Swappin the 2F for an lt1 350 questions... (1 Viewer)

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Sudbury Ontario Canada
Ive searched around a bit but still have a bunch of questions.

My friend is parting out a 96ish police cruiser with an lt1 fuel injected 350 under the hood that hes willing to sell me for a good price. Decent k's and runs great.

Im "building" a 69 fj40 that has a 2F (73-74') swapped in with a 4 speed (h41 or h42?) and a one piece xfer. I have a spare tranny/transfer case as well as a spare 2f. The truck has fj60 axles under it, both aussie locked with 529 gears. Already have a champion 3 core alu rad that should cool the v8 from what I hear.




The main reasons for wanting to swap motors are better fuel economy compared to the 2f and the efi which would make it a better all round driver/off roader. I know I can fuel inject the 2f but after doing a bunch of reading it doesnt seem like the perfect solution especially when youd get a bunch more power out of the small block.

First question. How do you guys figure the rest of my drivetrain will hold up behind the chet motor? Im not a pedal to the metal kind of guy and would not be abusing the crap out of the truck on road or off.

Second question. I see there are at least two adapters available to accomplish this swap. Theres the AA kit (V8-H42 4 spd) for $350 and the Mark's kit for $1300. Whats the difference between the two? The Marks looks to include more parts......

Any advice is appreciated, just started thinking about this last night when the 350 was brought up.

D
 
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That's a great 350, IMO. An Orion would be the icing on the cake. A split case is a strong, inexpensive alternative to the one-piece case. You, at least, need transfer case savers. and a light foot. The 5.29 gears will help keep the transfer case in one piece.

orangefj45 can set you up with t-case savers for the top and front output cone.
 
I have the LT1 in my 40, but don't know that I can answer the direct questions you have. I went to 1 tons and used the 4L60E transmission to a dodge NP208 tcase. I can say, roadability is improved as well as in snow and sand. 1 major thing to think about- you can't use a stock FJ40 fuel tank. BTDT. you have to have a fuel trap of some sort for when the fuel level goes below 1/2 tank. It's best to have that inside the tank and use an in tank fuel pump. mine is outside and I use a racing style surge tank. I burn up $100 fuel pumps every couple years (external type).
IMHO an LT1 is not cheap to put in, I suppose like any 350 conversion. depends on how you will use the truck. FWIW, I love the engine. I do snow and sand almost as much as rocks, no highway though.:D
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

So a split case would hold up better than my one pieces eh? I have two of em so if it ends up breaking I can always swap em out and start looking for a split case. Ill look into the savers if I decede to proceed.

Bionic, I also have an fj60 with tons, a 350 ramjet, and nv 4500/atlas 2 combo. It gets fantastic mileage even with the 40" tires and I can dd it without issue. This fourty Im working on is more of a budget build. Most of the parts Ive used have been traded or scabbed off of beater trucks and Id like to keep it under the ten grand mark if I can (at about 5700 now lol). Id be keeping the 4 speed, one piece case, and 60 series axles for as long as theyd hold up then think about upgrading. If I can score this motor for cheap all I figure Id need is wiring, a clutch, and the adapter. Those would be the bigger ticket items, I know id need a bunch of other parts to finish the swap.

Price is the reason I asked what the difference between the Marks and the AA adapters is. While I wouldnt mind spending the 1300 on the Marks kit, 350 sounds a lot better if it accomplishes the same thing.

Keep the replies comin man, Im not nearly as edumacated when it comes to the h41 h42 motor swap code number words as a lot of you guys lol.

D
 
The first time you fire up the v8 you will become a pedal masher. It only gets worse when you do your first 4 wheel burnout. Do it, have fun. I miss my V8-60.
Avoid the Advanced Adapters motor mounts. Mine ripped apart pretty quick.
 
My drivetrain has held up well.
Ive got an 01, 5.3, 60 series axles, np203/ split case. Running 37's and lunch boxes f/r.
I wheel pretty hard trails, but I'm gentle on the throttle. That's just how I wheel, more than anything. Oh and a 4l60E trans.
I used the AA motor mounts and they've been great for me.
I actually really LOVE that motor and would do it again in a heartbeat.
 
Hi all,

My understanding is that the Mark's 4wd adapter is designed to swap a SBC engine into a 40/45 Series without moving the transmission & t-case from their stock, factory locations in the vehicle.

