Hey folks… the first thing I noticed when I originally test drove my HZJ73 was how cramped my 6’4” frame was with the seat all the way back. Being a manual didn’t help as you often have two feet on the pedals and don’t get to stretch out. I asked around the local LC shop about people having modified theirs but didn’t get any definitive info so I decided to give it a shot together with a relative of mine. Before starting I made sure to grease and lubricate every possible pivot point on the suspension seat because some squeaks had cropped up, including the inside of the rails. The black paint had chipped or rusted in some spots so a little rust-oleum finish was in order. The worst rust was the surface of the springs, which I thought would look way better with black semi-gloss anyway. It will all be more exposed after the mod. Make sure not to get any paint on the damper shaft. (^Passenger seat, slightly different than driver’s) The easiest way I could find to move the seat backward was to add a longer base onto the sliding rails for the seat to bolt into. Those of you adept at welding or metal purists might frown on the solution of wood, but this is 1 full inch of Brazilian walnut which is exceptionally strong, possibly stronger than the thin metal in the existing rails. It also took a matter of minutes to cut, sand, drill and route the wood. I chose 2.5” additional rearward movement just for long trips. Add to that 1” of height for the now elderly and sagging damper and things are looking up. The new inside rail is 2” wide, and the outside rail I think was 2.5 or 3”. This is to add extra strength since one of the levers is attached to the metal rails and requires routing a couple millimeters for the wood to sit flush. Each new rail will need 4 holes for the M8 bolts, two for bolting to the metal rail, and two for the new position the seat will be bolted to. Keep in mind if your rails are flush to the originals, the forward (toward steering wheel) hole for the seat on each side will need to be in-set so the bolt head doesn’t stick out. I recommend space a washer in there too if using wood. Wallow out one of the holes for the seat side because inevitably your measurement is just slightly off. I used all new hardware for the bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts as they all need new length. Measure before buying bolts because the chair doesn't allow an infinite amount of thread to stick our beyond the weld nuts. I decided to add some washers in between the the seat and the wood to add a little more ride height, so that added length to the bolts as well. I offset the front to bring the seat up under my knees more, which all my tall comrades will understand. Bolting everything back together is a bit of a farce, but everything should line up. It’s easier to attach it all back to the base without the small spring connected (the one that helps the seat slide forward) then use some pliers to connect it back after. Installed @ Full Extension: I ended up liking the increased ride height and tilt of the seat base so much that I added washers to the passenger side too. Note: I’ve noticed that the seat belt does not give slack as easily with the seat higher as it did in the original position. This means on big bumps you feel the belt tighten against your waist more than before. Still troubleshooting this but I know there is a way to fix. Let me know if anyone has any clues.