Suspension replacement advice New FJ60

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Beehanger said:
Could I DIY that or drop it off at a shop within a week of when I get it into Idaho? I am parking it outside... :/
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You can't DIY that in Idaho in winter outside. A shop could do it if you trust them to not do a crappy job. This is assuming that the gutters are cracked and leaking but we don't have enough photos. I would suspect so since the roof rack mounts will wreck the old caulking.
 
Beehanger said:
should I have him try to do something to it?
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Shackle reversal wouldn't be the way I would do it, but its your truck. I am too much of a purist for that sort of thing myself and tend to not go against what the Toyota engineers did originally as much as possible. Not saying its wrong necessarily, just not something I would have done to mine. I have a full OME 2.5 kit on mine which is enough of a change to the original engineering for me, but its worked out great:

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Beehanger said:
What if I’m not “good enough” yet to know how to put a lift on tho or diagnose? This guy knows the car well but I get your point. Would just be nice to have it over with and not have to do it outside in the winter. but maybe I could do it with a buddy one day. Speaking of winter, should I be worried about cold starting? I know Carberated engines have done well in the cold mountains before, but any pointers on what to anticipate? (Parking outside as of now)
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Good timing

 
There is a benefit to the spring reversal in the way the axle moves over bumps. The down side is how it compresses the front driveshaft. There is a reason Toyota set it up they way they did but there are reasons to reverse it.
Your springs don't look bad in the pictures, maybe you just need some new shocks?
 
MarkBC said:
You can't DIY that in Idaho in winter outside. A shop could do it if you trust them to not do a crappy job. This is assuming that the gutters are cracked and leaking but we don't have enough photos. I would suspect so since the roof rack mounts will wreck the old caulking.
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Can send you pics, it looked pretty clean just paint chipping. Was going to caulk rain gutters myself
 
Update: stuck at the shop! Suspension felt good but the engine kept revving up on its own in idle. Not sure if it’s the accelerator cable or maybe the carberator acting up? It just by itself keeps revving higher and higher until we shut it off, started during the test drive but got to the point where I couldn’t leave last night. Guys at the shop are looking at it, even when we pull the accelerator up with our foot it doesn’t fix it or at least only for a split second if even that. Carb? Any advice would be great I need to get this thing on the road today!
 
Beehanger said:
Fixed, vacuum hose
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feels nice when it's a simple and cheap fix right?!?

my truck has a shackle-reversal from the PO. I had a 61 before this one with standard leaf spring orientation. The reversal is MUCH nicer on the road, especially over bumpy conditions and when turning and the body leans. Same era Toyota Hilux P/U and Surf (4runners) came shackle reversed from the factory, so Toyota did use it on their products, just not the LC. I like the improved road-ability.
 
kevin in okinawa said:
feels nice when it's a simple and cheap fix right?!?

my truck has a shackle-reversal from the PO. I had a 61 before this one with standard leaf spring orientation. The reversal is MUCH nicer on the road, especially over bumpy conditions and when turning and the body leans. Same era Toyota Hilux P/U and Surf (4runners) came shackle reversed from the factory, so Toyota did use it on their products, just not the LC. I like the improved road-ability.
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Update:
Stuck in Vegas, didn’t have a breakdown luckily but the engine is behaving oddly, pinging some and running really rich. I tried higher octane fuel and switching Places of the little vacuum lines by distributor cap To no avail. It’s not revving anymore that issues fixed but I posted audio files in a Dropbox: 6 videos - https://www.dropbox.com/sc/hgqwlqv7husg4ob/AABqI_dX8Z1x_JGa0qMhwLK_a

Gotta be the fuel Leaking or timing is off I’m hoping, any recommendations on Sunday mechanics here? Other thread: Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/advice-on-whether-i-should-buy-a-land-cruiser.1227794/page-7#post-13638409
 
After watching the videos,

I'd say you need to lower your idle set screw a bit. It's located at the rear of the carb. Normal idle is 650 rpms. Sounds like your around 1000 rpms. Or were you intentionally pulling out the choke a bit?

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I didn't hear any pinging. I did hear more valves noise at the higher rpms on the road test. this maybe normal or you may want to adjust the valves...either way you can probably drive home on that if that were all it was. Valve noise is like a sewing machine type noise. Valves reside inside the cylinder head on top of the motor and let air and exhaust in and out and need to be timed right.

I thought I heard a lower noise at idle in the second to last video. Like a thud that keeps with the rpms. Might be the smog pump.

