Hello Fellas,
I’m reaching out for some tips as this weekend I plan to install an OME suspension and SPC UCAs, and I’d really like it to go smoothly. I’m able to use a shop lift, so it would be advantageous to be prepared going in and knock it out efficiently. In the past, I’ve installed OME and then Icon suspension on my 2006 4runner, but in both instances I had the help of a couple of friends and the 4runner was a simpler animal.
So far for research, I’ve read many helpful threads on this site and I’ve watched a couple of helpful YouTube videos.
I searched, but I could find a comprehensive list. So perhaps you could me out. I would appreciate it greatly, if you could review my process or otherwise throw any tips my direction.
Phase 1 – Bringing appropriate Tools (being updated with tips from the crew)
1. Shop lift (borrowed for time necessary, less is better )
2. Floor jack
3. Metric ratchets and sockets (up to 24mm?) ¼, 3/8, Long flex head ½
4. Flex head Ratcheting box end wrench for rear shock, 22MM for OME (what sizes is stock?)
5. metal mallet
6. ½ torque wrench up to 221 ft lbs
7. Brass punch
8. Cable ties, nylon strap
9. Pry bar
10. Anti-seize
11. Blue lock tight
12. Vise grips
13. Pipe Wrench
14. 1/2 Cordless Impact
15. Paint marker to mark alignment cams and write down torque specs
16. (2) ratchet straps for wrestling panhard bar if rear springs don’t come out
17. Any other tools that were helpful to you, or that you would recommend?
Phase 2 – Prework
14. KDSS valves, make sure not seized
a. PB Blaster (or Kriol?) for a few days
b. Wire brush and tap with a metal hammer
c. Cross fingers
d. 5mm socket, ¼ --> 3/8 adapter, 3/8 extension, ratchet
e. Break free and keep less than 3 full turn
15. Measure height at all 4 corners for reference
16. Setup SPC Upper Control Arms
a. Set UCAs to one degree positive caster.Be sure to set ball joints outwards, almost flush with the upper control arm to gain the clearance needed to clear larger tires. This will help with the alignment.
The UCAs only use the new washers on the outside, and you discard the factory washers...better yet read the manual.
Phase 3 – the Front suspension
17. Loosen KDSS valves 3 turns (On ground or once lifted?)
18. Lift vehicle, remove wheels (mark which wheel’s spot)
19. Disconnect Steering arm, tie up
19.5 disconnect abs wire from uca and spindle
20. Loosen Upper Ball joint, leave nut on, break by striking (which type of hammer?)
21. Remove sway bar connection to LCA
22. Remove (4) top nuts holding in stock coil over, take out. Install OME coil over (which I already have assembled), install top retaining nuts (loose), shock bottom bolt loose)
a. Will I need to loosen to LCA?
i. If so, loosen rear nut of rear bolt mount and front bolt of front mount (do I have that combination right?)
<<make sure not to over extent the CV or poke/tear to CV boot, vulnerable at this time.>>
23. Remove Long Bolt and nut holding in stock UCA
24. Grease bushings and install SPC UCA (reverse process of removal, keep loose
25. Fully tighten top of strut
26. Attach ball joint to spindle (new cotter pin)
27. Attach steering
28. Install sway bar linkage, loosen bolts holding sway bar to frame, attach passenger side first, then driver side, lower lift and use floor jack to lift driver side LCA to align sway bar bolt
29. All bolts/nuts snugged, many with lock tight, not torqued
Phase 4 – The rear suspension
30. Place jack under rear pumpkin, at droop
30.5 disconnect rear abs wire from axle and watch for stress when lowering
31. Disconnect sway bar mounts at the axle (do I need to remove handbrake mount?)
32. Lower rear axle as much as to not stretch brake lines
33. Remove springs and install new ones, I gather the passenger side is tougher (do I need to jack up the opposing side to install spring?)
34. Install rear shocks, (what size flex head ratching wrench is needed?, is there another I can use for the top of the shock to keep it from turning?)
35. All bolts/nuts snugged, many with lock tight, not torqued
Phase 5 – finishing up
36. Reinstall wheels
37. Lower from lift
38. Torque everything per the below picture of torque specs (are these correct torque specs?)
39. Measure height at 4 corners
40. Get an alignment (any recommended instructions for the aligner?)
Am I on the right track with the below, or am I am in for a world of pain and regret?! Any thoughts welcomed. I will come back after and update this thread for future users.
Thank you all for the time!
