to 35 amp switches and they work great.

Compressor wasn't working because Switchpro ARB Compressor Quick Connect was pinned wrong. Switchpro says some companies make and sell their own quick connect harness so it may not have come from them. The wire orientation was flipped and no wire in the location of the purple trigger wire on the ARB compressor harness side. I ended up omitting it, then cut off the ARB harness plug at the end and wired Switchpro lead to purple, black to chassis ground and left yellow and green for future lockers. Thanks a lot to @DesmoPilot for the guidance on that.

Funny that the "quick connect" harness caused me hours of frustration 😂.
 
Welp, the spot light issue was my own error. 9" Lights draw too much for the 20 amp buttons. Moved to 35 amp switches and they work great.

Compressor wasn't working because Switchpro ARB Compressor Quick Connect was pinned wrong. Switchpro says some companies make and sell their own quick connect harness so it may not have come from them. The wire orientation was flipped and no wire in the location of the purple trigger wire on the ARB compressor harness side. I ended up omitting it, then cut off the ARB harness plug at the end and wired Switchpro lead to purple, black to chassis ground and left yellow and green for future lockers. Thanks a lot to @DesmoPilot for the guidance on that.

Funny that the "quick connect" harness caused me hours of frustration 😂.

Good fix!

With that type of power draw, them LEDS must be as bright as the sun!!
 
@residualboulders can you post pics of your switch pros install under the hood? Wondering how you mounted the switch pros? I'm looking for something like a PowerTrays but they don't make them for the 200s/LCs
 
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