Also you can run the engine cold w/out the smog pump/fan belt for a few minutes (just don't let the engine get warm) just to see if the noise goes away...process of elimination, While the belt is off turn the pulley by hand to see if you can hear anything clunking around in there or feel any thing cruddy.

it's common for a smog pump to make noise if a vane inside is broken and something you would want to correct before it seizes.

The rich carb issue isn't something your going to figure out just by looking or listening. You may have to pull the carb apart and clean it

When I spoke with you over the phone you said the 4th cylinder was 175psi compression. You may want to get some input from the forum about this. Hopefully it was a bad reading but normal psi for this engine is 149 and lower limit is 114 psi with 14 psi difference between cylinders acceptable. Maybe get the mechanic to check this again.

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I wouldn't get back on the road until you get a working temp gauge and oil pressure gauge. the green wire that goes to the temp sender is just forward of the red heater hose that runs behind your air cleaner. Follow the red hose to where it is band clamped to a vertical pipe and about an inch in front of that is the temp sender ...looks like a round plug on a hexagonal bolt head . The green wire has a spade terminal that shove onto it. Just make sure you have a good connection here. It is the most likely reason your gauge is out.
 
I found that filling the coolant while the vehicle is nose up on an incline with motor running helps to purge the air. Heater doesn't work well until the system is purged. If you overheat, your engine troubles only get worse.
 
Another thought about fuel running out the exhaust. Catch it with a container and verify that it is not water. check the spark plugs and smell them for gas and see if one or more smells like gas. You said the plugs were just replaced last week so they should not be fouled to the point where they don't fire (unless something is wrong causing them to foul) But a bad plug wire will cause a plug to NOT FIRE...thus excess fuel. These can be checked by visually looking for spark to jump at the plug when held close to a ground point on the motor. Also can be checked by removing the dizzy cap and ohm testing from the contacts inside the cover to the end of the plug wire that connects to the spark plug. In this senario I could see a possibility of raw gas not being burned and running out the exhaust.

Also check the firing order of the spark plugs. 1-5-3-6-2-4 These numbers should be on the plastic cover of your dizzy and correspond to the cylinder with #1 cylinder/plug being closest to the front of the vehicle.

Make sure the sight glass on the front of the carb shows 1/2 full with gas. Overfilled could be a problem.
 
Since his foot was down to floor for WOT, could there be holes in his secondary vacuum actuator causing lose of power in the carb or is that only under load like going up hills?
 
Beehanger said:
Btw what should I “feel for” that’s good and bad when I’m driving, I don’t have tons of experience with feeling out suspension besides does it feel top heavy or too bumpy etc.
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MoaByte said:
I second that. Cruiser Outfitters in SLC Utah will set you up. It isn't cheap but its quality will pay you back every time you drive it.
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Hey guys, I'm new here, and just picked up a 60 today actually. Pretty stoked to start the resto project and would appreciate any feedback you can provide. Looking to upgrade from stock suspension - I've heard great things about OME, and installed rough country on my old bronco, but I ran across the Hell 4 Stout setup while tooling around on cool cruiser's site. Does anyone have any experience with the HFS setup? IF not, here's a link for reference. Thanks!

Lift Kit - FJ60/62 - HFS Lift Kit

Lift Kit - FJ60/62 - HFS Lift Kit - "HFS Lift" ~ The Very Best! "HFS" Best Spring Design "HFS" Best Raw Materials "HFS" Best Manufacturing Methods Lift Fits FJ60 & FJ62 8/'80 to 1990 Approximately 3" of Spring Lift Lift height may vary depending on set-up. HFS Superior Spring Design Features...
www.coolcruisers.com www.coolcruisers.com
 
SakeBom said:
Hey guys, I'm new here, and just picked up a 60 today actually. Pretty stoked to start the resto project and would appreciate any feedback you can provide. Looking to upgrade from stock suspension - I've heard great things about OME, and installed rough country on my old bronco, but I ran across the Hell 4 Stout setup while tooling around on cool cruiser's site. Does anyone have any experience with the HFS setup? IF not, here's a link for reference. Thanks!

Lift Kit - FJ60/62 - HFS Lift Kit

Lift Kit - FJ60/62 - HFS Lift Kit - "HFS Lift" ~ The Very Best! "HFS" Best Spring Design "HFS" Best Raw Materials "HFS" Best Manufacturing Methods Lift Fits FJ60 & FJ62 8/'80 to 1990 Approximately 3" of Spring Lift Lift height may vary depending on set-up. HFS Superior Spring Design Features...
www.coolcruisers.com www.coolcruisers.com
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"out of stock"

i was told i have HFS on my rig....im not sure as PO installed. if I do...seems aight.
 
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