Meanwhile, the less expensive SBC adapter from Advance Adapters just connects the GM V-8 to the Toyota H41/42 transmission but also moves the drive train location in the vehicle.

Regards,

Alan


Thanks for the replies guys.

Price is the reason I asked what the difference between the Marks and the AA adapters is. While I wouldnt mind spending the 1300 on the Marks kit, 350 sounds a lot better if it accomplishes the same thing.


D
 
I've got a couple of mates running LT1's in 70 series cruisers, H55 with split transfer, 4.1 diffs and longfield supersets both driven pretty hard and the only weak point has been the aisin hubs blowing apart so they have been swapped over to longfield drive flanges now and the whole setup is reliable, I'm running a 6.0l LQ4 in my 70 series cruiser which will be putting out a bit more HP and torque than an LT1 and my drive trains held up ok, the thing I wouldn't expect to last long in your truck would be the old one piece transfer case they aren't as strong as the split cases, nice engines those LT1's :)
 
Hi all,

My understanding is that the Mark's 4wd adapter is designed to swap a SBC engine into a 40/45 Series without moving the transmission & t-case from their stock, factory locations in the vehicle.

Meanwhile, the less expensive SBC adapter from Advance Adapters just connects the GM V-8 to the Toyota H41/42 transmission but also moves the drive train location in the vehicle.

Regards,

Alan

Yes Ive come across that while searching. They say with the AA kit the tranny and xfer are shoved forward a bit (dont know how much specifically) and the shifter interferes with the front heater. Im guessing these adapters are thinner than the Marks and youd either have to shove the motor into the firewall a bit to keep the stock drive train location or you have to shove the whole shebang forward ending up with the shifter issue.

Kinda having a hard time justifying the Marks kit. My axles have been moved (5" forward in the front and 3" back in the rear) so I will need driveshafts anyways. My tranny hump is bare steel and can be easily rejiggered to accommodate the new drive train position. The shifter, I hear, can be creatively bent to clear the heater........

The gas tank thing Im not wrapping my mind around though. I have the early tank thats under the ps seat. My sixty uses its stock tank with a high pressure electric fuel pump mounted remotely along the frame rail. Could I not do the same thing if i swapped to the 350? If not please enlighten me.

To hopefully make things easier Id be taking the wiring harness with the motor and maybe even the fuel tank depending on what it looks like. I have a big empty spot under the cargo area so again, depending on the shape/configuration of the caprice tank, I may be able to use it to keep the costs down....

Keep the advice comin guys! Im getting way too excited about the whole swap thing for my own good.

D
 
I initially used the stock '77 fuel tank under the PS seat. at 1/2 tank when starting up a hill it would die out. get flat and it started right up. with a port fuel injected engine you can't suck up any air or it dies. here's a pic of a Toyota pickup tank when they went to fuel injection-
attachment.php


look in the caprice tank and it has something similar made of plastic. it allows fuel to come in when flat but can't run out when at an angle or cornering or on hills.

I couldn't fit the caprice tank in mine. IIRC it is wider than the frame of the 40 and would hang too low for me. check it for your application. it may be different.
 
Yes Ive come across that while searching. They say with the AA kit the tranny and xfer are shoved forward a bit (dont know how much specifically) and the shifter interferes with the front heater. Im guessing these adapters are thinner than the Marks and youd either have to shove the motor into the firewall a bit to keep the stock drive train location or you have to shove the whole shebang forward ending up with the shifter issue.

Kinda having a hard time justifying the Marks kit. My axles have been moved (5" forward in the front and 3" back in the rear) so I will need driveshafts anyways. My tranny hump is bare steel and can be easily rejiggered to accommodate the new drive train position. The shifter, I hear, can be creatively bent to clear the heater........

IMHO, for the cost of the Marks kit, spend an extra $200 and get the Ranger overdrive instead. That should get the transmission pretty close to the stock position, and you have a 5th gear OD which will help with fuel mileage.
 
I initially used the stock '77 fuel tank under the PS seat. at 1/2 tank when starting up a hill it would die out. get flat and it started right up. with a port fuel injected engine you can't suck up any air or it dies. here's a pic of a Toyota pickup tank when they went to fuel injection-


look in the caprice tank and it has something similar made of plastic. it allows fuel to come in when flat but can't run out when at an angle or cornering or on hills.

