Supercharger vs Turbo vs Engine Swap? (3 Viewers)

[Zjohnsonua]

Boosting a 1FZ offers a lot of bang for the respective buck. The torque comes up quicker and reaches higher compared to a 2UZ while still being able to spin up and provide increased power. If I had been able to find a sub 150k OBDII 1FZ I would have gone that route with my 60's swap rather than the 2UZ, but I couldn't, so I didn't. Unless an owner is looking to break the 300hp mark, I can't see a reason to go the engine swap route - a healthy 1FZ-FE long block is just too good an engine to move away from. Needs/wants for over 300hp and the whole game changes.

Between timing changes and cooling package size changes, I'd expect this turbo 1FZ heating nuisance on long grades could be avoided as well. As more of these kits hit the market I figure more of these types of solutions will start to hit the boards as well.

 

[Gymboi]

I'm currently in the same boat rn with my 97. She's got a little over 300k miles rn. The transmission still shifts really smoothly and the engine keeps good oil pressure. I was considering having a shop do a rebuild and then turbo. Or do an ls swap. It'd be 10-12k for a rebuild, another 6k for the turbo, then another 2k for a new exhaust. Which is within territory for cost of an LS Swap. My buddy has a family shop and has built motors before, so we'd be able to do take her apart and rebuild it. But I'm hesitant with it being done right. I'm also on the fence between the 2 because I could technically put a rebuilt engine with a turbo in front of the 300k mile transmission and be fine, but I'm just thinking down the road for future use. Anybody got some advice for a 21yr old who would rather make payments to fund an engine swap/rebuild than get a new car all together?

 

[White Stripe]

I'm currently in the same boat rn with my 97. She's got a little over 300k miles rn. The transmission still shifts really smoothly and the engine keeps good oil pressure. I was considering having a shop do a rebuild and then turbo. Or do an ls swap. It'd be 10-12k for a rebuild, another 6k for the turbo, then another 2k for a new exhaust. Which is within territory for cost of an LS Swap. My buddy has a family shop and has built motors before, so we'd be able to do take her apart and rebuild it. But I'm hesitant with it being done right. I'm also on the fence between the 2 because I could technically put a rebuilt engine with a turbo in front of the 300k mile transmission and be fine, but I'm just thinking down the road for future use. Anybody got some advice for a 21yr old who would rather make payments to fund an engine swap/rebuild than get a new car all together?

What is wrong with your current engine? 300k is getting up there but not crazy for a Toyota.

 

[SNLC]

I don’t see anyone talking about EGT’s in this thread or for that matter others on turboed 1FZs.

So who is running an EGT gauge? Who is running an intercooler?

Charging anything generates heat. Heat kills engines in particular ones with cast iron blocks and aluminum heads. Heat also melts pistons. In the diesel world, you cranking 1200*f and you are getting into the danger zone. 1600* for any sustained amount of time and you are melting pistons.

I know somebody with a S/C on his 1FZ. He was monitoring EGTs and said 1600* easy, especially on hard and or long pulls. He is running an A-W intercooler as well. He even did a meth injection setup to try an lower EGTs.

My experience with S/C petrol engines lies with the 5vz and on that I ran 12-16psi, it generated a lot of heat. Enough to fry the TPS. I admit I don’t have a lot of experience turboing the 1FZ but I apply the same principles to boosting other engines. I have a lot of experience with the Cruiser diesels though and on those, I tune it by the EGTs.

Good ole Chevy V8 has none of these issues if installed correctly. I get it though and am all for building up the Toyota engine for more power. Bolt on is also a great option. I just think you need to do it right vs slapping some boost on it. Otherwise longevity of the power gain will end in failure.

Cheers

 

[Gymboi]

What is wrong with your current engine? 300k is getting up there but not crazy for a Toyota.