** edited to include input as of 4/2/19***
I’m reaching out for some tips as this weekend I plan to install an OME suspension and SPC UCAs, and I’d really like it to go smoothly. I’m able to use a shop lift, so it would be advantageous to be prepared going in and knock it out efficiently. In the past, I’ve installed OME and then Icon suspension on my 2006 4runner, but in both instances I had the help of a couple of friends and the 4runner was a simpler animal.
So far for research, I’ve read many helpful threads on this site and I’ve watched a couple of helpful YouTube videos.
I searched, but I could find a comprehensive list. So perhaps you could me out. I would appreciate it greatly, if you could review my process or otherwise throw any tips my direction.
Phase 1 – Bringing appropriate Tools (being updated with tips from the crew)
1. Shop lift (borrowed for time necessary, less is better )
2. Floor jack
3. Metric ratchets and sockets (up to 24mm?) ¼, 3/8, Long flex head ½
4. Flex head Ratcheting box end wrench for rear shock, 22MM for OME (what sizes is stock?)
5. metal mallet
6. ½ torque wrench up to 221 ft lbs
7. Brass punch
8. Cable ties, nylon strap
9. Pry bar
10. Anti-seize
11. Blue lock tight
12. Vise grips
13. Pipe Wrench
14. 1/2 Cordless Impact
15. Paint marker to mark alignment cams and write down torque specs
16. (2) ratchet straps for wrestling panhard bar if rear springs don’t come out
17. Any other tools that were helpful to you, or that you would recommend?
Phase 2 – Prework
14. KDSS valves, make sure not seized
a. PB Blaster (or Kriol?) for a few days
b. Wire brush and tap with a metal hammer
c. Cross fingers
d. 5mm socket, ¼ --> 3/8 adapter, 3/8 extension, ratchet
e. Break free and keep less than 3 full turn
15. Measure height at all 4 corners for reference
16. Setup SPC Upper Control Arms
a. Set UCAs to one degree positive caster.Be sure to set ball joints outwards, almost flush with the upper control arm to gain the clearance needed to clear larger tires. This will help with the alignment.
The UCAs only use the new washers on the outside, and you discard the factory washers...better yet read the manual.
Phase 3 – the Front suspension
17. Loosen KDSS valves 3 turns (On ground or once lifted?)
18. Lift vehicle, remove wheels (mark which wheel’s spot)
19. Disconnect Steering arm, tie up
19.5 disconnect abs wire from uca and spindle
20. Loosen Upper Ball joint, leave nut on, break by striking (which type of hammer?)
21. Remove sway bar connection to LCA
22. Remove (4) top nuts holding in stock coil over, take out. Install OME coil over (which I already have assembled), install top retaining nuts (loose), shock bottom bolt loose)
a. Will I need to loosen to LCA?
i. If so, loosen rear nut of rear bolt mount and front bolt of front mount (do I have that combination right?)
<<make sure not to over extent the CV or poke/tear to CV boot, vulnerable at this time.>>
23. Remove Long Bolt and nut holding in stock UCA
24. Grease bushings and install SPC UCA (reverse process of removal, keep loose
25. Fully tighten top of strut
26. Attach ball joint to spindle (new cotter pin)
27. Attach steering
28. Install sway bar linkage, loosen bolts holding sway bar to frame, attach passenger side first, then driver side, lower lift and use floor jack to lift driver side LCA to align sway bar bolt
29. All bolts/nuts snugged, many with lock tight, not torqued
Phase 4 – The rear suspension
30. Place jack under rear pumpkin, at droop
30.5 disconnect rear abs wire from axle and watch for stress when lowering
31. Disconnect sway bar mounts at the axle (do I need to remove handbrake mount?)
32. Lower rear axle as much as to not stretch brake lines
33. Remove springs and install new ones, I gather the passenger side is tougher (do I need to jack up the opposing side to install spring?)
34. Install rear shocks, (what size flex head ratching wrench is needed?, is there another I can use for the top of the shock to keep it from turning?)
35. All bolts/nuts snugged, many with lock tight, not torqued
Phase 5 – finishing up
36. Reinstall wheels
37. Lower from lift
38. Torque everything per the below picture of torque specs (are these correct torque specs?)
39. Measure height at 4 corners
40. Get an alignment (any recommended instructions for the aligner?)
Am I on the right track with the below, or am I am in for a world of pain and regret?! Any thoughts welcomed. I will come back after and update this thread for future users.
Thank you all for the time!
** edited to include input as of 4/2/19***
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