I couldn't fit the caprice tank in mine. IIRC it is wider than the frame of the 40 and would hang too low for me. check it for your application. it may be different.

Ok Im gettin the picture now, thanks man.

IMHO, for the cost of the Marks kit, spend an extra $200 and get the Ranger overdrive instead. That should get the transmission pretty close to the stock position, and you have a 5th gear OD which will help with fuel mileage.

Now thats a wicked idea. 350 to ranger to 4 spd to one piece tcase. T case can be replaced with a split case or orion at a later date... Sweet, thanks. Gonna look around the classifieds for the overdrive.

D
 
Having owned, built, and raced an LT1 Camaro over the course of many years (when I was younger) I would never go with another LT1. It's old technology with a piss poor overall design in my opinion. Go with a proven newer generation Lsx, Vortec, etc if you are going through with the hassle and expense of an engine swap.
 
Having owned, built, and raced an LT1 Camaro over the course of many years (when I was younger) I would never go with another LT1. It's old technology with a piss poor overall design in my opinion. Go with a proven newer generation Lsx, Vortec, etc if you are going through with the hassle and expense of an engine swap.

Meh regardless, Itll be an improvement over the 2f any way you look at it. Also, my buddy has one sitting in a parts caprice and hes giving it to me for a very reasonable price including all the wiring.

Looking for swap threads now just to see whats what.

D
 
Thanks man, i just happen to know a dude who has a few iroks if that's an f body lol.

I'm kinda partial to drivin standards. My old eighty series was a pain offroad due to nonexistant engine braking and i hate my power wagon pos dd auto. Not bad for dding but I'm used to being able to navigate steep downhills without touchin the brakes. I figure the 350 would give me the driveability, the ranger the overdrive and therefore highwayability, and i could keep the four speed and case i have since i have spares and can upgrade down the line. Hopefully the 5:29's would give me some low gear, i can always start savin for an orion down the line if i want even lower gears.

D
 
I run a GM 383 crate engine with the Turbo 400, thru FJ 40 axles, that have been upgraded, on 37x12.50x15 SSR super swampers. I've seen my friends, with their sticks break things that I haven't, I believe because they were running sticks. Kind of the theory of go or blow, the clutch is either in or out. Most people don't know how to feather a clutch. The auto is more forgiving if you don't have an educated foot. Still running thru the stock transfer case. Done the Hammers, Dusy, Rubicon, moab, and love to hammer her in the sand. I have an 96 LT1 Camaro that's smog legal and runs high 10's in the quarter mile. Still can get 25 mpg at 70mph on the freeway. I've put many a LS on the trailer. Only concern would be water crossings that would be deep enough to come half way up the engine, due to where the distributor is on the front of the motor. Kevin
 
....Only concern would be water crossings that would be deep enough to come half way up the engine, due to where the distributor is on the front of the motor. Kevin

I've never heard of anyone that likes that stupid Optispark. I made sure to get the later one that is at least vented.
 
I've never heard of anyone that likes that stupid Optispark. I made sure to get the later one that is at least vented.

It's a huge design flaw and the reason why I won't go back to the LT1. Not only is the actual distributor poorly designed, it's stuck behind the water pump so you can't just do a quick swap when you have a problem. Has anyone come out with a quality replacement yet? I have been out of the LT1 game for a good decade and at the time there were no options.
 
Thanks man, i just happen to know a dude who has a few iroks if that's an f body lol.

I'm kinda partial to drivin standards. My old eighty series was a pain offroad due to nonexistant engine braking and i hate my power wagon pos dd auto. Not bad for dding but I'm used to being able to navigate steep downhills without touchin the brakes. I figure the 350 would give me the driveability, the ranger the overdrive and therefore highwayability, and i could keep the four speed and case i have since i have spares and can upgrade down the line. Hopefully the 5:29's would give me some low gear, i can always start savin for an orion down the line if i want even lower gears.

D

TH400 and TH350 (4L80e and 700R4/4L60e/4L65e) have engine braking in 1st. I do downhills all the time without brakes. It's only in 2nd and 3rd that they freewheel when coasting.

Optispark blows. Overall its better than a regular Gen II 350, but it sucks compared to a later LS motor.
 

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