Nothing, just have front and rear main seal leaks. To which I add a quart of oil every 300-500 miles. And have been for the past 30k miles of ownership. I'm just tryna think ahead. And how long the tranny would hold up if I did rebuild and then turbo. Whichever route I go, I'll have to get a new exhaust, as it's kinda hacked together. Luckily I've got the shops of OTRAMM and IPOR within 2hrs from me

 

[6806goats]

After watching Ryan's OTRAMM videos and having a bad head gasket (haven't started testing or a tear down) on my 97, I'm now back to debating on the LS swap vs rebuilding. My biggest plus idea is going with the 6L90 trans swap when I do the LS. Haven't dug too hard finding info about putting the 6L90 behind the 1FZ but someone has probably done it. I see it being done with the Cummins 2.8 swap so it should be doable. Turbo on top of me rebuilding the 1FZ vs the LS swap has me leaning to the LS. Maybe I better chill and just get back to replacing the head gasket and sealing the engine. If i can get back to work overseas and make some coin I'd have money to work with. Unemployment about to die, thought I'd be back to work by now.

 

[Indestructible 47]

The turbo is the absolute best bang for buck. The 1FZ is built like a tank, it can easily handle boost. Where some go wrong is they skip an intercooler or cheap out on one. It's a critical step to a reliable turbo set-up in any application, petrol or diesel.

Also I might as well go ahead and say it, alot of us Aussies would turbo the 1fz before we LS swapped. Totally nothing cool about an LS, they sound like garbage for a v8, however a turbo 1fz has a ton of cool factor.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Having had an LS swap (GU patrol) and a turbo FZJ80, my $0.02 worth:
1) LS is easy to get parts for and a lot of aftermarket support.
2) Turbo 1FZ is better on fuel, especially on the highway. Both trucks on 35s with stock gearing and manual trans.
3) admittedly the cam in the LS was probably too aggro for a heavy 4x4, but the FZ power delivery is better suited for a heavy truck than the LS. Auto transmission may change this.

No regrets about loosing the LS'd truck but I do miss the turbo FZ.

One thing to note, it is absolutely essential to run an AFR gauge with a turbo engine, if keeping an eye on gauges isn't your thing then turbo probably isn't for you.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Over the course of the last 12 years or so, I've been lucky to experience the 80 drive line in just about every form; Stock, Turbo 1FZ, Cummins 4BT (profitts) and the current setup is an 6.2 LS. (well, except 1HDFTE )

For me, everything pales in comparison to the LS power plant. That said, if you plan on paying someone to do the work, it'll be one of the most expensive options out there.

You could always source a good used 1FZ and just swap it out. Take the savings and invest it or get a fun DD and keep the 80 for wheeling, etc. If i could go back to 21 and had done that, I'd be way better off than I am now. Hate to be the voice of reason here, but anything other than stock becomes a slippery slope.

 

[Gymboi]

So that would leave me to my next question. What had me leaning towards the ls swap, was that my a343f has 300k miles on it. Still running amazing. But I'd question the longevity of it if I put a transgo kit in it if I go the rebuild and turbo route

 

[White Stripe]

Nothing, just have front and rear main seal leaks. To which I add a quart of oil every 300-500 miles. And have been for the past 30k miles of ownership. I'm just tryna think ahead. And how long the tranny would hold up if I did rebuild and then turbo. Whichever route I go, I'll have to get a new exhaust, as it's kinda hacked together. Luckily I've got the shops of OTRAMM and IPOR within 2hrs from me

That's a lot of pros and cons to weigh yourself honestly. I would include the factor of how long you plan on keeping it. If your planning on keeping it a very long time then I would go LS. Most likely your bottom end is fine on your 1fz. You could probably pull the motor, rebuild the head along with a port and polish, Install all new seals hoses and gaskets, and have a very nice running 1fz.

 

[Gymboi]

That's a lot of pros and cons to weigh yourself honestly. I would include the factor of how long you plan on keeping it. If your planning on keeping it a very long time then I would go LS. Most likely your bottom end is fine on your 1fz. You could probably pull the motor, rebuild the head along with a port and polish, Install all new seals hoses and gaskets, and have a very nice running 1fz.

Yeah I plan on keeping this thing for a very long time. I'd be leaning more towards a head rebuild and turbo if I could get a new tranny, so I wouldn't have to worry about it any time soon. That's why the ls is a bit more appealing, as I'd be getting a like new, or new engine and transmission. Obviously more expensive, but I'd rather make payments on that than a brand new car

 

[subzali]

I would absolutely not borrow money to do something like this. Save up cash to do it, but better yet save up cash to have an emergency fund and to buy a house first (appreciating asset). The vehicle (depreciating asset) will be fine waiting until you have cash in hand. You will want this anyway if you are serious about owning/maintaining an older vehicle, unexpected expenses will come up.

Buy a personal finance book like Dave Ramsey’s Financial Peace, it will change your life.

 

[Heckraiser]

I'm currently in the same boat rn with my 97. She's got a little over 300k miles rn. The transmission still shifts really smoothly and the engine keeps good oil pressure. I was considering having a shop do a rebuild and then turbo. Or do an ls swap. It'd be 10-12k for a rebuild, another 6k for the turbo, then another 2k for a new exhaust. Which is within territory for cost of an LS Swap. My buddy has a family shop and has built motors before, so we'd be able to do take her apart and rebuild it. But I'm hesitant with it being done right. I'm also on the fence between the 2 because I could technically put a rebuilt engine with a turbo in front of the 300k mile transmission and be fine, but I'm just thinking down the road for future use. Anybody got some advice for a 21yr old who would rather make payments to fund an engine swap/rebuild than get a new car all together?

You're 21. There are more important things in life than cool cars. If you can take the money you would put into your truck and put it into legitimate investments (cars, even collector cars do absofreakinglutely NOT fall into this category), you will have a better quality of life, more money and yes, more cool truck parts later in life than you could ever dream of affording now. My rig when I was your age was a rusted out $1500 hilux. Save for a house or condo.

:edit: haha, didn't even read @subzali response above. Great minds think alike.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

So that would leave me to my next question. What had me leaning towards the ls swap, was that my a343f has 300k miles on it. Still running amazing. But I'd question the longevity of it if I put a transgo kit in it if I go the rebuild and turbo route

I don't know what the market on them is like right now, but I sold a used a343f a few years back for like $200. Questioning the longevity of an A343f should not be the reason to consider an LS swap. Just my opinion.

Echoing the earlier points, and not to turn this into a finance class, but I foolishly spent $20k on my cummins swap back when I was in college (15 years ago). If I put that money in conservative mutual fund, it'd be worth $75k or more today. As is alwasy the case, if i had only known then, what i know now.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

So that would leave me to my next question. What had me leaning towards the ls swap, was that my a343f has 300k miles on it. Still running amazing. But I'd question the longevity of it if I put a transgo kit in it if I go the rebuild and turbo route

The A340 and A343 are some of the most durable transmissions currently on the road irrespective of manufacturer. If your transmission isn't showing any signs of weakness and you're maintaining it appropriately then drop that worry.

If you're down on power, gears are way cheaper and they'll get your leverage back.

Save your money. Buy a bunch of old cruiser parts in a few years when this bubble has burst.

 

[Gymboi]

I appreciate all of y'all's inputs, as I am very inexperienced with investments and just unsure what route I want to go with this vehicle down the road. I also just keep getting that "mo powa" itch when I get on steep grades

 

[Gymboi]

The A340 and A343 are some of the most durable transmissions currently on the road irrespective of manufacturer. If your transmission isn't showing any signs of weakness and you're maintaining it appropriately then drop that worry.

If you're down on power, gears are way cheaper and they'll get your leverage back.

Save your money. Buy a bunch of old cruiser parts in a few years when this bubble has burst.

I don't know when the last time the transmission fluid was checked, I know these hardly have to have any maintenance done, but should I be checking up on it?

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Uh. Yes. It's a machine. It will inevitably fail otherwise.

Lots of info out there for what to look for how to service an auto. Do some searches.

 

[SNLC]

Over the course of the last 12 years or so, I've been lucky to experience the 80 drive line in just about every form; Stock, Turbo 1FZ, Cummins 4BT (profitts) and the current setup is an 6.2 LS. (well, except 1HDFTE )

For me, everything pales in comparison to the LS power plant. That said, if you plan on paying someone to do the work, it'll be the most expensive option out there.

You could always source a good used 1FZ and just swap it out. Take the savings and invest it or get a fun DD and keep the 80 for wheeling, etc. If i could go back to 21 and had done that, I'd be way better off than I am now. Hate to be the voice of reason here, but anything other than stock becomes a slippery slope.

1HDFTE can easily be more expensive than an LS to swap in.

I have penciled out both in detail recently for estimates. An Erod with all the top of the line goodies come close but the FTE is still a more expensive swap unless you just buy a used engine and slap it in.

Cheers